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I kicked them all to 35 psi (I didn't see your post until now) and it still wants to come around on me. At this point, with the miles it has on it, I'm inclined to just order lower and upper control arms. I have a picture of the cams on the rear suspension, I'll try to post them up. I sprayed everything down with pb blaster last night. It all seems to be easy to get at, so that's good.
Do you have a preferred brand or eBay seller you use? That's my biggest problem right now. I don't mind the work, I just don't want to do it a lot. And I also want the best price I can get.
Those are ordered, Thank you very much! do you have a lower control arm suggestion at all? And I'll post a picture of my rear cams if I can for someone to tell me if they have any adjustment left at all.
You are most liekly going to end up getting the arms through the dealership. If you contact say JPLV (Jaguar-Porsche dealership in Las Vegas), they will be able to hook you up and get you a decent price on the part.
you wouldn't do an ebay seller like the uppers? or go through SNG?
hey guys..ive replaced the lower control arms only to find the camber off like everyone else..i could try replacing the upper arms with stock parts but like everyone else im afraid they might not pull the camber in enough due to sagging springs/and or other worn parts.so i ordered the volvo parts..im going to install them tonight..fingers crossed....theres double adjustment and like thermo said ive removed the outer locknut ..this wont cause any problems coming loose will it?
dalippy, that will be fine as long as you tighten up the allen bolt. Worst case, you can add some large washers under the "nut" if you are worried about the "nut" screwing in on you. Or you can simply use a paint marker and put a match mark on the nut and the arm to see if it is walking in. If so, then you can tighten down on the locking allen a little more or add some washers under the nut to prevent it from going in any further.
dalippy, that will be fine as long as you tighten up the allen bolt. Worst case, you can add some large washers under the "nut" if you are worried about the "nut" screwing in on you. Or you can simply use a paint marker and put a match mark on the nut and the arm to see if it is walking in. If so, then you can tighten down on the locking allen a little more or add some washers under the nut to prevent it from going in any further.
im sure that end is fine ...im just thinking that the nut i removed closest to the outer busing..when on the unit prevents any movement between the threaded units when locked down.ie sideways torsion on the unit which translate to a tiny crablike torsion motion of the car..tiny but maybe getting bigger with wear and movement.or am i being over worried..i wellied the outer smaller thread into the bigger one..snug tight fit but leaves no adustment if i assemble like this.
or does the whole unit stiffen up when you tighten the allen bolt..i have not checked that yet..ie;does the allen bolt compress the outer thread onto the inner thread..basically so that the furthest outer bush wont be loose
dalippy: The adjustable control arm works like a turnbuckle - the length adjusts not by turning the ends, but by turning the adjuster in the middle. The adjuster has two threads: one right-handed to tighten when turned clockwise (the traditional "righty tighty, lefty loosey"), the other left-handed to do the opposite - loosen when turned clockwise. So to adjust the length, you turn the adjuster in the middle, causing both threads to either lengthen or shorten at the same time, without turning the eyelets.
The adjustable control arm is similar. The adjuster has an inner and outer thread, one right-handed, the other left-handed. After it's installed, the ends can't turn because they're bolted to the subframe and wheel knuckle. Only the middle adjuster can turn, one way to lengthen both threads, the other way to shorten both. Your suggestion to weld one of the threads would prevent the adjuster from turning, effectively downgrading it to a fixed length control arm.
I understand your concern that the adjuster might turn on it's own. To prevent this, simply tighten the Allen bolt to lock it in place, and as Thermo suggests, add a few drops of locking compound on the threads.
These adjustable control arms have extended tire life thousands of miles for me and the many X-Typer's fortunate enough to find this forum and Thermo's brilliant solution. So give it a try - you won't be disappointed.
dalippy: The adjustable control arm works like a turnbuckle - the length adjusts not by turning the ends, but by turning the adjuster in the middle. The adjuster has two threads: one right-handed to tighten when turned clockwise (the traditional "righty tighty, lefty loosey"), the other left-handed to do the opposite - loosen when turned clockwise. So to adjust the length, you turn the adjuster in the middle, causing both threads to either lengthen or shorten at the same time, without turning the eyelets.
The adjustable control arm is similar. The adjuster has an inner and outer thread, one right-handed, the other left-handed. After it's installed, the ends can't turn because they're bolted to the subframe and wheel knuckle. Only the middle adjuster can turn, one way to lengthen both threads, the other way to shorten both. Your suggestion to weld one of the threads would prevent the adjuster from turning, effectively downgrading it to a fixed length control arm.
I understand your concern that the adjuster might turn on it's own. To prevent this, simply tighten the Allen bolt to lock it in place, and as Thermo suggests, add a few drops of locking compound on the threads.
These adjustable control arms have extended tire life thousands of miles for me and the many X-Typer's fortunate enough to find this forum and Thermo's brilliant solution. So give it a try - you won't be disappointed.
i get it...it will be impossible for the outer bush to turn anyway because it will be locked into the frame of the car and i had a look at the left handed thread...im sure the allen key bolt setup will be sufficent to lock it all together..ive seen cars with a similar set up for the front track rod ends..havent got around to this job yet..
i think it will be saterday..if the weather holds..
thanks for the advice guys.
Dalippy - Did you find the adjustable arms over this side of the pond or did you order them from the states?
I have not managed to find any over here, just available to order from the states, with shipping costs about £70, which is more than the pair of arms.
did the job..sanded the ends of the bolts ..drownded them in penetrating fluid..they still didnt want to give up..they put up a fight every mm of the way..just like the front lower arms i did.
but sitting nice.ill get it all aligned soon.
sean_xtype . i ordered them from the states..cost 140 euro 100 -110pounds ish sterling.i hunted for hours on ebay the black ones seem to be cheaper than the fancy gold ones..
bite the bullet and order them sean..its going to be cheaper than tyres in the long run..i could see my tyres getting chewed up quick.
now on to my crank pulley job on saterday..have a new pulley, a belt and a new spring for the tensioner.ive fabricated a tool for the tensioner..ie;ive beat a piece of steel into the shape i need and put two bolts into the bottom.
thanks for your help lads
Thanks Dalippy, I will get them, I've seen the gold ones for £65 + £70 shipping. I have not found any better deal to date, I just wondered if it was just me being unlucky with searching or they're not available this side of the pond.
I'm currently doing the front drop links, headlight adjuster replacements, thermostat, boss seals, cam cover gaskets and sump gasket as well as doing some general tiding up (rubbing down and spraying) of the sub frame and underneath the engine, so they are on the to do list
Heim joints, or rod ends, are spherical bearings used in place of rubber or polyurethane bushings. They have 0 play or "give" so they make for a "tighter" feeling suspension and better, more predictable handling. They do however create more noise and ride harshness since they do not "give" at all like rubber, or polyurethane to a lesser extent. although having only 2 (1 on each arm) won't make a huge difference in ride quality. Heim joints don't really wear out though, and if they do, they are cheap to replace, as you can buy just the threaded rod ends from many places.
11-19-2014, 08:25 AM
