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Friction or grinding noise?

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Old 10-12-2013, 07:00 AM
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Default Friction or grinding noise?

I hope that this "grinding" sound I keep hearing in my '07 Sportwagon/Estate is a simple bearing asking for some grease and not the infamous dry transfer case I read about here. The whining sound (aside from me when I hear it) seems to be coming from just inside the firewall and becomes more pronounced when decelerating or engine braking, and especially during rainy days. All the gears shift smoothly and the pitch of the sound directly correlates to the speed and not engine RPMs. Gas mileage is excellent, operating temp is normal and no observed wheel alignment issues. One mechanic theorized this may be from loose motor mounts creating a misaligned linkage to the drive train since it is influenced by acceleration/deceleration changes.

My Jag service insists that nothing is wrong. On Monday Oct 14 I am taking her in for a diagnostic visual exam and road test to an independent shop for advice. 98K pampered miles and 2X the recommended full synth oil changes I am very disappointed that this is happening. I started hearing this and reporting it at around the 75K. Any ideas from the Forum? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:56 PM
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Pacobell, have you considered the main prop shaft bearing? It is just aft of the resonator, which is aft of the trans. This is a simple bearing that needs lube as the X ages. There is a thread here on greasing the center prop shaft bearing, but I can't find it at the moment. However, if you're sure your grinding noise is coming from the front side of the firewall, then this is not your problem. Your other descriptions of the noise and when it occurs indicate to me that this is a good culprit.

I've heard mine whine now and again, but I grease it up and the noise stops. If yours is grinding, I would replace it asap.

Her is a pic of the prop shaft bearing.
 
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  #3  
Old 10-17-2013, 11:44 PM
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Rusty brake rotors?

Mine sounds like a coffee grinder when I haven't driven it in a while, and the rotors get a "skin" of rust. Being so close to the salt water, "in" the salt air, it might be possible, and just might be worth a peek.

Easy enuff to do, just look at 'em!
 
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:27 PM
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Thank you for these suggestions. Actually, the prop shaft bearing seems like a logical culprit. I think I saw a recent pic of this on another thread too, but from a different angle as shown in the reply above. The test drive did not conclude anything; taking it back on Oct 23 for more evaluation that will involve placing sensors on different components to "listen" to try and isolate the source. Don't know why a good old fashioned flashlight and metal poker can't find it. Let$ $ee what happen$.
 
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:11 PM
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Bad news - sensors have isolated the source of the grinding as the (drum roll) TRANSFER CASE. Surprise! I guess I was just thinking wishfully. So now the moment of truth - do I like my car enough to sink another couple of thousand dollars into a remanufactured or used transfer case that will likely fail as this has, or do i gut the entire drivetrain and put in a new system for many thousands more? Or park it onto the nearest CSX railroad tracks and put it out of my misery. But I do appreciate your thoughtful feedback and am sorry it turned out the be the worst-case transfer case.
 
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:12 PM
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Has anyone here had success with extending the life of a transfer case in this condition? Any simple or moderate repairs that can be done? Or must the entire assembly be replaced?
Reason I ask...I may have the same problem you do. I thought I heard a wheel bearing too.
Was told by the dealer that if it is the transfer case, $2200+ in parts plus labor.
Tom
 
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Old 10-25-2013, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Pacobell
Bad news - sensors have isolated the source of the grinding as the (drum roll) TRANSFER CASE. Surprise! I guess I was just thinking wishfully. So now the moment of truth - do I like my car enough to sink another couple of thousand dollars into a remanufactured or used transfer case that will likely fail as this has, or do i gut the entire drivetrain and put in a new system for many thousands more? Or park it onto the nearest CSX railroad tracks and put it out of my misery. But I do appreciate your thoughtful feedback and am sorry it turned out the be the worst-case transfer case.
Paco, that really sucks. But, why do you suspect a rebuilt case? I imagine you'd get a warranty if you buy a $2k rebuilt transfer case. That said, it sucks harder if you have to take things apart again to return a faulty part under warranty. So, the warranty puts the oneness on you to return the part. They just give you another broken transfer case.

If you keep your JAG, check things that may have mis-aligned the TC. Such as worn *** motor mounts, a pooped out main prop shaft bearing that just smokes because it sags and has no grease, or, it could be a bent roll restictor that burns thru JAG transfer cases. Who knows? I understand the TC is considered a weak point, but if you start out with a working one, and fresh fluid, it should last.

It also depends on how long you've had the car and what you know about it. If the trans was abused by previous owners trying AWD burn outs, then the TC never had a chance. How many miles on it?

Hey, good luck with everything. Keep us posted! Could happen to any of us, and no doubt has.
 
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:49 PM
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Thanks & appreciate the insights. I have been the sole owner and do not drive it aggressively at all. I remember a few times when accelerating hard to merge into freeway traffic years ago, the engine revved way up and nothing happened with the wheels - thought I was gonna get mowed down by an 18-wheeler coming up behind quick. I let off the gas then pushed is again (less hard), and everything finally kicked in before I got caught in his undercarriage. Another time I was slowed for a car making a turn, and a bozo in and F-150 came roaring up behind me. I stepped on it and began pulling away, to no avail. Whammo! I wonder if that impact while engaging in acceleration may have messed something up in that t-case? Who knows. That was 60K miles ago. . . . Anyway, going to another shop and just going to have them flush, grease and reload the fluid. If still issues - this cat is going out for sale. Regardless, I appreciate everyone's comments and ideas. (Maybe it's time to pick up my buddy's 1987 Callaway that is for sale with less than 20K miles. . .)
 
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:50 PM
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Paco, it sounds like your X is far too new, and driven easy, to have big time transfer case problems. Maybe the Estate wagons are heavier and so need a tougher TC, so they fail sooner. That collision from 60K miles ago shouldn't matter now if you've had no issues in the interim.

I see you are eyeing your buddy's Corvette. and I have to ask, what life-changes have you had to go from a Jag wagon, to a Corvette? Your X sounds like it is going to turn into a big project. I'd go with the Callaway.

That being said, for a 26 year old Vette, 20K miles is suspiciously low.
 
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Last edited by Patterson; 10-30-2013 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:56 PM
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Try some "Better Living through Chemistry" as a last resort:

Get your mechanic to use a bulb to pull 16 ounces of tranny fluid out of the box (or crack a hose to the cooler at the front of the car), and replace it with a 16 ounce can of JB (Justice Brothers) Brand "THIS Will Fix Your Transmission!"

Cost is about $15 USD, and the work maybe $25, but it JUST COULD DO THE TRICK!

THEN... check that your medical insurance is adequate, and that your comprehensive is paid up on the X-Type, and then take it out and drive it like you just stole it. I mean drive the p*ss out of it. 140 mph plus. Hand-shift it only when it is well into the red zone. Down-shift it much too early when slowing down. Romp on it, over and over.

If it gets better - problem fixed! If it starts to "crater" instead, swerve to miss that elusive Jackalope in the roadway and total the sucker out.

You deserve some satisfaction from this car!



Honest, now - that doesn't look like it hurt a bit, does it?
 
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:56 PM
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Hi... the biggest life change is loss of patience with Jaguar and the fact my 2000 Camry lasted twice as long with half as many issues. As for the Callaway, my friend bought this (deep red) in 1998 with 3K miles; pampered in heated garage and driven enough to keep seals and parts lubed. Very rare magnesium mag wheels came stock - only a handful had this option. 6-speed manual, twin turbos and no bolt-on garbage. Pure off-the-line Chevy-sanctioned Callaway. Anything that old will be high maintenance, I know. My last resort is to ship my JagWag to CA to a custom shop to blueprint and retrofit a new drivetrain front-to-back. Maybe even plunk in another engine. There won't be much Jag left in it, but if it works it will be worth it. Car is still barely driveable but the transfer case is about done. will keep this saga going!
 
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:06 PM
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Thanks Bruce! You know the thought did cross my mind to take it out and beat the crap out of it. Sometimes a little woodshed therapy gets the misbehavers back in line! Seriously, because these suckers are rare in the N. American market, I'm seriously considering a re-build of the drivetrain with non-Jag components. I would drop $20K toward that and have a "new" car than replace a bad transfer case with bad transfer case. Kind of reminds me of my 2003 Marauder with the infamous problematic LCM - everyone wanted $730 for a new one but a guy in N. Carolina fixed it for $50. I like your suggestion, though. If anything, to do your thing at night to give the spectators a light show when the t-case blows up and shoots sparks every which way!
 
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce in North Dakota


Honest, now - that doesn't look like it hurt a bit, does it?
I've never seen a Jag that trashed, but at least the Leaper survived! Hopefully this was a solo mission, no passenger; good luck to the driver.

Paco, yes, the Jag Wag is rare, I've never seen one, but are you really into sending it to CA. to have it rebuilt for 20K? If you indeed like the X and its AWD, size, power, and looks, then spend 8K on a used one that is in good condition and go from there.

I bought my JAG with 80K miles on it and no maintenance records. I paid 9K. Then, I did all the gear box fluid changes and a bunch of maintenance moves that I learned here on the JAG forums, and, Voila! My X is now a smoothy with 116K miles on the clock. Maybe I just got lucky, you will too!

Follow your instincts bro.
 

Last edited by Patterson; 10-31-2013 at 02:33 AM.
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