How is rear differential fluid changed? RESOLVED
#1
#2
I just changed the differential fluid in my 04 last week and I figured out a cheap and effective way to drain and service the rear end. When I saw the narrow gap between the suspension frame and the differential I started out by swearing...
I used:
-1/8" soft flexible copper water line about 4"-5" long, found in rolls at any home hardware store. Don't get the rigid tubing!
-A large turkey baster - this could also be a big syringe.
-6" or so of clear plastic tubing that will slide over the copper tube snug.
For removal of the plug, I took an old crappy 3/8" ratchet and ground the square part off until there was only about 1/4" left sticking out of the ratchet face. This helps with the horizontal space you have to work with.
Take the copper tube and bend one end 45 degrees or so. When you have done this correct, the longer straight part of the tube will be facing forward and down in the differential case. This is your vacuum end for removing as much of the old fluid and gunk as possible. Force one end of the plastic tubing onto the bent end of the copper and then manuever the copper into the drain/fill hole in the back of the differential. Slide the open plastic tube end onto the turkey baster tip (turkey baster is pushed all the way in at this point). Slowly pull back the plunger on the baster and you will see the tube and then the baster fill with fluid. Pull the baster from the tube and squirt the contents into a container (please don't dump it on the ground!). Do this until nothing comes out - you might reposition the coppertube around a bit to get the bottom of the case cleanest.
To refill, pull the copper and plastic tube from the case and using another peice of the same plastic tube material - maybe a foot of so long, slide one end into the case. Fill the turkey baster from the new oil container and then slide the end into the open plastic tube end. "Inject" the differential several times until fluid begins flowing out of the fill hole.
Remove the tube, replace the fill plug/magnet.
I used:
-1/8" soft flexible copper water line about 4"-5" long, found in rolls at any home hardware store. Don't get the rigid tubing!
-A large turkey baster - this could also be a big syringe.
-6" or so of clear plastic tubing that will slide over the copper tube snug.
For removal of the plug, I took an old crappy 3/8" ratchet and ground the square part off until there was only about 1/4" left sticking out of the ratchet face. This helps with the horizontal space you have to work with.
Take the copper tube and bend one end 45 degrees or so. When you have done this correct, the longer straight part of the tube will be facing forward and down in the differential case. This is your vacuum end for removing as much of the old fluid and gunk as possible. Force one end of the plastic tubing onto the bent end of the copper and then manuever the copper into the drain/fill hole in the back of the differential. Slide the open plastic tube end onto the turkey baster tip (turkey baster is pushed all the way in at this point). Slowly pull back the plunger on the baster and you will see the tube and then the baster fill with fluid. Pull the baster from the tube and squirt the contents into a container (please don't dump it on the ground!). Do this until nothing comes out - you might reposition the coppertube around a bit to get the bottom of the case cleanest.
To refill, pull the copper and plastic tube from the case and using another peice of the same plastic tube material - maybe a foot of so long, slide one end into the case. Fill the turkey baster from the new oil container and then slide the end into the open plastic tube end. "Inject" the differential several times until fluid begins flowing out of the fill hole.
Remove the tube, replace the fill plug/magnet.
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newtojags (07-31-2014)
#3
#5
Is your mechanic familiar with Jags? Mine is and he did exactly what you say. Used a suction pump to vacate the old fluid and pumped in the new. Get someone familiar with our cars to service it if you can.
#6
I know this is an old thread and hopefully someone sees this...
Can someone post a picture or diagram as to where to find the diff drain/fill plug? Also should it be filled to top of the drain/fill plug hole or just a specific amount of fluid? Last is what fluid is recommended.
Thanks,
Joe
Can someone post a picture or diagram as to where to find the diff drain/fill plug? Also should it be filled to top of the drain/fill plug hole or just a specific amount of fluid? Last is what fluid is recommended.
Thanks,
Joe
#7
Per Steve Hannes Jaguar Project, the capacity of the rear diff. is 1.27 quarts. I use Mobile1 synthetic 75W/140. This is the same gear oil used in the transfer case on manual 5 speed X-Types. Of which there are few... I imagine it's the same for the rear differential in automatics.
The drain plug faces fwd on the pumpkin (case), and rather high. This is good for refill because, with the car raised in the front on jack stands, you can fill it to capacity with no over spill.
The drain plug faces fwd on the pumpkin (case), and rather high. This is good for refill because, with the car raised in the front on jack stands, you can fill it to capacity with no over spill.
Last edited by Patterson; 02-18-2014 at 11:57 PM.
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joec (02-20-2014)
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#9
Just did my fluid change in transfer case and rear differential. No brainer to use a transfer pump for the rear. But my old pump failed... so I started the turkey baster thing... sooooo tedious. So I commandeered a gas siphon from one of my emergency kits... not too bad. The soft copper tubing suggestion is solid... easier to direct the tube to where the fluid is - I only had rubber tubing sooooo- a little more involved. Problem with clearance? get a socket adapter set (autozone?) and some socket caps (harbor freight tools) this will let you have the option of using your socket with a regular box wrench (I suggest the ratcheting kind - which I also don't yet have!) The front is a little easier to get to - Note that unlike the rear differential will not spill anything out if you have just the rear jacked up. The transfer case will! Did the rocking cradle method. Everything that came out seemed pretty clean - but looks like (smelled like) transmission fluid was used - don't think that's ok on these cars (somebody chime in on that please!) - *the rear diff fluid was black in color and smelled horrid and fairly thick. Just realized I didn't make the car level when filling the rear diff... is it over filled? I'll check when I do the oil change I guess.
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