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  #1  
Old 11-09-2009, 12:08 PM
daleinok
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Default Installation of water pump 02 Jaguar X type

I am very new to this site, and am having trouble finding how or where I need to go for looking up issues on specific repairs.

From looking at the under side of the engine I can see the anti freeze dripping onto the ground from behind the belts on the driver side of the engine, also when engine is off the fan will continue to run.

Question; Is this the water pump, and if so what or how do I replace it?

Is another site on this forum where I should be searching? please let me know.

Thaks
daleinok
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  #2  
Old 11-09-2009, 05:23 PM
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dale, replacing the water pump is a pretty straight forward job. yes, the water pump is on the driver's side of the engine and it sounds like where your leak is coming from. In short, what you need to do is this:

1) remove the battery and battery tray to access the water pump
2) You will now see a belt with 3 pulleys on it, 1 pulley has a cap, one has a single bolt on it, the last pulley has 3 bolts on it. Loosen the pulley with the single bolt and put some slack in the belt. Remove the belt.
3) Now, remove the 3 bolts on the pulley. This will give you access to remove the water pump.
4) Remove the 8 bolts to the piece with the capped pulley on it. This is the water pump itself.

Now, this all assumes that you have the coolant drained in the first place. This is done by opening the drain valve on the radiator itself. Installation is simply going in reverse. Dont' forget that you need to "burp" the coolant system in this car a special way. It isn't like other cars where you simply fill the system and then run it for a bit. This car involves pinching a hose shut to force the fluid through the engine, forcing the air out of the block. Sounds more difficult than it really is. If you are not familiar with this, let me know and I will give you directions on how to burp the car.
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  #3  
Old 11-10-2009, 05:30 PM
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Thermo, Straight forward, straight talk, to the point, very clear, and it worked like a charm.

Thanks a lot
daleinok
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2009, 12:46 AM
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daleinok, you don't mess around do you? Get the help and get 'er done. Nice work.
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  #5  
Old 12-14-2010, 08:40 PM
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Hi Thermo!
Could you please explain what you mean by ``burping``the system?
Best way to contact me is through my email:lembetlepikult@hotmail.com

I would sincerely apprecciate any help.
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  #6  
Old 06-05-2011, 02:41 PM
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Default ``burping``the system?

what you mean by ``burping``the system? For water pump replacement on a 2003 Jaguar x-type.

Please help,
Ralph
rmyree08@yahoo.com
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  #7  
Old 06-05-2011, 02:48 PM
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time for an experiment lol good luck
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Old 06-15-2011, 04:23 PM
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Hi Thermo,
Could you please send me the info on draining and burping please? Also have 03 X-Type with the same leaking issue.

Appreciate the help,
Alex
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2011, 05:09 PM
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when I've done any water pump you need to add some coolant, start the engine and add more until it appears full, do not close the cap on the rad / reservour until all the air is gone. So it will bubble like crazy at first and the level will drop, add more 50/50 mix, when there are no more bubbles and the motor is now at normal temp, it's burped.
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  #10  
Old 06-15-2011, 07:48 PM
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salexgolden, the "burping" is a jaguar term that they use for talking about getting the air out of the coolant system. Honestly, treat this car like any other car and you will be just fine. The system has its own self venting setup and it will pull all the air out of the system in no time flat. Just need to fill the system, run the motor to get it up to temp, top off the bottle to the "hot fill" line and then take it out for a good spin. Then let the motor cool. The big thing is you want to get the engine up to temp before putting the cap on the overflow bottle. If you put the cap on with the bottle/engine cold and lots of air in the motor, you can stress the bottle, leading to it cracking a fitting. Then you are buying a $100 overflow bottle.

But, if you want to "burp" your kitty, all you do is you remove the cover from off of the engine. If you look between the engine and the air intake, you will see 2 black hoses (both about 1" in diameter, one should be ribbed, one should be smooth). You want the smooth hose as the other hose you will see runs from the airbox to the intake. Now, start the motor and let it come up to temp. As the motor is coming up to temp, you want to use something like an oversized cloth's line clip or something of the sort. You want to pinch the smooth hose closed. This will force all the coolant to flow through the block. The higher flow helps force the air out of the coolant system. You will want to pinch the hose, hold for 5-10 seconds, release the hose for a minute, pinch for 5-10 seconds, release, etc until you don't see any air bubbles coming out of the coolant (look at the back of the coolant bottle, there is a small line that comes in there and you can see a small amount of coolant flowing there. You will be able to see the air bubbles coming out there). Once you don't see bubble, top off the tank, cap the overflow bottle, and let the engine cool.
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  #11  
Old 04-21-2012, 10:00 AM
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Default Where is the radiator drain?

I'm just not that talented but am determined to continue replacing the water pump. I have the battery out on my 2004 2.5 X-Type and there is a hose on the bottom of the battery pan that didn't connect to anything, where is that supposed to go?

Second, I can't find the radiator drain valve, any help there?
(Found it. Passenger side of rad at hose end with a slotted plus sign for bladed driver removal. It was not necessary for me to remove the plastic guard under the rad as there was an access hole shaped like a rectangle.... Oh well...)

Third, is there a preferred gasket sealant to use when I put the water pump on?
(I ended up using a Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat Housing RTV Silicone gasket compound I purchased before Thermo replied.
I did use it as he described and coated both sides of the paper gasket instead of using it without the gasket at all.)

Thanks.....

Post water pump replacement summary: The original water pump had a plastic impeller, Advance Auto had the plastic one for 200.00 or so dollars special order. I purchased the cast iron impeller model GMB #125-1910 for a more modest 53.99 which was in stock. I was concerned when I noticed the OEM part I removed had impellers I guesstimate at 25% greater height (therefore efficiency?) and a thin METAL gasket. The bearings and seal appeared perfectly fine and I couldn't explain the leak, so I worried my diagnosis was wrong. Was it that steel BB sized bearing on the edge? I don't know -but the leak is fixed by the new pump. One more note, on my model the belt was EASY EASY EASY to remove because the pulley with a single bolt was under spring tension that shifted when I put the wrench on it and gave the necessary slack.
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Last edited by KevinKJT; 04-22-2012 at 10:53 AM. Reason: Post op summary :-)
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  #12  
Old 04-21-2012, 01:53 PM
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That little hose is for the battery gas vent. There should be a little nipple at the top of the battery that the hose hooks up to.
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  #13  
Old 04-21-2012, 03:05 PM
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kevin, this is what I will tell you when it comes to the water pump gasket: the use of a sealant is not required, but because the gasket is paper, why chance it. I use Form-a-gasket when I do anything with a water pump. I apply the Form-a-Gasket to the paper gasket, let it stick itself to the water pump, that way I can manipulate both as a unit and it makes putting it all together that much easier. I have never had a problem with a water pump leaking after doing this. Granted, can't say that I have ever done it using the paper gasket only.
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:54 AM
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Default Leak plastic pipe in front of waterpump

There is a plastic pipe connected by rubber hoses, the plastic part has a crack on the top seam, which is leaking. What is this? it's located in front of the water pump.
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:43 AM
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James, just to make sure we are talking about the same piece, you have 3 hoses coming off of it (1 to the overflow bottle, 1 to the top of the engine, the last running down behind the engine - actually going to the heater core). If so, your best bet will be going to the local hardware store and getting a 5/8" (possibly 3/4") barbed tee to put in there. They sell them in plastic and brass. Then you can get your hands on three 1" hose clamps to make sure nothing leaks again. The big trick will be that you will need to get your hands on a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to get off the factory bands that were installed.

If you have more questions, let me know.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:23 AM
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If the hoses are going soft, you may want to go ahead and replace them. It can be had for a reasonable $13 (plus shipping) which includes the T fitting. I just ordered the hose myself because it was bulging. URO Part #C2S23485. Found it at Rockauto.
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  #17  
Old 06-12-2014, 02:19 AM
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Default Is this the same plastic tee?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermo View Post
James, just to make sure we are talking about the same piece, you have 3 hoses coming off of it (1 to the overflow bottle, 1 to the top of the engine, the last running down behind the engine - actually going to the heater core). If so, your best bet will be going to the local hardware store and getting a 5/8" (possibly 3/4") barbed tee to put in there. They sell them in plastic and brass. Then you can get your hands on three 1" hose clamps to make sure nothing leaks again. The big trick will be that you will need to get your hands on a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to get off the factory bands that were installed.

If you have more questions, let me know.
Thank You; I looked at the plastic tee fitting that is cracked and leaking has a rubber hose that is connected to the top driver side of the radiator goes to the plastic tee {leaking} and runs between the engine and the radiator to the top of the engine which splits off and goes to the coolant filler jug.
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:26 AM
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I would say to do some looking and see if you can get the hose for cheap like DKurtti says you can. That would be best. Otherwise, the brass tee is going to be option 2. I tried finding the individual hoses and trying to find stuff that would work was a royal PITA. The hardest one is the little S piece to go between the tee and the overflow bottle. I may do some looking and see what I can find.
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Old 06-12-2014, 10:46 PM
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???? That sounds more like the top radiator hose and thermostat housing. Sits underneath the airfilter box? I guess this is one of those instances where a picture is worth a thousand words. That cant be repaired nor would I try. Cheapest I've seen that is around $100. Comes as a set, t-fitting/thermostat housing and left/right hoses. I've never seen the plastic fitting sold by itself. Check ebay.
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Old 09-21-2014, 11:31 AM
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Thanks Thermo, I am not a mechanic but I was able to replace my water pump yesterday with the directions you posted.
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Old 09-21-2014, 11:31 AM
 
 
 
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2004, 30, coolant, drain, engine, instalation, jag, jaguar, pump, removal, system, water, waterpump, xj8, xtype



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