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You be the man, man. The fact that you started an entire Blog on some of the fine points of Jag Repair is very commendable!
I know that many of us here will look forward to continuing additions to your Blog - heck, I've Bookmarked it / you already.
Nice straightforward stuff.
Please know I look forward to you posting some videos for us D.I.Y. 'ers. I am sure the moderators here will agree that links to your blog, and maybe even some videos , will be a welcome addition to this (best of all of the availible) Jag forum. Even though most people here post when they have a problem, a few "How To" posts will be well received from everyone.
(You might even get your own "Sticky's" on the top of a page or two!)
Please don't be shy. Post like crazy.
Kindly know I was very interested in your "Reset the Windows" part of your blog. I have been loathe to post my question about a similar problem - having searched fruitlessly through the forum - maybe you can help.
Even starting a new thread in response would be nice - it would make it more "searchable" for others that have the same problemo.
My problem is the Sunroof. Just ever so much of a hint of wind noise. It just needs to seal up - "press up", if you will - against the seal just a gnat's a** more. I have held little strip of paper all around the window seal looking for the leak, to no avail. I cannot bring myself to light a smoke in the car to see if that might help me find it, and trying to drive while running my ear around the seal is out of the question.
Will your window reset work for this, or possibly make it worse? Is there a screw or something to make it seal ever-so-little tighter?
Your enthusiasm and attention to instructive detail are not going unnoticed on this forum. check the "Viewer Count" out some Friday Eve or Saturday morning, you'll see hundreds of people poking around here.
Im having A problem with my car. The video I will post is the same noise that my 2002 X-Type makes when i start it. I just changed the front 3 Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs. any Ideas on what the Noise is. Thank You
Link of the Video:
Mihvv07
That sound in NOT clicking it's a low end knock,(rod bearing or wrist pin). Be very careful with the RPM you put on the engine or you will have a hole in the block or pan.This is my opinion from the sound on the video, I have heard this way to many times before and it never ends well.My opinion: **** it off, drain the oil, refill with 10w40, no need to change the filter. Start it up BUT DON'T rev it up, just idle no more and see if the noise is less or same . In my opinion in either case it sounds like a engine rebuild but it might save you a tow bill if you can limp it to a reputable garage. With that loud of a knock if you hit 3000 rpm you will be sitting on the road side. Your knock sensor should be screaming at you but they only adjust the timing for bad fuel, carboned combustion cambers, ect) which is called a PING not a knock and is caused by uneven burning of fuel in the cylinders which leads to the pistons SLAPPING the bore walls and adjusting the timing helps stop this.It's not that simple but you get the idea.
I quit! Jags are fine brand new...once they get a few years on them...Drive them into the ocean and by a Lexus... parting this POS out... I hate getting conned into buying a used Jag...
"Once they get a FEW years on them"? Sorry you are having issues, but you have a 2002 that is 15 YEARS OLD and who knows what kind of care was taken of it all these years. I can understand your frustration if you bought a used car recently and are having a number of issues with it, but to say the cars are POS because yours has problems seems pretty harsh. I bought mine used and drove it over 120,000 miles and it had about 165,000 miles on it when I sold it. It was one of the most reliable cars I ever owned and I think there are a number of other members on here that would say the same thing. I was very conscientious about its upkeep though. Pretty much any 15 year old car that hasn't been kept up-no matter what the brand- will have issues. And pretty much ANY 15 year old car will start to nickel and dime you as things just wear out over time.
Bought from Jaguar of Louisville, Ky. From the service writer. Only 85k miles, with all service records... it's just a lemon and I can't recommend anyone buy a Jag based on my experience..
This is how I find air/water leaks in a car. Your shop Vac should have a blow side to it. Put one end of the hose in there and the other end in a window you have lowered a bit. Now with some tape and cardboard seal up the rest of the window. You will also need a spray bottle with water and some car wash soap in it. Turn the Vac on and spray around the car till you see bubbles. You just found it!
Simple
PS I have a knock sensor to do in May
PPSS I LOVE my old X-Types have three!
Last edited by Larry-Cleveland; 03-02-2017 at 12:40 PM.
Bought from Jaguar of Louisville, Ky. From the service writer. Only 85k miles, with all service records... it's just a lemon and I can't recommend anyone buy a Jag based on my experience..
Sorry you are having all those issues. Almost sounds like something happened to it, like an accident. If the car was a lemon since day one I would have thought after 15 years with regular dealer service pretty much everything would have been sorted out by now. Generally with regular dealer service and low miles you have a very good chance of having a reliable car.
I bought a near vintage Jaguar on Craigslist from one of the local Jaguar dealer's service advisors. I was assured it was a fine car, well maintained and regularly serviced... Well, if that is so then I find that even the best maintained Jaguar can and usually will develop into a multi- hundred dollar rolling money hole like this one. Beautiful car, but after my experience... don't buy a used Jaguar, you will probably be very sorry after your purchase. I am very disappointed in the car, the service by the local dealer, and will never look at a Jaguar the way I once did.
I am still learning about the knock sensor on my 2002 X-Type 2.5, I spoke to a guy at Oreillys because I was getting confused and he said the book lists two of them , I want to know is there two of them and can a bad one cause the car to go to limp mode.
First scroll back up to post number 2. Go to Daxter's blog and you can see what you are looking for. There is a picture of what you need. The book list 2 types but the engine has one only. You need the thread in one. The other is for engines starting in 2003 that are side mounted sensors.
I bought a near vintage Jaguar on Craigslist from one of the local Jaguar dealer's service advisors. I was assured it was a fine car, well maintained and regularly serviced... Well, if that is so then I find that even the best maintained Jaguar can and usually will develop into a multi- hundred dollar rolling money hole like this one. Beautiful car, but after my experience... don't buy a used Jaguar, you will probably be very sorry after your purchase. I am very disappointed in the car, the service by the local dealer, and will never look at a Jaguar the way I once did.
I don't want to add insult to injury or salt in the wound but did you really say you bought the Jag on the recommendation of the person that sold you the car? I am sorry but that doesn't sound quite right. I don't know of anyone that buys a car based on the words of a salesman which is what a service adviser is he sells work and can sugar coat just about anything, just admit it you was lied to and cannot face that fact so you bad mouth and besmirch a very good quality car, any car of 15 years is going to need repairs done alot of it due to the ridiculous high prices charged by Jaguar dealerships for a simple service job. I doubt if there is any Jag owner that doesnt try to get away from dealership prices I know I do I do all work myself I also own a 1979 Mercedes 450 SL and a 1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500 I do all work myself I do ask for advice as to how to do some jobs such is the case with my Jaguar repairs and I expect every car I own to drive as good as possible.
I've been having miss fires and some other trouble so I'm in the middle of spark plug and coil pack change. I decided to r&r the lower manifold gaskets while I have the upper manifold removed. I also wanted to r&r the knock sensor since I have things apart, but I'm finding that I have to remove the steel coolant line that runs under the fuel rail. I tried everything to get to the one bolt holding the knock sensor in place, actually I can get a wrench around it, but it won't budge. I even hammered/tapped a very tight fitting open end wrench (3/8th inch) onto the bolt head. Still could not get the bolt to turn, wrench slipped off. As tight as it is, I can see that for a box end wrench to work I would need to apply force along the axis of the wrench and the turning force at the same time in order to keep the wrench on the bolt head.
Ideally, it needs a socket to contact all six flats of the bolt head in order to turn! What a pain as I really don't want to disturb the steel coolant line. I don't have a knock sensor code, but my X has 150K miles and I was hoping to do this as preventative. I figure I'm going to just carry on with the tune up and put her back together. Would have been nice if the engineers had made clearance to remove the knock sensor easier. That said, I haven't seen the side mount KS that is on 2003 models. Curious how easy that is to r&r.
Thinking crazy thoughts, like What's the wall thickness of that elbow and can I dremmel out enough clearance to get a low profile socket around that bolt head?
"New Knock sensor input: A little over a year ago I followed the illustrated guide to replacing the knock sensor on an X Type and wrote that I elected not to do it. I was partially wrong. I removed the intake manifold; the attendant hoses and clips then dug into the innards of the valley between the cylinder banks. After removing the fuel rail and injectors I unplugged the knock sensor at the harness and gave it a good think. "*******s" thought I, "They've managed to hide every bolt behind another piece to be dismantled except one: about four inches to the right of the sensor there is a little bolt screwed into the block. I managed to get a 10mm socket on it and took it out. It was too short to go through my new sensor, so I found a standard 125 pitch 6mm bolt, cut it so it protruded about 5-6 mm beyond the sensor, rounded the hex at the top, cut a slot in it and "VIOLA!" (or Cello) I secured my new knock sensor to the block slightly under the coolant pipe. This is FAR FAR FAR easier than draining the cooling system and ripping up the debris etc... I connected the new sensor, cut the wire on the old one and left it in place, put everything back together and it's fixed. If it fails again I can swap it out in no time. I'd post a picture but I don't know how. Anyway, if you tear into your motor to replace the knock sensor, you'll see the bolt I'm talking about.
02-25-2012, 05:29 PM
Best of luck to all Jag owners....
