O2 sensors are not usually common on the xtype. I have had alot of customers who have been told by autozone that they need o2 sensors because they have lean codes. I would say every time they have been wrong.

the next thing I would do is either get a scanner that can do live fuel trim readings. Then spray down the intake with throttle cleaned and see if the trims go rich. Or take it to a shop and have them smoke test the intake. I have seen lower intake gaskets go bad usually anytime over 60k. if no leaks are found you may need injectors which were also known for clogging. Sometimes they can be cleaned with a professional pressurized fuel injection cleaners (bg or wynns).

It is possible that it is just your fuel. The ECM is calibrated to run on premium. We tell customers they can run on midgrade without any problems. Not sure how they run on regular.

And to they other person asking about the po420 and po430 codes. You need a new catylitic converter. On the jags those code are very accurate at telling you when the cats are done for.

 

austinmartus- thanks for your input and feedback on the accuracy of the CAT codes. It was suggested to me on a separate thread that I try the 02 sensors to clear the 0420 code as my 03 has 195k miles and I am not sure it's worth getting a new CAT installed. It didn't not clear the codes or help with performance. Any suggestions on a decent 3rd party option for a new CAT?

 

we have been using after market cats at our dealer since nobody would ever pay the absurd price jag wants for a cat. I'm not sure what brand it is though.

 

Totally new to this forum but dealing with girlfriends car, 2002 x type with 3.0 5 speed, 85000 mi. Rough idling, won't accelerate past 3000 rpm in any gear. Had codes read today and they are the following: P0303,P0332,P0420,P0057,P1000,P1313 ,P1316. My BMW is hard enough. Saw a thread with exact same problem described and was fixed with new PVC hose but I can't find a leak in hers. Would love someone's help. Thanks

 

I recently bought a second hand 2003 X-Type Jaguar 2.1l. At first the rev counter could not above 3000 rpm. When idling, it produces a strange sound from the intake manifold. Now it has developed a new problem. The rev counter can go above 3000 rpm but it has very rough idling, stalls or delays to pick up when starting from rest.
I just bought a new air flow sensor but there is no change at all. Can someone please help?

 

Hello, everyone! My 2003 x-type starting doing the same thing....misfire, limp-mode and low power....it appears that I have a faulty fuel injector #2 and will have that replaced this weekend if the weather. Looking forward to the work and I'll be sure to follow-up on the progress..

 

My 2.5 is having the same 3000 rpm issue, but it's intermittent. Almost like it has a rev limiter installed sometimes. Also when it's cold and I'm starting it first thing in the morning, it does not want to stay running, and the check engine light flashes. Once I get it to stay running and get going down the road, the check engine light stays solid again. As for the 3000 rpm issues, it doesn't happen at any regular time. car can be hot or cold. I was reading earlier posts, and was wondering about the IMT o rings. It says left side of engine on rear, but is this the drivers side or passenger side(US car)? I have replaced the pcv hose which fell apart in my hands, and am on the trail of those seals(o rings) and the brake booster valve. Oh, the check engine light, says I need to replace right bank cat converter. That's the only code I'm showing. But to be honest, it doesn't exactly say it's bad, it says performing below threshold. Thanks, and I love this forum.
1st Post

 

hello i have exactly the same problem as the person who posted thsi subject... I need to know what soloution he finaly found ...pls help

 

i have the same issue and the same soloution as yurs ... but is that the final soloution..?

 

Sorry that I have not posted an update to my post. I am happy to report that I have solved this issue on my X Type. I am unhappy to report that after several hundred dollars I still have a check engine light concerning the catalytic converter I just had replaced.


On to my post. I removed the intake and replaced the plugs and the coils. Coils probably did not need replaced, but since I was there why not. Might save me from removing the intake again later on. Next I replaced both the upper and lower intake gaskets. I know they have technical names, but I'm not so technical. The last thing I did was replace the fitting for the vacuum line running to the brake booster. Once I put everything back together the car ran excellent. It now has 145k miles on it and still runs great.


I found the intake gaskets online way cheaper than the Jag dealer sold them for. However, in talking to the Jag shop that replaced my cat, the mechanic was telling me that the Jag gaskets are thicker than the ones you get online. So far I have noticed no issues and it's been 8-10k miles. Also, don't cheap out on the coils. One of new coils I bought has already failed. The Jag mechanic recommended Denso brand coils.


This was not a difficult project until you get to the point of having to move the injector rails. Then you just have to be really careful and pay attention to the way things come apart so you can snap everything back and bolt it down properly. Search the forums here for "how to" and follow the directions which is what I did. I really took my time doing this, I mean really took my time stopping several times to attend to other things going on at my house. It took me just under 5 hrs with a ton of interruptions. Basic hand tools are all that's needed. I had air tools available but never even plugged in the compressor. I wanted to replace the gaskets for the 2 sensors on the passenger side of the intake. But someone before me has cemented those in to the point I almost broke them trying to get them out, so I just left them alone. Almost looks like the jb welded them in. I hope this helps someone out there that's having the same problems I had.


***Please note which holes your bolts come out of. They are different lengths and need to go back exactly where they came out of.***
Again please search the forum for the how to.

 

Did you put regular gas in your car? I bought my 2002 2.5 and filled it up with 87 regular fuel. It went right into lump mode. A bottle of octane booster took care of the problem.
Just trying to throw a possible easy fix your way. These cars like premium gas.
Good luck. Don't be despondent. I've had my X for three years now and love it.

 

3 days after I bought this car the check engine light came on for the right side cat. I used regular unleaded in it for about 8 months until I got the new cat put on. Since then I have only used premium. I'm beginning to think it's not happy unless the check engine light is on The only time it has ran "bad" is when it was cold before I replaced the intake gaskets, plugs, brake booster fitting and the pcv hose. I do not believe the previous owners kept up the maintenance. It was a 12yr old vehicle with only 126k miles when I bought it. Pretty low miles for a 12yr old car. It has never left me stranded.

 

 

 

I had a 2002 X type with the 2.5. I had the exact problem that when you hit 3000 rpm it would stumble. I went through the steps already mentioned and they didn't help. What finally fixed it for me was replacing both the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets(there are 2 different sets that need replaced). I say gasket because they look like these cheesy oval o rings. you have to take the top of the motor off to get to them pretty much. now i don't mean you have to take the heads off or anything, just the upper intake plenum and the lower intake. I think i had to remove the fuel rail to get it out of the way. It's been a couple of years since I did that job, but i think I went online to find the gaskets. Way cheaper than going to parts store. I also replaced all the coils and plugs since i was in there. If you do that, do not cheap out on the coils. I didn't buy the cheapest, but within I think it was 3 months one of the rear cylinders died. Lucky I kept the old coils and just replaced it. Once I replaced those gaskets, no more stumble and it purred. i miss my jag, but thanks to a drunk it got totaled. Hope this helps.

 

What is the magic of 3,000 RPM for this car/ engine that triggers symptoms like a rev-limiter for this/ these problems?

 

What Causes Limp Mode?

Today, nearly every system in your vehicle is operated by the computer – including the transmission’s line pressure, shift timing, sequence and feel. The vehicle speed sensor provides input to help control ABS, fuel mixture, fuel injection and transmission operation. The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor and throttle position sensor (TPS) provide the engine’s load information which is used to manage the shift and downshifting in the transmission when you’re driving up an incline or you’ve put the pedal to the metal.

“Fail Code” conditions or “Limp Mode” occurs when there is a problem with the logic of a vehicle’s computer. When the signal value sent by a sensor to the computer is not within a pre-programmed range specified by the manufacturer, it will switch to “secondary” programming. These procedures are designed to protect the transmission from further damage that could be caused by the signal error.

As long as the computer is receiving signals from the MAP, TPS, vehicle speed and other sensors that fall within their “normal” ranges based on the current conditions, the transmission will operate normally. However, as mentioned above, if it receives a signal that is outside of the expected range, it will switch to secondary/emergency operation

 

A fair list can be seen by looking in the codes PDFs.