Hi All,
I am new to the forum but have been watching and learning quite a bit from you guys and now need some help to diagnose a dangerous issue.
All and any help is appreciated.
Model is a 2003 X Type 3.0 with sports package.

In 2006 with only 26K miles the car stalled and would not restart.
Towed to dealer and they found error code P0131. Diagnosed no fuel pressure and said that the fuel pump needed to be replaced.
Advisor said that while they were in there for extended warranty fuel pump replacement, it would be wise to also replace fuel sender unit and fuel filter which I agreed to and it then was running great. Use my wife's Prius for long trips for gas mileage and work from home so I don't put a lot of mileage on Jag.

November 2013 (only 36K mileage) car would not start in parking lot. Had it towed in to same dealer. The next day they said it started right up and there were error codes. Possible fuel pump again. With no error code I was reluctant to spend 1500.00 for new fuel pump replacement.

January 2014 about 25 minutes into a 45 minute drive car stalled on highway and I coasted over to the side of the road. Removed key from ignition and put it back in and the car started right up. Drove another 5 - 10 minutes and the car stalled again and had to coast off to side with 4 ways on. Then it drove fine to the destination and my drive home in the dark trying to stay in the right lane... just in case so I don't get killed... it worked fine.

I called my dealer up and said that the fuel pump was replaced 4 years earlier but only 10K miles ago and wanted to know if they would work with me on the price of a new replacement since I didn't think that a 3rd fuel pump at 36K should be a normal thing. They declined. So I called Jaguar corporate and got a customer service specialist that agreed with me and called the dealer and had me bring it in to find out if in fact it was the fuel pump. Now out of extended warranty of course.

Once again no error codes and they wanted 149.00 to diagnose. Jag corporate kept checking in on them and they called me and recommended keeping the car for a few days and letting an employee drive it to re-create the condition.... for an additional 149.00. They put on about 150 miles over 4 days and could not get it to stall. Corporate was great and kept checking in with them until they said, they can't fix what's not broken and that I can come pick up my car and they will waive the 298.00 in diagnosing fees and I could use new rotors and pads. I strongly believe the fees were waived because corporate was involved.

So here I am scared to death to take it on the highway. Certainly won't let my wife drive it. It has worked flawlessly since and I did drive it on the highway (in the right lane as much as possible) one time.

I read on the forum that HO2 sensor can also cause the car to stall but there are a few of them. In an effort to try and baby the car back to a trustworthy position, I have replaced the rotors and pads, the air filter, the cabin air filter and the fuel filter DIY thanks to the forum and youtube. I have ordered an OBD II reader and will leave it attached until I have more confidence in the car.

Any and all input as to what else I can do to trouble shoot or replace is welcomed. I am mechanically inclined but am a little concerned with trying to remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump by myself unless that is definitely the issue.

Would like to keep my cat but she may be turning on me.

Thank you all

 

luvmy, first off, welcome to the forums. I think you will find a lot of useful information here. BUt, we do ask that you stop by the New Member section and introduce yourself. we like to get to know one another and this also gives you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.

As for your problem, if your fuel pump is giving you grief, it should be tossing a code too. You do not mention the Check Engine light coming on. So, i would be looking at something else. Something that I would tell you to look at is the plugs connected to the throttle body. These can come loose and cause the car to turn off. The other thing that I would tell you to look at is if you look down near the alternator (behind the passenger side headlight), you will see a bolt with 6 wires running to it. Remove that bolt and then clean up those connectors. Then install the bolt and make sure that it is tight.

Now, when you say that the motor stalls out, is it like you turned the ignition switch off or does the car kinda spit and sputter then finally dies. This may lead to a problem.

 

Thanks Thermo. Will do on the new member intro.
yes the engine light did go on. No sputtering. When I stepped on the gas to accelerate, there was no power like the ignition was turned off with the engine light on.
What is the best thing to use to clean those contacts?

 

So, did the engine actually shut off or the engine was running but would not accelerate? Did it do that at 3000 RPMS? If so, that would have been in limp home mode. When you say the check engine light came on was it one when the engine was actually running or did it just come on with all the other dash light if the engine actually stalled out? If the engine light was on when the engine was actually running have the codes read and post here. I'm sure someone would be able to diagnose it for you from there. Just seems odd to have two fuel pumps go on you. Can't say I have ever seen a post like that and just a few where the person actually did have to change the fuel pump. Not that common a problem on these cars.

 

Although low miles on a vehicle is good in one respect, it also brings with it other issues. Regardless of Jaguar model, we find members who use their vehicles regularly have far less irritating problems than those who only do low and infrequent mileage.

Your plan to put a code reader on it is the best way to start troubleshooting. Post back here with any actual codes.

Graham

 

Was going about 40 mph (I guess that would be around 3K RPMs) and engine shut off with engine light. No error codes. I don't think it's the fuel pump since the first time it went, it did give an error code P0131.

Low miles but used frequently locally 4 - 5 times a week.

Still need to check out Thermo check list.

 

luvmy, stop by your local auto parts store and get some contact cleaner. For electrical connections, this is about the best stuff you can use.

This is one of the few cases where the Check Engine light is deceptive. The car sees the key in the RUN position and the motor not turning. So, yes, it will turn on the light and not give you any codes. I would still recommend seeing if any codes are there as this might help us out. With you up at around 3,000 RPM and having the engine shut off, odds are it is not the fuel pump. You should have at least heard it start to sputter and whatnot. i am still leaning towards those wires I was mentioning earlier. The only other possibility is the ECU is loosing power momentarily and that is causing it to stop the spark to the engine and therefore shuts the engine off.

 

OK. I was too embarassed to admit I didn't know where it is and what the throttle looks like so I figured I'd follow the spark plug wires and end up there. Not so easy. I removed the plastic cover in back of the air filter to hopefully expose the spark plugs but only one is visible on the left and I can't follow the wire. I'll remove the air filter unit if I have to... please let me know. The 3 in the back are under the manifold and if I have to remove that, I might as well replace the gaskets and spark plugs while I'm there. When I went to the auto parts store to get contact cleaner I asked them to show me but they couldn't find it either. So now I have to ask... please tell me where the throttle is. Anywhere I saw a harness connecter on the driver side of the manifold, I pushed them together to make sure they were in tight.

As for the bolt with 6 wires behind the passenger headlights... well I have 2 bolts, 1 with 3 wires and 1 with 2 wires. They look like ground wires. I did unbolt them and spray them and the washers and put them back real tight. There is another bolt on the driver side behind the headlights and if you tell me I did the correct ones, I'll do the driver side tomorrow.

As for the OBD scan reader codes.. here goes.
Codes Total 01
Fault Codes 00
Pend codes 01

Trouble Codes:
P1000 PD 01/01
DBD Systems readiness
Test not Complete

The live monitoring with engine on not totally warmed up.
Fuel Sys1 CL,Using HO2S
Sys2 Usong HO2S
Coolant 111 deg F
ST FTRM1% varied from about -1.5 to -4.6
LT FTRM1% -2.3%
ST FTRM2% varied from -.07 to -4.6
LT FTRM2% -2.3
Fuel Pres 56
MAP 12.7
ENGINE RPM 786
IGN ADV 9.5
IAT 76 deg F
MAF .733
ABSLT TPS 5.0
02512 (maybe 02S12) .335 0.7
02522 (maybe 02S22) .575 0.7

FYI...Took the car for a little drive to auto parts store and worked perfectly except the key fob wouldn't lock the doors when I got there. Had to turn off OBD reader turn car on and off and then key fob worked again.

Thank you again for any and all help.

 

luvmy, the wires you cleaned were not the correct ones. If you follow the wire bundle that comes out from the coils/fuel injectors, one of the runs should go down near the alternator. That will have 6 lugs under a bolt.

 

It's very odd that you have P1000. You ought to have P1111 instead.

P1000 means the OBD monitors haven't all run (as they should, shortly after any battery disconnect or OBD codes clear).

That can mean a power fault (which is resetting the code to P1000).

Or it can be that ever since last time the codes were cleared there's something blocking at least one monitor so that it can't run OK. This would be a fault of some sort, usually with a sensor.

 

Hmmm.. That brings back a memory of the service advisor first saying that my ecm was not "online". When I asked him what that meant he said if it's the ecm then I could be looking at thousands of dollars. Then he came back later that day and said that techs agreed that my issue was a "hard" issue not a "soft" issue and that it was not the ecm. But that is starting to indicate an electrical issue which is where Thermo was going. I think I need to take a trip back to the dealer this week and see if I can get someone in the service dept to show me where the throttle is and that bundle of 6 wires to bolt that Thermo suggested I check.
Thank you.

 

I've had this same issue happen to me twice. I'm the original owner from 2004. At least 5 years ago it died going down the highway. Coasted to a stop, shut the key off and took it out, put it back in and started fine. Just recently, after almost 5 years of no problems I was on a very busy I-10 freeway doing about 75 and all of a sudden the instrument cluster lights all came on and I knew the engine had died. No sputter, just shut off cold all at once. Luckily with the speed I was going I had enough momentum to get off on an exit and pull off. Same thing, took out the key, then put back in and restarted fine, no problem since. Just very dangerous for this to happen on a busy freeway. I'm going to check the bolt with wires near the alternator.

 

Not a good feeling at all. I'm going to take another look under the hood this time out of the garage in daylight to see if I can locate mine otherwise I'll go to the dealer later in the week. Do you have an OBD II reader? Any error codes?

 

This is driving me nuts. I had the car out in daylight to look for that bolt with 6 wires. On the passenger side in back of the headlights is a small well with those 2 grounding bolts that I described and cleaned earlier. Heading towards the car next is a Bosch unit with small tubes going into it that I believe is the refrigerant unit. Behind that is the windshield washer fluid. To the right of the refrigerant is the oil fill. Almost directly below the oil fill I believe is the alternator. I don't see 6 wires going to any bolt. Am I looking for a bolt going into the body of the car or the engine? I know my car has the sport package, could it be that this bolt is in a different location on my car? I thought the sport package only affected the suspension.

Am I looking for a bolt in the body/chassis or engine?
What is the purpose of these wires so I can ask the dealer where it is in case he can't find this bolt in this location either at least I can describe it's function?
Ahhhhhhhh!

 

luvmy, the bolt I am referring to should be bolted right into the block of the engine near the alternator. These wires are the ground wires for the 6 coils. It has been noted via a TSB that these lugs can get corroded and it will cause the engine to run rough and sometimes quit. In your case, I think the bolt has gotten loose and you are loosing connection.

 

Just came back from the dealer. Service adviser brought out the tech that actually worked on my car which was very nice. So the throttle is right after the rubber hose going into the intake manifold. That was easy. He said to be very careful about touching the wires attached. The clips felt like they were in tight. Should I remove them, spray them with contact cleaner and put them back?
He said that the 5 wires I cleaned (1 bolt with 3 and 1 bolt with 2) were the coil ground wires. I took off the cover in back of the air filter that goes over the oil fill and we followed the 3 wires from the coil of the one spark plug visible directly into a plastic sheath/harness. We followed that harness to the left towards the alternator where a group of wires split off and went to a sensor to the left of oil fill he called the VVT and another sensor above the alternator. There was one more bolt with one really thin wire attached to the engine above the alternator that was under the radiator hose. I will remove and clean that guy tomorrow when the engine is cool. The wire does touch the engine just after the bolt and the insulation might be melted on the underside from the heat but looks good on top. I will know tomorrow when I unbolt it and put it back so the wire does not touch the engine. When I asked him why there were only 5 ground wires behind the headlight area for 6 coils, he just said that it's different for different models and that the 6th one we found under the radiator might be the 6th one. He was aware of the TSB for the corroded/loose ground bolt and was happy that I was taking care of that myself. He said a voltage spike could also be the cause but he checked the voltage between the battery and the alternator and all was good. He said he could throw parts at it to try and fix it but it could get very expensive and still not resolve the issue. He said until the situation was duplicated heat, rpms, sensor reading etc there was nothing else he could do.

Now Davidoo that had this same issue has a 2004 but we don't know if it's a 3.0 but I'm curious to know when he goes to check for the 6 wire bolt what he finds.

Also since I got it back from the dealer last time I've been riding around without the radio and climate control on. Usually I leave the climate control on AC and AUTO all the time from start up to shut off. It's cool enough here in Southern Cal right now so I'll leave it off for another week or 2. If nothing bad happens, I'll turn it back on and see if the extra load with AC on causes the problem or any other change.

Any other suggestions or help is appreciated, I still won't drive on the highway at nite and I still drive in the right lane during the day... just in case. The car rides really smooth, I just don't trust her yet.

 

I removed and cleaned the one wire bolted to engine under the radiator hose and cleaned it. The terminal end was stuck on there and I gently pulled on it until it came off and there was no damage to the underside of the wire that was touching the engine.
I went back to the throttle to check the connectors on both sides. Neither one of them would push in any further but when I tried to wiggle them and pull them apart rather than push together, the one on the driver's side slid off as if it didn't have a locking clip on it. It looks like it did at one point and is brittle from the heat. It doesn't look like that connector can be replaced without any problems so I took a zip tie and pulled the connector together as tight as it would go. I'm afraid the zip tie will eventually dry up from the heat and break off. Is there a better way to tightly attach or is it possible to replace this connector?
Don't really know if this was the cause of my issue and I'm still confused about not having the 6 wire bolt that Thermo spoke of.
Anything else I can check or do?

Will wait a week and if no problems, I'll turn on climate control then radio a week after that. Trying to control things to catch this bugger.

 

Took another look at the connector driver side throttle and another little piece of plastic fell off where the lock tab would be. The part with the contacts in it is still in tact. Got 3M high heat rubberized electrical tape. Tape stretches and allows me to pull the parts of the connector together as I wrap it. Sprayed the side not attached to the throttle with contact cleaner. Don't want to accidentally get anything into the throttle. Put zip tie on after tape and is now sealed and tightly connected. Other side of throttle connector is fine so I cleaned the contacts on the side not connected to throttle and wrapped with tape to seal. Tape can be cut off in case of future access.
Still curious if Davidoo found his 6 wire bolt that I don't seem to have.

 

luvmyjagx, I do have the 3.0. I'm sorry, too busy with work to get it on ramps and look at that area. I'll try this weekend. Mine has been running fine again, but I have only had it happen twice with the stall in 10 years, so it may never happen again.

 

Hi All,
It's been a while and I have completed my testing by adding working features with the final being the climate control and the engine stall/cutoff has not reared it's ugly head again. In an effort to help someone else, here is a recap of what I have done DIY and what I will do every year to help ensure that this issue is gone for good just in case one of these things cured the ill.
1. Checked connections on both sides of the throttle. Right side had lock tab broken off so wrapped high heat rubberized electrical tape around it and zip tie to keep tight. Also cleaned contact on non throttle side of connector.
2. Unbolted the single ground wire on the engine block near alternator and cleaned and reattached.
3. Unbolted and cleaned the 5 ground wires behind the passenger headlight and reattached. 2 & 3 I believe equal the 6 wires Thermo mentioned that doesn't seem to be on my model.
4.Changed the engine air filter.
5.Changed the cabin air filter.
6.Changed the fuel filter and the fuse that I pulled to depressurize the fuel filter. The map I had labels the fuse as F81 but I've seen some references to it as #7. Changed the fuse as a CYA probably not necessary.
7. 5 year old interstate battery had corrosion on original negative battery cable so I changed the negative battery cable and cleaned connections. Will have battery tested next year to see if it needs changing.

A special thanks to all that helped. My confidence in my cat has been 80% restored. Sometimes when I take my foot off the gas and it downshifts, I quickly check my tach to see if I've stalled but it hasn't. I will continue to check in with this site to see if there is any help I can offer to pay back to this great community.