I really shouldn't be surprised at how well you guys know this car anymore, but you'll never guess where I found probably the original leak of coolant. From the expansion tank, way under the very bottom where a connection meets the tank. I thought I had checked every connection there but apparently I overlooked this one. I picked up the car from my friends place and couldn't believe it was low on coolant again after he changed the water pump. He showed me where it was leaking from the pump, so I now believe I found culprits of leaks in two places, which ultimately led to whatever is causing this CEL/limp mode. So, I am going to order a new tank, is that something I can replace myself? I read the nipple is the part that breaks normally, but isnt that part of the hose going into the tank and not the tank itself? Just want to make sure I buy the right thing.

On Monday I should have some headway on codes and am hoping to get some more helpful advice from you all! Thanks again guys.

 

bump

can anyone advise on changing out the expansion tank? does the nozzle leading into the tank also have to be changed?

No news on the codes yet, the jag dealer rescheduled me because apparently they have no way to read codes other than the connector even though over the phone they said otherwise.

 

Queen, the nipple on the tank is part of the tank, not the hose. Replacing the tank is pretty straight forward. Disconnect a few hoses, undo a few bolts, out pops the tank. Just becareful to collect any coolant that may leak out. THen install the new bottle and add in the necessary coolant to fill it to the "HOT" line. Then add in what is necessary to restore the coolant to the necessary line following a good drive.

I say to fill to the "HOT" line when the motor is cold only because you will be having some air come out of the system based on the work which will cause the level to drop slightly. SO, it should restore it back to a proper level or something fairly close.

 

Thanks Thermo that was exactly the info I was looking for. I think I will attempt this myself. I found a new tank for under $100 online, and with your description it sounds like a good DIY project. Appreciate your guidance and when I finally get some codes, I will post them here to figure out the CEL.

 

Last cars (BMW, Taurus) that I replaced the tanks on I left the top off the tank while the car warmed up, and lett all the air out of the system before allowing it to get under pressure. The Taurus taught me that as the reservour tank had a weakness and if you didn't let the air out, it cracked the tank. Just an FYI.

 

thanks for the tip. So I should fill the coolant up to hot, leave the cap off and start the car. Let it warm to normal temp and then cover?

 

Queen, yes. THis prevents a pressure build up as the gas in the system heats up and expands. This is probably what leads to the tank failure as the gas can build up to a few pounds with the car heating up to temp.

 

Exactly as Thermo said, it's really important, if there is any weakness in the tank it will go before the pressure cap does.

 

Yay, the PCL connector issue is fixed and codes are read. Apparently there is a bunch of them Do you guys think I should have the dealer do further diagnosis about the problem/codes? Or if I post the codes here do you think we should be able to get a good idea of what to fix so I can take it my local shop? Thanks!

 

Queen, based on the issues that you have been having lately, what I would tell you to do is to either disconnect the battery to reset the codes or to have the codes cleared electronically (any code reader should be able to do this), then see what comes back. Then get the codes read again and see what is still hanging out there. This way we are not being lead astray due to something from way back when. From there we can give you some ideas of what to look at and hopefully get you back on the road 100% for fairly cheap.

 

I'd post them first. It may be something fairly simple.

 

Thank you to you both. Really, you guys have been great. I will go ahead get the car and codes, then get a reader or autozone to clear them and read them again. In the meantime I will post the codes from the dealer and do some research with existing posts based on those codes. 1 step at a time... thanks!

BTW, in case anyone is curious in need to get this done, the rewiring for the code reader/PCL connector cost $325 parts and labor. Not too bad, I am just glad it works again and didn't need a new ECM.

 

well guys, from what I got back, I'm scared but I am going to take Thermo's advice and clear the codes and then do another read before I decide on what to do. Here is what Jaguar returned on the codes, and it's quite a lot (and looks bad)....

P1071 & P0174 System too lean Bank 2 & 1 (I remember that this is generally a vacuum leak code)
P0303 & P0302 Cylinder 3 & 2 misfire
P0442 & P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak
P1314 Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Bank 2
P1637 CAN Link ECM/ABS Control Module Circuit Unit Malfunction
P1638 CAN Link ECM/Instrument Cluster Circuit Unit Malfunction

The last two don't make sense to me as they seem unrelated to anything with my symptoms. There are codes for misfires which make me uneasy. The question I have is are these codes stored from the history of the car even if they have been cleared? Thanks and I'll try to clear and reread tomorrow evening and post back.

edit: from this thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ailible-46623/ that has similar codes it looks like upper and lower manifold gaskets need to be replaced, plus spark plugs?

 

Queen, looking at the codes, if you do consider doing the plugs, all the rest will pretty much be ready to do too (except for the lower gaskets, but that is a few more bolts). I would guess that if a shop had the top half of the intake off during this, they may have pinched the wires for the coils for cylinders 2 and 3, leading to the misfires and all the other codes.

As for a code reader, check out your local auto parts store. I picked up a based code reader for like $70. It was fairly cheap and gives me something that I can check the codes any time I want on any vehicle (used it on Fords, Chevy's, Jags, Nissan, and Toyota so far). I forget the name of the manufacturer, but they are the bright orange units they have hanging up normally. The only "downside" to them is their descriptions are pretty vague on the hand held device, so, you end up having to write down the number(s) and then going inside to your computer to look up the detailed information about them. But then, in a lot of cases, you can find out what the problem is once you go online anyways. So, not that big of a deal for me.

 

Thermo,

thanks. Since I have had the car the intake hasn't been off, unless something was done in need for changing the water pump and thermostat. These are the codes that Jaguar dealer retrieved just after fixing the OBDii connector which is why as you say I am not sure if they are recent or not. Based off just these codes I matched it with that CEL thread I posted 2 posts ago which suggested doing the upper and lower manifold plus changing spark plugs. I am going to follow your advice and get the reader and clear them out, and then reread. I will repost whatI find today or tomorrow. thanks!

 

Queens, Thermo is dead on. You've got the lean codes so do the typical "big 3" inspection of the IMT's, PCV hose and brake booster hose and then clear the codes to see what comes back. Sometimes one simple thing can set off a chain of other codes.

 

well.......... I think the car is cursed at this point. I purchased the OBD-II reader Actron CP9215 and am getting NO LINK everytime I try to read codes, just like my mechanic was. The reader works fine on my Aviator. Not sure what the dealer did to read codes from the DLC link, but honestly I'm starting to get fed up with this car. I'm starting to feel like Disco, lol.


...........Now I'm wondering if the P1638 CAN Link ECM/Instrument cluster code is related to this issue.

 

Hey guys, based on those codes do you think I should be changing out the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets or the head gaskets? I am going to purchase some parts tomorrow and my friend is going to do the install. The plenum gaskets stshots recommended looked like they were only for 3.0 engines. Mine is 2.5. Is there a difference?

 

Th 2.5 and the 3.0 are the same gaskets. Exact same intakes on both engines. The plenum gaskets are easy and if you've never had the intake off, it may be time for some new spark plugs anyway. To change the plugs, you have to pull the upper intake. The lower is really easy with just a few more bolts and it will fold up and out of the way to do the lower gaskets. The hardest part of the whole job for me, was cleaning the old oily dirt build up out of the gasket seats.

Did you ever get a chance to inspect the vaccum system for leaks? Just to be sure, I'd have a look at that PCV hose first. It will be obvious if its bad and will likely be split on the underside... For the others, you can always do the good ol' starter fluid trick where you spray a bit around a possible leak while the car is running and listen for a change in idle. If it changes, you have just found a leak...

As far as doing head gaskets, I don't think you are there yet. If they had failed, you'd likely have a lot more problems and a much more clear smoking gun.

The P1637 and P1638 codes are short circuit codes on the can bus. They could mean a few things and if the mechanics hadnt been messing around with your OBDII connector, Id say it was a bad ECM, still could be, but I think its very likely that they were caused during the rewiring process.

That sucks about the code reader, but at least you did get some codes to point you in a general direction. All is not lost.

I did find this online too, it may be able to help you find some codes. I've personally never tried it, so I have no idea if it works or relates the ECM in any way aside from the cluster but hey, its worth a look i suppose. Give it a whirl:

Hidden away in your Jaguar is the X-Type Instrument cluster dianostics, a very useful if difficult to read Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS).
This IDS is a self-diagnostic mode known as ETM, it can be used to show the status of the instrument cluster inputs as well as other useful diagnostic features. The central LCD on the X Type and RH Message center S-Type displays internal data that can be cycled through by repeated pressing the trip button.
X-TYPE Instrument Cluster Self-Diagnostic ETM
VIN: C00344 onward


To place the cluster in ETM, perform the following:

• Press and hold the stalk trip cycle button whilst turning the ignition from position 0 to position II, until'TEST' or 'ENGINEERING TEST MODE’ is displayed on the Message Centre display. The stalk trip cycle button must be released within three seconds of 'ENGINEERING TEST MODE’ being displayed or the instrument cluster will exit Self- Diagnostic mode.
• To navigate forward through the instrument cluster Self-Diagnostic Mode tests, press the tip of the indicator stalk (X-Type) or the trip computer ‘MLS/KMS’ button(S Type).
• To navigate backward through the instrument cluster Self-Diagnostic Mode tests (S Type), press the trip computer ‘A/B’ button.
• To exit Self-Diagnostic Mode, press the stalk trip cycle button for more than three seconds.
• The Self-Diagnostic Mode is also deactivated when the ignition switch is turned to the 'OFF' position, or low battery voltage is detected.
• If the Self-Diagnostic Mode cannot be accessed (check function of buttons), use IDS/WDS to diagnose the instrument cluster.

Good luck!

 

Thank you stshots! Your response was so detailed, pretty much took care of all my questions. Much appreciated.

I agree, I think based on the signs the head gaskets aren't what needs replaced yet as there isn't oil in coolant or coolant in oil or white smoke from exhaust. From what both you and Thermo indicated it sounds like U/L manifold gaskets and plugs. They haven't been changed so they are likely long overdue. Thanks for clearing the 2.5/3.0 specs up I am going to go ahead and purchase them.

Yesterday I inspected the PCV hose and did not see any cracks even on the underside. I did see what seemed like an indentation on the top where it connects but I can't tell if that is normal or not. I will try your recommendation with the spray there and other obvious vacuum leaks places.


As for the Codes/ETM thing-- WOW, that was such a cool find!!! If that works I would be so happy to have found a work around for this code reader because it is driving me insane at this point. I think you're right that 1637 and 1638 could have been codes when one of the 3 mechanics(euro tech, dealer, friend) looking at the wiring did something. If the ECM ends up being bad I suppose that the ETM method won't work either. But if the dealer was able to get me codes, I am thinking the ECM should be ok. This sounds like a perfect way to get around the OBDII problem, as I could probably read this way and then clear with a battery disconnect as Thermo indicated.

Again thanks for taking the time to respond and clear up my questions, you guys are great!