Hello,

Im new to the forum! My car started overheating( check engine light, high engine temp warning, no cruise control message) after I lowered the AC temp from 70 to 60 degrees. I took the car into the car, mechanic says it's a cracked radiator, which is replaced. After I received my car back, no overheating, but car is sluggish with drive, misfires, and idles on start up. Two days later It starts overheating again with the check engine light and high engine temperture alerts. I replaced the Thermostat, no change car still overheats with same check engine light and high engine temperture warning. My mechanic suggest it's a cracked/leak in the headgasket! I get a diagnostic today with these 6 error codes that popped up which were the following :

1)P1000- Do I ignore this one?

2)P0300- Misfire on cylinder 3

3)P0303- Misfire on cylinder 5

4)P1313- Intake Air Temp- How do I correct this?

5)P1316- Injection Circuit-IDM detected- How do I correct this?

6)P0118-Engine Coolant- I'm assuming by topping off the anitfreeze? How do I correct this?


PLEASE HELP ASAP,

The car loses power when I get past 2nd gear or driving after about 10 minutes,cooling fan aslo runs about 10 mins after I turn off car. I've replaced a brake booster line,spark plugs, gaskets within the upper manifold, and o-rings.the overflow tank, and the water pump. Car runs fine while idling, but when it's driven after about ten minutes or reaches past 2000-3000 RPM(Automatic) it will overheat again. ANY IDEAS?

Repair history:
I've had a new shifer cable and gearbox installed about 2 years ago. I've also had the overflow tank, "02" sensor, and throttle body hose replaced 3 1/2 years ago.

Thanks,

 

I forgot to add, I had another mechanic check the heads and ignition coils and he said they're fine!

 

ICEE, first off, welcome to the forums. I think you will find lots of good information here that will help you isolate your problem down to a specific component.

First off, with your overheating issue. Are you loosing coolant? If yes, then I would check the nipples on the overflow bottle (specifically the one on the back side near the firewall) for a white line in the plastic. If you have a white line, the bottle is cracked and when the system gets up to temp, the pressure in the system will force the crack to open up and you will loose coolant, leading to no coolant in the engine and your overheating condition.

If you are not loosing coolant, does the car only seem to overheat when on the highway, only when in town, or doesn't matter? If it is only in town, then odds are your fan control module is starting to go and you are not getting your fans to turn fast enough to provide enough cooling. When the fans come on, they should be pushing enough air that if you were to lean over the fans, your hair should be moving around (think of riding a motorcycle at 40 mph with no helmet on). If you are getting just a gentle breeze, there is a source of your problem.

If you are overheating on the highway, then odds are you have a water pump that is starting to go, which is starving the motor of adequate cooling. A new water pump is an easy install. The X-Type has probably the easiest water pump to replace of any car out there. Based on what you are describing, this is what you are seeing.

As for the intake temp sensor bit and the misfires, I say to get the cooling system dealt with first and you may find that the others will correct themselves. If they continue, I would first start with checking the condition of the battery. It is a well known fact that the batteries in the X-Type will cause random error codes when the battery is starting to go. This may be what you are seeing.

 

Thermo,

It was a crack in the overfloow and I replaced the overflow,but car still overheats when actually driving, when car is still on idle it's at half way mark with the temperature.

Can you show me the nipples that your referring to?

 

Frankly speaking I've no idea what is going on with your car, but since you're in South CA, I could advise to pay a visit to this shop, if you won't be able to fix the problem. I've known them for years and I it's one of the best car services (in many ways) I've seen so far. I guess Brandon [the owner] could help you to fix your cat.

 

ICEE, the crack in the overflow that you are talking about is the "cracks in the nipples" that I was talking about. Since you are still overheating on the highway, I would be looking at replacing the water pump. Sounds like the blades on the water pump are well worn and you are not getting sufficient flow. The only other possibility is a blockage in the coolant system, leading to low flow.

 

maybe your water pump is shot? worth investagating

 

Thermometer & Rust,

I've already replaced the water pump, so how do I clear that blockage within the coolant system?

 

ICEE, your best bet would be to disconnect the radiator from the car and then using a garden hose, push water backwards through the system and seeing if you can push it out that way. Other wise, you are looking at having to push something mechanical through the passages and figure out where the blockage is.

Not to ask a silly question, but did someone use stop leak to try and fix the radiator leak? If so, you may have bigger issues. The stop leak stuff can really raise hell. Just trying to get a feel for what all has happened.

 

sounds like a air lock could be your problem, but airlocks dont just happen, so a carefull blead followed be a sniff test would tell you if its the dreaded head gasket failer, trust me i hope its not

 

Assuming my heads were blown, I did put Blue Devil Head Gasket sealant in my vehicle, which didn't change the overheating. Other than that I just put in Antifreeze (dec cool). I will have a mechanic look for the blockage.

Rust,

Air Lock? Could you go into some depth as to how it works/effects the vehicles performance? I'm hoping its not the head gaskets, if so I guess my times in the cat are over!

 

Update:
There was blockage somewhere within the cooling system.
The 'brand new thermostat' had white stuff on it and was clearly not operating correctly. Disconnected the thermostat and used a garden hose to run water and found white marsh smallow (could be the Blue Devil or a mechanic added a little something extra with hopes I'd return to him paying for more work) looking clumps leaking out my car. I flushed it out with water, cleaned the thermostat, and made sure no more white stuff was within my system. So,now my car runs perfectly fine.with no CEL or overheating problems anymore.

 

Wow ya I have heard the engine additives and leak stop chemicals of any kind cause more damage than good...glad to hear it back up and running correctly though!

 

ICEE, good to hear that it was something easy and you were able to do it yourself. Keep an eye on things and go from there. You got off cheap this time. Those "Stop Leak" products are good for certain situations (ie, wrong part of the world, your car is broken and you are just trying to get out of the area before all hell breaks loose or something of the like). But, to try and get you by for a little longer tends to cost you much more in the long run.

Enjoy the kitty and keep her tummy happy.

 

Update,

So my car is running fine, overheated on one more time, so I cleaned the cooling system again, more white stuff was still coming out! No more issues since, except the CEL coming off and off after I cleaned the cooling system.

Yesterday, my CEL comes back on, but my car is running fine no overheating.This time I'm not ignoring the CEL,so I get another diagnostic done today and the following codes came up:

P1316 again- should I change the ECT?

P0102- should I change the Mass Air flow sensor?

P0112- should I change the IAT sensor?

After I had the diagnostic, my CEL went off once again. Since I'm not having any problems should I ignore the following codes above or change the things mentioned above?

 

Hi,
I don't know if you've resolved your problem yet or not, but I just had this problem on my 2002 X-type 3.0. I ended up replacing the water pump, thermostat, sensor, and since my "jag" has 120k on it I put in Steel Seal with my coolant. Total cost was around $400 USD and it took me about 4 hours total labor. One thing I found that helped me bleed the system was a funnel, see here--> . It was a really easy job and fixed all of my issues.

 

I wasn't sure if those were dummy codes coming back up, so still haven't changed the ECT . Were you getting the same three error codes?

 

Have you been a had a sniff test done yet? its worth getting one done just for piece of mind. Are getting the moyo on the oil filler cap.

 

Icee
yeah I had all the same error codes you were getting, changing it all out seemed to fix it, at least for me. Now I'm dealing with another problem. I was driving down the free way, 75 MPH, and the coolant tank exploded! It was a very pretty sight, coolant everywhere! I knew it was leaking, but didn't know it would go off like a bomb!! Jaguar never does anything small. I got a new take and put it on, filled it with fluid, not having any problems at all.

I seriously love this car, she's my spoiled child I've always wanted!

 

Hi I'm having a similar problem but the vehicle had a sudden oil temp rise to the max temperature i could not stop and took emergency action like slowing the speed of the vehicle and putting the heater on max but the heat never rise at all so the engine could not cool down at first i thought it was the fan but i think it might have been that the coolant had leaked but at the traffic lights i spotted steam and the smell of burning.

note: i noticed a rattle sound and all of a sudden the car sounded like a diesel but after shutting down the first time the vehicle did not enter limp home mode plese explain