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Old 04-01-2011, 11:27 AM
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Default P0332... Knock sensor replacement.

Got a KS fault code and I am stuck in limp mode... Son of a! It’s done it in the past here and there and I've cleared the code but now it’s very frequent. I've got the JTIS, so I've got the basic info needed for replacing it.

The reason for my post is:

1. Should I anticipate picking up more seals than the upper plenum gaskets?
2. Any advice for properly pulling the fuel rail?
3. Any other gremlins I could run into?
4. Others may benefit from the infinite knowledge from this forum!

I’ve pulled the upper intake before so that’s nothing new.

Thoughts? thermo? ;-)
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Last edited by stshots; 04-01-2011 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:04 PM
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stshots, if you haven't replaced the IMT o-rings recently, now would be a good time to do them. Same with the spark plugs. As for other seals, I would recommend picking up a box of fuel injector o-rings. It is my experience that regardless of how careful you are trying not to loose any, you will. Having the spares there just saves on the frustration later and a box of o-rings is cheap.

As for pulling the fuel rail, I haven't pulled the one on the Jag, but in pulling others, start at one end and walk it up from there. To relieve the fuel pressure, find the schrader valve (will look like a tire valve stem, but on the fuel rail), remove the cap off the valve than then use a small screw driver to push on the center pin. Don't forget to put a rag over the top to catch any gas that may come out. Also keep in mind that once you get the fuel rail loose, you are going to get some more fuel out.

As for other gremlins, I am not aware of any. Take your time, label things if you are even questioning yourself and go from there. On a side note, once you get things reassembled, prior to starting the engine, turn the key to the run position and let it set for about 10 seconds. This will give the fuel pump a chance to fill the fuel lines and push out most of the air. This will also give you a chance to look under the hood for any fuel leaks (do this check, TRUST ME!!!!! the resulting fire isn't pretty).

It shouldn't be that bad. take your time and make sure things are back where they need to be.
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Old 04-02-2011, 01:09 PM
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If you have already pulled the upper intake then the lower intake with the injectors build in to it is not much more work just 4 more bolts, disconnect the harness connector for the fuel rail and fish it out from under the engine harness, disconnect the coolant temp sensor connector so that you can pull the rail past it, and disconnect the fuel line, then remove.

You will not need fuel injector seal like the previous reply stated, but IMT seals are a definite if you have not already done them. along with new pcv valve and updated pcv breather hose, spark plugs, both upper and lower intake seals 6 of each and throttle body gasket if you take it off the intake(i usually don't). you will also need a tool to disconnect fuel line going to the fuel rail. it is just a quick dis-connect, can be purchased for a couple bucks form auto part store.

More than likely you knock sensor is bad from soaking in coolant. there are a couple seals and o-rings under the intake that leak. usually it is the bypass pipe o-rings that leak.

Once the fuel rail is off take a vacuum and suck out all the dirt then clean the block with a scotch brite pad

also clean the block where the knock sensor mount so that it is free from corrosion.

I think that is it

good luck.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:17 AM
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Good stuff guys.

As for the IMT rings, plugs and PCV, Yes, I have replaced them all in the past. I was just in there replacing an o-ring on the cooling system that had let go and leaked antifreeze all over the lower intake. It was intersting that when it went, it happened in the driveway and after the car had been sitting for a day undriven. I thought that was strange but I was glad it happened where I could easily repair it.

The knock sensor was on its way out anyway but yes Austin, I think the coolant bath was its last straw.

I've got the parts on order so I'll tear into it in another week or so.

Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:59 PM
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Ok... Finished it tonight. Took the car out for about 30 minutes and all is well. Keep your fingers crossed she stays that way. There were a few pains on this project and I took photos so that anyone else may benefit.

1. Upper intake removal... No problem. Done this before, not too tough.
2. Lower intake removal... No problem again. Didn't need to remove the fuel rail as it all folded nicely out of the way.
3. Water inlet/outlet removal... The real pain of the project. A water neck connected to a steel tube that bolts to the water pump. The steel tube, not so bad. Just make sure you get a new o-ring for the water neck side and a new seal for the water pump side. The water neck was a !$#@. One of the two bolts is easily accessible, the other is under a metal flange on the head where another water neck attaches. I tried everything to get to that bolt. Finally I bought a swivel 10mm stubby gear wrench. I positioned it on, then used a steel bar and a mallet to hit it just right to break the bolt loose.
4. Knock sensor removal/installation... Super easy at that point. I was very careful to torque it properly to 18 FT LB as I've read its very critical to get it right on a KS. Seemed fairly light to me but spec is spec...

Everything went back together nice and smooth. If anyone else is doing this project and thinks about skimping on the lower plenum gaskets and water seals, think again. Mine were shot at 80,000 miles. They are cheap and worth the replacement. I took a photo of the comparison between the new and old gaskets.


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Last edited by Cadillac; 04-19-2011 at 04:16 AM. Reason: to make it small screen friendly
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:59 PM
 
 
 
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Tags
2002, 900, code, fuel, install, jaguar, knock, location, p0332, rail, repair, saab, sensor, type, xtype



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