My trunk will not open from the key remote nor will the toggle switch work that is located on the rear of the trunk.

QUESTION: IS THERE A KEY HOLE ON THE REAR OF THE TRUNK?

I have read on line questions/anwsers and have been told that a key hole is located between the rear license plate and looks like a "hex" shape. You need to look carefully because it is hidden.

#1. I have removed the license plate. Nothing there other than the two holes for the license plate.
#2. I have been told the "hex" shape is above and between the license plate or it is between the lettering on the rear of the trunk (my model doesn't have anything located anywhere that looks like a "hex" shape. Nothing.
#3. The toggle switch (the switch that manually opens the trunk DOESN"T WORK)
#4. The plastic glow in the dark, emergency handle fell off about 2.5 weeks ago, so even if I could access the trunk from the inside, it won't open.

I have read all of the questions/answers but I have not seen any responses as to how anyone eventually got the trunk open?

Thanks for any assistance you can give.
Pam

 

When I went to NP02 (New Product 2002, the X-Type intro) we asked how to gain access to the boot if the latch button stopped working. The reply from the Jaguar engineers was to break out the left tail light assy and reach in for the manual release handle.

Several years later we had a car at the dealer and both the keyfob transmitter and the boot lid button would NOT open the lid.

I called Jag tech line and asked if there was an updated way to gain access and the answer was 'still' to break out the left tail lamp assy to reach the release handle so I took a large hole saw and drilled several holes through the tail lamp and broke out a large section to get my arm in the hole and grab the release handle (I now had a large audience of dealer employees to watch the excitement). I installed a new tail lamp assy and repaired the original fault (I forget what failed, harness??, latch motor??)

Since the boot lid handle is missing I would reach in with a 'hook' of some sort to grab the rear seat release. Then remove the boot lid carpeted liner to access the latch.

You might find a good used tail lamp at a salvage yard??

Good Luck

bob gauff

 

Motorcarman, is there any way that doesn't involve breaking out the tail light assembly? i'm having a similar issue on my 2001 x-type but in addition to the trunk not opening, the interior lights stay on and the door ajar signal is lit on the console. can't drive at night for risk of being pulled over because interior lights are SO bright

 

If the seats don't fold down because they are latched, NO!!!!!
I can't think of another way.
I think your door latch switch is faulty for the interior light fault.

bob gauff

 

Hi there. My issue was a GECM (I think that's what its called) plug that my son kicked loose on accident. Trunk opened as soon as I reconnected it.

 

the only way i found which worked was to remove liscence plate and droll a hole behind about 3" through boot skin.
it is then possiblt to put a screwdriver down towards boot release mechanism on the lock and flick it open.
the small hole is an easy repair and is hidden once the plate is on anyway.
Took ages to work out but definately works i have had to do it for a few people and is actually quite easy to do and you can use car str

 

Not sure if this will work, not done it myself, but I did read this:

Access the GECM by popping out the cubby hole by the drivers knee (right hand drive). The cable you need to cut into is the blue wire on pin 16 on the brown connector on the GECM. Just splice a new wire into it and take it to any ground point on the body/chassis (don't ground it back to the GECM) and the motor activates to pop the boot lid.


Please post back if you try it and it works.

 

Doubt that would work as it is the solinoid motor that actuates the truck latch that is not working. No way to know if it is not getting a ground or the 12 volts it needs to work. Sorry, I am just not a fan of cutting wires. Not a fan of drilling holes either but it appears that it is just a poor design but if it is coming from a factory tech I have to belive they know what they are doing .

 

Emergency Boot Access

Thanks to Astromorg

 

Astromorgs comprehensive instructions / photos are easy to follow.

This modification from the UK appears to use the the same attachment point as the internal emergency release required in the USA.
I understand this modification does not work on earlier saloons ( prior to USA sales ?) which had no provision for the emergency release.
Estate versions have a different lock ?

I have just done this modification on my saloon and it is simply brilliant.
It did not take long to do and I am now relaxed about any future failure.
With a total cost of just a few pence/ few cents for a common plastic electrical tie why are you waiting?

A few comments on the task.

A T30 torx bit is needed. Access to the torx bolt nearest the release button is a little awkward with a ratchet. An extension bar would be useful.
When reassembling, put the plastic cover on the lock before the pull down is refitted as the pull down overlaps the lock cover.

Re my number plate fixing screws. I need to swop the cross head self tapping screws for ones with a simple slot. These will be easier to remove in an emergency. e.g. a manicure file.
I will look for something to attach to my house key ring for the task.

( I note than my lock has the Ford logo stamped on it)

 

take the bulds out

 

OK......This is what I did to 'rescue' my neighbor's golf clubs from the non-opening boot of his X-Type.
I lowered the rear armrest, cut the fabric that is exposed in the upper part of the arm rest's bay and pushed the boot's interior carpet part way into the boot cavity. I then fabricated a tool from an old umbrella shaft, a pegboard hook, and a length of duct tape. With the aid of a flashlight, I fished the tool into the boot, grabbed the emergency release handle with the tool, and gave everything a gentle tug. The lid opened and my position as the neighborhood's head redneck/shadetree automotive engineer was reconfirmed. I hope this works. Cheers, Andy

 

I like your method for the USA members. A very neat idea.

Unfortunately the UK X-Type does not have an emergency release handle so we need to plan ahead or suffer.

 

>Unfortunately the UK X-Type does not have an emergency release handle

That's because Brits are not silly enough to get locked in their own trunks...
================================================
Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

 

Reminds me of the 'Remove infant before Folding' label on pushchairs.

 

The key to the final part of the emergency boot (trunk) release modification.

My home made screw driver has been made by taking a a simple flat bladed steel ( no grooves) blank key and filing the end to fit the screws.
This now lives on my "house keys" key ring.

I certainly got some strange looks from the locksmith when I first asked for “a blank key” ( and no cutting required).
Followed by “Can I see what types you have?”

Some further borrowed points ( with a little editing )

If the doors are locked and battery is not flat.

http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/key-advice-6612.html
The recovery company pumped open the gap in the top left hand corner of the boot, pulled through the wiring loom with a hook,
cut a slice in the sleeve to reveal the wires, stuck his spike in the yellow wire and pop the boot opened.
You can also get the wiring loom through a little hole behind the number plate.
( no more information about this)

If the doors do open but boot will not and the battery is not flat.

http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/boot-lock-emergency-release-6671.html

If you take IP5 pin 16 to ground then your boot will open automatically.
IP5 is the large brown connector that goes into the general electronic module
(i.e. the main car brain) that sits behind your instrument panel.
It will be a twenty minute trim removal job to get the instrument panel out
and take that pin to ground. If it happens again in the future and you can't get
to your spare key then that may be a quicker solution than removing the rear seats.
(BTW, you should be able to disable the alarm very quickly by loosening the lower two screws
on the passenger side front wheel arch liner and unplugging the alarm sounder that sits behind it.
Some markets have secondary sounders though... not sure if that would work then.)

If you are really worried about not having a cabin boot release then connect a small tactile switch between IP5-16
and any convenient ground point and mount it in the top of the driver foot well near to the OBDII connector.

Later info:-
The good news is that you do not need to dismantle any of the dash to do it.
You can access the GECM easily by popping out the cubby hole by the driver’s knee.
The cable you need to cut into is the blue wire on pin 16 on the brown connector on the GECM.
Just splice a new wire into it and take it to any ground point on the body/chassis (don't ground it back to the GECM)
and the motor activates to pop the trunk lid. I've tried it with a bare-ended fly lead
and did it half a dozen times to check it out.

Note: I would recommend disconnecting the battery when splicing into the cable to prevent any accidental damage to the computer.

I bought a cabin boot release switch from a Ford Fiesta and will mount it in the lower A pillar trim
next to the inertia switch. It has four tab connectors on it - 2 for the switch, and 2 for a 10-12V dimmer controlled lamp circuit.
I will connect it in to pin 1 of the lighting control switch (IP17) and take the other end to ground.
Then you can control the brightness of the switch using the dimmer knob on the car.
The switch could also be mounted behind the indicator stalk next to the small vent,
but that would mean removing the dash.

These ideas will still not solve an electric malfunction of the boot lock.

 

Merry Christmas to everyone at Jaguar Forums and thank you all for your knowledge and assistance with my trunk release issue.

I would like to update all of those who have run into this problem with your X-type. With all of the suggestions I received, I did not want to cut in to my jag, remove the rear seats, which is no easy task, or do any re-wiring if at all possible.

You might want to try this process in the following order (rather than going backwards as we did to troubleshoot the trunk release problem).

First of all, we contacted our local auto dismantle company to see if they had a 2002 X-type. They had a 2003 X-type in their yard. The trunk actuator works on both 2002 and 2003 models. We purchased it to see if that was the problem. After the new/used actuator was replaced, the trunk release still would not open. Then I called back to get the toggle switch for the trunk release. Once that was replaced with the original toggle switch, the actuator sounded stronger and the trunk opened but not consistently.

Bottom line, this is where we are to date:

1. The toggle switch to the trunk release was replaced with a used one from an auto dismantle company from a 2003 (rather than 2002) X-type. It works!

2. After discovering the trunk actuator wasn't the main issue, we left the old actuator on the trunk and now I have a reserve one just in case (it was only $37.00, so I will simply keep it).

3. It appears a thin plastic that surrounds the metal part that locks on to the actuator when shut, broke off and we think that is why it doesn't close consistently. We placed a piece of metal tape around it for now until I can replace that part as well. It works!

4. Until we get the trunk release to open consistently, we have rigged a small rope tied to the emergency trunk release inside that is then kept outside of the trunk when closed and then tucked out of site so I can pull the rope when I need to access the trunk manually. Hopefully this will be a temporary fix.

Still working on the lights (no high beams / no fog lights / outside blinkers don't work). Onward and forward the saga continues.

 

Re my earlier post
Task now completed.
I have found the perfect self taping screws and a simple blank key.
In the photo, the screw on the left is the original cross head and the pack contains, as the label says, stainless steel "Pan head" self tap screws.
The beauty of the screws is the large slot for easy access.
The key shaped screwdriver only needed a small amount of filing which was simple.

So the whole emergency access to the boot/trunk project is now totally completed and I have no more concerns about getting to the contents.

With the winter season it is even more important that I have access to my emergency kit.

I bought the screws in a boat spares shop for just over a UK pound.

The whole job cost so little and was so easy it still makes me smile.

 

US spec car.
I took my release handle off but left the cable attached to the locking mechanism. I fitted a six inch tie to the end of the cable and poked it through one of the unused holes under my tag. I keep a small screwdriver in the glovebox so if my trunk lock gives up I can remove my tag and pull the small plastic cable. It works famously!
Just told my kids not to play Hide-and-Seek in my trunk.

 

Consider what happens when a zillion miles from home at a lovely remote spot and you shut your keys in the boot/trunk.

Your reply ? ....censored