x-type 2.0 v6 engine dropouts/stutters
#1
x-type 2.0 v6 engine dropouts/stutters
Hello Experts,
I found your forum and hopefully you can help me. My 2002 x-type 2.0 V6 starts normal and runs fine but since 2 weeks sometimes the engine have a few seconds dropouts during driving! Lastweek also the check engine sign came up. I had the jag by a jag dealer but they found nothing - cleared only some errorcodes.
Today my dad drove the car and he had 5 times enigine dropouts - and also he mentioned the sound is not `round enough for 6 cyl.`After 2 hours break he drove again and everything was ok!
I read several forums but I want to know if someone had the same engine problems and what was the reason ?
(sorry for my bad english , I´m form austria)
Kind regards
Alex
I found your forum and hopefully you can help me. My 2002 x-type 2.0 V6 starts normal and runs fine but since 2 weeks sometimes the engine have a few seconds dropouts during driving! Lastweek also the check engine sign came up. I had the jag by a jag dealer but they found nothing - cleared only some errorcodes.
Today my dad drove the car and he had 5 times enigine dropouts - and also he mentioned the sound is not `round enough for 6 cyl.`After 2 hours break he drove again and everything was ok!
I read several forums but I want to know if someone had the same engine problems and what was the reason ?
(sorry for my bad english , I´m form austria)
Kind regards
Alex
#3
RE: x-type 2.0 v6 engine dropouts/stutters
It might not be this but it only takes a minute to check.
Remove the engine cover (3 screws).
Check under the 7" air pipe that goes from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold.
These have a tendancy to split (mine did the other week) and the rough running, intermittent 3000rpm limit and terrible mpg werer cured.
Cost £5.30 for a new pipe.
Remove the engine cover (3 screws).
Check under the 7" air pipe that goes from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold.
These have a tendancy to split (mine did the other week) and the rough running, intermittent 3000rpm limit and terrible mpg werer cured.
Cost £5.30 for a new pipe.
The following 2 users liked this post by BuckMR2:
Bruce in North Dakota (08-09-2014),
JagXster (01-18-2014)
#4
RE: x-type 2.0 v6 engine dropouts/stutters
Hello again,
yes , you were right ! I had also a little hole in the tube. I fixed it temporarly. It seemes to be better , also the engine light went off after some miles. Thanks for the nice drawing. I willl do some testdrives ;-)
Kind regards
Alex
yes , you were right ! I had also a little hole in the tube. I fixed it temporarly. It seemes to be better , also the engine light went off after some miles. Thanks for the nice drawing. I willl do some testdrives ;-)
Kind regards
Alex
#5
RE: x-type 2.0 v6 engine dropouts/stutters
Glad it sorted it for now.
The engine lightgoing out indicates the problem is fixed and air is not leaking into the system.
However the temp repairmay notlast too long (some people report around a month) as there is some oil in the breather pipe which will cause it to deteriorate again.
The new pipe I bought from the dealerlooks a much stronger and sturdier design so should last a lot longer.
The engine lightgoing out indicates the problem is fixed and air is not leaking into the system.
However the temp repairmay notlast too long (some people report around a month) as there is some oil in the breather pipe which will cause it to deteriorate again.
The new pipe I bought from the dealerlooks a much stronger and sturdier design so should last a lot longer.
#7
Hi Buck,
I am new to this forum. I just bought a 2007 X Type, 3.0 AWD and am having the same problem. The engine revs normally when in P but when I am accelerating or cruising the engine stutters every once in a while. Then the check engine light came on. I tried following your instructions on checking the pipe for a hole but I am not sure that I am looking at the right pipe. On my engine it seems to be a rubber hose. Here is a picture of the engine and I am talking about the black hose on the left. Is that what I should be checking?
Thanks
I am new to this forum. I just bought a 2007 X Type, 3.0 AWD and am having the same problem. The engine revs normally when in P but when I am accelerating or cruising the engine stutters every once in a while. Then the check engine light came on. I tried following your instructions on checking the pipe for a hole but I am not sure that I am looking at the right pipe. On my engine it seems to be a rubber hose. Here is a picture of the engine and I am talking about the black hose on the left. Is that what I should be checking?
Thanks
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#8
That is the correct hose to check. However, the one you have is the newer version of the hose that is much stronger, so probably not the cause of your issue. Best thing is to have the codes read and post them here or do a search of the code numbers. I'm sure you can get to the bottom of your issue and get your car back to running normal again.
#9
Outstanding !!!!
It might not be this but it only takes a minute to check.
Remove the engine cover (3 screws).
Check under the 7" air pipe that goes from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold.
These have a tendancy to split (mine did the other week) and the rough running, intermittent 3000rpm limit and terrible mpg werer cured.
Cost £5.30 for a new pipe.
Remove the engine cover (3 screws).
Check under the 7" air pipe that goes from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold.
These have a tendancy to split (mine did the other week) and the rough running, intermittent 3000rpm limit and terrible mpg werer cured.
Cost £5.30 for a new pipe.
#10
I am glad that someone benefited from Buck's post today! On another note I just bought a Bluetooth diagnostic tool and the code that came up was P2635. Looks like a fuel pump issue so I will be reading up on that! There you go, stuttering can be caused by the ruptured pipe that Buck mentions as well as an under performing fuel pump.
The following users liked this post:
00franky00 (08-07-2014)
#11
St,st,stuttering.. .. .. ..!
My wife's 05 Jag X-Type 3.0 has been doing the stuttering on heavy throttle the last 3 winters. In the summer the eng. light and the problem goes away until the weather get cold again. I have checked the PCV tube and is seems to be in good shape. The check valve on the vacuum line leading to the brake booster was leaking a considerable amount of vacuum. So much so that if I ran my fingers along the back of the check valve, you could hear the hissing change. I went to a local salvage yard and found no suitable Jag replacement so I improvised with a valve from a BMW or Honda. I used a couple of spliced vacuum line pieces and a few clamps and put it back together. This was done in 4 degree cold. It worked like a charm for a night and the stutter has returned along with more vacuum leaks in the area I rigged. This winter has been brutal for doing anything outside and we are putting up with the stutter until I can facilitate a permanent repair. I believe I have the problem in my sights and will knock this off my to-do list very soon!
#12
The two round devices on the left of the intake manifold.
While inspecting my wife's Jag today, I noticed for the first time vacuum leaking from the two black round devices plugged in on the left side of the intake manifold. I think I've seen others post about these being the reason for their Jag stuttering on acceleration. What are these called and are the "o" rings available at local parts outlets or will I have to order them? I'm sure if I can stop these vacuum leaks this Jag will once again run the way it should.
#13
IMT or IAC "O" rings.
After some checking I've determined that these IAC (Intake Air Control) devices need new seals to stop the vacuum leaks causing a lean condition and the computer responding with "limp home" mode. I ordered them from Discount Auto Parts Online -- PartsGeek.com - Domestic & Import Auto Parts Warehouse and they cost about $5.86 each. When they get here I will take pictures and post them here with the results (hopefully the Check Engine Light will go out while it's still cold out).
The following users liked this post:
00franky00 (08-07-2014)
#15
No issues with the fuel pump whatsoever. The O-rings sealed the vacuum leaks on the manifold and the problem was solved completely. I posted the repair on another thread on this site with pictures. I will find that and link it here for people to see. Click the following:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-113287/
That will link you to the other thread.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-113287/
That will link you to the other thread.
Last edited by specrocz; 08-08-2014 at 12:31 PM.
#16
Amber light under tachometer and cruise not available
Someone PLEASE help me. I'm just a girl here ad have no idea where to start with all the info on here. My 2002 Jaguar X-Type has recently started doing something weird. The amber light flashes along with cruise not available. Both go on and off while driving ad sometimes I get a lurch. Took it to a local import car repair shop ad they read the codes. SO MANY! They were: P0333, P0420, P0430, P0835, P1582, P0300, 301,302,303,304,305,306, P1313, P1314, P1316, P0057 ad P1647!! I'm freaking out! Car doesn't do it all the time. The lights will flash alot of times and car seems to be running fine. When it does lurch it is only for a few seconds. Mechanic seems to think it might be Cat converter going bad or fuel pump going out. Doesn't the yellow light have something to do with the transmission. Please help. This is my only mode of transportation and I am afraid of what this might mean or cost. Thank you guys!!
#17
Still an issue?
Hi Shanc2223,
Not sure if you have been waiting patiently for a reply or solved your problems with the Jag, but I'll update this thread for anyone else looking.
Codes:
P0333 - Knock Sensor(s) (located on the top of each bank on the left side if you're looking at the windshield from the front)
P0420 - Means poor catalyst response - likely O2 Sensor on Bank 1 needs to be replaced (firewall side)
P0430 - Means poor catalyst response - likely O2 Sensor on Bank 2 needs to be replaced (facing grill)
P0835 - Clutch Pedal switch (Maybe pedal assembly???)
P1582 - Electronic throttle Monitor (likely a result of the code above)
P0300 - Random Cylinder Misfire
P0301 thru 06 - These are per cylinder misfire codes and likely spark plugs or coils. (i.e 0301 - cylinder #1)
P1313 - Result of misfires on Bank 1 (One or all cylinders are misfiring)
P1314 - Result of misfires on Bank 2 (One or all cylinders are misfiring)
P1316 - Excessive Misfire - related to the two above and P0301-P0306
P0057 - O2 Sensors on one of the Banks (replace O2 sensors (4 total)
P1647 - O2 Sensors on one of the Banks (replace O2 sensors (4 total)
What does all of this mean? Replace your Spark Plugs and Coils and see what you get.
The thing is that when having the manifold off (big silver thing on the top of the engine) it's also the best time to get access to a few of the O2 sensors. But they aren't easy to replace so before paying someone to do it, or having your significant other tear apart more of the engine to get to them, you might just try changing the Spark Plugs and Coils to see what you get. I'd bet most all of those codes will disappear since they are all related to the same issue.
Not sure if you have been waiting patiently for a reply or solved your problems with the Jag, but I'll update this thread for anyone else looking.
Codes:
P0333 - Knock Sensor(s) (located on the top of each bank on the left side if you're looking at the windshield from the front)
P0420 - Means poor catalyst response - likely O2 Sensor on Bank 1 needs to be replaced (firewall side)
P0430 - Means poor catalyst response - likely O2 Sensor on Bank 2 needs to be replaced (facing grill)
P0835 - Clutch Pedal switch (Maybe pedal assembly???)
P1582 - Electronic throttle Monitor (likely a result of the code above)
P0300 - Random Cylinder Misfire
P0301 thru 06 - These are per cylinder misfire codes and likely spark plugs or coils. (i.e 0301 - cylinder #1)
P1313 - Result of misfires on Bank 1 (One or all cylinders are misfiring)
P1314 - Result of misfires on Bank 2 (One or all cylinders are misfiring)
P1316 - Excessive Misfire - related to the two above and P0301-P0306
P0057 - O2 Sensors on one of the Banks (replace O2 sensors (4 total)
P1647 - O2 Sensors on one of the Banks (replace O2 sensors (4 total)
What does all of this mean? Replace your Spark Plugs and Coils and see what you get.
The thing is that when having the manifold off (big silver thing on the top of the engine) it's also the best time to get access to a few of the O2 sensors. But they aren't easy to replace so before paying someone to do it, or having your significant other tear apart more of the engine to get to them, you might just try changing the Spark Plugs and Coils to see what you get. I'd bet most all of those codes will disappear since they are all related to the same issue.
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