X-Type faults that lie in wait for new owners
#61
04-17-2014, 07:46 PM
Short update.
Since the last service the car is running noticeably better. My partner reports far less vibration in the back during hard acceleration, and fuel consumption has improved around town from 17 mpg to 20. Even the estimated tank range has gone up from about 255 to 285 miles.
The silicone rubber air seals that came off the air intake manifold were orange.
I may be wrong but the latest ones are green, and have been since about 2007.
I reckon that they were the original factory fitted ones. So much for the main dealer servicing.
It seems highly likely that they were leaking air, that and the very faint suggestion of a missfire whilst driving also makes me conclude that the last garage did not change the plugs.
So if your motor seems to thrive on revs but has no guts, and you can detect, it's almost like a silent popping, from the engine whilst under load, I would strongly suggest a plug and seal change, and ask to see the plugs after, and the intake seals.
Also a lot of so called Jag specialists (and I've met a few) seem to know squat about the X-Type. You may be better off going to someone who has experience in working on Fords.
Well Mondeos at least.
Since the last service the car is running noticeably better. My partner reports far less vibration in the back during hard acceleration, and fuel consumption has improved around town from 17 mpg to 20. Even the estimated tank range has gone up from about 255 to 285 miles.
The silicone rubber air seals that came off the air intake manifold were orange.
I may be wrong but the latest ones are green, and have been since about 2007.
I reckon that they were the original factory fitted ones. So much for the main dealer servicing.
It seems highly likely that they were leaking air, that and the very faint suggestion of a missfire whilst driving also makes me conclude that the last garage did not change the plugs.
So if your motor seems to thrive on revs but has no guts, and you can detect, it's almost like a silent popping, from the engine whilst under load, I would strongly suggest a plug and seal change, and ask to see the plugs after, and the intake seals.
Also a lot of so called Jag specialists (and I've met a few) seem to know squat about the X-Type. You may be better off going to someone who has experience in working on Fords.
Well Mondeos at least.
The following users liked this post:
Stuart Beattie (04-18-2014)
#62
04-18-2014, 12:11 AM
Junior Member
x type faults
Was reading this forum and saw the lug nut's problems, I have a 2000 lincoln ls this was ford's version of the s type jag, It had the same aluminum or steel cap over the lug nut, repair was the lug nut from a toyota with the same thread count and size, this was one piece, but it did require a larger wrench. I carry a four way so that is not a problem. Why was I reading the forum, I bought a 03 X type, and there are some speaker problems.
#63
04-18-2014, 03:20 AM
#64
04-18-2014, 04:37 AM
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Skipton, North Yorkshire, England
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Hi PapaDave67,
If you pop over to New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
You can introduce yourself.
Welcome to the forum you will get plenty advice from the guys here, espeially Thermo and Anditover here.
If you edit your signature, you can add the year model and spec of your X Type so other members can identify and help you, GOOD LUCK!!!
Regards, Stu
If you pop over to New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
You can introduce yourself.
Welcome to the forum you will get plenty advice from the guys here, espeially Thermo and Anditover here.
If you edit your signature, you can add the year model and spec of your X Type so other members can identify and help you, GOOD LUCK!!!
Regards, Stu
#65
04-20-2014, 09:20 PM
Junior Member
#66
05-11-2014, 07:37 PM
Tank Range
The old bus is going in the garage on Wednesday to get the air-con topped up. We'll see then what, if any loss there's been in the last 13 months.
Meanwhile fuel consumption has sunk back down to 17 mpg. With projected tank range of 221 miles.
I think that either the last tank of fuel was either a particularly good vintage, or this latest dose is manky old maidens water. As sold by Tesco.
Meanwhile fuel consumption has sunk back down to 17 mpg. With projected tank range of 221 miles.
I think that either the last tank of fuel was either a particularly good vintage, or this latest dose is manky old maidens water. As sold by Tesco.
#67
05-12-2014, 07:30 PM
And now, wouldn't you flaming believe it, the "fixed" handbrake has stopped working again.
It felt weak but still just held the car on 4 clicks whilst in drive this afternoon on the way to work. Now it won't hold the car in neutral on a shallow slope.
And talking of clicks, the J gate started clicking again when the brake is applied while driving. Not every time, but at least I know what to do.
My Celicas (and I had three) were never this much trouble.
It felt weak but still just held the car on 4 clicks whilst in drive this afternoon on the way to work. Now it won't hold the car in neutral on a shallow slope.
And talking of clicks, the J gate started clicking again when the brake is applied while driving. Not every time, but at least I know what to do.
My Celicas (and I had three) were never this much trouble.
#68
07-05-2014, 09:50 AM
My X
As a new first time owner it's been a steep learning curve.
Never have I owned a 21st Century car with so many inherent faults, and yet I reckon that there is a good car in there somewhere trying to get out.
First thing: the car is a 42,000 mile 3.0 X-Type SE from 2001.
Extras: touch screen sat nav, Xenon dipped beam lights, reverse sensors, self folding mirrors.
As it is intended as a family car (all wheel drive, loads of air-bags, big boot, easy to drive auto) my first priority was a major service and general health check.
At 12 years old it is advisable to change the fluid in the transfer box, mine hadn't leaked, but it had been sat around for over a decade, new brake pads and new rear brake discs were installed (although I don't think it needed discs, but the new ones were only £20 each).
When checking out a potential X-Type, newbies (including me) should note the hand brake on these seems to come up way too far, some don't even hold the car stationary fin drive, and to make matters worse, its not a drum/disc combo, the handbrake grips the disc. Or rather it should, problem is the standard cable seems a tad too long, the auto adjust mechanism never quite catches up with the slack, and Ford/Jaguar never thought to add a threaded adjuster.
Have a look at the battery too, if its a Bosch 96 good, if the black battery box is held together with zip ties, and the battery held down with more of the same, then that would be bad.
A new battery even from somewhere like Partco costs about £85 new battery struts and cross piece are about £15 in total, but genuine m6 nuts are £6 EACH.
If you go in to settings menu on sat nav, you can find out what year disc you have, mine was the original 2001 version, the seller lied to me, said it had been updated.
Easy Nav UK sent me a 2011-12 version for under £10, arrived in less than 48 hours and worked perfectly (Jaguar wanted £170 for the same DVD).
When checking over a Jag, remember to ask for the audio code too. I didn't, that cost me £15 from X-Type Spares in Newcastle UK, a great source of cheap parts, with whom I am becoming very well acquainted...
Other faults, oh yes, seems a lot of them, incl mine, suffer from rust along the edges of the bonnet, that will not be a cheap fix,. It appears as bubbles under the paint, I imagine there is a welded seam there.
The hood catch always seems to look scabby. Luckily its a very easy fix, it is held on by 6 easy to see bolts, there is a little plastic clip that slides off and all I did was attack the rust and loose paint with a wire brush, then a bit of battery acid to clean out the pitting, then after a good rinse and a wipe over with thinners, apply Hammerite Smooth Black.
Looks great, I don't know why everybody else doesn't do it.
Now another common characteristic is clicking from the J-Gate, a brilliant thread already exists here that deals with that by Cats Paws. It's actually quite cheap to fix with micro switches available from Maplins, trouble is Jaguar used two different types simultaneously, one with a button, one with a lever, and Jaguar will only sell you the whole assembly for £260 plus tax, plus labour. Basically if whilst driving you release the foot brake and hear a click, it's a solenoid operating, it thinks you're still in PARK. It's so common one jag specialist thought it was supposed to do it.
Oh by the way, the micro switches cost £2.10.
Now sometimes locking the doors can be hit and miss. The front passenger door particularly didn't want to unlock on the button when all the rest were fine. There is a rotating catch in the door, sometimes it sticks a bit, a good squirt of 3 in 1 with PTFE has cured that.
Also, the doors didn't always lock. That was a real head ache, I had to manually use the driver's door key hole.
Then I noticed that the "gate" or dust cover on the ignition lock wasn't closing when the key was removed. That again seems to be another unique Jag trait, tried graphite spray, gt85, and WD40 to get that to close, but got there in the end.
When you use the screen washers, if you have Xenons you also squirt the lamps. Now sometimes the covers in the front bumper fall off. A good source is whccarparts on eBay, £27 painted and delivered is good value. Now actually fitting them was another headache. In the end I had the engine running, lights on, drivers door window open, pressed the washer button and legged it round the front before the buggers had a chance to retract. Luckily the cruciform clips were intact, but still the covers worked loose.
Arrrgh!
OK what else can go wrong.
Light failure. With Xenons its never simple, my local garage changed the bulb, a week later it stopped working again.
A quick lesson in how things work later and I ordered a new Ballast and Ignitor from eBay's Xelix Trading, £160 delivered, and about £200 cheaper than Jaguar for the exact same parts by the same manufacturer. You need Hella 35w Ballast 5DV 008 290-00, and Hella Ignitor D2S D2R 5DD 008 319-10.
And clips, oh yes, Xenons have automatic levellers attached to motors by flimsy little plastic clips that ham fisted mechanics will helpfully snap. From eBay again I got some reinforced plastic ones for £36, they fit fine, and may outlast my ownership the way things are going...
Latest thing is wheel nuts. Jaguar went with a two part assembly. A solid nut encased in a shiny metal shell. Looks good until you use the cheap tyre iron supplied to get one off. You need a good 19mm hex socket you do.
Otherwise the shell made of shiny I don't know what, can become detached from the main body, at first it just rattles, and can be moved on the wheel by hand, then it gets crumpled by pneumatic spanners wielded by tyre changing specialists who will tell you it was like that before they even touched a bolt. Then it just spins on the bolt as you try to undo it, and then, if you are stuck at the side of the road, in the rain/snow, then you weep and curse Jaguar for being so stupid.
I've just ordered a full set of 20 from X-Type parts.
Just waiting for the anti roll bar to start knocking.
And the auto box is doing strange things, shifting down just a bit tool eagerly.
I'll keep you posted on whether that's another common foible.
Thanks for reading hope it doesn't put you off, it may help if you are mad...
Never have I owned a 21st Century car with so many inherent faults, and yet I reckon that there is a good car in there somewhere trying to get out.
First thing: the car is a 42,000 mile 3.0 X-Type SE from 2001.
Extras: touch screen sat nav, Xenon dipped beam lights, reverse sensors, self folding mirrors.
As it is intended as a family car (all wheel drive, loads of air-bags, big boot, easy to drive auto) my first priority was a major service and general health check.
At 12 years old it is advisable to change the fluid in the transfer box, mine hadn't leaked, but it had been sat around for over a decade, new brake pads and new rear brake discs were installed (although I don't think it needed discs, but the new ones were only £20 each).
When checking out a potential X-Type, newbies (including me) should note the hand brake on these seems to come up way too far, some don't even hold the car stationary fin drive, and to make matters worse, its not a drum/disc combo, the handbrake grips the disc. Or rather it should, problem is the standard cable seems a tad too long, the auto adjust mechanism never quite catches up with the slack, and Ford/Jaguar never thought to add a threaded adjuster.
Have a look at the battery too, if its a Bosch 96 good, if the black battery box is held together with zip ties, and the battery held down with more of the same, then that would be bad.
A new battery even from somewhere like Partco costs about £85 new battery struts and cross piece are about £15 in total, but genuine m6 nuts are £6 EACH.
If you go in to settings menu on sat nav, you can find out what year disc you have, mine was the original 2001 version, the seller lied to me, said it had been updated.
Easy Nav UK sent me a 2011-12 version for under £10, arrived in less than 48 hours and worked perfectly (Jaguar wanted £170 for the same DVD).
When checking over a Jag, remember to ask for the audio code too. I didn't, that cost me £15 from X-Type Spares in Newcastle UK, a great source of cheap parts, with whom I am becoming very well acquainted...
Other faults, oh yes, seems a lot of them, incl mine, suffer from rust along the edges of the bonnet, that will not be a cheap fix,. It appears as bubbles under the paint, I imagine there is a welded seam there.
The hood catch always seems to look scabby. Luckily its a very easy fix, it is held on by 6 easy to see bolts, there is a little plastic clip that slides off and all I did was attack the rust and loose paint with a wire brush, then a bit of battery acid to clean out the pitting, then after a good rinse and a wipe over with thinners, apply Hammerite Smooth Black.
Looks great, I don't know why everybody else doesn't do it.
Now another common characteristic is clicking from the J-Gate, a brilliant thread already exists here that deals with that by Cats Paws. It's actually quite cheap to fix with micro switches available from Maplins, trouble is Jaguar used two different types simultaneously, one with a button, one with a lever, and Jaguar will only sell you the whole assembly for £260 plus tax, plus labour. Basically if whilst driving you release the foot brake and hear a click, it's a solenoid operating, it thinks you're still in PARK. It's so common one jag specialist thought it was supposed to do it.
Oh by the way, the micro switches cost £2.10.
Now sometimes locking the doors can be hit and miss. The front passenger door particularly didn't want to unlock on the button when all the rest were fine. There is a rotating catch in the door, sometimes it sticks a bit, a good squirt of 3 in 1 with PTFE has cured that.
Also, the doors didn't always lock. That was a real head ache, I had to manually use the driver's door key hole.
Then I noticed that the "gate" or dust cover on the ignition lock wasn't closing when the key was removed. That again seems to be another unique Jag trait, tried graphite spray, gt85, and WD40 to get that to close, but got there in the end.
When you use the screen washers, if you have Xenons you also squirt the lamps. Now sometimes the covers in the front bumper fall off. A good source is whccarparts on eBay, £27 painted and delivered is good value. Now actually fitting them was another headache. In the end I had the engine running, lights on, drivers door window open, pressed the washer button and legged it round the front before the buggers had a chance to retract. Luckily the cruciform clips were intact, but still the covers worked loose.
Arrrgh!
OK what else can go wrong.
Light failure. With Xenons its never simple, my local garage changed the bulb, a week later it stopped working again.
A quick lesson in how things work later and I ordered a new Ballast and Ignitor from eBay's Xelix Trading, £160 delivered, and about £200 cheaper than Jaguar for the exact same parts by the same manufacturer. You need Hella 35w Ballast 5DV 008 290-00, and Hella Ignitor D2S D2R 5DD 008 319-10.
And clips, oh yes, Xenons have automatic levellers attached to motors by flimsy little plastic clips that ham fisted mechanics will helpfully snap. From eBay again I got some reinforced plastic ones for £36, they fit fine, and may outlast my ownership the way things are going...
Latest thing is wheel nuts. Jaguar went with a two part assembly. A solid nut encased in a shiny metal shell. Looks good until you use the cheap tyre iron supplied to get one off. You need a good 19mm hex socket you do.
Otherwise the shell made of shiny I don't know what, can become detached from the main body, at first it just rattles, and can be moved on the wheel by hand, then it gets crumpled by pneumatic spanners wielded by tyre changing specialists who will tell you it was like that before they even touched a bolt. Then it just spins on the bolt as you try to undo it, and then, if you are stuck at the side of the road, in the rain/snow, then you weep and curse Jaguar for being so stupid.
I've just ordered a full set of 20 from X-Type parts.
Just waiting for the anti roll bar to start knocking.
And the auto box is doing strange things, shifting down just a bit tool eagerly.
I'll keep you posted on whether that's another common foible.
Thanks for reading hope it doesn't put you off, it may help if you are mad...
According to my service manual the tranny (automatic) and the transfer case fluids should not be changed unless a repair is done.
#69
07-05-2014, 11:00 AM
Many of us doubt the so-called "lifetime fluids" and "sealed for life" phrase. There are several threads with good documentation regarding tranny, TC and rear differential fluid changes/services.
#70
07-08-2014, 05:01 AM
Welcome aboard Adam.
The concensus on Jag auto boxes seems to be, on low mileage cars like yours, do a full fluid change via the in out pipes for the oil cooler at a transmission specialist before the fluid has had a chance to burn or create potentially disastrous deposits in the galleries that could cause chaos if dislodged by for example a transmission fluid change..
That's the paradox. Up to about 50,000 miles of not too hard driving, it's probably ok, after that you pays your money and you takes your choice.
And if you have a high mileage car that drives fine but you're sure hasn't had a fluid change, fight your instinct and do not change it. By then it's probably too late, enjoy it for as long as you can, which may be quite a long time, but don't disturb the crud in the box that is safely out of the way in a gooey recess.
And don't let a Jag dealer anywhere near the transmission, their method only drains about 2 thirds of the old fluid then tops it up, but for doing half the job, you'll get charged double the price. And use Dexron 6.
Anything less and you'll be stuffed.
My car is having a new handbrake next week. Bought from a dealer, it comes with a cable already attached. So now I've got a spare (wrong colour) handbrake and new cable. Hopefully not for long, they're on ebay for a tenner if anyone wants a set.
Can't be arsed to fix the click in the lever, and had a reverse park sensor fail last month, ordered a replacement, it arrived last Thursday, and the following day, the sensors started working again (after about 3 weeks). Luckily I didn't pay Jaguar prices.
My car has a sick sense of humour.
The concensus on Jag auto boxes seems to be, on low mileage cars like yours, do a full fluid change via the in out pipes for the oil cooler at a transmission specialist before the fluid has had a chance to burn or create potentially disastrous deposits in the galleries that could cause chaos if dislodged by for example a transmission fluid change..
That's the paradox. Up to about 50,000 miles of not too hard driving, it's probably ok, after that you pays your money and you takes your choice.
And if you have a high mileage car that drives fine but you're sure hasn't had a fluid change, fight your instinct and do not change it. By then it's probably too late, enjoy it for as long as you can, which may be quite a long time, but don't disturb the crud in the box that is safely out of the way in a gooey recess.
And don't let a Jag dealer anywhere near the transmission, their method only drains about 2 thirds of the old fluid then tops it up, but for doing half the job, you'll get charged double the price. And use Dexron 6.
Anything less and you'll be stuffed.
My car is having a new handbrake next week. Bought from a dealer, it comes with a cable already attached. So now I've got a spare (wrong colour) handbrake and new cable. Hopefully not for long, they're on ebay for a tenner if anyone wants a set.
Can't be arsed to fix the click in the lever, and had a reverse park sensor fail last month, ordered a replacement, it arrived last Thursday, and the following day, the sensors started working again (after about 3 weeks). Luckily I didn't pay Jaguar prices.
My car has a sick sense of humour.
#71
09-26-2014, 05:26 PM
Well the handbrake lever is now working perfectly.
Not too high, and starts gripping at 2 clicks.
That's the good news.
Bad news is a whine from the rear drivers side wheel.
Subject to confirmation, I reckon it's a wheel bearing. My local mechanic said he thought it could be a noisy tyre, but they are all nearly new and low mileage, and the noise has only started in the past month.
Also some little **** (who my step son saw through his bedroom window but did nothing to stop! !) Has pulled off the jaguar head button for the boot (trunk).
Luckily no other damage was done, but you can't get the growling jag button by itself, you have to get the whole switch assembly, and that is £47.50 new from a dealer.
Even second hand on ebay, for one which isn't scratched to hell, you're looking at £20.
And mine was pristine, plus I've just had the back end resprayed after my bump last Christmas. The irony is, if I do end up buying a new one, I'll have to prize the button off that, and reattach it to the bare button, either that or I dismantle the back lid just to fit a switch.
God knows what the little git intends to do with a plastic disc the size of a dollar coin, choke on it is my hope...
Not too high, and starts gripping at 2 clicks.
That's the good news.
Bad news is a whine from the rear drivers side wheel.
Subject to confirmation, I reckon it's a wheel bearing. My local mechanic said he thought it could be a noisy tyre, but they are all nearly new and low mileage, and the noise has only started in the past month.
Also some little **** (who my step son saw through his bedroom window but did nothing to stop! !) Has pulled off the jaguar head button for the boot (trunk).
Luckily no other damage was done, but you can't get the growling jag button by itself, you have to get the whole switch assembly, and that is £47.50 new from a dealer.
Even second hand on ebay, for one which isn't scratched to hell, you're looking at £20.
And mine was pristine, plus I've just had the back end resprayed after my bump last Christmas. The irony is, if I do end up buying a new one, I'll have to prize the button off that, and reattach it to the bare button, either that or I dismantle the back lid just to fit a switch.
God knows what the little git intends to do with a plastic disc the size of a dollar coin, choke on it is my hope...
#72
09-26-2014, 09:34 PM
Hey anditover.
The button on the boot. Is that the button that pops the boot? I have some of them but there is no cat head on them. Now your going to make me look for the head. Thanks. btw if you would like one I will be happy to send it over the pond. Not sure what shipping will be but it cant be much. Pm me and let me know
Thanks,
The Dr!
The button on the boot. Is that the button that pops the boot? I have some of them but there is no cat head on them. Now your going to make me look for the head. Thanks. btw if you would like one I will be happy to send it over the pond. Not sure what shipping will be but it cant be much. Pm me and let me know
Thanks,
The Dr!
The following users liked this post:
anditover (09-27-2014)
#73
10-07-2014, 02:25 AM
The car had its MOT (annual compulsory inspection) yesterday, and passed. However the front and rear drivers side wheel bearings were showing wear, the front is particularly noisy, so I've booked it in next week for that and a set of front brake pads.
Still got on going issues with the missing growler boot button.
I ordered one the week before last, with X-Type Parts and it still hasn't arrived. I lost patience after they never answered the phone or email, so I got in touch with their credit card merchant PayPal, and they gave me an immediate refund.
Turns out they're having a few issues with X-Type Parts, so just be careful.
But at least it would appear your money will be safe.
I may end up taking up an offer from a member to send a button, but I'll wait a bit longer.
Still got on going issues with the missing growler boot button.
I ordered one the week before last, with X-Type Parts and it still hasn't arrived. I lost patience after they never answered the phone or email, so I got in touch with their credit card merchant PayPal, and they gave me an immediate refund.
Turns out they're having a few issues with X-Type Parts, so just be careful.
But at least it would appear your money will be safe.
I may end up taking up an offer from a member to send a button, but I'll wait a bit longer.
#74
10-15-2014, 07:01 PM
I got the wheel bearing changed, and it's a lot quieter now, and it turned out that it didn't need front brake pads after all, there's about 10000 miles left on them, the MOT inspector was just being cautious!
But (there's always at least 2 buts), they reckoned that they weakened the threads of the tracking rod end, so they fitted a new one (and I looked under the car to ensure that they HAD) total cost £180;
my heater is acting up, I was chilly the other day, I set the interior temperature to 20°c, which should have been pleasant, and got a blast of freezing cold air up my trouser leg.
I suspect that a cabin temperature sensor somewhere has died.
If anyone else has experienced this goose pimple inducing phenomenon, I'd appreciate any pointers to show me where to start looking for the likely culprit.
And I've just spotted a common fault. The boot poppers on both sides (black spring loaded clips that nudge the trunk open when you press the button) are missing, snapped off.
I cannot for the life of me even remember if they were there before. But the boot/trunk doesn't seem to raise itself as much as I recall, so maybe I just never noticed these quiet, unsung heroes of leverage patiently lifting the lid for me?
Looking online, it appears they are always breaking, but are, for Jaguar, very cheap to replace.
I'm still hunting for a growler boot button. I've been offered one, but it's the wrong colour. The missing one was a deep green with (I think) a golden jaguar head. God only knows what the spotty youth that prized it off intended to do with it.
Stick it on his backside?
But (there's always at least 2 buts), they reckoned that they weakened the threads of the tracking rod end, so they fitted a new one (and I looked under the car to ensure that they HAD) total cost £180;
my heater is acting up, I was chilly the other day, I set the interior temperature to 20°c, which should have been pleasant, and got a blast of freezing cold air up my trouser leg.
I suspect that a cabin temperature sensor somewhere has died.
If anyone else has experienced this goose pimple inducing phenomenon, I'd appreciate any pointers to show me where to start looking for the likely culprit.
And I've just spotted a common fault. The boot poppers on both sides (black spring loaded clips that nudge the trunk open when you press the button) are missing, snapped off.
I cannot for the life of me even remember if they were there before. But the boot/trunk doesn't seem to raise itself as much as I recall, so maybe I just never noticed these quiet, unsung heroes of leverage patiently lifting the lid for me?
Looking online, it appears they are always breaking, but are, for Jaguar, very cheap to replace.
I'm still hunting for a growler boot button. I've been offered one, but it's the wrong colour. The missing one was a deep green with (I think) a golden jaguar head. God only knows what the spotty youth that prized it off intended to do with it.
Stick it on his backside?
#75
10-16-2014, 02:48 PM
My climate control is in good working order, but at a 20 degree setting , depending on cabin conditions it might start with a blast of cold air. Indeed, I find 20 a bit on the cool side anyway and normally run it at 22.
What happens if you set a higher temperature? Does it still blow cold? If so it might be a blend flap problem. Not that uncommon on older models.
The cabin temperature sensor is located behind the 1 inch square grill next to the steering column. A small fan sucks air in there and measures its temperature with a thermistor. You can tell if the fan's working as it will suck a piece of tissue paper and hold it against the grill.
What happens if you set a higher temperature? Does it still blow cold? If so it might be a blend flap problem. Not that uncommon on older models.
The cabin temperature sensor is located behind the 1 inch square grill next to the steering column. A small fan sucks air in there and measures its temperature with a thermistor. You can tell if the fan's working as it will suck a piece of tissue paper and hold it against the grill.
#76
10-16-2014, 05:20 PM
My climate control is in good working order, but at a 20 degree setting , depending on cabin conditions it might start with a blast of cold air. Indeed, I find 20 a bit on the cool side anyway and normally run it at 22.
What happens if you set a higher temperature? Does it still blow cold? If so it might be a blend flap problem. Not that uncommon on older models.
The cabin temperature sensor is located behind the 1 inch square grill next to the steering column. A small fan sucks air in there and measures its temperature with a thermistor. You can tell if the fan's working as it will suck a piece of tissue paper and hold it against the grill.
What happens if you set a higher temperature? Does it still blow cold? If so it might be a blend flap problem. Not that uncommon on older models.
The cabin temperature sensor is located behind the 1 inch square grill next to the steering column. A small fan sucks air in there and measures its temperature with a thermistor. You can tell if the fan's working as it will suck a piece of tissue paper and hold it against the grill.
The climate control seemed to be working this morning, I took it off auto and felt the air from the upper front vents at 21°c. Not balmy, but about right.
Yesterday and the day before, it seemed the only way to get any heat was to press the defrost windscreen function, even adjusting the cabin temp to 31° had little effect.
I'm hoping, that just like my rear parking sensor that fixed itself after I'd bought a replacement(!), that this is just a momentary hissy fit. With Winter just around the corner, I really can't be having no heat.
'Tried ordering the boot "poppers" online from a Jag parts specialist yesterday. I left a message accurately describing the poppers and their location, and also enquired about a boot (trunk) release growler button.
They emailed me back this afternoon asking for photos!!!!
The whole point of the order was that I DON'T HAVE THE PARTS. Unfortunately I have been busy working, so no time to reply. But they seem useless. I'll try again, but if they remain thick, I may name and shame.
It's raining in the UK, it's dull and our politicians are telling us that we have nothing to fear from ebola. (So that's all right then).
All I want, is for my Jag to stop thinking of ways of spending my money, and to finally finish off my KH250/350 project bike (bought in 1990 and still taunting me with unfulfilled promises of not breaking down for more than two hours).
I'll keep you posted.
#77
10-16-2014, 06:49 PM
Member
Hi anditover, scares me to think that one year down the line you're still fixing and patching bits and pieces! As a relatively new owner, of a 2.0 diesel X type, I'm a bit apprehensive as to what the future might bring. That said, I'm after falling head over heels in love with the the darn thing, the looks, the ride, the comfort.
Looks like I'm in it for the long haul however she treats me down the line!
Looks like I'm in it for the long haul however she treats me down the line!
#78
10-16-2014, 09:12 PM
Hi anditover, scares me to think that one year down the line you're still fixing and patching bits and pieces! As a relatively new owner, of a 2.0 diesel X type, I'm a bit apprehensive as to what the future might bring. That said, I'm after falling head over heels in love with the the darn thing, the looks, the ride, the comfort.
Looks like I'm in it for the long haul however she treats me down the line!
Looks like I'm in it for the long haul however she treats me down the line!
My wallet's never going to be the same again. 😢
It is frustrating, and I could have done without the minor vandalism.
And the duff handbrake design.
And that HID headlamp failure that cost a fortune.
But I'll tell you what, all the girls at work like it (not that I'm interested of course), and the next door neighbours' wife moaned to my missus that she'd tried in vain to get her Steve to buy her one (but he always goes for VWs). There's definitely something about them. I think you'll find the diesels are a bit more forgiving than the early petrol versions like mine.
Can't be any more thirsty that's for sure.
Cheers Barryo
#79
10-22-2014, 06:04 PM
Today I received and fitted a new pair of boot (trunk) actuators, or poppers.
I figured that with the weight of the boot resting on the lock mechanism, that might contribute to why so often the trunk fails to close properly.
So on they go.
I press the button.
And they make absolutely no bloody difference whatsoever.
I even got a torch and checked to see if they were being compressed when the lid closed, you know, to see if they were applying any leverage.
They were, and it didn't make a scrap of difference.
There's £16 gone that I could have spent on beer.
Also I ordered a new button to replace the vandalised one.
The new one that arrived is black, not green like the old one, so doesn't match any of the other badges on the car, so is going back.
Oh buttocks!!
There..sorry.
I figured that with the weight of the boot resting on the lock mechanism, that might contribute to why so often the trunk fails to close properly.
So on they go.
I press the button.
And they make absolutely no bloody difference whatsoever.
I even got a torch and checked to see if they were being compressed when the lid closed, you know, to see if they were applying any leverage.
They were, and it didn't make a scrap of difference.
There's £16 gone that I could have spent on beer.
Also I ordered a new button to replace the vandalised one.
The new one that arrived is black, not green like the old one, so doesn't match any of the other badges on the car, so is going back.
Oh buttocks!!
There..sorry.
#80
10-23-2014, 04:44 AM
Member
Lol, That made me smile this morning!
I'll have to sit down with a cup of tea some evening and read all of your posts start to finish, I didn't even realise that you had been vandalised!
I must say that since I bought the shiny black beast, I'm much more conscious of everything that moves outside, of any potential threat to the old girl.
I live in an private estate that up until recently was all but deserted until a few months back when the place was finished, landscaped and advertised.
The beginning of the end...............
Almost literally, from one week to the next, hordes of bespectacled be-gloved and be-bicycled kids started roaming the street with Hurley's (Irish sport which is a cross between soccer, hockey, baseball, rugby, tennis and boxing).
The houses don't actually have driveways, but rather parking "areas" outside. There is no vehicle privacy whatsoever. Last week I was in the kitchen making a cup of Coffee when I chanced to look out the window and saw a two or three year old literally climbing from the shiny-just-polished-bumper onto the shiny-just-polished-bonnet. Thank god for the panic function on our remotes, I'd say the poor kid wont be out of diapers until she turns 26, but I still feel justified in scaring the bejeezus out of her, given that she ignored all of the mud covered fords and Renaults on either side of the Jag.
It's got to the stage where I had to install an IP camera with the feed running live to my phone in order to keep an eye on it. It might sound silly or even paranoid but about two weeks before I bought the Jag and traded my 2001 Audi, which I always kept immaculate as well, I got up one morning to find a lovely scratch on the door, beautiful "bicycle pedal style and height" scratch.................. Had I not been about to trade it in, I would have seriously blown my top.
There's something about the Jag's that seems to attract attention from vandals and kids and that same something about them seems to make the owners very keen to protect and care for them.