03 X-type 2.5L engine knocking
#1
03 X-type 2.5L engine knocking
So i bought a 03 Jag today and drive it two and a half hours home. I had to stop half way to fill up and use regular because it was all that was available. It ran perfect till i was almost home and when i tried to come to a stop the engine would die. it would have trouble starting and didnt want to keep running. Now it idles good there is just a knocking in the engine. The codes we got were p0300 p0304 p0306 p1314 p0430 p1000.
#2
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Dan, first off, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good information and people here that are willing to help. But, we do ask a small favor from you. We pride ourselves in being a better car group. As a result, we are a friendlier bunch and we like to get to know one another. So, please stop by the New Member Section and tell us a little bit about yourself and your car. This will also give you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.
As for your problem. It is sounding like you simply need to refill the tank with the correct fuel. Our cars were built around using only premium fuel. In your case, the use of regular is causing the computer to not to be able to account for the lower octane rated fuel. Get the higher octane fuel back into the car and your problems should go away (you will either need to clear the codes yourself or they should clear on their own after about 5 runs of about 15KM/10 miles).
Some of our cars (X-Types) seem to handle the lower octane gas while others seem to hate it with a passion. Sounds like you have one of the later cars.
As for your problem. It is sounding like you simply need to refill the tank with the correct fuel. Our cars were built around using only premium fuel. In your case, the use of regular is causing the computer to not to be able to account for the lower octane rated fuel. Get the higher octane fuel back into the car and your problems should go away (you will either need to clear the codes yourself or they should clear on their own after about 5 runs of about 15KM/10 miles).
Some of our cars (X-Types) seem to handle the lower octane gas while others seem to hate it with a passion. Sounds like you have one of the later cars.
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#6
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Dan, when it comes to plugs, the more simple, the better. We have found that the multi-spark spark plugs actually cause the computer to have fits. Get yourself a brand name double platinum plug (NGK, Autolite, Bosch) and go from there. PLugs like the BOsch +4's, Splitfires, etc will give you more grief than resolution to anything.
As for the darker piston, odds are you have had a slight fueling issue with that cylinder. But, new plugs should correct that.
As for the darker piston, odds are you have had a slight fueling issue with that cylinder. But, new plugs should correct that.
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Dan, if you don't want to pull the plug, get yourself some paper towels and soak it up that way. I would still recommend pulling the plug so you can wipe the plug off really good to get rid of any residual oil.
Or, simply remove the plug, let the little bit of oil drip into the cylinder and when you start your car, it will burn it out of the cylinder and then all you have is a little leftover in the plug well that you have to wipe out.
Don't forget to wipe the inside of the coil to get rid of any oil there.
Or, simply remove the plug, let the little bit of oil drip into the cylinder and when you start your car, it will burn it out of the cylinder and then all you have is a little leftover in the plug well that you have to wipe out.
Don't forget to wipe the inside of the coil to get rid of any oil there.
#10
after letting idle for a while and sound would go away and come back but sounds better than before. I drove it around the block to see if it would help, it ran perfect(with the ticking) tell it got up to temperature. Whenever i tried to come to a stop or let off the gas the oil pressure light goes off and the engine dies. Also the abs light is always on, i dont think that would make a difference.
#11
I think you may have two bad coil packs on cylinders 4 and 6 and unfortunately they might have damaged your catalytic converters. The coil packs sometimes work ok when the engine is cold and then stop firing when they get warm and this seems to be what you are experiencing.
May want to put two coil packs on those two cylinders and see if that fixes it. If it runs better after that, before you get new catalytic converters you can try running a bottle of cataclean in it and see if that helps with the other codes.
Good luck!
May want to put two coil packs on those two cylinders and see if that fixes it. If it runs better after that, before you get new catalytic converters you can try running a bottle of cataclean in it and see if that helps with the other codes.
Good luck!
Last edited by ltmax; 07-06-2014 at 06:21 AM.
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I've tried twice in the past to fix a bad rod bearing with the engine in the car and both times it turned out to be a complete waste of effort. (funny but both of them were on Ford V-6 engines...)
From what I learned the hard way is; usually when the bearing fails it damages the crankshaft and unless you turn the crank any new bearing and rod will quickly start to knocking once again in short order after it's installed due to the crank now being egg shaped and no longer round.
Hopefully in your case you'll have better luck and to answer your question, any brand of rod bearing will work just fine Jag OEM not required.
From what I learned the hard way is; usually when the bearing fails it damages the crankshaft and unless you turn the crank any new bearing and rod will quickly start to knocking once again in short order after it's installed due to the crank now being egg shaped and no longer round.
Hopefully in your case you'll have better luck and to answer your question, any brand of rod bearing will work just fine Jag OEM not required.
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So its been awhile since i've posted anything here but glad to say i finally got the jag up and running almost like new again! I started working at a gm dealership and talked a mechanic there into doing all the work for me. Parts were easy to find i guess cause the parts guy found them all for me. I didn't have to do a thing. So the bill for the engine and swap plus new winter tires, brake pads and rotors, wheel sensor and hub came out to about 4k. Put a sound system in it and new key fob cause the old one died. Now its an awesome running and driving jag but sadly i'm selling it because i bought a cadillac from the dealership that i work at. Thanks for everyones help!
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