Ghostman, could you post the codes you are getting? Knowing that would make it easier to help you diagnose your issue.

 

Ghostman: Suggestion: 1st replace the faulty PCV valve, reset the CEL and clear the error codes, then tell us what new error codes appear so we can help diagnose remaining issues.

Per Occam's Razor, the simplest theory is most probable. So here's a simple theory: The faulty PCV valve is the single cause of:
(1) Excessive crankcase air flowing into the intake manifold,
(2) Carrying excessive crankcase oil into the intake manifold,
(3) The excess crankcase air bypasses the MAF sensor,
(4) Which result in a lean condition / lean error codes, loss of power, etc.
(5) Causing you to replace spark plugs (likely fouled by the above), 6 misfiring coils, IMT O-rings, and the intake manifold gaskets,
(6) Yet the engine still runs lean, due to the faulty PCV valve (I presume. What are the error codes today?),
(7) Causing the engine to self-limit to 3,000 RPM max.

To prove or disprove, install the new PCV valve when it arrives, clear the CEL & old error codes, fire her up and let us know how the engine runs and what, if any error codes re-appear. We'll help you from there.

 

brakes are failing frequently

 

After taking it to several different garages , had several faults on diagnostics several hundred pounds later and 5 hours of searching it was narrowed down to too issues either fuel balancing valve , x type 3 ltr has two petrol tanks and is used to keep equal proportions in both tank , or the knock sensor ?

Eventually they found it was the latter ...replaced the knock sensor and hay presto no problems ...part cheep £56 pounds and about 2 hours to fit ..problem solved happy but a lot poorer cost me from start to finish 480 ......just for a £56 pound part gutted ....but cured

 

After a year and a half the problem came back and occurred more and more frequently. Ended up being leaking valve cover gaskets. Oil was getting into the spark plug ports and onto the ignition coils. The system would shut off half the engine, hence bucking or no acceleration. Replaced ALL ignition coils, plugs and gaskets. $1600. Now it runs like new, even with 208,000 miles on it.

 

Hi. i have quik question, 2003 jaguar xtyp 2.5. im try Replacement Brake Booster Vacuum Hose Check Valve Tube. Booster side its easy, but how is comeout, take out intake side ??? Thanks...

 

I had found out there was a "cage" around the base of the rear split axle that is pressed on. It is used determine speeds somehow to actuate and maintain the cruise. Mine was out of sync and actually busting off. The car still ran fine, just the hiccup every so often. Still under warranty so the replaced one of the split axles with the abs cage attached and I have only seen it happen twice in two years now, but fixes itself within a minute.

 

Hey my name is Josh and I have been having some issues with it. When I start the car first thing in the morning it idles very low and also the dome lights as well as the headlights are flickering. Also the check engine light flashes saying cruise not available. This morning I woke up unlocked it and the dome lights wouldn't come on. I turned on the heater and the display came on but nothing was blowing. I don't know what to do. I already have $3000 in it. Please any suggestions.

 

Hey my name is Josh and I have been having some issues with it. When I start the car first thing in the morning it idles very low and also the dome lights as well as the headlights are flickering. Also the check engine light flashes saying cruise not available. This morning I woke up unlocked it and the dome lights wouldn't come on. I turned on the heater and the display came on but nothing was blowing. I don't know what to do. I already have $3000 in it. Please any suggestions.

 

It's the steering wheel cruise control buttons

 

Hi There,
I have two issues and I wonder if you would give me your opinion.

First is a 2002 3.0 X type that has 135k m on it fresh o rings, spark plugs, and coils. In any case when it was cold it was driving fine and then suddenly went into limp mode (I am familiar with the engine conditions that can also throw this code) 4th gear; reverse worked fine and it threw codes 0748, 0753 and a few other ones. It sat outside for months in the snow, and every so often I would move it down the driveway to snowblow. In any case one day I started it fine and moved it without incident until I went to restart it after working and it started but didnt want to go into gear or move when in gear (R) so I fooled around with the J gate which seemed to do nothing (J Gate passes correct selection method of inspection where one selects P and P lights up etc), and then restarted it and reversed it back up the hill and parked it for two months during which I did not start it.

When I went to start it it wouldn't crank AND it wouldn't allow me to move it into neutral from Park (after pressing on the brake and activating brake switches which tested on another X car fine ). Additionally, when turned from "on" to start mode besides nothing happening as to starter cranking, the radio display goes blank and then comes back on when the key is returned to "on" from start.

Also, it looks like someone has been in the ECU before because the wires leading to the connector inside the engine bay at the firewall are "out" and loose from the normal plastic connector and it looks like someone has tapped into the wiring to either check the continuity or something like that. The ECU looks clean inside but between the connector and the pins on the ECU have a sort of "oil" thats dirty and I cant figure out how it got there - about two q-tips worth.

Fresh battery 12.7 V and good terminals from what I can see, and grounds are good. No immobilization at work. Didnt check voltage to starter or solenoid but it doesnt "fee;" like a voltage / amperage problem, it "feels" like something else.

Additionally, when I plug my ECU reader in now I get "no link established" and no matter how hard I try I cant get it to read; it connects and powers up so there is power there, but I dont know why it would be suddenly (since two months ago when it read fine) acting up unless the ECu was bad.

Your thoughts?

Second car is a 2004 3.0 x type. Same tranny issue one cold morning, threw a CAN code first 1643 I think, and then 0748 (line pressure) and 0753 (solenoid A). Went to Gearbox Fault mode and it was a hrad fault that wouldnt go away on restart.

Replaced all solenoids. Got 0753 again but this time it would "reset" itself each time you shut the car down and clear itself in that it wouldnt appear unless you try to have it shift from 2-3 in D mode, or go over 15mph coasting in N (forward or backward) and you can get 4th by holding it in 2 while speeding up to 45 mph and then shifting manually into D.

Additionally, at the same time (we think) the cooling fans come on full blast at cold start and do NOT come on or stay on when the hot car is shut off which it used to do every time you shut the car off hot, which is a function of the ECU. (The timing function)

Nothing else is happening concomitantly that I can notice. I'm thinking valve body but at the same time when I hooked up a test lamp 12v to the wire that runs to Solenoid A N88 and when I drove it I got no lamp on. Perhaps the v going to the solenoid is less than 12v, but I would think I'd see a flicker no?

At this point I am wanting to get the ECU and TCM checked although both look clean, and then sending the valve body out to get rebuilt. I dont know what else to do.

Ideas?

Thanks so much for your considered opinion.

Dave (david@duiutah.com)

 

these "mechanics" are irritating. Yes this light can be a number of things but suggesting you buy part after part is stupid considering none of them said a word about getting your car maintained. I had cruise not available light. i changed my oil and tranny fluid boom,light off. Hope this helps these grease monkeys are clueless.

 

hello, would you please tell me the part number or name.for the o rings you had to change?
Can I do that on my own or should I take it to a mechanic shop?
Thanks!

 

Mauro: Yes, you can replace the IMT O-rings yourself. The part number is C2S-40669 or C2S40669. Google "jaguar x-type imt o-ring".

Your 2002 X-Type came from the factory with yellow O-rings which where were a little undersized and prone to leak with age. Jaguar's remedy is green replacement O-rings which are slightly thicker to better seal against leaks.

Here's a how-to video:

 

I thank you very much for the info and video, I just place and order for the orings from Amazon under name "intake manifold gasket" a green o ring, I will try to do it myself but I think the lower one might be challenging but I'll try to do it with out removing the manifold. The lower one it looks like is having a leak, hopefully this fix my "cruise mot available " issue, but I'll change both of them.
Thanks again!

 

Mauro: You'll discover when attempting to remove the lower IMT valve that it won't back out fully because a high spot in the valve cover blocks the path. (Beneath the high spot in the valve cover is the cam shaft timing gear.) No worries. Just disconnect the electrical connector to the lower IMT valve, back it out partially, and remove the old O-ring, which is so inflexible it likely will snap as you stretch it to remove it. Next, stretch the new O-ring over the back side / electrical connector side of the IMT valve and into position. You may fear that the new O-ring could snap as you stretch it over the back side of the IMT valve, but they're quite strong and stretchable when new.

If you haven't already, replace the PCV hose and inspect the check valve in the brake booster vacuum line for leaks. These and the IMT O-rings are the top 3 causes of vacuum leaks on our X-Types. There are many posts on these topics. Good luck.

 

yes, actually I inspected them as well, they look good to me but the lower IMT valve seems to have a leak due to some residues that spears at the edge of the valve, the breather hose it look pretty good as the break booster hose and check valve, but I just inspected visually. As ypu can see the lower valve it has like oil and dust residue around the edge, this is the reason why i think that could be a problem or leak right here, I will change both gaskets though.

 

yes, actually I inspected them as well, they look good to me but the lower IMT valve seems to have a leak due to some residues that appears at the edge of the valve, the breather hose it look pretty good as the break booster hose and check valve, but I just inspected visually. As you can see the lower valve it has like oil and dust residue around the edge, this is the reason why i think that could be a problem or leak right here, I will change both gaskets though.

This hose looks good, no cracks or anything like that and its tight enough.
The check valve does not show any damage or cracks either, but if need i will change them.

Thank you very much for the tips!

Will let you know once i change the o rings, they should be here in a couple of days.

 

Hello, I change the O Rings yesterday, "cruise not available" still there, the previous owner did change them as well as you can see in the picture, but it seems to me that the edge of the valve it's kinda damge (based on the picture attached)... what do you think?
is it possible to put silicone around the O ring or valve to make sure a proper seal?
Lower intake air valve
Closer look to the edge of valve...
Is it ok if i put silicone around this area to ensure proper seal?
On the other hand I have the code P0333 (knock sensor) can this create this condition too?
P0333 and P1000 are the only codes I have so far.
thank you!

 

Mauro: It's unclear if that small crack in the IMT valve would cause a minor vacuum leak or not. But it won't hurt to seal the crack with a small dab of RTV silicone. Let the silicone cure completely before reinstalling the valve, otherwise the valve many stick to the manifold and be difficult to remove again for future maintenance.

A bad knock sensor is likely causing your P0333 error code and "Cruise Not Available" condition. This post shows how to replace a bad knock sensor:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ted-how-62847/