Howdy,

I'm looking to upgrade my Jaguar's suspension with Eibach springs. Currently my car has the stock non-sport set up. The Eibach description says that the kit they offer works for the 03 to 06 years, do you guys know if there is a springs/shocks variation in the pre vs post 07 models?

Anybody running eibachs on the non-sport stock shocks.. problems?

Any input is much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

619jag, it is my understanding that there were no major upgrades to the suspension of these cars during their lifetime. The biggest change was in 2004 when different calipers were installed on the rear of the car. So, if you are looking to install those springs, go for it.

 

Thanks!! I wonder how the ride will be with eibachs and 18s.

 

I have H&Rs with 18's and love it...rides like a jaguar should in my book...

 

Before:

After:


The springs still need to settle for another few thousand miles but it should go down another .2 or .3 inches once they are settled in. It drives like a tank (a good tank)

I am getting 20s delivered to me in a couple days...should tuck nicely and look amazing with the Jaguar

 

Lol...those wheels man. Anyways, that is the drop I am looking for. The thing is, Thermo told me if you do it, do spring/shocks, and get the sport shocks, change all four corners and you're done. The thing is, when I was a young blade, I decided I wanted to put a lift kit on my truck. So off I went and purchased the kit, installed it, and somehow the pitman arm extender was not in the kit (part that use to connect steering column to steering linkage). So if I lift the body, and that extends the distance between steering column and steering linkage, how is an adjustment not necessary if I drop the body? But, I freely admit I am not at all as acquainted with the XT as he is. I am going to research this because it will happen eventually.

 

installing lowering springs is nothing like doing a body lift on a truck. You aren't lowering the body only, you are lowering the whole car. You don't HAVE to replace the shocks when you install lowering springs, but you should since that's the best time to do it.

 

Hey bracester, is there any rubbing with 18s.. even with multiple passengers?

thanks.

 

I'm not going to try to convince anyone here about anything. If you think lowering a vehicle is done by simply putting on smaller springs and shorter valved shocks, go ahead and do it. But if you actually stop and think about it, there are other components that need to be adjusted so it all works. Steering linkage, wheel and tire telemetry( toe in/out, camber, etc.) I know some dude that plays around with those little pickups and slams them. You have to change spindles, ball joints among other things. So yeah, I think there is more to it than just a spring/shock change. I think you can drop the XT with spring/ shocks, but it won't ride correctly and you will be putting other parts of the vehicles steering components under tremendous stress.

 

I don't mean to sound like a jerk but, you are wrong. You literally can just put shorter springs in, get an alignment and be done with it. Lowering a truck is VERY different but even then if you are only lowering it 2 inches or less you can just put shorter springs in 90% of the time. Where you need to do a lot of work is when you are lowering a truck like 6 inches or more the way most mini truckers do. I used to have a ranger and lowering it 3 inches was pretty easy, just needed springs and shocks really, but to go lower than 3 inches I needed a lot more parts, and more work. Lowering the X type (and just about any car) a few inches or less isn't really a big deal. You can install ANY lowering springs offered for the X-type and your car will be just fine and you wont be putting any extra stress on the steering or even the other suspension parts, except for the shocks, which is why its suggested that you replace them with better ones while you install the lowering springs. But even then its not a whole lot of extra stress and 1000s of people have installed lowering springs on cars with stock shocks and been just fine.

 

I do yes but it is my own fault...I am running too wide of tires and too tall 235s with no fender mods and I do once in a while (on a super hard bump) hit my fender but inner fender rub there is none. Make sure the wheel offset is 40+ and you should be fine.

My 20s will be 42 offset and running 225/30s and they shouldnt rub at all

 

My car is lowered and I literally put shocks and springs on and an alignment...nothing else. This is my 3rd lowered car as that is all that needs to be done...never...ever had to adjust anything else

On a truck your right there is other parts that need adjusting...such as the leafs may need to be removed or stronger ones added to support the load while giving you the lower stance. Same with lifting it, you may have to add blocks or a complete suspension upgrade (again the leafs) to raise the tail end or add higher degree torque arms in the front to lift the front end or level it out. I have done both with trucks and your right there is more involved due to towing and weight carrying. Cars are just not the same it is literally that easy. Springs, shocks/struts, alignment. Done.

 

Ok. I guess it must work. What about upgrading all the rubber crap with some polyurethane bushings? Has anyone gone all out and tricked out their suspension like that? I bet that would look sweet!! I saw some kits that had a shitload of pieces. I wonder how long that would take to do? I am thinking something this:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...versal-106402/

 

There is a guy in the UK that sells a full ploy kit for the X, its not cheap though, about $500 US. Once I get around to installing all the suspension parts I have sitting in boxes all of my rubber bushings will be replaced with poly bushings and hiem joints (rod ends). I also have a few more surprise parts to install too. I just have to find the time to be able to completely rip apart my front and rear suspension to install it all. I have a few parts already in, like adjustable upper rear control arms and the coilovers. I love the way this car handles but the understeer needs to go away so I'll be working on setting up the car to be more neutral. I'll have a lot more adjustability than stock once everything is installed too so it shouldn't be a problem to do.

 

Nice color combo...


Heres mine with one of my other sets of wheels...

 

Thats slick! I am so pumped as I am getting my 20s today...they are all matte black and I got some Jaguar center caps to install over the Niche ones...hopefully they are removable...if not...there is more than one way to skin a cat

Is it me or are you fenders flared out? Or possibly rolled?

 

With center caps I've noticed that the Jag ones are smaller than aftermarket once, so what I did on one of my sets (the 19x9.5s) is carefully remove the thin metal disks from the plastic they are 3M taped to and do the same to the aftermarket ones too and re-3M tape the Jag center disks to the after market wheels center caps. You might have to do some trimming or something but its pretty easy to do once you get everything apart.


And yes, my fenders are VERY rolled haha. Probably added about an inch of clearance I have rolled them so much. I had to in order to fit 245/35/19s that I put on my 19x9.5s. In that pic I have a set of 18x8.5 with 225/40/18s in the front and 18x9.5 with 255/35/18s in the back. The rears rub, even after all the fender work to get the 245s to fit. but that's because these 18s use a one inch adaptor so the sit out a little to much in the rear. I am going to have the rear spacers machined down a little and then the 255s should fit. I have a 3rd set of 18x9s that I want to try to run 255s front and rear on. If not I'll just run 245s since I know they will fit with all my fender work.


Note to those reading this, I do NOT recommend trying to run bigger than 235s at the most unless you want to spend hours...and hours...rolling and banging on your fenders.

 

Missed the delivery...poop

Ya even with my 235s the back fenders need to be rolled a bit to get them to tuck fully without loosing some camber and a little toe in the rear. I would say 225s are a good and safe bet for our cars...plus the offset helps. I figured they had to be rolled with those 245s, but now I am sure it looks goofy if you were to put 225s on it with all that fender rolling

 

How much did your jaguar drop down.

 

Looks like I'll be finessing the heck out of my fenders to fit monster 265's under the X






18x9.5 Rota Grids 38mm offset