at 40-50mph loss of power
#1
at 40-50mph loss of power
while i was driving down the road around 40-50mph car just lost power,engine was still running ,pushed the gas pedal but no power. engine light,battery light,oil pressure light came on.was hard to steer.
car was running fine before,some noise came from the engine compartment around the starter motor or from the right side and last couple of days rpm dropped while standing at traffic light.
couldn't start the car,it was cranking but no start .had to to tow it.
any idea ??
car was running fine before,some noise came from the engine compartment around the starter motor or from the right side and last couple of days rpm dropped while standing at traffic light.
couldn't start the car,it was cranking but no start .had to to tow it.
any idea ??
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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besi, from the sounds of things, your ecu lost power or failed, resulting in the engine loosing all command of when to fire the engine. This will also result in a no start/no crank condition because the code in the key is sent to the ECU to be verified before a signal will be sent to the starter to roll the engine.
Now, one check you may want to do is to use a small jumper wire and go between the large post and small post on the starter (ie, battery post to the remote start post). The engine should turn over at this point. It will not start, but this will atleast confirm that your problem is electrical, not mechanical. If for some reason the motor seized, you will hear the starter click, but the engine will not rotate.
Now, one check you may want to do is to use a small jumper wire and go between the large post and small post on the starter (ie, battery post to the remote start post). The engine should turn over at this point. It will not start, but this will atleast confirm that your problem is electrical, not mechanical. If for some reason the motor seized, you will hear the starter click, but the engine will not rotate.
#3
#4
I had nearly the same thing happen to me a month ago, with difference only that engine would not crank. New battery solved my problem. Pull your battery out and take it to Interstate Battery or Sears to have it checked. When you've verified good battery power then get a scan tool to check for OBD codes. Your comment about "some noise from right side" may point to a mechanical problem with the serpentine belt area. To get to that you'll need to put the car up, remove RF wheel, then the access panel in the wheel well. You'll need a special thin serpentine tensioner wrench (Northern Tool, about $20) to get the belt off; there's not enough room for a 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar.
Last edited by swingwing; 11-28-2016 at 06:34 AM.
#5
thanks for the reply guys.looks like my Fuel pump died.
my mechanic checked it,i haven't talked to him what else did he checked.
is there anything i should check before i go with the fuel pump ?.
it's not cheap around $400 labor plus $500 for a new pump.
i have to look around on ebay,can't afford a grand right now. worst timing just before christmas right after black friday.
my mechanic checked it,i haven't talked to him what else did he checked.
is there anything i should check before i go with the fuel pump ?.
it's not cheap around $400 labor plus $500 for a new pump.
i have to look around on ebay,can't afford a grand right now. worst timing just before christmas right after black friday.
#6
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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besi, check out: Fuel Pump 2005 X Type Sku#1922258 | eBay
That will get you a used pump for around $100. can't help you with the labor as this is a fairly labor intensive job. But, saved you $400 overall.
That will get you a used pump for around $100. can't help you with the labor as this is a fairly labor intensive job. But, saved you $400 overall.
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besi (11-28-2016)
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