Hi all. Well it's been a year or two since I needed to ask any questions, doing well so far.
I have a new problem which I can't seem to solve, any advice would be appreciated before I waste too much more money and time.

Just to remind you all, my car is an X-Type, 2.2D, 5 door saĺoon, manual, 6 speed, on a 57 plate.

I was going through a 50mph speed restricted stretch on the M25. BANG, I hit a massive pot hole in the middle lane and I started getting a bad wobble in the steering whilst moving. The wobble would STOP when braking.

I travelled home slowly. When I looked, I had flattened/dented both off-side alloys, and the tyres both bulging.
Naturally, I bought two 2nd hand alloy wheels to match and put two new tyres on asap.
I put these two new wheels and tyres on the front.

Soon after, a day or two, the wobble returned but this time, ONLY when braking. I figured I must have also damaged a disk, so I replaced both front disks and new sets of pads. I also put the two wheels originally on the near side during the pot hole incident onto the front of the car.
For an unrelated issue, (near side rear whine) I also replaced both rear wheel bearings.

I still get a wobble when braking! It's almost as if the ABS is activating even when braking, even when moving slowly. The car feels like it's shuddering left to right to left to right, in quick succession. I have also noticed that I can feel the resistance at slow speed when braking which keeps in time with the wheels rotation. I can definitely feel it in the front wheels.

I have read it may be my balancing out of alignment, but didn't think this would keep in time with the wheel rotation at slow speeds. Could I have damaged a front wheel bearing and it not make a grind noise?

When driving, even at speed, the car steering is fine, no wobbles or shuddering and the steering feels solid and responsive.

Sorry for the long message, any help would be gratefully appriciated.

Phillip

 

I also wanted to mention that I don't have any error lights and no errors reported in ecu.

 

PMKimpton, from what you are describing, I am going to go out on a limb here and say that you need to check the far side rear wheel ABS reluctance ring. I bet you are going to find out that a chunk of it is missing and what you are feeling is the ABS thinking the rear wheel is momentarily locking up, so, it is easing up on that one tire and then sees it start to roll again (the actual wheel rolls the whole time). This would cause the ABS to kick in and out and you would be feeling the car pull back and forth as one side of the car is braking the same amount all the time and the other side is changing how much it is braking.

To check this, you will need to get both rear wheels in the air. Release the e-brake and then while looking down the hole where the ABS sensor was (ie, remove rear wheel, remove sensor), slowly roll the tire and see if you can see a gap in the reluctance ring (it will look like a metal band about 1 cm in width with small rectangles cut out of the band about every 1 CM or less).

On a side note, I need to make it back to your town. I had a lot of fun when I was there for the XE Feel event. Unfortunately, it was a quick in and out. So, keep an eye out and who knows when I might make it back there.

 

Many thanks for your reply. I will check this out.

Thanks.

 

Just a thought;
The car is just front wheel drive, and I've not long put new wheel hubs on the rear. Is there a ring in the hub and if so, I could return the hub if faulty.

 

PMKimpton, I would say that you need to get some sort of code reader to see if you are getting a C1165 or C1175 code. This will confirm that you are having a rear wheel speed sensor issue.

The other thing that you may want to try is having someone follow you and be in the other lane. So, as you are driving, they will be able to see the wheels and when you brake, they can see if they can spot a wheel doing something funny. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.

As for getting the new wheel bearings replaced under a warrantee, that would depend on who made the bearing and what sort of conditions they have with an issue like this. I would say to try and get some more solid data before you just go replacing parts just because.

 

Hello again everyone. I’m still fighting this problem, many £££’s down the road.

So since the original issue I have done a fair bit of work on the car as and when the funds would allow. I’ve also had an operation which meant I wasn’t driving as often.

The problem is getting worse.

OK, so the wobble started to get noticeable when driving, 50pmh+ you could feel it in the steering wheel and in the seat of the chair. The wobble was them massively increased in the steering when you start to brake, the harder you brake, the worse the wobble.

Naturally, I suspected, disks, tyres, wheels.
I had the start of a growl from a rear bearing too so I did this:
1, Replaced both rear hubs.
2, New set of discs and pads on all 4 wheels
3, 4x new tyres
4, Both rear Lower Control Arms
5, Hunter Laser 4 wheel alignment

After all this, the problem was still exactly the same, at times it even feels worse.
Since my first post, I have also been getting an ABS error come up, ECU reports the rear near side wheel as the issue.
I still hear/feel a small knock as I drive over small lumps in the road coming from the rear near side as if something is loose. (I haven’t emptied the boot yet)

A “Jaguar” mechanic agreed with many posts I have read here suggesting it was the drive shaft. Seeing as the driver’s side hit the hole, we opted for that side drive shaft. I couldn’t get the old shaft to come out of the hub, so I replaced both the drive shaft and the hub (lower suspension leg)

STILL I HAVE THE PROBLEM – EXACTLY THE SAME

In summary, driving at 40+ mph you start to feel a vibration in the steering wheel. The faster you’re going the more violent the shacking becomes as you brake (felt in the car body and in the steering wheel)

If it was the first time I had seen the car, I would say, DISCS DISCS DISCS, but I know its isn’t. The front disks are not the 2nd set of genuine Jaguar supplied disks and pads.

I’m thinking about doing the near side drive shaft and hub (only because I’ve done the other 3 so may as well) but I’m not confident this will solve it.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE - ANY ADVICE WELCOME !!!!! Its driving me insane, not to mention the costs in parts.

 

I could really do with some advice please;

Ive had 4 mechanics look at it, take it for test drives, put it up on ramps, wiggle all the joints with a crowbar, listen to the steering rack, put it on rolling roads.

I have something loose on one of my wheels which causes the car to shudder when braking. Accelerates just fine, drives in a straight line, brakes in a straight line, drives and brakes perfectly under 35mph, engines runs smoothly, balanced wheels, new tyres, new discs.

What could be lose/damaged which we cant see so easily?

 

PMKimpton, this might be something that you can try at local garage (some will do it, others won't). But, have them put the car on a lift and lift the tires say 30 cm off of the ground (just need the tires clear of the floor). Now, get into the car and start the engine and put it in gear. Get the car up to say 60 km/hr (whatever speed you know the problem will occur at, but not too fast) and then apply the brakes as someone else is watching the underside of the car. That way they can see what the car is doing and it may lead to a solution. If it is a hub like you think, then you should see one tire wobble like it is going to fall off of the car as the other tire wobbles some (feedback through the steering). Then you atleast know a side to start chasing on.

 

It can also be that the wheel hub is bent. The easiest way to check if they are is too Jack the car up and spin the wheels and listen if you get a steady sound or an occasional sound of breaks binding.

Here is a thread about the problem with an S Type http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=95239&highlight=Stagnate.

 

Pot hole and shaking after while driving.
Then goes away with replaced rims.
Then comes back during braking.
So... are you on the clutch or engine braking during the shake?
Could it be a motor mount?

 

so many things with this car I had to buy a work car and just drive this on the weekend.. my dealer always find my problems and fix them.. very expensive.. $1600 brakes sensors and rotors.. rear diff noise $480.. dynamic error $980.. crack rims $850. Oil change $272.. tpms $98 plus labor.

 

how much for a oil change! He is ripping you off. I just bought the materials to do a oil change 18 Euro for oil (excellent quality made to ford specifications) oil filter 8.50 petrol filter 20. Total price 46.50. Ok I get it at workshop price but so does he. I rent a power lift to raise the car for 50 euros for 8 hours. I hour later the oil change is done.

For a complete oil change I have spent a 100 Euros and had plenty of time to check that everything is ok from beneath.

 

Very good possibility your pothole experience ruined your caster. But your symptoms point to a bent suspension part, causing your hub to be out of line, which will make your wheel wobble from left to right of course. I like the idea mentioned about driving it while a couple of friends drive another car in front of you so that the passenger can watch for the wobble. Or, a lift will do the same thing.

 

2 & 1/2 year old thread

 

Yeah I know, but I find answers from people who posted years later all the time. And, this question was never even resolved.