x-type 3.0L engine oil leak
#1
01-01-2011, 07:25 PM
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x-type 3.0L engine oil leak
Hi all,
New to forum, I have a 2004 sport version with a 3.0L engine.
I wanted to know if many others had problems with their engine leaking oil. It is putting some small spots on the driveway, but a mechanic showed me on it on a lift. It seems like it is worse then I could tell. It looks like it is burning off on the exhaust passenger side. It doesn't smoke nor leave a lot of drip marks. The quote to replace the pan gasket was around $700 vs. they said a dealer charge of $1200. Has anyone had any success with fixing this on their own? Other issue rather than the oil pan gasket?
My car has been pretty good. 30K miles without any problems. It does not seem like a car with 60K should have an engine leak. I think the front suspension is starting to go also as the tires are recently wearing on the inside.
Appreciate any feedback.
Chris
New to forum, I have a 2004 sport version with a 3.0L engine.
I wanted to know if many others had problems with their engine leaking oil. It is putting some small spots on the driveway, but a mechanic showed me on it on a lift. It seems like it is worse then I could tell. It looks like it is burning off on the exhaust passenger side. It doesn't smoke nor leave a lot of drip marks. The quote to replace the pan gasket was around $700 vs. they said a dealer charge of $1200. Has anyone had any success with fixing this on their own? Other issue rather than the oil pan gasket?
My car has been pretty good. 30K miles without any problems. It does not seem like a car with 60K should have an engine leak. I think the front suspension is starting to go also as the tires are recently wearing on the inside.
Appreciate any feedback.
Chris
#2
01-02-2011, 07:04 AM
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Chris, no other recomendations. The leaking oil pan is a common problem with these cars and unfortunately, there is no easy way to fix it. Due to the location of a single bolt, it requires dropping a lot of stuff to access it, leading to the big cost. In short, the transfer case needs to be dropped from the car. There is an alternate method, but I personally am not a fan of it and I would be asking how the shop plans on doing the job. The alternator method involves drilling a hole in the bracket for the transfer case so you can access the bolt. When it comes to major driveline components and knowing the transfer case is weak to begin with, I like as much metal in those components as possible. Some have had this done and they say they don't have any issues. So, make your own decision.
#3
01-02-2011, 11:44 AM
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01-02-2011, 07:21 PM
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chknhwk (01-03-2011)
#6
01-03-2011, 11:48 AM
What is the root cause of the oil pan leaks? Crappy gasket? Distorted sealing surface? Self-loosening bolts? Sorry, but I don't buy the argument that the leak will come back if the pan is properly sealed. Is there a service bulletin on this?
An anecdotal story: The GM 3800 engines of 1998 vintage experienced chronic oil pan leaks (at least on two cars that I owned). The root cause of these leaks was "ripples" at the corners of the oil pan sealing flange (the pan was stamped out of sheet-metal). The fix, per the factory TSB, was to apply a thicker bead of RTV gasket maker to each side of the windage tray / gasket and re-assemble. Material cost was only a few bucks for the RTV, but took about 5 hours labor. Bottom line is there was a cause and a solution.
An anecdotal story: The GM 3800 engines of 1998 vintage experienced chronic oil pan leaks (at least on two cars that I owned). The root cause of these leaks was "ripples" at the corners of the oil pan sealing flange (the pan was stamped out of sheet-metal). The fix, per the factory TSB, was to apply a thicker bead of RTV gasket maker to each side of the windage tray / gasket and re-assemble. Material cost was only a few bucks for the RTV, but took about 5 hours labor. Bottom line is there was a cause and a solution.
#7
01-04-2011, 06:24 PM
I aree that there should be a root cause. But according to my jag dealer tech friend, they all leak, and they all come back leaking. Jag has not figured out the root cause yet. I doubt they will at this stage. The aftermarket will not likely do this either, volumes are too low, and the service industry loves this kind of 1000 dollar gasket job.
I even have decades of aluminim casting of oil pans specifically. LOL.
Full RTV custom moulded seal seems to be the modern way instead of a metal/rubber gasket. This jag has the metal rubber thing.
I dropped my oil pan, cleaned everthing fanatically, and put a new gasket.
that was 8 months ago, and it is seeping again now. I suppose I could have put some extra silicone - I will do that if I take the job on again.
I even have decades of aluminim casting of oil pans specifically. LOL.
Full RTV custom moulded seal seems to be the modern way instead of a metal/rubber gasket. This jag has the metal rubber thing.
I dropped my oil pan, cleaned everthing fanatically, and put a new gasket.
that was 8 months ago, and it is seeping again now. I suppose I could have put some extra silicone - I will do that if I take the job on again.
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#8
02-04-2011, 05:41 PM
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I drive an XJ myslef 2005, however it was leaking specially when it is parked for a long period. I don;'t know why but when i use it daily it just doesnt leak. My local mechanic told me the story of 'normal' leaking on jaguars which didn;'t make any sence at least it is not a 1970 model to accept the fact that the block is a US design (oldsmobile), but with the new models under BMW then Ford that is just not accepted. A local mechanic however solved the problem in 2 minutes and costed me 5 dollars and that is putting a special liquid in the engine that would seal the leak from the inside. That is only done if the leak is small. It has been 2 years now with no leaks whatsoever and I must have changed oil 5-6 times so far. I am sorry I don't have the name of that special liquid, it might be an STP product.
#10
09-11-2011, 07:47 PM
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On the 2003 X-Type there is a oil pan bolt that is blocked by the Transfer case. I removed the bolt by drilling a hole in the transfer case mount to access the bolt. Start with small drill bit and work your way up to a 1/2 inch drill bit. Then use a grinding stone on your drill large enough to fit a 13 mm socket through when your done. That's what I did and after I got done it looked as though it was made that way. A nice clean hole. Actually I used a 3/4 inch grinding stone shaped as a socket that worked perfectly for a 13 mm socket. Get it from Home Depot. Use some good none walking Dewalt drill bits. And it was easy to drill because the transfer case is made out of aluminum. Then you will have to remove the bolts on the oil pick up tube to allow the pan to be fully removed. Because the oil pick up tube keeps the pan from coming forward to be removed. Then use Loctite 5699 sealant from EMI, inc. on both sides of the gasket. The sealant drys in 1 hour. Plenty of time to bolt the oil pick up tube before the sealant drys. My car is leak free.
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