Door 'Guard/Trim/Strip Removal Project....
#1
Door 'Guard/Trim/Strip Removal Project....
Anyone know if the door strips on the outside of the doors that run along the extent of the body 'horizontally' are simply installed with adhesive or are there rivets? I am planning on removing them to update the look of the X-type, since these are extremely outdated styling cues. I have seen some XK8 owners remove them flawlessly on here, and it looks great!
#3
#4
The Ford Fusion, Mazda6, and the Lincoln MKZ owners forums have all been taking their door guards off with no problems, just 2-sided tape. Since These are all ford manufactured like the X-type, I'm going to assume there are no clips of any kind. I'm going to pull them off. It's going to look so clean. If i encounter any rivets, i'll stop
The door guards look incredibly 'dated,' and serve little purpose, especially when i park away from everyone.
The door guards look incredibly 'dated,' and serve little purpose, especially when i park away from everyone.
#6
#7
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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I have pulled one of the door trim pieces off of my car due to the tape not sticking any more on 1 edge. You can remove the trim pieces with no holes left behind. May look a little funny with the marker light behind the front wheels with nothing next to it.
As for how I took mine off, I used the trim piece to pull off a majority of tape, then I used a combination of my finger and Goo-B-Gone to get the rest of the sticky off. The trick with using your finger is to always have some of the glue left behind and use the old stuff to roll into a ball and use that to pull up the old stuff vice using your finger to rub it off. I have in the past been good with using some paint stripper in removing the old sticky too. Just need to watch the cloth so you don't start seeing color. But, as long as you keep the amount of thinner down, you are fine. The thinner will eat the foam tape long before it gets into the paint.
As for how I took mine off, I used the trim piece to pull off a majority of tape, then I used a combination of my finger and Goo-B-Gone to get the rest of the sticky off. The trick with using your finger is to always have some of the glue left behind and use the old stuff to roll into a ball and use that to pull up the old stuff vice using your finger to rub it off. I have in the past been good with using some paint stripper in removing the old sticky too. Just need to watch the cloth so you don't start seeing color. But, as long as you keep the amount of thinner down, you are fine. The thinner will eat the foam tape long before it gets into the paint.
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j_bond (03-23-2011)
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#8
I have pulled one of the door trim pieces off of my car due to the tape not sticking any more on 1 edge. You can remove the trim pieces with no holes left behind. May look a little funny with the marker light behind the front wheels with nothing next to it.
As for how I took mine off, I used the trim piece to pull off a majority of tape, then I used a combination of my finger and Goo-B-Gone to get the rest of the sticky off. The trick with using your finger is to always have some of the glue left behind and use the old stuff to roll into a ball and use that to pull up the old stuff vice using your finger to rub it off. I have in the past been good with using some paint stripper in removing the old sticky too. Just need to watch the cloth so you don't start seeing color. But, as long as you keep the amount of thinner down, you are fine. The thinner will eat the foam tape long before it gets into the paint.
As for how I took mine off, I used the trim piece to pull off a majority of tape, then I used a combination of my finger and Goo-B-Gone to get the rest of the sticky off. The trick with using your finger is to always have some of the glue left behind and use the old stuff to roll into a ball and use that to pull up the old stuff vice using your finger to rub it off. I have in the past been good with using some paint stripper in removing the old sticky too. Just need to watch the cloth so you don't start seeing color. But, as long as you keep the amount of thinner down, you are fine. The thinner will eat the foam tape long before it gets into the paint.
Thermo, is there an 'indention' where the trim is, or is it flat? I'm going to attempt this tonight, since the car is getting a full detail on friday.
#10
#11
I have the black side markers, so I don't think it will look that bad, But, I can always have it filled or black vinyl decal wrap it...Haven't thought that aspect through yet.
so far, the front doors look WAYYYY better than before. I promise to post pix after it's all off and fully detailed by the shop.
The door guards really steal from the clean shape and flow of the car, the strips just make it so 'busy.'
I think the side vents that EXEPAT has on his X-Type would look better without these on here...
so far, the front doors look WAYYYY better than before. I promise to post pix after it's all off and fully detailed by the shop.
The door guards really steal from the clean shape and flow of the car, the strips just make it so 'busy.'
I think the side vents that EXEPAT has on his X-Type would look better without these on here...
Last edited by j_bond; 03-24-2011 at 10:32 AM.
#12
I think it might look weird to 'us' only because we are accustomed to looking for it. I'll test that theory when I'm done
#16
#17
#18
Looks like none of them have clips. Quoting JTIS:
Door Moulding Apply suitable protective tape to adjacent areas of paintworks.Using a hand-held heat gun, apply heat uniformly along the moulding length.Applying local heat at one end and using a suitable thin lever to avoid damaging paintwork, progessively ease the moulding away from the door panel.Discard the moulding and remove protective tape.Remove any residual adhesive and thoroughly clean area using white spirit.Optimum adhesion is achieved by warming body panel and moulding to 30°C (86°F)Using white spirit make sure that mounting area is clean, dry and de-greased.Remove protective backing tape from the moulding.Do not allow the moulding to contact the body panel until it is correctly aligned.Aligning with adjacent mouldings or to match opposite side of vehicle, press the new moulding firmly onto the body panel.Apply hand pressure along the moulding length to make sure satisfactory adhesion.Allow the moulding and door panel to cool, then thoroughly clean both using white spirit.Apply a coat of suitable polish to the moulding and body.
I may go into the garage and do mine. Sounds pretty easy with a heat gun.
Door Moulding Apply suitable protective tape to adjacent areas of paintworks.Using a hand-held heat gun, apply heat uniformly along the moulding length.Applying local heat at one end and using a suitable thin lever to avoid damaging paintwork, progessively ease the moulding away from the door panel.Discard the moulding and remove protective tape.Remove any residual adhesive and thoroughly clean area using white spirit.Optimum adhesion is achieved by warming body panel and moulding to 30°C (86°F)Using white spirit make sure that mounting area is clean, dry and de-greased.Remove protective backing tape from the moulding.Do not allow the moulding to contact the body panel until it is correctly aligned.Aligning with adjacent mouldings or to match opposite side of vehicle, press the new moulding firmly onto the body panel.Apply hand pressure along the moulding length to make sure satisfactory adhesion.Allow the moulding and door panel to cool, then thoroughly clean both using white spirit.Apply a coat of suitable polish to the moulding and body.
I may go into the garage and do mine. Sounds pretty easy with a heat gun.