Drain plug's
#1
03-11-2010, 04:36 PM
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Drain plug's
I'm looking to do the X-fer case and trassmission on my 04-X..after going thru the threds.I see some mech know how is needed,but looks easy enough.I see the mention of drain plug's (I.m a cook not a mechanic lol),..Afew Q's Are they using this as to make it easier to fill than ripping in engine for fill plug,. and are these something universial to this or do i need to find aspecific size.,as well i see they are some what jury rigged in the link..is this just to accomodate the filling..I cant do any soldering ..so i hope i can still do this...shop's are too pricey for my cheap irish blood
#2
03-11-2010, 06:34 PM
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Irish, the transfer case has both a fill and drain plug, but like you have probably read, the fill plug is inaccessible unless you drop the transfer case. So, however you do the transfer case fluid, you need to be able to add the fluid in through the drain plug without loosing any. If you need more help with this as I have developed a plug that has a valve on it to make this easier. As for getting the old plug out, all you need is a 3/8" ratchet. The plug has a square hole on it that the 3/8" ratchet fits into. You stick the ratchet on there, back out the plug like you are removing a nut. That easy. But, like I mentioned, getting the fluid back into the transfer case will be the "hard part". You have a fill rig, it won't be a problem. Any questions, let me know and I will help you out.
As for the tranny, I haven't touched mine yet. I am looking to do it soon. One of the last fluids I haven't changed out yet. I'm sure it is due. So, can't help you much there.
As for the tranny, I haven't touched mine yet. I am looking to do it soon. One of the last fluids I haven't changed out yet. I'm sure it is due. So, can't help you much there.
#3
03-12-2010, 07:53 AM
There's also another way to fill the transfer case back up.
I made the tool too (1/2 to ball valve to hose coupler), but it was way too long to fit between te transfer case and AT. (maybe MT's have more room?)
So what I did was this: Drain transfercase, Jack up right hand side (used a 2 post bridge, but only connected the righthand arms). This way you tilt the transfercase towards the drain opening, to get more out.
Get a beer.
Lower vehicle, connect lefthand arms and disconnect righthand arms (of the two post bridge). Raise left hand side as high up as you dare. Fill Transfercase throught drain opening, until it starts to run out. Put in drain plug, tighten with a 3/8 socket.
Done.
Oh yes, LOWER VEHICLE!
Worked for me...
PS: anything you added to much gets thrown out by the breather hole, so no worries about overfilling.
I made the tool too (1/2 to ball valve to hose coupler), but it was way too long to fit between te transfer case and AT. (maybe MT's have more room?)
So what I did was this: Drain transfercase, Jack up right hand side (used a 2 post bridge, but only connected the righthand arms). This way you tilt the transfercase towards the drain opening, to get more out.
Get a beer.
Lower vehicle, connect lefthand arms and disconnect righthand arms (of the two post bridge). Raise left hand side as high up as you dare. Fill Transfercase throught drain opening, until it starts to run out. Put in drain plug, tighten with a 3/8 socket.
Done.
Oh yes, LOWER VEHICLE!
Worked for me...
PS: anything you added to much gets thrown out by the breather hole, so no worries about overfilling.
#4
03-12-2010, 10:58 AM
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#5
03-12-2010, 07:29 PM
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Irish, what you will need is a radiator drain valve (read below for more detail, THIS IS IMPORTANT) and a 1/2" Male NPT to 1/4" female NPT adapter. You will also need some hosing that fits on the drain valve.
As for the drain valve, I picked mine up at Pep Boys, but should be available at any auto parts store. You are after a drain valve that has a metal collar attached to the handle. It will look like someone added a 9mm shell casing to the top of the drain valve. You need this so you can put the hose in the end of the valve. When selecting the hose, you want a hose that fits snuggly into the "shell casing". If I remember right, 5/16" OD tubing worked great.
As for making this all work. You will take the drain plug and screw it into the adapter plug. Get this connection fairly snug. Use of a thread sealant is advisable on this connection. Now, using a file or a bench grinder, you need to file the flats off of the adapter such that the part where you would normally put the wrench on the adapter is about the same size as the threads. DO NOT!!!!! alter the flats on the valve itself, just on the adapter. At this point, apply a little bit more sealant, screw the adapter/valve assembly into the drain hole, use the flats on the valve to tighten things up.
To add fluid, I found it is easiest to shut the valve (ie, handle in closest to the transfer case as this gives you the most room in this small hole), attach the hose, open the valve back up, add in the desired amount of fluid, let the level stabilize in the tubing (having clear tubing is ideal at this point), shut the valve (ie, moved all the way out), and then remove the tubing. You are done.
One thing that I should clarify is that you should route the tubing up through the engine bay so it is easier to add the fluid. If you have a pump of some sort, then all you need is a length of tubing to go from the pump to the valve.
Remember, unless you angle the car to really get all the old fluid out, you only need to add about 400 ml of gear lube (full synthetic 75W-140). If you have angled the car to get ever last drop of fluid out, then you need to add in 550 ml.
As for the drain valve, I picked mine up at Pep Boys, but should be available at any auto parts store. You are after a drain valve that has a metal collar attached to the handle. It will look like someone added a 9mm shell casing to the top of the drain valve. You need this so you can put the hose in the end of the valve. When selecting the hose, you want a hose that fits snuggly into the "shell casing". If I remember right, 5/16" OD tubing worked great.
As for making this all work. You will take the drain plug and screw it into the adapter plug. Get this connection fairly snug. Use of a thread sealant is advisable on this connection. Now, using a file or a bench grinder, you need to file the flats off of the adapter such that the part where you would normally put the wrench on the adapter is about the same size as the threads. DO NOT!!!!! alter the flats on the valve itself, just on the adapter. At this point, apply a little bit more sealant, screw the adapter/valve assembly into the drain hole, use the flats on the valve to tighten things up.
To add fluid, I found it is easiest to shut the valve (ie, handle in closest to the transfer case as this gives you the most room in this small hole), attach the hose, open the valve back up, add in the desired amount of fluid, let the level stabilize in the tubing (having clear tubing is ideal at this point), shut the valve (ie, moved all the way out), and then remove the tubing. You are done.
One thing that I should clarify is that you should route the tubing up through the engine bay so it is easier to add the fluid. If you have a pump of some sort, then all you need is a length of tubing to go from the pump to the valve.
Remember, unless you angle the car to really get all the old fluid out, you only need to add about 400 ml of gear lube (full synthetic 75W-140). If you have angled the car to get ever last drop of fluid out, then you need to add in 550 ml.
#6
03-13-2010, 09:12 AM
#7
03-13-2010, 11:14 PM
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Upon adding fluid back,,,wouldn;t i just add what i take out..and on another note isnt there some sort of plug magnet i should clean as well right,which i asume will be attached to the plug i take out?Think im doin tne fuel filter and x-fer together,,i'll post pic's..to see the irishman's handy work
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#8
03-13-2010, 11:31 PM
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#9
03-14-2010, 08:49 PM
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Irish, the factory plug has a magnet in the end of it. You can clean it, but you are not reinstalling it, so, what is the sense?
As for replacing whatever fluid comes out with the same amount, I wouldn't recommend that. A lot of us members have pulled the plug and gotten nothing out of the transfer case, literally. The T-case was bone dry. Pull the plug and then install 400 ml if you didn't angle the car or 550 ml if you did. That way you are garanteed to have the proper amount of lube in the car. Worse case, if you over fill it, the lube will be spit out the vent. No big deal really.
As for replacing whatever fluid comes out with the same amount, I wouldn't recommend that. A lot of us members have pulled the plug and gotten nothing out of the transfer case, literally. The T-case was bone dry. Pull the plug and then install 400 ml if you didn't angle the car or 550 ml if you did. That way you are garanteed to have the proper amount of lube in the car. Worse case, if you over fill it, the lube will be spit out the vent. No big deal really.
#10
03-14-2010, 11:34 PM
#11
03-15-2010, 03:12 AM
#12
03-15-2010, 04:56 PM
#14
03-17-2010, 08:19 AM
RE Magnet
The plug that you install into the valve has a magnet on it. While not as strong as having the magnet inside the case, it does provide enough field on the valve so that some particles are picked up. However, if you are changing the fluid regularly, you are not allowing a build-up of debris to occur.
Your other options are:
1. Leave the original fluid in there;
2. Drain & Replace the fluid using the "quick get the plug back in and whatever level of fluid is left in there is in there" method
The point is that if its quick, easy, and not messy to change the fluid regularly with the the correct fluid amount, you probably will. In my opinion it's the best thing you can do to prolong the life of your TC.
Your other options are:
1. Leave the original fluid in there;
2. Drain & Replace the fluid using the "quick get the plug back in and whatever level of fluid is left in there is in there" method
The point is that if its quick, easy, and not messy to change the fluid regularly with the the correct fluid amount, you probably will. In my opinion it's the best thing you can do to prolong the life of your TC.
#15
03-17-2010, 08:48 AM
Right now I use option 3:
Tilt vehicle to add same amount of fluid as you do, and then refit original plug.
But tilting the vehicle that far up doesn't feel safe at all, and that's why I would consider your kit...
I have however, never bought anything without seeing at least a picture of it
Heck, I don't even download videos without a preview
Tilt vehicle to add same amount of fluid as you do, and then refit original plug.
But tilting the vehicle that far up doesn't feel safe at all, and that's why I would consider your kit...
I have however, never bought anything without seeing at least a picture of it
Heck, I don't even download videos without a preview
#16
03-17-2010, 03:14 PM
Found some more info on the GTR site (strangely, this is different than the JTIS I have)
WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands.
NOTE:
The lower lip of the sill must be 540mm from the floor.
Raise and support the left hand side of the vehicle.
Remove the vehicle from the lift.
Raise the vehicle using two jacks.
31. Fill the transfer case with 400ml of oil.
Tighten the filler plug to 20Nm.
WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands.
NOTE:
The lower lip of the sill must be 540mm from the floor.
Raise and support the left hand side of the vehicle.
Remove the vehicle from the lift.
Raise the vehicle using two jacks.
31. Fill the transfer case with 400ml of oil.
Tighten the filler plug to 20Nm.
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#17
03-19-2010, 09:19 AM
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#20
09-21-2010, 06:02 PM
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Speaking of drain plugs, what size is the drain plug on the 5 speed manual trans in a 2002 X-Type?
I did my rear diff. & my TC this past weekend, thanks to all the info in these discussion threads. On the rear diff. I used a hand siphon pump and pulled out a little over a liter of black gear oil, my car has 85,000 miles on it. I then pumped in the same amount of RedLine 75/140 synthetic gear oil.
Unlike the TC, the plug on the rear diff. is high enough that just as I pumped in a little over a liter of new oil, I started to get a few drips coming back out, but I was done so I just replaced the magnetic plug and voila.
I got a lot of info from Dennis Black's instructions on TC drain & refill. I got a 1/4 turn ball valve from HomeDepot and a 1/2" threaded NPT nipple. Instead of a hand pump I let gravity do her job and snaked a 3/8" tube(3ft long) up to the top of the engine and attached a small funnel to that end. Then slowly poured in more RedLine 75/140 (550ml) into the TC and did the quick switcharoo with the 1/2 NPT nipple and the original drain plug. I lost about 75ml of new fluid in the swap. Thing is, as Thermo mentioned earlier, I only got about 75ml out of my TC, and I was using a siphon pump.
Back to my original question: What size is the drain plug on the manual trans of an X-Type? I backed my tranny drain plug out a little but quickly realized it was not 1/2" NPT, it was a smaller diameter, maybe 3/8" NPT? Does anyone know?
Thanks!
I did my rear diff. & my TC this past weekend, thanks to all the info in these discussion threads. On the rear diff. I used a hand siphon pump and pulled out a little over a liter of black gear oil, my car has 85,000 miles on it. I then pumped in the same amount of RedLine 75/140 synthetic gear oil.
Unlike the TC, the plug on the rear diff. is high enough that just as I pumped in a little over a liter of new oil, I started to get a few drips coming back out, but I was done so I just replaced the magnetic plug and voila.
I got a lot of info from Dennis Black's instructions on TC drain & refill. I got a 1/4 turn ball valve from HomeDepot and a 1/2" threaded NPT nipple. Instead of a hand pump I let gravity do her job and snaked a 3/8" tube(3ft long) up to the top of the engine and attached a small funnel to that end. Then slowly poured in more RedLine 75/140 (550ml) into the TC and did the quick switcharoo with the 1/2 NPT nipple and the original drain plug. I lost about 75ml of new fluid in the swap. Thing is, as Thermo mentioned earlier, I only got about 75ml out of my TC, and I was using a siphon pump.
Back to my original question: What size is the drain plug on the manual trans of an X-Type? I backed my tranny drain plug out a little but quickly realized it was not 1/2" NPT, it was a smaller diameter, maybe 3/8" NPT? Does anyone know?
Thanks!