Hesitation/Judder/Stutter/Jerking under load
#41
06-23-2015, 02:42 AM
Well, strictly speaking the upstream O2 is a Lambda sensor, because it feeds back to the ECU to maintain Lambda, while the downstream is not, but you're right of course - they're both oxygen sensors.
There's a myriad of vacuum hoses around the intake that can split subtly and cause this. I have much the same car and had a bit of an idling problem a few years ago because of this. Note also that the ECU was reloaded at the time to cure some aberrant "learned" behaviour due to the fault.
Heu guys!
I've had a 1999, S-type, 3.0 for the last 8 years and been experiencing the same problem (jerking under load, hesitating, misfiring) between 1000rpm and 1500rpm. Replaced the cranckshaft and camshaft sensors, MAF, fitted a new CAT, plugs, coils, sealents, etc... The only things I haven't tried were replacing the coolant sensor and O2 sensors. My car has 250k miles. I'll probably replace the latter now.
I've had a 1999, S-type, 3.0 for the last 8 years and been experiencing the same problem (jerking under load, hesitating, misfiring) between 1000rpm and 1500rpm. Replaced the cranckshaft and camshaft sensors, MAF, fitted a new CAT, plugs, coils, sealents, etc... The only things I haven't tried were replacing the coolant sensor and O2 sensors. My car has 250k miles. I'll probably replace the latter now.
#42
03-31-2016, 07:04 PM
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Yes similar issues !!!
I have had the exact same problem for the past 2 years. I wish we could fifure out what causes this, it is very iritating and embarrassing when others are in the car with me. I replaced plugs twice, coils, and checked all the ignition wiring. I don't know what it is!!!!! I love the car other than this problem. It seems like there are a lot of us out here. I haven't found any vacuum leaks with carb cleaner spray. I wouldn't use starting fluid, it is pure ether and could ignite very easily on a warm engine or a spark from wiring. Someone, please help us figure this out.
#46
04-01-2016, 01:20 AM
Veteran Member
#47
04-02-2016, 11:01 AM
Member
ICV gaskets (replaced both).
Fuel filter (replaced).
Brake Booster vacuum hose (replaced full hose with end pieces).
Air Filter (replaced).
Intake manifold gaskets (replaced both upper and lower).
MAF sensor (cleaned thoroughly and carefully).
New plugs.
Drained and replaced transmission fluid (did this three times over the course of about 700 miles with Idemitsu k10 royal purple atf).
I can go into each of the problems and why I changed or cleaned them but I havent done an O2 sensor yet and I thought that was the culprit but Now after fixing the hesitation my fuel mileage has suffered and is noticeably lower than it was prior to the hesitation (about 70 miles less on a tank of gas).
Hope this helps.
G
#48
04-02-2016, 11:29 AM
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Ok thank you
Here's what I did and it it finally went away. I honestly dont know which of the replacements fixed the hesistation though:
ICV gaskets (replaced both).
Fuel filter (replaced).
Brake Booster vacuum hose (replaced full hose with end pieces).
Air Filter (replaced).
Intake manifold gaskets (replaced both upper and lower).
MAF sensor (cleaned thoroughly and carefully).
New plugs.
Drained and replaced transmission fluid (did this three times over the course of about 700 miles with Idemitsu k10 royal purple atf).
I can go into each of the problems and why I changed or cleaned them but I havent done an O2 sensor yet and I thought that was the culprit but Now after fixing the hesitation my fuel mileage has suffered and is noticeably lower than it was prior to the hesitation (about 70 us less on a tank of gas).
Hope this helps.
G
ICV gaskets (replaced both).
Fuel filter (replaced).
Brake Booster vacuum hose (replaced full hose with end pieces).
Air Filter (replaced).
Intake manifold gaskets (replaced both upper and lower).
MAF sensor (cleaned thoroughly and carefully).
New plugs.
Drained and replaced transmission fluid (did this three times over the course of about 700 miles with Idemitsu k10 royal purple atf).
I can go into each of the problems and why I changed or cleaned them but I havent done an O2 sensor yet and I thought that was the culprit but Now after fixing the hesitation my fuel mileage has suffered and is noticeably lower than it was prior to the hesitation (about 70 us less on a tank of gas).
Hope this helps.
G
#49
04-03-2016, 10:18 AM
Replace Small Red Vacuum Line
I was experiencing very similar behaviors. I did all of the easier things mentioned and still couldn't determine what the issue was.
I was in the process of replacing the ignition coils, plugs and intake seals when I think I found the actual cause.
When I was disconnecting the vacuum line that runs from the back of the manifold to the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure sensor?) it just came apart. It was very brittle and stiff. At the bend in it that turns the line towards the front of the car it was very discolored like it had been cooked over and over.
I finished all of the other items and bought a new vacuum line from Jag (~ $37) and now all is well. Part # C2S28870. They had upgraded it over the years and put some protective loom on there but it is still just a "Red Straw" as materials go. Very fragile and will easily breaks. So when you go in there to inspect it it could come apart easily like mine did. Be careful.
I had not seen this one listed as a possible cause anywhere so this could help others a lot.
My X-Type now has a good crisp throttle.
I was in the process of replacing the ignition coils, plugs and intake seals when I think I found the actual cause.
When I was disconnecting the vacuum line that runs from the back of the manifold to the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure sensor?) it just came apart. It was very brittle and stiff. At the bend in it that turns the line towards the front of the car it was very discolored like it had been cooked over and over.
I finished all of the other items and bought a new vacuum line from Jag (~ $37) and now all is well. Part # C2S28870. They had upgraded it over the years and put some protective loom on there but it is still just a "Red Straw" as materials go. Very fragile and will easily breaks. So when you go in there to inspect it it could come apart easily like mine did. Be careful.
I had not seen this one listed as a possible cause anywhere so this could help others a lot.
My X-Type now has a good crisp throttle.
#50
04-03-2016, 03:34 PM
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Thanks
I was experiencing very similar behaviors. I did all of the easier things mentioned and still couldn't determine what the issue was.
I was in the process of replacing the ignition coils, plugs and intake seals when I think I found the actual cause.
When I was disconnecting the vacuum line that runs from the back of the manifold to the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure sensor?) it just came apart. It was very brittle and stiff. At the bend in it that turns the line towards the front of the car it was very discolored like it had been cooked over and over.
I finished all of the other items and bought a new vacuum line from Jag (~ $37) and now all is well. Part # C2S28870. They had upgraded it over the years and put some protective loom on there but it is still just a "Red Straw" as materials go. Very fragile and will easily breaks. So when you go in there to inspect it it could come apart easily like mine did. Be careful.
I had not seen this one listed as a possible cause anywhere so this could help others a lot.
My X-Type now has a good crisp throttle.
I was in the process of replacing the ignition coils, plugs and intake seals when I think I found the actual cause.
When I was disconnecting the vacuum line that runs from the back of the manifold to the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure sensor?) it just came apart. It was very brittle and stiff. At the bend in it that turns the line towards the front of the car it was very discolored like it had been cooked over and over.
I finished all of the other items and bought a new vacuum line from Jag (~ $37) and now all is well. Part # C2S28870. They had upgraded it over the years and put some protective loom on there but it is still just a "Red Straw" as materials go. Very fragile and will easily breaks. So when you go in there to inspect it it could come apart easily like mine did. Be careful.
I had not seen this one listed as a possible cause anywhere so this could help others a lot.
My X-Type now has a good crisp throttle.
#51
08-28-2016, 10:16 AM
Junior Member
HELP!!
X, I'm still experiencing these symptoms of hesitation or stuttering around 30-35mph and it's been just about a year. 90% of my driving is in the city too. It happens when I'm cruising at 35-40mph, it happens if I'm going uphill and it happens when I put cruise control on. I haven't figured out what it is. Maybe it's the nature of the transmission and gearbox around that specific speed. I don't know, but I'd really like to. I agree, it kinda takes the joy out of driving around town.
I've replaced all 6 coils and plugs twice with brand new ones. I've replaced the MAP sensor, MAF sensor, Breather vent hose, IMT gaskets, Upper Plenum gaskets a couple times, Crankcase sensor, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, no reported vacuum leaks, checked the brake booster hose and replaced Throttle body (twice). The last code I got was throttle related, but we discovered the pins in the plug were loose and a wire was slightly damaged. That was fixed and since then I haven't had a code, but I still get the stutter. It just feels like air bubbles popping. So maybe it's injectors. Mine were apparently fine, but how do you even test injectors.
What I haven't done: I haven't replaced the transmission or gearbox fluid - 1) I don't have a garage and personal space to do it. 2) I'm not confident I won't screw it up. I haven't tested or replaced the injectors. I haven't replaced the 02 sensors. I haven't replaced the cat converters.
I put 92 in my fuel tank and I go to the same place to refuel. I tried different gas stations when I was noticing it, but couldn't see a noticeable difference. I never noticed it prior to doing my 90K tune up (April 2013). So..........I'm still hoping for a solution. When i can afford what I haven't done I'll pick away and report back. That might take some time so fingers crossed someone knows exactly what is happening.
I've replaced all 6 coils and plugs twice with brand new ones. I've replaced the MAP sensor, MAF sensor, Breather vent hose, IMT gaskets, Upper Plenum gaskets a couple times, Crankcase sensor, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, no reported vacuum leaks, checked the brake booster hose and replaced Throttle body (twice). The last code I got was throttle related, but we discovered the pins in the plug were loose and a wire was slightly damaged. That was fixed and since then I haven't had a code, but I still get the stutter. It just feels like air bubbles popping. So maybe it's injectors. Mine were apparently fine, but how do you even test injectors.
What I haven't done: I haven't replaced the transmission or gearbox fluid - 1) I don't have a garage and personal space to do it. 2) I'm not confident I won't screw it up. I haven't tested or replaced the injectors. I haven't replaced the 02 sensors. I haven't replaced the cat converters.
I put 92 in my fuel tank and I go to the same place to refuel. I tried different gas stations when I was noticing it, but couldn't see a noticeable difference. I never noticed it prior to doing my 90K tune up (April 2013). So..........I'm still hoping for a solution. When i can afford what I haven't done I'll pick away and report back. That might take some time so fingers crossed someone knows exactly what is happening.
#52
08-29-2016, 09:42 AM
Member
avisjaguar,
Changing the transmission fluid actually fixed this problem for me. I believe that there is a thread that I followed that calls for it to be done (drained and refilled) 3 times in order to get out all of the old fluid. I noticed a difference about 400 miles after the third time (total mileage of about 700 from first drain to last fill before I noticed that the hesitation stopped). I used the Royal Purple MAX ATF with the Idemistu K10 that Jag calls out in their spec. I should probably do it one more time, but the hesitation went away; so it hasn't been a priority.
I still haven't done the O2 sensors yet and I know that I am suffering gas mileage. When I first bought the car it had 50K on it and I would get almost 400 miles on a full tank of gas. Now I barely get 320 miles on a full tank.
I'm going to contribute the problem of the hesitation to the trans fluid as it seemed to fix the problem even though I did a ton of other stuff prior to the fluid changes.
Changing the transmission fluid actually fixed this problem for me. I believe that there is a thread that I followed that calls for it to be done (drained and refilled) 3 times in order to get out all of the old fluid. I noticed a difference about 400 miles after the third time (total mileage of about 700 from first drain to last fill before I noticed that the hesitation stopped). I used the Royal Purple MAX ATF with the Idemistu K10 that Jag calls out in their spec. I should probably do it one more time, but the hesitation went away; so it hasn't been a priority.
I still haven't done the O2 sensors yet and I know that I am suffering gas mileage. When I first bought the car it had 50K on it and I would get almost 400 miles on a full tank of gas. Now I barely get 320 miles on a full tank.
I'm going to contribute the problem of the hesitation to the trans fluid as it seemed to fix the problem even though I did a ton of other stuff prior to the fluid changes.
Last edited by Xx_Xtype_xX; 08-29-2016 at 09:54 AM.
#53
08-29-2016, 12:33 PM
avisjaguar,
Changing the transmission fluid actually fixed this problem for me. I believe that there is a thread that I followed that calls for it to be done (drained and refilled) 3 times in order to get out all of the old fluid. I noticed a difference about 400 miles after the third time (total mileage of about 700 from first drain to last fill before I noticed that the hesitation stopped). I used the Royal Purple MAX ATF with the Idemistu K10 that Jag calls out in their spec. I should probably do it one more time, but the hesitation went away; so it hasn't been a priority.
I still haven't done the O2 sensors yet and I know that I am suffering gas mileage. When I first bought the car it had 50K on it and I would get almost 400 miles on a full tank of gas. Now I barely get 320 miles on a full tank.
I'm going to contribute the problem of the hesitation to the trans fluid as it seemed to fix the problem even though I did a ton of other stuff prior to the fluid changes.
Changing the transmission fluid actually fixed this problem for me. I believe that there is a thread that I followed that calls for it to be done (drained and refilled) 3 times in order to get out all of the old fluid. I noticed a difference about 400 miles after the third time (total mileage of about 700 from first drain to last fill before I noticed that the hesitation stopped). I used the Royal Purple MAX ATF with the Idemistu K10 that Jag calls out in their spec. I should probably do it one more time, but the hesitation went away; so it hasn't been a priority.
I still haven't done the O2 sensors yet and I know that I am suffering gas mileage. When I first bought the car it had 50K on it and I would get almost 400 miles on a full tank of gas. Now I barely get 320 miles on a full tank.
I'm going to contribute the problem of the hesitation to the trans fluid as it seemed to fix the problem even though I did a ton of other stuff prior to the fluid changes.
ugot.
#54
08-30-2016, 07:17 AM
Member
Thanks for sharing Xx_Xtype_xX. I still have not done the tranny flush. And I still have the problem. I suppose that is the best solution. Can you remind me what is the easiest way to do the flush without screwing it all up? Does the process have to be precise or is it somewhat forgiving, if you know what I mean. I don't want to be a little low on the fluid and burn up my tranny in a week or something. Can't afford that.
ugot.
ugot.
Good luck.
Let us know how it works out.
#55
11-03-2016, 10:24 PM
It worked! Thank you!!
I was experiencing very similar behaviors. I did all of the easier things mentioned and still couldn't determine what the issue was.
I was in the process of replacing the ignition coils, plugs and intake seals when I think I found the actual cause.
When I was disconnecting the vacuum line that runs from the back of the manifold to the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure sensor?) it just came apart. It was very brittle and stiff. At the bend in it that turns the line towards the front of the car it was very discolored like it had been cooked over and over.
I finished all of the other items and bought a new vacuum line from Jag (~ $37) and now all is well. Part # C2S28870. They had upgraded it over the years and put some protective loom on there but it is still just a "Red Straw" as materials go. Very fragile and will easily breaks. So when you go in there to inspect it it could come apart easily like mine did. Be careful.
I had not seen this one listed as a possible cause anywhere so this could help others a lot.
My X-Type now has a good crisp throttle.
I was in the process of replacing the ignition coils, plugs and intake seals when I think I found the actual cause.
When I was disconnecting the vacuum line that runs from the back of the manifold to the end of the fuel rail (fuel pressure sensor?) it just came apart. It was very brittle and stiff. At the bend in it that turns the line towards the front of the car it was very discolored like it had been cooked over and over.
I finished all of the other items and bought a new vacuum line from Jag (~ $37) and now all is well. Part # C2S28870. They had upgraded it over the years and put some protective loom on there but it is still just a "Red Straw" as materials go. Very fragile and will easily breaks. So when you go in there to inspect it it could come apart easily like mine did. Be careful.
I had not seen this one listed as a possible cause anywhere so this could help others a lot.
My X-Type now has a good crisp throttle.
In my case, that vacuum hose was not completely inserted to the intake manifold.
My 2004 X-type drives now normally.
I've tried so many things and spent a lot of time to solve the jerking powertrain when accelerating in 4th, 5th gear at 1500-2000rpm.
Last night, after reading your post I ran down to my 2004 X-type and found that the induction vacuum hose ( part no. C2S28870) was not fully inserted.
All I did to solve the problem was just push it to the right position. and I insulated the hose to protect from the engine heat.
Today in the morning I testdrove it, there was a few tiny stutter but jerking is completely gone away.
More power and no hesitation on kick-down.
My X-type has come back!
Thank you again Unibabble!!
regrads,
KS Lee
#56
11-04-2016, 02:19 AM
Veteran Member
#57
11-10-2016, 10:57 AM
I'm sorry I took a mistake. it didn't work.
Thank you very much, Unibabble!
In my case, that vacuum hose was not completely inserted to the intake manifold.
My 2004 X-type drives now normally.
I've tried so many things and spent a lot of time to solve the jerking powertrain when accelerating in 4th, 5th gear at 1500-2000rpm.
Last night, after reading your post I ran down to my 2004 X-type and found that the induction vacuum hose ( part no. C2S28870) was not fully inserted.
All I did to solve the problem was just push it to the right position. and I insulated the hose to protect from the engine heat.
Today in the morning I testdrove it, there was a few tiny stutter but jerking is completely gone away.
More power and no hesitation on kick-down.
My X-type has come back!
Thank you again Unibabble!!
regrads,
KS Lee
In my case, that vacuum hose was not completely inserted to the intake manifold.
My 2004 X-type drives now normally.
I've tried so many things and spent a lot of time to solve the jerking powertrain when accelerating in 4th, 5th gear at 1500-2000rpm.
Last night, after reading your post I ran down to my 2004 X-type and found that the induction vacuum hose ( part no. C2S28870) was not fully inserted.
All I did to solve the problem was just push it to the right position. and I insulated the hose to protect from the engine heat.
Today in the morning I testdrove it, there was a few tiny stutter but jerking is completely gone away.
More power and no hesitation on kick-down.
My X-type has come back!
Thank you again Unibabble!!
regrads,
KS Lee
The next day I wrote the post that tightening the induction vacuum hose had worked, the same symptom occurred.. unfortunately.
I updated the ECM program today and the jerks seems to disappear gradually. however it will take a few days to determine whether it works or not.
I'm sorry to change my words.
Thank you anyway, Unibabble!
I read your post about Jaguar service action for hesitating and shudder of driveline of the X-type.
That was so helpful.
regards,
KS Lee
#58
11-21-2016, 11:03 PM
That was due to failing ignition coil(s) in my case.
Hello folks,
Firts of all, I thank all precious posts in this forum.
I tried so many things to fix my 2004 X-type 3.0 , which was hesitating on light acceleration at 1500 rpm in 4th and 5th gear especially.
I changed ATF, ECM, TCM, oxgen sensor2 , spark plugs, an induction vacuum horse and cleaned the purge valve, and so on...
All I have done described above didn't eliminated the stutter, but partly worked to sofetn the symtoms.
When I checked the holes on camshaft cover, I found out some of the holes were deformed and they casusd interferences that could prevent the ignition coils from proper positioning.
I corrected the hole in proper shape as possible as I could, and reinstalled the coils and the symtoms were released much better.
A few days later, I exchanged the coils with the used normal ones and the symptoms were solved, however there is other problems left with my 2004 X-type, but the stutter has completely gone.
The failing ignition coil symtom was vert hard to diagnose, that was very terrible experience.
then
Good luck to All!
regards,
KS Lee
Firts of all, I thank all precious posts in this forum.
I tried so many things to fix my 2004 X-type 3.0 , which was hesitating on light acceleration at 1500 rpm in 4th and 5th gear especially.
I changed ATF, ECM, TCM, oxgen sensor2 , spark plugs, an induction vacuum horse and cleaned the purge valve, and so on...
All I have done described above didn't eliminated the stutter, but partly worked to sofetn the symtoms.
When I checked the holes on camshaft cover, I found out some of the holes were deformed and they casusd interferences that could prevent the ignition coils from proper positioning.
I corrected the hole in proper shape as possible as I could, and reinstalled the coils and the symtoms were released much better.
A few days later, I exchanged the coils with the used normal ones and the symptoms were solved, however there is other problems left with my 2004 X-type, but the stutter has completely gone.
The failing ignition coil symtom was vert hard to diagnose, that was very terrible experience.
then
Good luck to All!
regards,
KS Lee
#59
01-08-2017, 12:33 PM
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Riaz
It just happen to me as well. I changed the 1,3,5 cat converter and it fixed the problem....But i had a list of codes a mile long. But after fixing all the codes the car did what yours is doing. Bought a after market cat for 130. bucks and had a guy at a local shop weld it up for 50 bucks cash. Hope this helps
#60
04-30-2017, 07:26 PM
Junior Member
Not sure if you ever fixed this problem but I had the same issue with my third X-Type which is a 2006 VDP version. After searching endlessly for months, I found I thread here (can't remember which one it was) of somebody who had the same issue. He said he put a bottle of Fuel System Restorer 3 X and the problem went away. Having nothing to lose, I went ahead and tried it and man!!!! I couldn't believe the problem that had nagged me for almost a year was gone literally the next day!! And at the same time, the car felt unleashed - more horsepower and less gas consumption!!
I am thankful for that poster, whoever he was. He saved me hundreds of dollars and hours of painful driving by helping me solve this problem. The car even stalled on me a couple of times because of it. There were so many suggestions, I did not know what to do or where to start. Checking each and everyone of them would have cost me a fortune! For anyone out there having this issue, go ahead and give it a try. It's only $8.00 and could save you hundreds if not more!!
I am thankful for that poster, whoever he was. He saved me hundreds of dollars and hours of painful driving by helping me solve this problem. The car even stalled on me a couple of times because of it. There were so many suggestions, I did not know what to do or where to start. Checking each and everyone of them would have cost me a fortune! For anyone out there having this issue, go ahead and give it a try. It's only $8.00 and could save you hundreds if not more!!