Hello..
am a new member here.
i just bought a jaguar x-type 3.0 and i have three code one of them come and go by him self.. i have code p1111 and two codes p0174 one is pending and the other is confirmed. i have a bad pcv valve that goes two ways and i found a small oil leak in the pcv hose. i have already order a new one. my LT2 term is high value idle 18. i get bad performance and a weird gear change. i have also order imt rings. the code says bank 2 is too lean.. one of the other symptom i have that the fuel paddle keep vibrating on high speed 70mil. my questions here :

are those a symptoms of bad PVC valve and orings ?
or do i have to do a full tune up. or this cause by a bad MAF or o2 sensor ?

thank you

 

alserry, the P0174 (vacuum leak on the bank 2 side of the intake) can be caused by a bad PCV valve, a bad PCV hose (the hose between the PCV valve and the intake), and the IMT valves. So, you are on the right track for getting rid of the P0174 code. The only other thing that I would say to check is there is a hose that runs between the top of the intake and the brake booster. In the middle of this line, you will see a small "football" piece. This is a check valve. This is known for getting brittle and cracking and/or crumbling to dust.

A bit more on the PCV hose. Is the hose smooth or does it have a rib pattern on it? If it has a rib pattern, then you are probably good. But, if the hose is smooth (think normal coolant hose), then I would check the under side of the hose where it goes up and over a support. This style hose is known for developing a split on the back side, leading to a vacuum leak code.

As for the P1111 code, you want that code. That is saying that all the systems have passed their checks and all is good.

 

1 update:
thank you, i have checked the brake booster vacuum and its looking just fine no cracks and almost like new.
and i also put IMT o'rings and changed the pcv valve and still the same issue. hight LT2 value (18) at idle..

2 update:
while i was double checking the pcv valve i did blow air on it from both side (by my mouth)
and it went through from both sides without even resistant .. as far i know it should only be one way.. ?!!!!

i hear a hass sound from the passenger side area too like it coming from down of the engine any ideas ?!

thank you

 

alserry, the PCV valve may be bad, but how is the hose connecting the PCV valve to the intake manifold. If you have a smooth hose for the PCV hose, then I would venture to guess that you are going to find a split in the hose on the back side of it. If so, it needs to be replaced. The new hose will be ribbed.

Even with the PCV valve like it is, unless you have lots of gasket leaks, the PCV valve should not be causing what you are seeing. Worst case, you can tape over the end of the PCV hose so it is air tight and then clear the codes. If you start up the engine and the P0174 code comes back, then you know it is not the PCV valve being your issue.

 

so it's been a while.. I replaced lower and Upper gaskets, spark plugs, coils, MAF, fuel filter, air filter , brake booster hose. What should I do next replace the car ? Any ideas. That code drives me crazy..

 

Alserry, I had both 0171 and 0174 codes and I replaced PCV , the PCV hose, the upper and lower intake manifold orings, the IMT orings and I still kept getting the error codes. My engine never ran bad at all but the CEL returned soon after I had cleared it after each of these separate changes. I did perform LTF measurements using my OBD scan tool and confirmed they were high at idle then lowered when rpm went above 2,500 indicating a vacuum leak. I finally made a home-made smoke tester with a paint bucket, hoses and a low pressure air pump to blow the smoldering cardboard I was burning in the paint bucket into the air system of the engine. It showed air seeping out of the small vacuum tube connection on top of intake manifold plenum immediately after throttle body. After getting that air leak fixed my codes went away. I believe that vacuum tube goes to a pulse sensor for the fuel tank and fuel pump and that was culprit in my case.

 

ALserry, like what Robin said, looks like your next check will be the IMT o-rings and the PCV hose/PCV. See what you have at that point. If you are still having an issue, then you are most likely looking at the lower manifold o-rings. The other thing to check is if you look to the left of the throttlebody, look under the intake. You should see a green hose and an orange hose. Check those out. If you bang them, the plastic can become brittle and break. It will also cause the code that you are experiencing.

 

For the RobinGA suggestion, hot glue works great to confirm the seal, and easier to remove than a sealant.

So what is it that tells the computer, is it the o2 sensors or the IMT gizmos? Whatever it is could it be swapped sides and see if the error codes change with it?

 

Innzane, there is a "pressure" sensor (actually measures a vacuum or an absolute pressure) on the manifold that if the vacuum remains too low for too long, it will trigger the error code.

 

I Changed the PCV valve, hose and the IMT rings. What you said actually make sense. .. some time rarely when I have full tank the codes disapear it self then comes back when half empty. First I though it was the pump so I changed the filter and checked the fuel psi and it was 58 to 60 which is normal as before..
Can you discraibe which hose is that ? Do you mean the ones after MAF between the brake booster the the maf that is just a tube going to where o2 sensor connected? ?

 

Here is a photo I nabbed from another post on this forum sometime in the past. The leak that I had is the connection where the vacuum tube line goes into the intake manifold and its immediately after the throttle body. This photo has a red circle around brake booster vacuum line and that is NOT what I am talking about. The vacuum line I am suggesting is the one just below the bottom of red circle drawn in this photo.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...e-car-part.jpg

 

Mine kinda lose, i tried to replace the whole hose but I couldn't. There is a some kinda fitting ring shap in side the trottle i couldn't remove to replace it. Can i just seal it ?

 

Just like the fitting for the brake booster vacuum tube, you simply use a flat blade screw driver or similar tool and press down on the flat black plastic ring that is surrounding the tube while lifting up on the tube. Your vacuum tube end should then easily come out of the connector. I would think you could just seal it. I used some black electric tape until my new connector part came. Same will apply for brake booster vacuum tube

 

Yea there is metel ring inside the intake housing the black plastic ring. I got from amazon it called brake booster vacuum adaptor.
How do i remove that ?

 

I never tried to remove the brass piece and just transferred the new black insert and Oring to the one that is still in the intake manifold