Hi,
First, thanks to everyone who posts here. I have gotten a lot of useful information. Now, the problem. The vehicle is a 2002 X-Type Sport 2.5 with 95,000 miles. The codes (as read from the dashboard) are E511, weak battery. The battery is a 1 year old Bosch. Standing voltage (key off) is 12.08v. Voltage at idle is 15.08v.
Next code is D900 CAN fault. I guess I need to check and clean some connections. Where do I start?
Next code is 9205. I am not sure what this one means.
Last code is E510. PATS mismatch. What is the PATS?
I have recently replaced the left rear wheel sensor and the hose from the PCV valve to the intake. I have spark plugs and ignition coils on order.
Any help or guidance is appreciated. This is the wifes' car, so the pressure is on!

 

Ken, lets get some basic information out there and then lets see where this points us.

D900 is DTC U1900
9205 is DTC B1205
E510 is DTC U2510

First off, having a battery that is at 12.08 VDC with the engine off is a problem. Now, this is one of those things that it could simply be your multimeter, but normally it is the battery that is having issues. I would first start with putting the battery on a charger and get it up to 12.6 VDC (where it should be normally). That should then lower your idle voltage as the car is seeing the battery voltage too low and is trying to put a top up charge on the battery. if the battery will not reach 12.6 VDC, then odds are you have a bad battery (yes, it may only be a year old, but they can fail at this point). In short, a good battery has 6 cells in it with each one producing 2.1 VDC (which makes the 12.6 VDC). As a battery gets weak or discharged, the cells generate less voltage. So, the overall battery voltage goes down.

Now, for the D900/9205 codes, every car that I have run across has these codes. It would not be something that I would necessarily worry about at this moment. I would say to run to your local auto parts store and see what codes they can pull up using the port under the dash. Lets see what the car is worried about at this moment. The codes in the instrument cluster are those that the car has ever seen and can sometimes be a little bit misleading.

As for the E510 code (DTC U2510). PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) is a piece put into most modern day cars to kill the ignition system to prevent people from stealing your vehicle. This is another one of those codes that almost every vehicle has in its memory. You put the key in the ignition just so and the car doesn't see the key, boom, you have the code in the car. If the car is starting, then I would not worry about this code.

Get the plugs and coils replaced and lets see what we have at that point. Probably a good time to disconnect the battery to clear the codes out of the ECU (won't clear them out of the dash). Then lets see what the car says at the ECU (ie, using a code reader at the port under the dash).

 

Hi,
Thanks Thermo. I was hoping that you would reply. Yes, I suspect a battery problem. I will borrow a real code reader and pull the codes. It may be a week or more before I can replace the plugs and coils. I will up date when possible.

Ken

 

I almost had this problem solved. I replaced all the spark plugs, and the rear bank ignition coils and new upper manifold gaskets. I disconnected the battery and charged it. This brought it up to 13.10 volts unloaded.

I also thought that disconnecting the battery would clear any codes.
Upon start up after the work I still had a check engine light. At 92140 miles I borrowed a code reader. I had codes PO171, PO174 and C1165.
I used the code reader to clear the codes. This seemed to work until tonight at 92002 miles. I drove 30 miles to a restaurant and parked. I stayed long enough for the car to cool down. (It is 30degrees F here).

Immediately upon start up I had a check engine light, ABS light and DSC warning.
The battery voltage is 12.5v, checked immediately after a30mile drive home.
Clearly there is an issue with this battery. I am not looking forward to fighting with the auto parts store about a warranty replacement.
I will check for codes as soon as I can borrow a reader.

PS. Thanks to everyone who posted information about changing the spark plugs. it was a big help.

 

Based on what you are seeing and the past codes, I am suspecting that one of your rear wheel speed sensor (the one relating to C1165) is bad or you have a bad reluctance ring on that CV shaft (which would require a replacement CV).

 

Thanks Thermo. I have replaced one of the sensors. It seems odd that the ABS and DTC warnings will be there on start up, without the car in motion. These codes are also intermittent. They seem to go away when I charge the battery. When I worked as a BMW motorcycle mechanic I saw a lot of ABS problems related to low battery voltage. I will work this one step at a time. I am determined.

Ken

 

I have also seen those codes with an iffy battery...


I'd go there first. Have them load test the battery, I'll bet it fails, year old or not!

 

+1 on the DTC fault showing up when I had a bad positive battery cable. was hard to find as it runs under the battery box and the insulation had worn through on the underside.

 

Hi,
Sorry for the late update. This is definitely a battery problem. Unfortunately the battery load test good, so the store will not replace it. If I keep a good charge in it the codes go away and the car acts normally. If I let the battery get low the car will still start fine, but it will show ABS and DTC codes on start up. I will be replacing this battery soon with another brand. I have tested the vehicle charging system also and it is working properly.

 

UPDATED 05/22/2015

The car has been to a repair shop to replace the right rear axle, due to the ABS ring being rusted. That worked for about 20 minutes. I will be returning the car to the shop next week.

 

UPDATE WITH NEW PROBLEMS
The car is still at the repair shop. We had a passing thunderstorm yesterday and the tell me that the car began honking the horn and the windscreen wipers came on all by themselves. They had to disconnect the battery. I recall seeing a post about water getting into the body computer, but I cannot find it. Any help or advise is appreciated.

 

06/05 another update
The repair shop just called me. They cannot figure out how to make this repair (ABS and DSC) and they have given up. They have replaced 2 front ABS sensors, 1 rear sensor and 1 rear axle. They are giving up because they say the car is too rusty to work on and that any repair will not last.
Is there any body in the Long Island , New York area that I can trust to repair my car?

Ken

 

After replacing the left side axle and sensor, I still have ABA/DSC codes. The car now has all new wheel speed sensors and 2 new rear axles. Local Jag dealer says : You need a new ABS computer. $5000.00 Please.
Has anyone here replaced one of these? Is it electrical only or does it require access to the brake hydraulics also. It appears to be a common Bosch unit and I see that rebuild services are available. Has anyone tried one of these?

 

You could try www.bba-reman.com. They might be able to help you for a lot less than $5K. I have used them successfully in the past.

 

Did you ever get a new battery? I know earlier you talked about that. If you haven't already, maybe at this point it is worth a try. Certainly less than $5K.

 

Thanks Alfadude. This looks like a good solution. Looks like they keep exchange units in stock. I think that I need the Bosch 5.7 for the X type.

 

Did you ever get it fixed?

 

The car is home and still not right. I now have 2 new rear axles with ABS rings ans 4 new sensors. The car will set a DSC light as soon as it moves. The ABS light may or may not come on soon after, but I still have brakes. I am going to send the ABS computer out for testing and repair. Has anyone ever removed one from the ABS pump? It looks easy, but I want to know if there is anything that I should watch out for.

 

Can you post the code(s) that you are getting?

 

Did you ever replace the battery with a new good brand one?