I am just wondering if anyone has had this issue or could advise me on what my problem could be. I have an 04 X-Type 3.0 and there is no ABS light on but there are several times it will act like and make the ABS noise as you would hear when you are sliding. I checked all the pads, calipers, rotors. I did end up replacing the back pads, other than that, things looked alright. The back pads didn't fix the problem. If you need any more info just let me know. If you have any ideas of whats going on or have had this problem and got it fixed your help is greatly appreciated. Have a great day!

 

To me, it seems like you got a wheel speed sensor that is on its way out. Basically, your car thinks that it is going a different speed than it actually is and it causes the abs computer to kick in and activate your abs. I could be wrong, but the majority of abs issues on these xtypes are due to a rusted wheels speed sensor ring which is no longer accurate because of the rust.

 

Jagman, two things to consider. First, turn the ignition key to the RUN position (do not start the engine) and see if the ABS light comes on. If it doesn't, then I would start with replacing the ABS light bulb and then go from there.

Next, you will want to remove the rear wheels and then remove the speed sensors. From there you can look down the hole and look at the speed ring. You can even take a small screw driver and gently press on the speed ring. It should be fairly stuff. But, if it is really flexible, it may be flexing with the braking and you are loosing the speed signal, making the ABS module think the wheel has locked up.

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate the advice. I will try doing this over the weekend and if I have any more questions I will report back. Thanks, have a nice weekend!

 

Are you SURE the rotors are good? What you are describing sounds similar to a warped rotor. I would think if it was a wheel speed sensor the ABS light would be on. Like Thermo said the dash light for it could be burnt out, but that is very unlikely, but 'ya never know.

 

hey everyone, I didn't have the time to get the car looked at over the weekend but I did want to update you and add a little more info. The abs light does light up when you turn it to the on position so its not a burnt out light. Also my brakes did that to me again and I got to thinking. Most of the times this happens I am at low speeds and a lot of the time it happens when turning to the left. Examples are my driveway or parking lots. I don't know if this info is helpful at diagnosing it or not but thought I would add that in. Also how would you go about checking or seeing if you have a warped rotor? If they are warped, can you normally set under the car and see its not straight? Alright, thanks!l

 

Jagman, if you have a warped rotor, it is easy to figure out. Get the car up to 60 MPH and then do a decent slowdown to 40ish MPH. Did the steering wheel wobble back and forth. If yes, then you have a warped rotor. if you can brake at a decent rate and the steering wheel is nice and solid (ie, can keep control of the car using a single finger), then your rotors are true (ie, straight).

Since you mention that the problem seems to always happen when you are turning left, this can be 2 things that I can think of. The more unlikely situation is that someone has done some brake work for you and they got the hose caught behind something and it is getting pinched or the like and it is causing your system to respond uncharacteristic. The more likely situation is that your left front wheel speed sensor is getting shorted out and the computer is thinking that the wheel is locked up and is then using the ABS system to attempt to bring the wheel back up to speed. But, because it is actually turning, it is just pulsing the brake system, allowing you to feel it in the pedal. Pull the front wheel and look at the wiring going from the spindle to the firewall. Odds are, you will find where the wiring has some damage to it and you can see some exposed copper. If this is the case and you want to fix it yourself, let me know and I can step you through what you will need to do.

 

I know its been a long time since I started this thread but I have been driving it like it is and am still having this problem. My dad hasn't had time to help me out with it. Its getting bad enough now maybe he will. I have been searching posts for these misfire codes. I thought it could be a coil because it seemed it started when going up hills, now it is when I have to give it alittle extra gas. It acts like slipping of gears which worried me but since it acted like it wanted to die on me the other day it makes me think about these misfire codes I got. I did see something about break booster causing misfire codes? My codes I got are P0300, P0301, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P1316, P1111 I really do appreciate your help. I hope I can get down to the cause of these problems and get my dad to help me get it running the way it should be,thanks!

 

Jagman, based on the number of misfire codes you are getting, I want you to open up the hood of your car and look on the passenger side of the motor. You should see where 6 wires all come to meet at the same point and are bolted to the top of the motor. Remove that bolt, clean up all those rings there to get them back to completely silver on both sides of the lug and then put the bolt back in place with all the lugs attached. See how the motor runs then.

From the sounds of things, you are getting random misfires as you are getting misfires on all the coils (except #2). So, this is telling me that you either have a ground issue with the coils or you are starting to have a fuel pump issue. Granted, when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? If you are not sure when, I would start there and see how things go after that. A bad fuel pump will also show itself with the car starting by taking a few number of turns of the engine before the motor will catch.

If you need more help, let me know.

 

We are unable to find what you are talking about being bolted to the top of the motor with the 6 wires. I have an 04 X-Type with the 3.0, but we are probably the ones that just can't find it Would there be any certain part name I could look for in the JTIS to see what exactly we are looking for? Also an update on the other issues mentioned. My car starts right up and I would say the fuel filter has been replaced within the last year. I will wait to hear back and go from there, thanks again,

 

Thermo, any more pointers for us if how to find this, would like to be able to get my dad to check it out tomorrow. Thanks!

 

Any others tips for us it find this Thermo? I'd like to have my dad check it out tomorrow if all possible. Thanks!

 

Sorry for double post, was in bad area and didn't think it posted. I can't seem to figure out how to delete it within the app.

 

Jagman, if you look in the JTIS in the wiring diagrams, you want to find figure 3.2 and you will see the ground point I am talking about (labeled G8AL for early 04 vehicles or G17AS for later 04's). If you open the hood and walk over to the passenger wheel (standing on the side of the car), the ground point will be right there in front of you on the fender or engine for the earlier 04 vehicles or for the later 04 vehicles, it is on the generator bracket on the side of the motor near the front bumper. You will see 7 black wires all going to the same spot (6 from the coils, 1 from the noise capacitor).

The other thing that I would try is to swap fuses F92 and F82 (if you have an early 04 vehicle, both are 10 amp fuses) in the engine compartment fuse box (would be F10 and F11, which are both 15 amp fuses for the later 04 vehicles). The idea is that if the fuse is starting to go, it is going to be dropping voltage which is going to affect how well the coil can fire.

The last thing that I would tell you to do is to access the ECU (under the cowl between where the A/C system filter is and the fender of the car). Then you will want to remove the plugs on the ECU and check out the plugs to make sure that they are tight and the pins look to be in good condition (not covered with a brownish grime, but more of a shiny silver color). It is possible that if a little bit of water got into the plug, it can cause the engine to run a little rough and lead to the codes you are seeing. THis would be especially true if you seem to have more idle problems or general roughness after it rains and/or you get the car washed.

 

Okay, Thermo.

Ya gots me on this one. I thought fuses were "GO" or "NO GO".

Period.

Circuit Breakers can be flakey, that is a given. But a friggin' fuse????

You're scaring me.

Never heard of it.

Am an old wireman myself. I guess the question is, "Where do I put the penny now?"

 

Bruce, I have seen where automotive fuses when pushed near their limits for a long time, will actually wear thin (the fuseable link) and will open ever so slightly that they will look good, but will actually have a high resistance to them. A visual look will make you think that the fuse is good as there is no visable damage to the fuse (looks intact) and there is no discoloration. BUt, if you look down near the very edge, you can see where the metal has thinned. I tend to see this in older vehicles where some of the circuits have been pushed pretty hard for a long period of time. This is why they recommend that the fuse be rated for somewhere between 125% and 200% of the expected load. Gives you enough gap that this thinning will not occur, but low enough that even a minor circuit problem will lead to the fuse blowing and protecting the circuit.

As for where to put the penny, I find that you get the best show by taking a longer wrench and going lead to lead on the battery. The penny just makes little things smoke pretty good and maybe something to let you get a nice grilled cheese sandwich made. Not that I have ever seen a wire glowing white hot due to too much current being pulled through it.