Ok guys!! P1647 code/Bank 2 Sensor 2 Need EXACT target!!!!!!!
#1
Ok guys!! P1647 code/Bank 2 Sensor 2 Need EXACT target!!!!!!!
Hey guys!
Got a code pulled off my X from a buddy and he gave me the code P1647 Bank 2 Sensor 2....i know its a O2 sensor, BUT WHICH??!!!! Im not sure on the the exact location and im really really hoping its not on the firewall side.
From what ive gathered, bank 2 is to the right of the crank which would put me with more room to work. Can anyone clarify this?? Please help as im gettin like 220 miles per tank!!!! Somethings def wrong!!!!!
Thanks in advance!!!
Got a code pulled off my X from a buddy and he gave me the code P1647 Bank 2 Sensor 2....i know its a O2 sensor, BUT WHICH??!!!! Im not sure on the the exact location and im really really hoping its not on the firewall side.
From what ive gathered, bank 2 is to the right of the crank which would put me with more room to work. Can anyone clarify this?? Please help as im gettin like 220 miles per tank!!!! Somethings def wrong!!!!!
Thanks in advance!!!
#2
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I <3 X-Type (12-10-2010)
#3
Hi I <3 X-Type I have just had this problem myself. P1647 is bank 2 nearest to radiator, sensor is the highest one under the A/F box. Not easy to get at but can be done. Remove A/F box and mounting frame underneath, disconnect sparking plug connectors on this bank and carfully tie loom out of the way. Sensor connector has grey plug and plugs in just below battery case. There is a grey and black plug, black plug is for lower sensor. These plugs are difficult to unplug because it is hard to get your fingers in there. I managed it without removing battery, but you may have to. You should use a special socket to remove sensor from manifold, but I managed it by carefully tapping down the heat shield until I could access it with a 22mm open ended spanner. I was lucky and mine was not too tight and was not difficult to remove. If you find the space a bit too tight you can gain a bit more by unbolting the air intake horns and pulling them foward a few inches. Reverse the procedure to replace being careful to seat all connectors fully home, and tye wrapping the looms back especially clear of the exhaust. Reset the codes, and you should be good to go.
One thing I would add is get an original Jag sensor, Part no: JC2N3717, I tried a generic one and had to cut off the connector and refit to new one. This part only lasted a day and fault came back. I then had to go through the whole process again. After fitting original Jag part its been ok ever since. Generic sensor was about half the price of the Jag one, but I wont make the same mistake again. Best of luck, I hope you manage to fit it without taking too much skin off your Knuckles! Chris.
One thing I would add is get an original Jag sensor, Part no: JC2N3717, I tried a generic one and had to cut off the connector and refit to new one. This part only lasted a day and fault came back. I then had to go through the whole process again. After fitting original Jag part its been ok ever since. Generic sensor was about half the price of the Jag one, but I wont make the same mistake again. Best of luck, I hope you manage to fit it without taking too much skin off your Knuckles! Chris.
#4
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I <3 X-Type (12-10-2010)
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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I <3 X-Type (12-10-2010)
#7
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#11
Great post by Poglix on how to replace front upstream sensor. First problem I've come across is how to get the air filter box out. I've removed all the screws so it's totally loose but the concertina hoses that connect the box to the air intake horns seem to be glued onto the box at one end and the horns at the other end. How do I disconnect the box from the horns so I can remove it?
Can anyone help please?
Roger
Can anyone help please?
Roger
#12
Hi Roger, I understand your problem, it had me foxed when I first removed my airbox. Unfortunately it is one of those things that is very easy to show to someone but difficult to explain. The part that the intake horns connect to on the front of the airbox detatches from the airbox leaving the horns still attached to the car. The box sort of slides off of this part upward. It is quite a tight fit but once you understand what comes off its easy. I can't really explain it any better than that. Its one of those things that once you have done it once you will wonder why you had a problem. Best of luck with it.
Incidentely mine is still running fine several thousand miles after fitting the genuine part. With no engine light or codes. Getting between 26 and 28 to the gallon. Regards Chris
Incidentely mine is still running fine several thousand miles after fitting the genuine part. With no engine light or codes. Getting between 26 and 28 to the gallon. Regards Chris
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jimborino (05-14-2014)
#13
#14
Hi Roger My car is a 2.5 I think yours is a 2.1, so I am assuming that yours is the same airbox. The answer to your last question is yes the part that the air horns are attached to comes off the airbox and remains with the car. If you hold the little pannel as rigid as you can and pull upward on the airbox it should come off. It only took me less than five minutes to remove the airbox the second time I had to do it. When removing the frame under the airbox be very careful not to bend the wiring looms too much because they quite brittle, I think due to engine heat. I carefully tied mine back out of the way after disconnecting anything in the way, and of course make sure everything goes back exactly where it was, with all connectors fully home. The sensors are much easier to remove if you have the correct socket, but you can tap the heat shield down round the sensor to get an open ended spanner on. If the sensor is seized in the manifold its a different story, you will need the socket then. If the new sensor is not already treated (the Jag ones are) then use copper slip when refitting, and make sure its tight. Do not get copper slip on the sensor nose though it will damage it. It all sounds more difficult than it actually is. Best of luck with it. If you lived a bit nearer I would pop round and give you a hand.
Regards Chris.
Regards Chris.
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jimborino (05-14-2014)
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