Good point, thanks. I went in to talk to the tech, he sounded more optimistic than I did and thought that I could risk the 8-10 mile drive to his shop tomorrow. I didn't see any indication of limp mode, but the smell threw me off. Do you guys think its ok to drive a short distance to the shop?

 

I think you'll be fine but you should take a few precautions first... As always if you smell something burning.... something is probably burning. Its most likely something like antifreeze or oil on the block or exhaust that’s getting hot. Not a real problem there, but if it’s something else like an electrical short, plastic or insulation from the firewall or hood, that could cause more trouble. Maybe throw a fire extinguisher in, just in case, if you feel uneasy.

As far as damaging the car from driving it, I think its safe to say that whatever damage will be done, has been done. As mentioned before, check your oil for anything milky or swirly and watch for white smoke on the exhaust. Don’t confuse a little water vapor for smoke, water vapor will dissipate rapidly and smoke will linger. These are all signs of antifreeze in you oil which would mean head gaskets or a damaged head or block.

In short.... I don't think you'll have a problem. Watch your temp gauge closely and shut the car off if it’s gets too hot, avoid crowded roads and I'd have someone follow just in case.

 

Thanks again stshots, the car played true to your words. I had my wife follow me and watch for smoke or fumes, but nothing. Basically the CEL flashed and now the no cruise came on and off, but the car made it to the shop. No overheating and no smell which leads me to think you are right about the burning off of the coolant on the block or something. I checked the oil and coolant levels and consistency before we left. Everything checked out ok, with no milky texture to the oil. Also, no large white smoke from the exhaust or overheating while driving there, so that gives me hope. Hopefully i'll find out something in the next day or two and keep you guys updated, if nothing else to help out someone else with a similar situation. Thanks again!

 

I may be able to help you out in the future, depending on where you live.

 

If you dont mind, where do you live? Just asking because I am also on the east coast and it would be nice knowing I can bring it to someone who knows the car. Thanks.

 

PM sent.

 

Good to hear you made it well!

I'm going to test my luck and make an early prediction... Could be totally wrong but... I think you are going to get a p0332 code. If so, the knock sensor is bad and that's what caused you CEL and "cruise not available" on your way to the shop. They are mounted right on top of the block and when the coolant leaks from any one of many o-rings there, it pools up an soaks the sensor causing it to fail.

Placing bets now....

But again, just my theory based on my X doing the EXACT same thing.

Good news is that it's only about $50-$100 in parts if you don't buy from the dealer.

Good luck!

 

Well, the suspense is eating away at me... I don't know whether to laugh or cry at this point. Apparently the connector for the code reader was busted up so it took a day to get the part and replace that, and it's now been 3 days without a diagnosis. I'm nervous these guys either don't have any clue what's wrong or it's that bad that there are multiple things gone bad needing diagnosis. Either way I am nervous.

 

Keep us posted. I'm anxious to see what code(s) it brings.

 

Ok, I got my car out of the euro tech shop, he was stalling for whatever reason, it's been over a week and no diagnosis even though I asked him to look at the thermostat, water pump, leaks, etc.. Even if he couldnt read the codes, he could assess the leak, so gave me enough pause to think this guy is tryign to keep the car there as long as he can. Took it right to my friend's house who does car work on the side, right away said the water pump is leaking just as you guys said. Tomorrow he is going to see what is up with the OBDII connector and try to get the codes from the CEL. Hoping there is no engine damage, and the water pump takes care of it. I'll let you know what the codes are soon. Thanks!

 

Ok! the water pump has been replaced and the car is running well, like before now. My friend is going to replace the thermostat just to be sure. I am still left without being able to read codes. A replacement OBD2 connector was wired but it still doesn't read. Looks like I will have to take a trip to the dealer to get that part of this whole ordeal worked out. I am still curious what the codes say, as the CEL hasn't (and may not) go out until we get the codes cleared right?

 

Queen, as long as the error cause is gone, after 5 starts of the car (with the associated few minute drive), on the 6th start the CEL light should go out. The car is programmed that way to let the driver know that the error condition has cleared and it is ok to drive the car again. So, do a few drives and keep a count on the number of time that you start the car. That should give you an idea of what the status of the car is.

 

Thanks Thermo. Well the CEL and limp mode came back on after taking it for a longer drive. My friend is going to still change the thermostat but I'm not holding out much hope. Looks like I'm gonna stuck getting it assessed at the dealer, along with why we can't read codes.

 

Thermo, will the CEL and limp mode kick in each time before the 6th time of driving, or just CEL? I've left the car at my friend's place and I don't think he's driven it more than 2-3 times for less than 5 miles each time. Just curious that maybe it hasn't been driven long enough. Thanks again.

 

Queens, limp mode is not necessarily tied to the CEL. I've reset the CEL and had limp on within 5 minutes because its related to the sensors directly. When your car gets readings (or lack there of) form key sensors that are out of range it will go into limp mode. Short answer... If its going into limp, something is wrong.

If the thermostat isn't working, the heater wont heat up very quickly and your temp gauge will show some interesting things. If you want to know if its working just watch the temp gauge. The way that thermostats work is that once they reach operating temp, they open up and allow the flow of coolant. If its not working and stuck closed, you will overheat. If its not working and stuck open the car will reach operating temp very slowly because its cooling the engine before it ever heats up.

Save yourself the cost of the dealer and go buy a set of upper plenum intake gaskets for less than $20, (Amazon.com: Fel-Pro Ms96494 Plenum Gasket Set: Automotive) take it to your friend who did the water pump, remove the upper intake and look for coolant under there. Buy a set of spark plugs for a few bucks and call it a tune up to justify the expense. If there is coolant present, refer to my earlier posts.

There aren't many things I can think of that would cause your car to go into limp mode from a slow coolant leak. Its either a drowned sensor, or another unrelated problem.

 

Thanks stshots. I relayed my friend what you suggested and he was agreeing that could be it. Before I dump any serious money into this though, I am gonna get the codes read at the dealer. I'll let you know what I get. Hope they will do a diagnostic without forcing any work on me.... I'm not great at getting tough with these guys.

 

I doubt they will try to force anything on you. Just make it clear when you go in that you just want the codes read. For the sake of trying, you should try Auto Zone or Oreilys to get the codes read. They do it for free. If it still wont read, you're not out anything.

 

well this code read problem thing surfaced when trying to figure out why i am getting CEL and limp. I had the euro tech and my friend try to read the codes and they can't. something isnt responding between the ECU and reader. So that is what is forcing me to the dealer, hopefully they can read the codes right from the ECU.

 

All a reader gets you are generic codes, but it won't read a transmission code or anything that is specific to our cars, Jag will likely charge you either .5 or an hour to do a diagnostic

 

That's a relief, I figured they would have more in depth diagnostic tools to get around the problems with the generic reader. That's the only reason I'm resorting to the dealer. I can handle an hour worth of labor charges! I just want to get the car running back to normal and worry about the OBD2 connecton afterwards if I can help it. All you guys have been such a huge help in keeping me informed. I really appreciate it.