1: Overheats in stop and go traffic; idling and driving too long on the city streets. (Fine when driving highway speeds: 40 mph and above)
I replaced the thermostat and coolant tempature sensor.
It appears my Fan Control Modular is fried. My fans would actually come on after the car overheated and when I turned on the A/C but now they do not come on at all.
So if anyone knows where I can purchase a fan control modular I would be very happy, since the dealership no longer sales it separate. I would have purchase the whole fan assembly and a harness ( the new fan assembly does not fit the 2002s therefore you have to purchase a harness.).
2:Last weekend when I would brake my car would jerk, the ABS light and the engine light came on and I got the DSC System Fault message.
I read the code and got C1175; which based on my research it means my rear left ABS speed sensor has failed.
Can anyone confirm that my definition of code C1175 is correct before I go out and purchase a replacement?
Thanks for any assistance on my issues, as I really want to take a spin before the summer is gone and simply enjoy my ride. Thanks

 

LRL, unfortunately, with your overheating issue, you are somewhat stuck between a rock and a hard place. You may want to look at an auto recycler and seeing what they would want for a used controller and possibly a fan assembly. I'm sure it would be less than what the dealership wants. There has been some talk about being able to replace the internal components of the fan controller, but to the best of my knowledge, no one has successfully done this. I am waiting on a failed controller to do my own dissection. So, if you do replace yours, could I get your old one. I will pay for the shipping. Please let me know so I can hopefully come up with a solution for everyone.

As for the wheel speed sensor issue. Yes, it is the left hand rear wheel that is your issue. What I would tell you to do is to remove the wheel and then remove the wheel speed sensor. Now, using a flashlight, look down the hole and see if you spot some teeth (like what you would see on a bike sprocket). If you don't see any teeth, the problem is not the speed sensor itself, but the wheel bearing. The toothed gear is known to fail on our cars. if you see the teeth, then I have a way to test the sensor. let me know and we will get you taken care of.

 

You can use this website to find parts near you. They don't list a fan controller in the drop down menu but you can fill out the request form to find the parts you need. Used Car Parts Locator Used Auto Truck Salvage Yards

 

How hard could it be to wire in a relay operated by a temperature switch?

 

avt, you would have to tap in a new sensor for the temp and then set up a voltage divider network to cause it to trip at the right time unless you used a true temp switch, then it would be just a matter of going from a power, through the switch, to the actuation side of the relay. The only down side to this is if the motor is cold, then the A/C system is not going to work quite right as the fans are not going to pull cold air through the condenser right after the car is started up.

 

Thermo, thanks so much I will have my mechanic do as you said in regards to the ABS speed sensor and let you know how it goes. As for the fan controller by all means you can have it once I replace it, which hopefully will be soon. If you can do as you said all the better for those who came after as this appears to be a very common issue with our jags. Plus it seems at one time the dealers did sale the fan controller separate but no more.. go figure..... So I will let you once I get the parts and have it changed out. Thanks again!

 

Razkid, Thanks I'll check it out.. fingers crossed as I hope they have it. The salvage yard I used in Cali did not and all they salvage there is Jags and Land Rovers.

 

LRL, give Walt and Verns (Truck Parts - Walt and Vern's Truck Parts - Home) AUto Wrecking a call. They will either have it on their lot or know where to get what you are after. They are up in Buckley, WA, but they will ship down to you. I have used them and they are good people and will treat you right.

 

Hi Thermo,
Sadly my mechanic is ghost so it looks as if I will have to check my ABS sensor myself. Of course I've never done it before so if you, please tell me how and what tools I need. Thanks.

 

LRL, checking the sensor is easy. First, you will need to remove the sensor from the car. This should take nothing more than an 8mm socket to remove the bolt, undo the connector on the sensor and then pull the sensor straight out. Once you get the sensor out, using a flashlight, look down inside the hole where the sensor was. You should see metal teeth in there. No teeth, that is your problem. This would not surprise me as it is a "common" issue with our cars. If you have the teeth there, then what you will need to do is to rest the sensor on the edge of a table (with the part that was hidden in the spindle of the car at the edge of the table). Now, using a large screw driver or piece of metal (need a piece of steel about 1/4" diameter at a minimum), pass that by the end of the sensor when you have a multimeter connected to the two pins of the sensor (set the multimeter to VDC). What you are looking for is the multimeter to jump up as the screwdriver is passed by the end of the sensor. The amount that the multimeter jumps is relative to how fast you move the metal and how close you come. Obviously, you don't want to hit the sensor with a large piece of steel, but you do want to get fairly close. So, get as close as you are comfortable doing. You can do this over and over, getting a little closer each time. Having an analog multimeter is better, but most modern day multimeters are digital. So, hopefully you have one with a quick acting scale on the bottom of the screen. If you don't see the multimeter jump, then bad sensor.

If the multimeter jump when testing the sensor and you see the teeth in the hole, then your problem is a wiring issue or an ABS module issue. But, odds are, you will find that the teeth are missing.

 

Hi Thermo, I have my rear left wheel off but not sure which is the abs sensor. I don't see the bolt that 8mm would fit. So do u happen to have pics? Sorry to ask but this is my first time trying to fix my cat by myself. Thanks.

 

LRL, let me take a look at my kitty and see what I can do to help you. If you see a set of wires on the suspension near the rotor, that is the ABS sensor. There should only be a single set of wires there. You may see another set a little bit further in that goes to a black box that has 2 long arms on it. This would be the height sensor for the headlights if you have the auto leveling feature for your car.

 

Hi Thermo, I have great news regarding my overheating! I was able to get a used Fan Control Module and as of today my car is no longer overheating. I keep my faulty one so if you still want it it yours. Sadly my ABS issue is still with us. I had the rear driverside ABS sensor replaced; however when I brake my pedal goes down far and there's a jerking motion when I push down on my brakes. My mechanic thinks it's my master cyclinder your thoughts on what it can be? I am still getting code C1175 ever after clearing it. Thanks.

 

LRL, first off, the master cylinder will not cause a single wheel to not respond correctly. If you were having issues with all 4 wheels, then maybe. But, a single wheel, no way. The jerking motion is the ABS kicking in trying to make that one wheel spin at the same speed as the others (sounds like the ABS doesn't see the wheel speed), therefore it is pulsing the brake pressure to that wheel. As for what your problem is, I would first look down the hole where the ABS sensor mounts and see if you can spot the teeth inside the hole. No teeth from the ring gear that is in there and that will be your problem (common issue with our cars). After that, I would tell you to hand over hand the wiring coming off of the ABS sensor. There have been instances where this wiring has gotten damaged, leading to the signal not making it to the ABS module. You can get a new pigtail from the Jaguar dealership that goes from inside the body of the car to the sensor (as I recall those are the locations). Follow the wires back and see what you can find. Odds are, if you are going to have an issue, it will be in the 3 feet of wiring between the sensor and where it goes through the body of the car or right where the wire passes through the body of the car.

 

Thermo, I'll have him check that this week. If it is the wheel bearings, replacing that should solve my issue? I did have to replace the support bar to the tire as well as the rubber was gone. I'll let you know if it's the wheel bearings (I do hope so as the master cylinder is not cheap.) ..so close to getting my Kitty back on the road.. I do miss driving it. Thanks for all your help.

 

LRL, yes, if you have no gear in the rear speed sensor hole, the new bearing will fix that. But, like I say, it can also be a wiring issue. Due to living up north, the weather can be hard on the wiring back there.

 

Hi Thermo, Happy New Year. Sorry I'm just getting back regarding my Abs issue, but it's been quite busy with the holidays. Anyway it was not my ball bearings but the "CV Joint". The ring was rusted and snapped in two. Had to purchase the replacement "Axle" part from Jag...my cat is back on the road...well a least until last night when I believe my starter went. So working to get that fixed now and my cat should be up and running again. Thanks for all your help with my issues and I just glad to have my cat back on the road!

 

LRL, not a problem. Like the others said, check your battery first, then your battery cables. If all that is good, then go after the starter. Normally the starters in our cars are pretty tough and don't fail.

 

Thermo, thanks!!! It was actually the starter. The tow guy came out, jumped my car no start. Then he tapped the starter with a "Pipe" car started. He said it appears to be my starter. It went a little hay-wire with all the systems appearing to have failed and went into severe limp mode (could go no more than 10 mph.) but the tow guys said that should clear in a bit as it was from trying to start the car so many times. I stopped and started the car and on the third try it reset itself and I got it to the mechanic. So it was a bad starter and my battery was also weak (last battery change was in 2007), so I had both replaced and within 4 hrs the cat was back on the road. Thanks again as always for all your help and I must post a pic of Zircon soon.. just glad he back out and roaring!