Hi,
On my 2.0 V6 x-type. I have had engine light come up. I managed to read the codes with my Torque Pro and it reads P1000 and P1647.

As I understood P1647 is Bank 2 upstream (grey connector) sensor before I will buy one I wanted to check.

I have been watching voltages on my torque pro. I can see two voltages I guess it is for two sensors upsrean and downstream. At cold start both read 0V once engine heats up and when driving and accelerating I can see voltages going up to 0.8V. During around constant 70MHP both voltages around 0.1V
It seems that both sensors are working (voltages go up to 0.8V) but code does not get reset. I was wondering if somebody can suggest if I can trust voltage readings from Torque Pro and also I was wondering if I buy and replace one censor should I also buy another one(downstream) since both give similar voltage readings? Or should I trust Torque pro and replace only upstream sensor?
Thanks

 

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Have you cleared the code and verified it comes back ?
The O2 sensors are constant voltage so the measurement is meaningless.
The best bet is to look at and compare STFTs and LTFTs on the two banks when your engine's warm.

 

Hi steveinfrance,
Thanks for replay. Yes. I have cleared codes several times ans same two codes always come up. After refreshing codes on Torque Pro.
Mykhaylo

 

It probably is the sensor then.
If you look at STFTs at tickover + 2500 rpm you should see straight away if bank 2 isn't tracking - at least that will confirm the ECM is taking appropriate action and inhibiting closed loop for that bank.
What sort of mileage? If it's reasonably high you might want to think about replacing both upstream sensors.

 

Car mileage is about 55K around 3K ago I have had a new bank 1 downstream sensor replaced. The car has had engine replaced some time ago, I was told that the new engine is around 40K at that time but I do not have any way to say if it is true or not.

 

That's not much mileage for an O2 sensor to fail.
Have a look at the STFTs and report back.

 

I have tried it and STFT1 and STFT2 both 0% nothing seems to get these moving.
LTFT1 around 6-7% and LTFT2 around 1-3%

I guees it is open loop. Does it mean that whenever at least one sensor is our both STFT1 and STFT2 default to 0%? In this case how I would be able to find if second sensor is OK?

 

I've just had same code on my 2.5, no matter how many times I cleared it, it returned. New genuine sensor off Ebay (£65) cured the problem.
It was a pig to get out and in the end I let the local garage do it.
All ok now and mpg back to normal.
It was the one on the front bank under the air filter.

 

Odd that bank 1 STFT doesn't move - I understood that only the 'bad' bank stayed in open loop.
I'd say you've got enough evidence to change the bank 2 upstream sensor and see what happens. It would be most unusual for both banks to go at the same time.

 

Thank!
I was wondering if both banks do not seem to respond is there any other potential problem?

 

I don't know enough to say. I do know Torque reads STFTs on my car with no problems which suggests something s not right.
Hopefully one of the experts can help here.

 

Here is how I read it, The front 02s (s1) will cycle from + to -, should be below 10% + - for the stft/ltft, + it's adding fuel(longer pulse),lean - it's subtracting fuel, rich (shorter pulse), They should cycle between .04 to .08 Volts or approximately 1 volt, The RR 02s (s2)after it's in closed loop shouldn't cycle more than a few %s, they set the parameters for the front 02s( If the front 02 reaches it's max limit +or- the RR 02 moves the parameter to compensate so the front 02 can adjust the fuel mixture + or -.! So the stft will cycle fast until it reaches either max adjustment OR reach Stichometer (14,5 to 1 ratio), if it doesn't, ltft will adjust the perameter (only so far) so it can, UNLESS there is a problem like a vacuum leak, bad sensor/wire, bad injector or any other components. Then a different code should be set for that component or part eg.p0174/p0175 (lean/rich) or what ever.
FYI-- high IATs (intake air temp) could mean a stuck EGR valve, if open hot gases can throw off 02s because to much exhaust in the intake depletes the oxygen mixture an 02s only sense oxygen not C02s thinking it's lean.
Sorry for long ramble! I got to much time on my hands,HA

 

Have a look at this thread - similarity is BOTH HO2S read zero. Worth a quick check of fuse + relay.

 

Can you point me to the thread?

 

Sorry, didn't notice I hadn't pasted the URL
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-robins-92255/

Here you go.

 

Hi,
I have bought sensor now. I found that old sensor has cable damaged it was probably touching either fan or cable. I spoke to the garage and they told me they can replace it for me. But they also told me that they have some special software same as main Jag dealers to calibrate sensors. It is quite expensive procedure. I have never heard of such software and if there is any benefit in calibrating lambda sensors?

Ok. I wend to a different garage and got it fitted code is clear and both STFT seems fine now. It was cable to the sensor broken. Thanks to all for help.

 

Can you show us the location of the sensor

 

Hi,
Sure,
Here is location shown:
Jaguar X Type Changing O2 Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2