Rebuilding X Type transfer case
#22
Transfer Case Seal #
I just did this seal replacement after having pulled the stub shaft out to replace the oil pan gasket. it took some time to find the right seal. I used an arbor press and some sockets to press the seals in. Easy if you have some patients and experience. The seal # is SKF 10181 26x 40 x 8. $13 investment.
#23
#27
#28
The 02/03 transfer case came with a viscuous coupling and after 2004 that was eliminated. The later TC's used a DSC system to control traction so I don't know how it would respond with the viscuous coupling which was used to distribute and redirect power to the wheels.
Internally they are quite different but externally they are a bolt on.
Internally they are quite different but externally they are a bolt on.
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Artax (05-29-2017)
#29
#30
You can get the oil seals cobra transmission, cheaper than from jaguar esp if you are going to replace all of them.: https://cobratransmission.com/jaguar...l-kit-803156-1
I had replaced the transfer case with a used case and had the leak at the axle shaft output seal. I had to then replace transfer case axle output seal and the link shaft and it seems to be holding up. The link shafts seal bearing surface had a etched groove where the seal lip contacted the shaft.
I am currently in the process of ??rebuilding (junking it more likely!!)the old transfer case that I had removed from the car, oil had all leaked out, the bearing were shot and even some of the gear teeth are missing small chunks of metal. Taper roller bearings are used on all three shafts , the axial
end play, bearing preload and torque setting which are critical are unknown.
One tool I found indispensable for the impossible bolt was C-shaped 13 mm wrench from harbor freight for $3.
Sid
I had replaced the transfer case with a used case and had the leak at the axle shaft output seal. I had to then replace transfer case axle output seal and the link shaft and it seems to be holding up. The link shafts seal bearing surface had a etched groove where the seal lip contacted the shaft.
I am currently in the process of ??rebuilding (junking it more likely!!)the old transfer case that I had removed from the car, oil had all leaked out, the bearing were shot and even some of the gear teeth are missing small chunks of metal. Taper roller bearings are used on all three shafts , the axial
end play, bearing preload and torque setting which are critical are unknown.
One tool I found indispensable for the impossible bolt was C-shaped 13 mm wrench from harbor freight for $3.
Sid
#31
I can't help with the pre-loads of the 'deep' internal bearings, but the output pinion bearings should be pre-loaded to 15 lb.in (For new bearings) before the output shaft housing is re-installed. That's JTIS spec.
#32
#34
#35
Well, they're in two totally different settings and they deal with different torque levels, plus the rear diff has a hypoid drive through 90 degrees whereas the front diff is pinion/spur wheel driven. Hypoid gears, with their sliding tooth drive, have particularly high demands of their lub oil.
Then there's the autobox version with the front diff in that fluid.
All that and yet the front diff must be among the least troublesome pieces of machinery in the X Type. I can't recall hearing of any problems on this Forum or the UK one
Then there's the autobox version with the front diff in that fluid.
All that and yet the front diff must be among the least troublesome pieces of machinery in the X Type. I can't recall hearing of any problems on this Forum or the UK one
Last edited by astromorg; 05-06-2016 at 05:10 PM.
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Patterson (05-06-2016)
#36
Well ! the transfer case i put in ( used from Junk yard, they had pulled out the link shaft with the axle and damaged the seals) is leaking transmission oil, from the internal link shaft seals. I am going to have to replace them. I have the original transfer case to experiment with, and today did remove the culprit seals and put in the new replacement seals, it is relatively easy using a hydraulic press. The seals the fit perfectly: part # SKF 10181 ( 26 X 40 X 8 mm) available from rockauto.com for about $6 each. So now have to remove the transfer case from the car, dismantle it and replace the seals. I will post photos if the site lets me.
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Artax (05-29-2017)
#37
The nice thing is that the seals themselves only cost $6. But, most people do not have a hydroponic press. Or even a hydraulic one. I would love to have one. I have 135K miles on my X and I wonder how the wheel bearings are doing. They don't make noise now but, Should I take it on a roadtrip?
Everything spins pretty sweet on this X. I just want to be ahead of the game and do it before it becomes a friction issue. The best thing is to find a shop that you can trust. I've had poor luck in that area lately, but I'm hoping for a change of luck with a new shop that I found. Whitey's Automotive in Scottsdale Az
Everything spins pretty sweet on this X. I just want to be ahead of the game and do it before it becomes a friction issue. The best thing is to find a shop that you can trust. I've had poor luck in that area lately, but I'm hoping for a change of luck with a new shop that I found. Whitey's Automotive in Scottsdale Az
#38
Wheel bearings are still good for a few thousand miles from when they become noisy.
I have finally finished rebuilding the transfer case with new internal oil seals etc, and put it back on the car, it seems to holding up well so far, no noise or leak yet after couple of hundred miles. Will post again after caouple ot thousand miles. The rebuild process was easier than taking the part of the car and putting it back in!
I have finally finished rebuilding the transfer case with new internal oil seals etc, and put it back on the car, it seems to holding up well so far, no noise or leak yet after couple of hundred miles. Will post again after caouple ot thousand miles. The rebuild process was easier than taking the part of the car and putting it back in!
#39
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