I think the best explanation for the upper part of that bracket is a sadistic engineer. Sadistic engineers deliberately design things to torture those they know will have to work on what they designed. It's how they get their revenge on humanity.


I've run into their twisted creations more than I care to remember.

 

All this is reasonable, and logically argued. I agree that the probability of such catastrophic failure is remote. Always possible, yet remote. I would imagine the most likely outcome would be flex in the pinion case housing itself.


However, it does not explain why a bracket dismissed by some as no more than a heat shield has to be made from 5mm thick steel when other x-type heat shields are made of tinny shiny multifaceted sheet (specially designed to lacerate your hand). It also does not explain why this component has been deliberately fabricated from two relatively heavy pieces of metal when at the design stage you would expect engineers to look for production cost savings.


I am a great believer in the evolutionary theory approach to modern engineering - if it was built a certain way it must have been for a good reason.


For a complete explanation I suspect we need to consult Ford and specifically Visteon, who designed the darn thing in the first place.


I will endeavour to replace my own bracket exactly as designed and if do give up and cut it I will spot weld the two halves back together.

 

The engine is Ford, the transmission Jatco, the transfer case Visteon. I wonder who designed the anti-roll bracket. The engine engineer doesn't care about the anti-roll bracket at all. Jatco makes sure the transmission to engine design is solid. Visteon makes sure the transfer case to transmission design is solid. Then Jaguar makes sure the engine/transmission/transfer case/car design is solid. Did Jatco require that the anti roll bracket to use the specific engine/transfer case mounts it uses? Or did Jag just design the bracket to use mounting points already on the engine and transfer case?


This might be a case of multiple entities causing an overbuilt end result. That happened on a construction project where I work; the original engineering firm included a margin, each subsequent engineering sub-contractor adds more margin on, and the end result is so overbuilt it's ridiculous. We have a modular electrical PCM building, it's like a trailer house, it sits on concrete columns that are about four feet in diameter sticking out of the ground about six feet. The columns go underground over ten feet and are full of rebar. There is a column about every eight feet under the building. Imagine what a trailer house sitting on a super massive foundation like that looks like. I think those foundation columns could take a direct nuclear hit and still be standing.

 

The upper part of that bracket definitely would have a heat shield effect, the rear exhaust manifold is right above the transfer case. Even an uninsulated piece of metal like that will cut a lot of the heat radiated off the exhaust manifold. I use simple pieces of thin stainless steel sheet for that purpose on my engine dyno, they work very well to keep radiated exhaust heat off of parts you don't want hot.

 

Probably the same engineer who specified there should also be a 4mm thick steel steady bracket (C2S24716) bolted to the sump pan and supporting the driveshaft end of the transfer box??


Each of us is entitled to his opinion, but I would prefer to give the benefit of any doubt to the manufacturer.

 

Having just done the rear valve cover gasket and plugs, this is my next project.

I'm a bit confused as it seems to be relatively easy for some and not for others, but am looking forward to getting under there.

I ordered the bearings from Amazon, but didn't order an oil seal. Should I?

Also, I don't have an impact wrench. so does this mean that I am not going to be able to adjust the pre-load or even get the bearings out?

Is that because the wheels and whole drivetrain rotate when it is on stands?

Can I hold the brakes on or something, or do I really need an impact wrench?

Thanks.

 

You can get the bearings out without an impact wrench but won't be able to press the races out and in without a good shop press.

It was easy for me but I've been wrenching on cars for a very long time.

 

Thanks ltmax. I've had cases where I was trying to tighten a nut on to a spinning shaft, which wasn't easy, and figured it would be impossible in this case if the shaft in the TC is moving around.


So you could get the nut on there with hand tools and didn't need a new oil seal?

Thanks.

 

Reusing the old oil seal is fine and hand tools will work ok.

 

Well, I got it all done and the car is WAY smoother. There were big chunks missing out of the bearings.

I was all ready with a big assortment of adapters and universal joints and various other wrenches, and I STILL could not even see those hidden bolts... After futzing around under there for an hour or so, I decided to use a hacksaw to remove the extra length of those two bolts on the right, and then pry the roll resistor bracket over and off, which worked very well in my case. It was not difficult at all. It wasn't too hard to get it back on either. So that is another kludge option that people may want to consider.

As I expected, the wheel started to turn when I tried to get the big nut off. I used that to my advantage and propped a torque wrench on it and then turned the wheel with both hands, which got it off. I used a reverse process to re-torque it on, but had to keep taking it off to check the tightness. I did have to go out and buy a new socket for the nut. Nothing seemed to fit quite right though. I ended up getting a 1 1/16" socket I think. 27mm seemed slightly too big.

A shop charged me $100 to get the races and bearing off and press on my new ones, but they had the tool that I don't.

So far, so good, and I am looking forward (or not) to the next project. A leaking oil pan gasket....

 

Congratulations on getting it fixed, it's a pretty complex job so I'm glad you got it all back together and running smoothly. Paying $100 for the bearing press job was a very good price.

You may kick yourself down the road as that oil pan gasket is really simple to change with the transfer case out of the way but may be much more of a pain with the transfer case in place.

 

Yeah, I am not too thrilled about that. I may try to snug the bolts a fraction of a turn and see if that does anything. I may also try some leak stop snake-oil, but I am not sure. I have used that with success on another car I have that I have put over 170,000 miles on since I bought it (now well over 200,000), so am not too afraid of that stuff.

Also, high mileage oil may help.

It is not a serious leak. Yet.

You know, when I was reading through this thread before I swapped the bearings I saw that you did the whole thing in an hour start to finish, so I thought, jeeze, it can't be that bad if he got it done in an hour.

Now, I think you meant a day, not an hour.

Also, I am now wondering if a missing t/c air deflector doesn't add to or cause the t/c to fail.

Mine didn't have one, and I didn't even know that it was missing until I read about them on the forums.

Has anyone had a t/c go out on them when they still had one of those air deflectors on the car?

 

Sorry, I meant an hour just to pull the transfer case bearings out and press in the new ones after it's out of the car but dropping the drive-shaft and pulling the back part of the transfer case off that has the bearings that needed replacement wasn't too bad compared to removing the entire assembly.

I don't think it's heat that causes the bearings to fail, mine looked like they had water damage or lack of lubrication. I think the fluid slowly seeps out over time and you never know it causing all the problems.

 

Oh, sorry about that -- I misread it.

Anyway, I think I'll add an air deflector to my list of odds and ends that I want to fix-up. I was thinking that the heat from the exhaust, lack of oil volume, and mechanical demands on the part add up to heat that oil way up, causing it to disappear more easily.

That air deflector is probably there to keep it marginally cooler, so it couldn't hurt.

OTOH, I will be changing that sealed for life oil in another year or so, (God willing it is still running well) so perhaps it won't make much difference.

 

I have had 04, and 05 jaguar x-type, 04 never had any issues 05, has oil pan gasket seal leak and failing transfer case, after full checkup at jaguar dealership, did research for the last 4-5 months and bought parts> Hight ticket item labor, even more so than parts. The cost to fix including parts would exceed KELLY BLUE BOOK value!! So if anyone is interested.

I bought a transfer case from reputable company:TILGHMANS AUTO PARTS in Jobstown, New Jersey, on 20th November 2014. It is GRADE A 45K Miles, original receipt included will sell at exact cost. Vehicle VIN # SAJWA51A35WE52898

I have the car itself listed and parts i bought on both Craigslist:Columbus,Ohio 2005 Jaguar X-Type 3.0L, v6, *Rare VDP edition, needs transfer case and Craigslist: Cincinnati, Ohio.2005 Jaguar X-Type 3.0L, v6, *Rare VDP edition, needs transfer case.

The transfer case i bought is Jaguar X-Type Transfer Case (2005-2008) GRADE A: 45,000 Miles look for the same in Columbus. I have had similar budget breaking!!! experiences with a range rover....try replacing the air suspension out of warranty!. So it helps when someone shares advice or parts. If you are in Ohio, or have contacts feel free to contact me and and have them inspected.