I have an 03 2.5 automatic tranny X. So far I am getting 'bout 27 mpg on the highway @ 85 mph and 19-20 mpg around town... I am satisfied..I own a Jag,its great coachwork,real wood dash and other interior parts and super soft Ivory leather interior...
I am not stuck in a plasticky Vinylly Smelling Honda or Subaru and gladly trade off for the luxury and panache of my baby Jag over 5-10 mpg of a Japanese beater!
So Whats YOUR Mileage..please share,all engines and fuel types ,European ,North American or Down Under!

 

I have a 3.0 automatic, and on a recent all highway trip I got a hair less than 24mpg, with the cruise control on 75 mph all the way. I get around 17 in day to day driving around town and some highway. I only use 87 octane gas, because around me the 89 octane is thirty cents more.....I'm cheap.....Mike

 

Mine runs on LPG so 25 miles is 3.95 AUD and 2.98 USD

 

Mine's an '03 3.0 automatic, with 118K miles. I use Shell v-tec 93 octane or Gulf ethanol free 93 octane "pure gas." In summer with a/c on, I get around 27 mpg hwy/ 19 mpg city. In winter, maybe 1-2 mpg better. I've found if I use 91 or less octane -mileage suffers by 1-2 mpg.

 

My Canadian-market 05 Sportwagon does 9.1 litres per 100 kms on the highway (no idea what that is for the US gallon - perhaps it's time for the US to join the metric world?)...I love this car and it has given not a single problem from the day of delivery (I have every invoice).
But in contrast, my 07 XK, which is almost unbelievably fast, easily does 7.9 litres per 100 kms on the highway, both cars on 91 octane Shell. It's almost an economy car! (And again, zero problems of any kind). Both cars are in British Racing Green...it amazes me that people still buy BMW's which are as common here as cockroaches. I am a recovering BMW owner - easily the worst car I have owned.

 

2005 3.0 Automatic and I get about 22 highway/ 17 city. Wish it was better. Thought about possibly doing a tuneup to see if it made it any better, but from the looks of these posts it really won't improve much haha.

 

Hi!
I have an X-Type 2004, 3.0 Manual Petrol (Gasoline).
On a 100-mile Motorway (Freeway) journey at 80 MPH I get around 32 MPG.
In an absolute sticky daily town traffic (stop-and-go), I get around 12 MPG.
I average about 17 MPG when going 5 miles to the town and 5 miles back home, and if I take a motorway route from the town (20 miles), I get about 25 MPG.
It actually costs me just a bit more to go on a motorway 20 miles than in heavy traffic for 5 miles.
And my front nearside (right) wheel bearing has been noisy for about a year now and after I replace it, I think the mileage should improve.

 

It is indicating 17+mpg in the city at present. Haven't had a chance to measure the highway mileage yet. I think winter will be better also. Using premium fuel.

 

Indications of Miles per Gallon differ in the US and in the UK because:
1 Gallon in the US is 3.785 Liters
1 Gallon in the UK is 4.546 Litres

1 Liter in the US = 1 Litre in the UK (incredible)

Therefore:
1 MPG in the UK is 0.8327 MPG in the US
1 MPG in the US is 1.2009 MPG in the UK

So my MPGs stated earlier in this post were the ones for the UK and I correct the post as follows with reflect of the US:

Motorway (UK) / Freeway (US) - 32.0 MPG (UK) / 26.6 MPG (US)
Heavy Traffic (UK) / Traffic Jam (US) - 12.0 MPG (UK) / 10.0 MPG (US)

It is a big difference, isn't it?

One would think that these Globalization Corporate Giants know about this issue, but I seriously doubt so.
They are as stupid as all super rich idiots.
All they care about are profits and making the lives of us Jaguar Enthusiasts more and more difficult.

Paul

 

Are you quoting the trip reading or actual tank to tank filling?

 

I have never bothered with the tank to tank fillings (I would have to be a bit more wealthy to do that ).
It costs me about £70 to fill up the tank of my 3.0 liter, I have done that only like 4 times in the past 2.5 years - I am only filling up for £15 or so and that gets me to the town and back maybe 3 times - it is a thirsty bugger for the UK - my 1971 Pontiac GTO 6.4 Liter V8 was much cheaper to run in California in 1990, believe me that!
All these figures are what show on my trip readings, that's all.
Paul

 

Go LPG £49 a tank cheaper at the moment

 

I will go LPG next year.
I need to make sure first that my jag is worth of investing into it.
I am having a thorough checkup scheduled for Monday October 03 at an independent Jaguar specialist - he will be replacing my front offside wheel bearing (front right) and afterwards he will do a health check.
I am preparing to change the manual transmission fluid, the transfer case fluid, and the final drive fluid in the next 3 weeks or so - I will be doing that myself. Never done that before on the X-Type. All maintenance work I used to do was on 1970s GM vehicles in America (Pontiac GTO).
Now it seems that I am having a problem getting the proper fluids that are SAE certified for the Jaguar. I have read today that Redline and others are not in conformance with the Jaguar specifications. The fluids are the new types of "for life" and supposedly the regular commercial fluids are not compatible with X-Types. Any knowledge on that?
Thanks
Paul

 

Sure others have used redline, amsoil or purple etc but best wait or confirmation.

If it helps

Jack the car up 21 inches one side, drain the transfer case, then jack the car up opposite way to put 600ml in.

Mine has Fuchs Titan Sintopoid LS SAE 75W-140 gear oil

Opie Oils are worth asking as you tell them which car, what for and if you want budget or bees knees etc

Opie Oils - Automotive Fluids, Oils, Parts, Tools

01209 202944

 

Thank you very much bro...
I have had this X-Type 3.0 AWD for 2.5 years and I am now getting ready to work on it myself, because after the incident I recently encountered, I am trusting no one.
I did not buy a 10 year old car to become homeless due to maintenance/repair costs.
I am now reading the Haynes Manual for my X-Type, and I am deciding to sell my car.
I just cannot believe what idiots the engineers of this car must have been... -> on some kind of special psychedelic drugs probably - must have been really cool.

Problem 1:
Why is the Haynes Manual saying that the only way to drain the oil from the Transfer Case is to "remove the rear output shaft oil seal as described in Section 3"?
The Section 3 involves removal of the propeller shaft from the transfer case as described in Chapter 8.
And it goes on like this and I've been at it now for 2 hours just reading and being sick of it.

Problem 2:
Let's say I blow the head gasket in the future, right?
Not a big deal.
In the 1971 Pontiac GTO, all I had to do was remove the head and put the new gasket on the cylinder head and bolt the head back on.
Of course it involved removing the carburetor, the intake manifold and the valve covers, but that was a real piece of cakewalk.
However, you blow the head gasket on this X-Type, according to the Haynes Manual you get this:
First you go to Chapter 2A*10 -> Petrol Engine In-Car Repair Procedures, and that guides you to Section 13 -> Cylinder Heads -> Removal and Refitting: "Removal of the cylinder heads is only possible once the camshafts have been removed, which requires removal of the engine/transmission. Consequently, the procedure description, along with the engine/transmission removal and camshaft replacement is contained within Chapter 2C".
So for me it ends here because I doubt I will ever be able to hoist the engine/transmission out of this X-Type on the side of the road in front of my house where I park it.

Problem 3:
The immediately following is the Section 14 -> Sump Removal And Refitting.
In America, I used to call it an "oil pan" and I had removed it and put it back on on my GTO I think 2 times within 3 years, just to change the gasket and later to check the oil pump or something, don't remember anymore.
But it was a quick and straigtforward procedure, just several bolts off and on, preferably with a new gasket for $4.99 then or so.
But the Haynes Manual goes like this to remove and refit the oil pan (sump) on this X-Type 3.0 AWD:
1. Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands.
2. Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter 1A.
3. On models with all-wheel drive, remove the Transfer Case as described in Chapter 7C.
And at this point, I am deciding to sell my X-Type, because you don't really want to know what is involved in the Chapter 7C.
I think even the guys who wrote the Haynes Manual must have been on some kind of really cool mind-altering substances.
Please, Santer, do you know who would buy my X-Type?
I have all the receipts, I bought it for £1,800 in April 2014.
Got four new tyres on it the day after for £385.
Five days later my clutch went, so I had to spend £700 to get the new clutch and dual-mass flywheel fitted by a back-street garage... the jag dealer quotted me £2,400 and other reputable garages like Halfords Autocentre £1,500.
Since then no real problems, just 2 new front road springs for £160, a new battery for £64, some tools for like only £200, ha-ha, etc.
Now I have been quoted £170 for the replacement of the right front (offside) wheel bearing, but this price also includes the thorough health check of my car, because I need to know what else might or will break on it (I kinda doubt it will be all hunky dory after that).
Aren't these X-Types the money pits?
Like throwing the new money after the bad ones?
Like we do in the casinos when gambling?
I will be personally better off financially driving around in taxi cabs.
I just did about 5,000 miles on it in 2.5 years.
Bought it with 108,000 miles on it, now it has like 112,000+.
I am getting too old for this **** (51 in November).
Thanks
Paul

 

Other than take it here and other " meets " to show it around

Leeds Meeting Saturday 1st of October 2016

Or advertise it here

Jaguar Cars For Sale

I wouldn't know where to start with selling it, sorry.

However, you obviously know your way round a car, so, if it were me, I would change out the fluids then sit back and enjoy it, with an ear out for impending doom.

Seems to be a buyer will want to pay virtually the same for crepe or pristine unless it is their favourite colour etc.

Maybe give it a while of just driving it and only fixing or selling if it becomes essential

 

Will do bro...
Thank you very much.
Paul

 

Anyone who has been around Jaguars for any length of time knows that you never accept a Haynes manual as authoritative! They make boiling a kettle of water sound like brain surgery. Point in question: the official Jaguar procedure for changing the transfer case fluid is to raise the car on one side, remove the fill plug, and thereby drain the fluid. Now you raise the opposite side of the car and replace the old fluid with a max of 600 ml of new fluid (75w140 synthetic) using the same fill plug. Job done.
And no, they are not money pits.

 

Thank you very much "sov211"!

I am so glad I have become a member of this forum.

Finally somebody gave me a hope.

I have already ditched reading the Haynes Manual, I just use it as a reference now, but then I go for these forums and YouTube videos.

I am now ready to do Manual Gear Box oil change, Front Transfer Case Differential Oil Change, and Rear Final Drive Differential Oil Change.

I already have the procedures mastered theoretically thanks to you guys here on the forum and some YouTube videos.
Two days ago I spent about 4 hours under my car getting acquaintaned with all the underneath drain & filler plugs and other components (I used 2 one-and-a-half-ton axle stands, so I felt safe because they both together hold 3 tons, which is a way more than my Son Baby Jag weighs anyway).

Conclusion:
1: My Baby Jag seems quite healthy from the underneath!
2: Manual Gear Box drain and fill -> should be an absolute piece of cake!
3: Front Transfer Case Diff drain and fill -> should be an absolute pice of cake thanks to "sov211"!
4: Rear Final Drive Diff drain and fill -> I am still in research of finding a proper cheap make-shift device to pump/suck/siphon out the fluid - somebody mentions a "turkey baster" with a tube and a flexible metal pipe.

Problems:
1: Cannot find a "turkey baster" - I was told they sell it only during Christmas times.
2: I know the Manual Gear Box takes 75W/90 Part Synthetic, but I am having problem to get the brand recommended by Jaguar - supposedly commercially available brands like Redline and others are not conformant with the Jaguar specs - any suggestions please?
3: Also, thanks to "sov211" and other sources, I now know that the Front & Rear Diffs take 75W/140 Fully Synthetic - but the same catch-22 with commercially available brands not being conformant.

This post really scared me off: Jaguar Motor Project: Motor Project # 8 - Vital Fluids

I cannot find any "Jaguar-Recommended" fluids anywhere; according to the post the Jag-Recommended fluids are not chemically the same as the commercially available types even when the numbers are the same (75W/90 & 75W140) - these are just SAE viscosity numbers.

The original Jaguar fluids are supposedly some special "For Life" chemical concoctions that are entirelly different from the commercial lubricants.

So, please, anyone: where do I buy the proper fluids regardless of cost?

I live in the UK.

Also, my coolant expansion tank has had a very tiny leak for the past 2 years somewhere from its bottom, I can't locate the leak exactly, I just see the drops on its bottom and below where the motor mount nut is.

I wanted to get a new tank but it goes in the range from £40 to £60 !!!

I have to remove the tank in order to locate the exact damaged area where the leak is.

What if I just take out the tank, find the leak, and fix the crack with a red hot nail held in the pliers - you know like soldering the plastic crack with heat - thank you all for the suggestons.

I ain't paying £50 for some plastic container that is worth a maximum of £1.

Thank you all very much for help.

Paul

 

Some have had a leak which evaporates on a hot part of the engine

Maybe a dye would help?