Timhomir, Lori brings up a good point that I forgot about. You have been running straight water in the radiator for some time. It is very possible that rust particles have built up in the radiator over time and that is clogging the radiator.

So, before you start going crazy and replacing everything in your car, do this for me. Get yourself say 20 liters of distilled water (not purified water and not the water out of the faucet in your house), 8 liters of 50/50 mix coolant, and a container of radiator flush (comes in a 500ml bottle). With the engine cold, you will want remove the cap off of the overflow bottle and then drain out what is in the radiator now (the drain plug is located in the near right corner of the radiator as you are laying on your back with your head under the front bumper, there is a small access hole to reach the drain port). You can use a phillips screw driver to open this valve. Once all the fluid is drained, close this drain valve.

At this point, open up the bottle of radiator flush and dump it into the overflow bottle. Then using 6-8 liters of water, fill up the overflow bottle to the top line on the overflow bottle. Start up the engine and let it get up to temperature, adding some water to keep the water level at the top line on the bottle. Once the engine is up to temperature, put the overflow bottle cap back on and take the car for a spin for say 10 minutes. If at all possible, try placing the transmission into say "3" and get the engine RPMs up to around 5,000 and hold it there for say 10 seconds or so. The big thing is you want to get the engine RPMs up as high as you can, but not up to redline in a safe manner. So, change gears as necessary. Speed of the car is not important, it is all about the motor. Also make sure not to overheat the engine during this.

Get the car back home and stop the car and then immediately open the drain valve and remove the overflow bottle cap (make sure to have a towel or other piece of cloth handy to place between your hand and the overflow bottle as some steam may emit from the cap when you remove it). Let all the water drain out of the radiator. You should hopefully see a lot of brownish or orangish water come out at this point. This would be a semi-good thing (good in that you are getting stuff out of the radiator, bad in that it came from somewhere and it may be leading to future problems). Once all the water is drained out, close the drain valve and fill again using the process mentioned above but not adding the radiator flush.

After filling with just water, drain the radiator again. Once it is drained, close the drain valve and this time, refill the overflow bottle using the 50/50 mix coolant. The color of the coolant is not going to matter at this point in time. You have flushed anything that could be of concern away. So, if the guy at the auto parts store asks you if you need green, orange, or red coolant, any of them will work. You will probably find that you can only get about 6-7 liters of coolant into the overflow bottle before reaching the top line. This is fine. Once you are at that top line, start the engine and let it come up to temperature. Add the coolant as necessary to keep it near this top line. Once the level seems steady (take about 10-20 minutes), turn off the engine and let things cool. You can loosely put the overflow cap on, just don't tighten it all the way down, you want to let air get into the overflow bottle. Prior to driving the car the next time, check the coolant level and odds are you will need to add a little bit of coolant (say 0.5 liters or so) to bring it back up to the top line. At this point, tighten down the overflow bottle cap and you should be good.

The big things when doing this is: 1) if at any point the engine starts to overheat, stop the engine and let it cool slightly and then continue, 2) when you open the drain valve after having the engine running, the coolant is going to be hot and poses a burn risk, keep your hand as clear of where the coolant is going to run as possible. You may find it beneficial since it is your first time working on a car like this to remove the plate that sits under the radiator. This will give you more room to see things and make locating things easier. Will also make for getting your hand out of the way of the hot coolant easier too.

 

Just to clarify a point- water is far better at removing heat than any coolant.

It does have the drawbacks of having a lower boiling point and a higher freezing point, not to mention the tendency to promote corrosion.

If the car is overheating with straight water, it will be even worse with coolant.

 

What makes you say you have air in the Brake system?

Spongy? or you pump them and they firm up?

Maybe a bad Master Cylinder.

 

Update from a mechanic today...
They told me after the service (changing oil and filters) and checking the car ( they say that the water pump is good, radiator, thermostat and fans are good).
So now only left that they think it could be is head gasket need to be replaced.
I read it about head gasket and it makes sense for me, but im asking you guys who have more experience could that be a problem for my car overheating.
They said i need 1300$ more for that repair with new part instaled...
What is your thouths? Thanx

 

This makes no sense using the info you provided. Ask our mechanic how he diagnosed a bad head gasket.

 

I would easily ask him but trust me Pakistanians here are the mechanics like 80% of them.
And their english i need to translate when im speaking with them.
He told me that he inspected all the abovementioned( water pump, radiator, thermostat and fans) and all of that is working properly.
Then he told me he assume that 80% of the problem is the head gasket thing but he will double check in tree days( holidays here at the moment) and let me know for sure what is it?
Now my concerns are: 1. Could it be the head gasket 2. If not what else
My fear is now even if i replace that head gasket and bankrupt this month, what if the problem still persist after that?
So im asking you to consider what is the best option?

 

Tihomir, diagnosing a blown head gasket can be done two ways. The more accurate way is to use a compression tester. Unfortunately, this is probably beyond your capability at the moment. In short, you put this special gauge in place of the spark plug and you crank over the engine. The cylinder will build up a pressure that is read on the gauge. A blown head gasket will not let the cylinder build up pressure and therefore is shown on the gauge.

The other method is to use your nose. Start up the car (engine cold) and then open the hood of your car. Remove the cap off of the overflow bottle (not recommended to do when the engine is up at temperature due to build up pressure). Let the engine come up to temperature. As the motor is warming up, take a smell of the opening to the overflow bottle. Are you getting a sweet smell (this would be coolant) or are you getting more of an exhaust type of smell? Exhaust smell would be an indication of a bad head gasket. A sweet smell would be a "good" smell.

The other thing you may see is air bubbles coming into the overflow bottle. This would actually be exhaust gases making their way to the overflow bottle. I would trust this test more than your mechanic from the sounds of things.

 

If you don't trust your present mechanic, don't know or understand what they're doing and can't do the work yourself, I'd suggest going to a Jaguar specialist for a proper diagnosis.

A bad head gasket on it's own does not cause a car to overheat.

 

Ty guys, will consider for official service check. Maybe they can trouble shoot the problem better. I have a feelings that this mechanic is going blindly guessing what could be wrong. Will keep you informed what is going on...

 

Update ��
Good news is that my overheating problem was caused because of bad thermostat.
The mechanics have change it and now my car is working perfectly.
Bad news is that my A/C is not working so great.
Now i need to change compressor, hopefully it will be the last thing so i can finally enjoy the ride. Thank you all for your help. ����

 

Here are the bullet points:
1. Started to overheat when A/C was on. Running with A/C off was OK. Now, it overheats regardless.
2. Driving on highway it didnt overheat, now it does,
3. A/C blowing cold - I've replaced the radiator and the A/C radiator thingy too a year ago.
4. Water pump was replaced a year ago along with the radiator.
5. I have replaced the thermostat - today
6. I have replaced the coolant sensor next to the manifold - today
7. Added new coolant/antifreeze as well. - Greenish one from Autozone.
8. Fans start and stay on after a whole the car is off.
9. Strong breeze from fans.

What else will need to be checked? Any info?

Thanks.

 

god knows
have you any water leaks when the car has been run ? my problem was the connecting pipes to the header tank they had split and water ran out when it was hot.

 

head gasket ?

 

The way you described I think there is a blockage in your cooling system; if you not lost the coolant, it might be blocked in the radiator, if it lost the coolant and you don't see the leak it leaked inside the engine; when you idle, the block restrict the coolant to flow enough to cool the engine, that's why the fan have to run harder try to cool the engine, and when you turn the engine off the fan still run until the engine cool down then it stop, so not thing wrong with your fan module, and when your car run at higher speed (RPM) it push more coolant trough the engine that make the temp come down, check the radiator outlet hose and see if the coolant com out at idle, if not it could be the blockage in the radiator, replace it the rev the engine up to see if the coolant comes out. you need to flush the coolant or find the blockage to open it. You need to fix the blockage quick before it break the head gsket.

 

Have located a leak at the front of the car when adding water (and not distilled) because we were trying to figure out where it was coming out. It is a big hose just under the engine and the radiator (sort of visible ... but not very accessible from the top). Not sure what the hose is called, but maybe something coming from the coolant reservoir trying to get to the radiator. Plan on maybe trying to get it to Firestone, but unsure about their expertise in the area. Thanks to Thang Nguyen for taking the time to reply!

 

Can anyone tell me what this bigger hose is just under the engine (by the radiator)? It is the culprit and it is leaking worse than ever on the underside?
Not sure why it has the rust on top?
Trying to decide to take public transport to work or bite the bullet for the actual repair ... money is tight with school expenses. Thanks to anyone who is able to help!!

 

The pipe you saw is not the part of radiator, it's probably the radiator support, the way you describe the leak cam from other side of radiator( that's why you can't see it), fluid leak out and ran down on top of the pipe( that's why you saw the rust on top of the pipe), it ran down othe side make you think the leak cam from under pipe, take the plastic under tray out crawl under neat to see wher it leak out from radiator? Or take a piece of steaf plastic insert between the pipe and radiator where you see the fluid cam down, wipe dry the pipe to see if the fluid still com out from the pipe or the fluid being chandler to other place?You might have to replace the radiator. It's a time consuming job.

 

Thang Nguyen ... Many thanks for taking the time to reply. Now it goes to Firestone. I just hope they know what they are doing ... How about lending them your expertise? Will let you know how we come out???

 

Hope it's not a major leak and they can fix it and not charge too much. Ask them about over heat at idle, hope it' not a blockage in the cooling system, after the leak is fix, you must flushing all the fluid in the system and fill with the new fluid. Good luck

 

Thanks again. Thursday is D-day!! Will give you an update.
So hope it is very minimal!!