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How to change the Starter 1995-97 XJ6 Vanden Plas
#1
How to change the Starter 1995-97 XJ6 Vanden Plas
How to change the starter 1995 -1997 xj6 VDP
Before you begin double check that the positive battery cable firewall pass thru is solid and does not wiggle. If it wiggles replace the stud before changing the starter to see if it fixes your problem
This play in this stud can also cause charging problems.
Wile your in here clean all the electrical contacts!!
Step 1 drive over pit or onto a lift
2.)Disconnect the battery
3.)disconnect the postitve battery cable where it comes thru the fire wall on the passenger side
(this is nutted)
4.)Disconnect the starter signal wire from the back of the cylinder head its the only one of the
3 connectors with only 1 wire
3.)support Transmission mount with pole jack or similar
4.)unbolt the transmission cross member
5.)you will needabout 4ft of 1/2in extensions
1 swivel joint, and
1 13mm impact socket
1 1/2in ratchet
1 piece of pipe or wrench for extra leverage
6.)lower the pole jack/transmission until the cylinder head is almost
in contact with the firewall
7.)remove the top starter bolt from the transmission side of the
bell housing with your extensions and swivel I found it
easiest from behind the trans cross member
8.)Remove the lower starter bolt from the engine side of the bell housing
9.)remove 8mm bolt that hold the + wire going to the starter from
the underside of the intake manifold support bracket
10.)twist the starter clockwise until you can remove the
nut(Battery +) and screw(signal wire) from the starter
11.) remove the starter
12.) to put the new one inn reverse the steps switching 8 & 9I wrote this because i couldn't find anything about how to do it when i went looking because i needed to change mine.
Hope you find it helpful let me know if you have any questions.
Before you begin double check that the positive battery cable firewall pass thru is solid and does not wiggle. If it wiggles replace the stud before changing the starter to see if it fixes your problem
This play in this stud can also cause charging problems.
Wile your in here clean all the electrical contacts!!
Step 1 drive over pit or onto a lift
2.)Disconnect the battery
3.)disconnect the postitve battery cable where it comes thru the fire wall on the passenger side
(this is nutted)
4.)Disconnect the starter signal wire from the back of the cylinder head its the only one of the
3 connectors with only 1 wire
3.)support Transmission mount with pole jack or similar
4.)unbolt the transmission cross member
5.)you will needabout 4ft of 1/2in extensions
1 swivel joint, and
1 13mm impact socket
1 1/2in ratchet
1 piece of pipe or wrench for extra leverage
6.)lower the pole jack/transmission until the cylinder head is almost
in contact with the firewall
7.)remove the top starter bolt from the transmission side of the
bell housing with your extensions and swivel I found it
easiest from behind the trans cross member
8.)Remove the lower starter bolt from the engine side of the bell housing
9.)remove 8mm bolt that hold the + wire going to the starter from
the underside of the intake manifold support bracket
10.)twist the starter clockwise until you can remove the
nut(Battery +) and screw(signal wire) from the starter
11.) remove the starter
12.) to put the new one inn reverse the steps switching 8 & 9I wrote this because i couldn't find anything about how to do it when i went looking because i needed to change mine.
Hope you find it helpful let me know if you have any questions.
Last edited by GGG; 11-28-2020 at 03:50 AM. Reason: Close Poll
The following 3 users liked this post by auto666:
#3
also i would check the stud i refer to in the begining of the article before changing the starter.
(I edited it)
Ring me on up
Travis
602-295-7305
The following users liked this post:
SleekJag12 (04-10-2013)
#4
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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#5
alkefhoiwheo
How to change the starter 1995 -1997 xj6 VDP
Before you begin double check that the positive battery cable firewall pass thru is solid and does not wiggle. If it wiggles replace the stud before changing the starter to see if it fixes your problem
This play in this stud can also cause charging problems.
Wile your in here clean all the electrical contacts!!
Step 1 drive over pit or onto a lift
2.)Disconnect the battery
3.)disconnect the postitve battery cable where it comes thru the fire wall on the passenger side
(this is nutted)
4.)Disconnect the starter signal wire from the back of the cylinder head its the only one of the
3 connectors with only 1 wire
3.)support Transmission mount with pole jack or similar
4.)unbolt the transmission cross member
5.)you will need
in contact with the firewall
7.)remove the top starter bolt from the transmission side of the
bell housing with your extensions and swivel I found it
easiest from behind the trans cross member
8.)Remove the lower starter bolt from the engine side of the bell housing
9.)remove 8mm bolt that hold the + wire going to the starter from
the underside of the intake manifold support bracket
10.)twist the starter clockwise until you can remove the
nut(Battery +) and screw(signal wire) from the starter
11.) remove the starter
12.) to put the new one inn reverse the steps switching 8 & 9
Before you begin double check that the positive battery cable firewall pass thru is solid and does not wiggle. If it wiggles replace the stud before changing the starter to see if it fixes your problem
This play in this stud can also cause charging problems.
Wile your in here clean all the electrical contacts!!
Step 1 drive over pit or onto a lift
2.)Disconnect the battery
3.)disconnect the postitve battery cable where it comes thru the fire wall on the passenger side
(this is nutted)
4.)Disconnect the starter signal wire from the back of the cylinder head its the only one of the
3 connectors with only 1 wire
3.)support Transmission mount with pole jack or similar
4.)unbolt the transmission cross member
5.)you will need
about 4ft of 1/2in extensions
1 swivel joint, and
1 13mm impact socket
1 1/2in ratchet
1 piece of pipe or wrench for extra leverage
6.)lower the pole jack/transmission until the cylinder head is almost 1 swivel joint, and
1 13mm impact socket
1 1/2in ratchet
1 piece of pipe or wrench for extra leverage
in contact with the firewall
7.)remove the top starter bolt from the transmission side of the
bell housing with your extensions and swivel I found it
easiest from behind the trans cross member
8.)Remove the lower starter bolt from the engine side of the bell housing
9.)remove 8mm bolt that hold the + wire going to the starter from
the underside of the intake manifold support bracket
10.)twist the starter clockwise until you can remove the
nut(Battery +) and screw(signal wire) from the starter
11.) remove the starter
12.) to put the new one inn reverse the steps switching 8 & 9
I wrote this because i couldn't find anything about how to do it when i went looking because i needed to change mine.
Hope you find it helpful let me know if you have any questions.
The following users liked this post:
gibbon (12-30-2019)
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Graham
#9
About a year later I replaced the VDP's starter from above. With the manifold off, it is easy to do, the Devil Hose and the Octopus hose too. Also the knock sensors, oil pressure sender, oil bypass o-rings, and coolant rail gaskets as the mood suits, all easy to reach then.
This is for the normally aspirated AJ16. Supercharged engines will be more involved!
This is for the normally aspirated AJ16. Supercharged engines will be more involved!
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Don B (12-02-2020)
#10
#11
Well it’s all stripped, I hope I can remember where all the bits, wires and hoses go for putting it back together. Would be easier if there was plug on wiring loom so you don’t have to disconnect everything and feed through the manifold. Don’t know if I’m brave enough to cut loom and fit a plug ?
Think my oil leak might be filter housing, that starter top bolt still looks a pig. Saving that for tomorrow.
Think my oil leak might be filter housing, that starter top bolt still looks a pig. Saving that for tomorrow.
The following users liked this post:
Don B (02-13-2021)
#13
#14
#16
#18
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SleekJag12 (02-21-2021)
#19
I refer to Stu Jags comment regarding a plug on the wiring loom going down through the intake manifold, yes it is a pain when removing the manifold.
I was brave enough to to fit a wiring plug, fitting a 8 pin Deutsch connector for the following -
TPS, IACV & oil pressure sensor. I have only the air intake connector then left to disconnect.
The two Knock sensors, one at the rear & one at the front, I have rerouted the wiring from the wiring tray ( loom & injectors wire are in it) direct to the front & rear sensor without travelling through the manifold.
In the interests of accessibility I have also rerouted the rear 02 sensor wires and mounted the connectors on the brake booster casting (RHD) instead of having them buried
at the rear of the engine against the firewall.
Photos attached.
I was brave enough to to fit a wiring plug, fitting a 8 pin Deutsch connector for the following -
TPS, IACV & oil pressure sensor. I have only the air intake connector then left to disconnect.
The two Knock sensors, one at the rear & one at the front, I have rerouted the wiring from the wiring tray ( loom & injectors wire are in it) direct to the front & rear sensor without travelling through the manifold.
In the interests of accessibility I have also rerouted the rear 02 sensor wires and mounted the connectors on the brake booster casting (RHD) instead of having them buried
at the rear of the engine against the firewall.
Photos attached.
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