Thank you in advance for reading and providing whatever assistance you can. I own a 1997 Vanden Plas Jaguar. This vehicle carries an in line six engine and is four door. The vehicle has over 140k miles and prior to this issue has run great. To begin the vehicle was exhibiting running issues with hesitation misfiring and plenty of codes. The vehicle would idle beautifully, however once warmed up, the vehicle would exhibit misfirings in the following areas. My code reader indicated the following codes P1314, which I subsequently fixed, then P1313, in addition to a P0300 code. Since these codes I have changed spark plugs, coils, checked the injectors. I have also checked the EGR valve, and checked for vacuum leaks. In the process of this major work my final repair included changing the fuel pump. While changing the fuel pump I jacked up the rear of the vehicle to check underneath for obsticles and hoses, prior to removing the fuel tank. My fault in this was not disconnecting the battery from the vehicle. The fuel pump has since been changed, and everything reinstalled as before. Though now, I put my key in the ignition make an attempt to turn over the engine and I get nothing. No clicking, revolution of the crank shaft. The indicator lights on the dash board illuminate as they have in the past, though as of this moment I can not start the car to test my work, nor can I test drive it. I believe this issue has something to do with the security control module however I have no idea. I charged the battery to capacity, to verify that I did not some how drain it. I checked the connections, terminals and even searched throughout the internet to find some form of reset for the module and have found nothing. It should be noted that the head lights do not come on at this time as a result of this issue, if that narrows this down. This forum is my last hope for finding resolution to the issue at hand. Any comments or assistance provided will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

 

In short, your car will not crank. So let's start with the simple stuff first. Is the shifter definately in Park with the red P illuminated? Give the shifter a wiggle.
Does the fuel pump prime when ignition is switched on?
Have you re-set the fuel intertia switch?
Does the car arm and disarm itself via the fob and can you activate the siren by opening the bonnet/trunk.
You didn't disturb the security module while removing the tank?
Are all relays and fuses ok?
Sorry, no answers to your question there, but your answers may provide help for other more knowledgable people than myself.

 

The vehicle is definately in park. I have overheard the fuel pump prime, though i dont know where the fuel pump inertia switch is. The car does arm and disarm itself when the key fob is used. The security module was not disturbed while conducting the replacement and no i have not yet tested any of the fuses or relays however they were all working when I began replacing the fuel tank. Thank you for the reply though.

 

OK, for starters you "appear" new to the forum, SO WELCOME.

Just for giggles, take the gearlever and go through the J gate, BOTH SIDES, and see if that "P" lights up nice and red. If it does not, you are dead in the water, so go for "N", and NO it is not red, but the engine may crank/start in N due to a non-P switch issue.

If you are hearing the fuel pump prime the enertia switch is possible not the culprit, but a reset will do NO harm. It is behing the RH scuttle panel on the RHD cars, I THINK, and may also be there on LHD??.

I have NEVER gone looking for it on mine, so someone who has will assist I am sure.

 

I just read a thread on another forum which might help. Credit goes to the op

'To find out if a car is immobilised, perform this check;

Turn ignition on but do not crank the engine. Observe the
orange 'check engine' light in the bottom left corner of the
instrument pod. If that light goes out, the car is immobilsed, at
least by the starter not cranking the engine if you try to start it.

The fact that other systems like wipers, lights, windows etc. will
still work can confuse the issue. The fact that they are working
means nothing at all. The engine alone is immobilised.'

Also, did you use the same key that started the car originally? You are not using a 'spare' key withought a transponder?

 

I may be showing my ignorance, but that never stopped me before. Where is "PSL"- it is a relevant question because the vehicles delivery country makes a big difference in troubleshooting the no crank issue.

 

Thank you for the replies so far. As of right now there is no activity regarding the engine turning over. Yesterday I checked every fuse in this car, and found no blown fuses. The key which has been used in this car is original and has worked everytime. I checked the inertia switch again to no avail. So aat this point in time I tried removing the SCM or security control module from the vehicle. This provided no change to my current condition. I'm starting to think there is something wrong with the ECM but then again everything was working prior to the replacement of the fuel pump and jacking up the vehicle. I am sseriously at a loss. I'm not sure if at this time I need to have it towed to the nearest Jaguar dealership to have them hook up their billion dollar computer to this thing and diagnois it. I followed the directions of a reply to my thread which indicated I needed to do a hard reset by disconnecting the battery then touching the + / - terminals together for a hard reset. This effort provided negative results as well. Next thing i'm checking is the starter relay maybe that has something to do with this issue.
If anyone has any information regarding this car and issue I am having please feel free to post here, any assistance provided will be greatly appreciated!!

 

To answer the question of location it is Port St Lucie

 

I haven't heard a confirmation that the "P" glows red. If not, the engine won't crank.

Cheers
DD

 

And if it is Port St. Lucie in Florida, then you have no immobiliser, unless you imported the car yourself. In addition to Doug's question, does the CEL come on as you turn the key to position 2?

 

Well friends I finally got my 1997 Jaguar VP started. I removed the back seat, the cosmetic covering in the trunk removed every wiring component, and computer from the trunk of the vehicle as well as the trunk wiring harness and discovered frayed wires which I have repaired. Now once again I am on to the original issue after having replaced the fuel pump.

Hopefully someone can help with this old issue. The vehicle is misfiring. I have a scan tool Can OBD2 Innova 1303. Once I got the vehicle running, I took it for a 15 minute drive. Put in Premium gas and the vehicle has exceptional power which is a greater improvement from the previous operating condition.
The codes being exhibited at this time are the following:
P1314
P0304
P0300
P1313
B30?4
P13?0
The latter two I do not understand and cannot find the description for these two. I believe I am very close to resolving my issues with this vehicle . The car has a new fuel pump, new fuel filter all the connection are fine, fuel and electrical. Additionally I tested all of the vehicle relays throughout the car a well as all of the fuses. Very time consuming but worth it I feel. My question is has anyone every experienced this many codes, and does anyone know how to test the ignition coil to verify if it is working. In addition to the previsou information I have notice that when the vehicle heats up the misfire begins. thank you in advance for any assistance anyone can provide.

 

If its warmed up and start misfiring it could be crank or camsensor

 

Good news on the "running" fix of the AJ16.

Well sorted and diagnosed.

Were the frayed wires anywhere near the boot hinge/s, as I have read somewhere about an issue with wiring in that area, and the non-opening of the boot lock??.

I have also read of the ignition coils failing on these engines from time to time. Especially as engine temps rise. The "quick" sort for that has been to remove the coil cover panel, and find a dark corner at night, and run the engine and watch the fireworks, as I believe it is quite dramatic, mine was DULL, no fireworks at all, and of course the engine dont misfire, but I had a look see, just because.

 

The OP stated, "Since these codes I have changed spark plugs, coils, checked the injectors."

 

Well, he also said," how to test the ignition coil to verify if it is working" so it would leave SOME doubt as to what really got changes.

 

Best thing to do now is erase all the codes that are stored in memory on the ecu. Even though you fix the problem the code needs to be erased. After you erase them all and it says 0 codes then drive it around for 30 mins and check for codes again.
B30?4 is an ABS code, Is your anti lock light on also?

 

@ GreatFrancis, the fray wasnt at the hindge like I thought it would be, the fray was above the fuel tank one foot away from the rear deck connector.

Well good news fellas, I have successfully broken the one of the ignition coils which has clearly shut off a cylinder. This break has ultimately identified the location of the misfire. I can tell you though even with this misfire, changing the fuel pump has significantly and very noticably improved the performance of the vehicle. Even with the misfire, the vehicle accelerates smoothly and consistently. I have the new ignition coil ordered and am patiently awaiting the arrival.

 

Sweet

 

Hello again fellas. Well I believe I have solved a bunch of or variety of issues with my Jaguar. However, I have an issue, and its hard to explain and even more difficult to diagnose.

If you have read above you know most of my issues. Mostly all have been solved. As of today I have no check engine light. But the car continues to misfire intermittently. The engine back fires through the exhaust manifold. In addition I idle the engine for several minutes, I ran it at 4500 rpms straight for 10 minutes then the engine began to deteriorate in performance at 4500 rpm the engine misfired so I backed off the throttle to 3500 rpms, the engine maintained this rpm, then a short time later began to backfire, so I brought the rpms down further and continued this until the engine was at the base idle with no throttle, and when the throttle is depressed the engine will misfire and backfire in the exhaust. I cant help but notice this occurrs when the engine is warming up from dead cold to 180 degrees approximate. I have check and replaced all the ignition coils all are working fine. The engine will start, idle, but when it begins to get warm or is involved in continous operation to get warm even without driving a misfire, and back fires in the exhaust have been occuring. Please help me, I need this car and would like to have it on the road.
I may be sending the fuel injectors for a cleaning soon and o-ring replacement at Injector RX of Houston Texas. Has anyone ever heard of or seen an issue such as this where the vehicle misfires at idle and get worse once it warms up and further backfires in the exhaust when its warm? Once again please help if you can. Thank you in advance.

 

Your "Can OBD2 Innova 1303" can read LIVE DATA from the ECM.

You can read things like O2 sensors, STFT, MAFS, Ignition Advance (to watch the CKPS in a round about way) so something is happening that you should be able to see with a live data stream.

Might be overly rich or lean????

Did you replace the fuel filter??? Could be clogged and running lean??

Fuel Pressure OK?? Could be running too rich?? (Fuel Pressure Regulator??)

Keep diagnosing!!

bob gauff