So i was playing around today in an attempt to wire in new hazard light switch and door locking switch so as i needed to move the unit after my headunit install.
i was having issues with getting the hazard light switch to operate properly how i wanted so i decided to extend the cable for the clock pack to relocate it.
so i cut the wires, put plugs on and made an extension.
plugged it in and now the security light and the door lock button do not work.

i replaced the fuse for the pack in the rh heelboard as i must have blown it as the clock was not working,
after replacing the fuse the clock works. (Well kinda, it needs repair anyway)
but the lock button does nothing and the security light does not work.

so i unplugged and bridged the slate/green (door lock switch) wire to the black (gnd) and nothing happened.
so i pulled out the multimeter checked the voltage and sure enough there is voltage there but it is not actualy operating the switch.

Not sure how exactly to check the security led but the door lock should be working






what could be the problem here?

 

So i am thinking its the security module but I am hoping it is not.
i tried the hard reset and nothing happened. Left the cables touched over night.

so now i have noticed that the boot ajar is showing the boot open all the time.
Pushing the button on the dash does nothing,
pushing the button on the bootlid does nothing, I don’t even hear it attempting to work. So the module is not attempting to operate the boot.

maybe the boot ajar is why the lock button doesn’t work?
but if the boot is ajar it still should attempt to operate the boot lock.

is it maybe stuck in valet mode for some reason even tho the valet was never used?
but if that is the case then opening the boot with the key should take it out. Now my
lock does not work, (i will try and fix that now)
but if you see my previous post i have wired in an after market keyless entry kit into the module and the wiring it is tapped into is the wiring that simulates a key being used. So opening the boot with my remote simulates opening it with the key.

essentially i am not sure if it can be anything else but the remote.

 

Look in your private mail in about 10 minutes

 

So the boot ajar was the microswitch not closing from the lock.
bent the bracket and that was an easy fix.
lock button and security light however still am unsure

 

So one good thing has come from this issue,
whilst repairing the latch and microswitch i decided it was time to take out the lock barrel and repair it so i can use the key to open and close the boot when needed.
so i took it out, took it apart, soaked it in wd40, scrubbed it, messed around for ages to reassemble it and get the spring in properly, lubed it with lithium grease and bamn, key lock working againx

now if i only i knew why my dash locking button and security light does not work

 

Check the fuse for the sunroof. It is in the RH side heel board

When my central button stopped working, it had continuity to the security module in the trunk and power as well. But the fuse for the sunroof was blown. The way the central locking system works is that everything must close or nothing will. If there is a blown fuse in its way (i.e. for the door windows, sunroof etc ....basically anything that the central locking button controls), it will not operate at all

 

will check. i mean the central locking does work, if i turn the key, or push the drivers door lock, even the deadlocking works.
just not the console button.
100% will check, but i assumed it wouldn't matter as you can lock the car if the sunroof is open.
different tho i suppose if the circuit is broken.

 

checked that and didn't help.
guess i need to check the pin at the module to ensure the power is getting there.
to make sure i have this right.
disconnect plug at module, test sg wire for voltage.
should be 0v
press switch (or connect wires and bridge them)
should be 12v

 

Maybe its something to do with the drive away locking feature?
that feature has never really worked for me.
Not sure exactly how that feature works but maybe i could consult the wiring diagrams and check it out. Cus my button was working, and now after playing around with my stereo install and what not it does not work. Not sire exactly when it stopped working so hard to say but maybe i knocked loose a wire somewhere and this feature may make sense as an option

 

The test procedure is described in the attached documents...in my experience, a plug under the centre console storage cubby was not fully engaged so which caused the global lock switch not to work and the sunroof fuse was not present...maybe when you installed the radio, you pulled on some plugs ,,,

 

that feature is programmed into the body processing module...doesn't work on mine either, not sure if I even had it...but the central locking button works regardless

 

yeah that is entirely possible. i will pull it out on the weekend and double check all. i was thinking that exact thought.
i need to take it out anyway as i need to fix a couple globes in my AC unit. problem i have found with the LEDs i used is they don't always make the best contact after a little vibration. easy fixed atleast.

sunroof working so i know its not related to that.
and yeah what i thought bout the drive away feature as mine never worked either but it was just a thought i had

 

is the 22 pin multi plug refering to the one on the security module?

would be connector cc3 for the lock button and cc5 for the security light.
trying to see what else runs through those connectors cus if they don't work then it is more likely.

*valet switch runs through cc5 and i know it works.

my question is though, if there is something wrong and the connection is not going to the security module why would i be picking up voltage when bridging pin3 (SG lock button) and pin 15 (gnd) on the clock unit wiring?

 

yes, one of the 4 plugs to the security module is a 22 pin connector (the document lists pin outs and locations of the connectors too)

you would be picking up voltage when you bridge it bc the locking switch is always connected to power...it just opens and closes that circuit...

if you hold the button longer than a few seconds, the security module interprets that as a signal to close windows and the sunroof in addition to the locks

 

i get what you are saying but at the same time am a little confused and trying to wrap my head around this.
excuse me if i am wrong, but seeing voltage implies continuity. correct?
so if bypassing the switch and bridging the connection near the switch is showing voltage, this shows continuity in the circuit from the module to the ground?
and therefore should act as pressing the button?
because from what the wiring diagram tells me the power comes from the security module and earths out when the switch is pressed.

i will check the pins at the security module and check continuity of the wire from the module to the switch when i get a chance.

 

This is a depiction of my thoughts.

happy to hear where i am misguided as i am confused and love to learn.

i thought power for the switch was from the module.
but that makes no sense as if power came from the module then you could not test the pin 19 unless the module was plugged in, and in doing so grounding that pin out would close the circuit regardless of button push and you would not see and open circuit at all.
do i test pin 19 with the module plugged in or unplugged?

i thought i had a good understanding of electrics but this car with its modules and its negative triggers is showing i know nowhere near what i thought i did.
great for learning though. thats for sure

 

here is an example of the kind of thing that is confusing me.

when you look at the central lock wiring diagram it shows SG going direct to SLCM
but when you look at sliding roof controls you see it also runs to there.

is there a way to find out where splice points like CAS16 are?
to be able to work out where all wires run to?

 

Ah, yes that’s correct…and it should operate your locks when you bridge it

so if they aren’t working, there must be a problem somewhere else 🤔

 

They leave out a lot of steps in their procedure but essentially they expect you to disconnect the battery and the security module and then check for continuity from the 22 plug to the switch

 

unfortunately I’ve never been able to locate splices …I try to break down the harness into sections at the plug level and usually can find the issue from that

sometimes I do find damaged individual wires btw plugs by visual inspection but that’s the best I’ve been able to do…