HELLO EVERYONE,

IM HOPING SOMEONE CAN GIVE ME A DEFINITE ANSWER ON THIS. MY CAR IS A 2002 JAGUAR VDP. I NEED A DRIVERS SIDE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. I FOUND ONE ON EBAY FROM A 1998 AND THE SELLER SAYS IT WILL WORK ON MY CAR. CAN ANYONE CONFIRM THIS FOR ME?

AND HOW MUCH SHOULD I EXPECT TO PAY FOR LABOR TO HAVE IT INSTALLED? THANKS!

HERE IS A LINK SO YOU CAN LOOK AT THE ITEM..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JAGUA...Q5fAccessories

 

another point..in 50 attempts of locking the front door with my remote the door locked twice. Is this a sign that the door actuator is failing? or is it a sign that it is functional, but there is some other problem? like a fuse or wiring problem?

also to note i can push the lock down manually from inside the car, but it pops right back up.

any help is greatly appreciated.

 

anyone have any suggestions? if i dont have to buy a a new actuator and pay the rape labor to get the door panel off that would be awesome!

 

This post may not help much, but I wanted to put it out there just in case.

I haven't had the opportunity to remove my door panels yet, but I'm sure I will be at some point. (Seems at some point, I'll be looking at the whole car )

I bought a couple parts recently at my local pick-n-pull. The door lock actuators run $15ea.

Bad part is You have to remove them. Good part is, You have to remove them.

When I was pulling the parts I needed, I learned a lot about the car, all without breaking MY car. The parts I bought came off easily, but in the process, I was able to look into the doors because someone had already removed the door panel to one door. It looks like a little bit of a job to remove the actuator, but do-able. The insight is what was the best part of the trip, and again, without doing harm to my own vehicle. Remember to take your own tools.

I got a Fuel Door Actuator and an Electric Aux Heater Pump for $30 total. These parts would have cost me around $400 new. Both parts work flawlessly. The car I pulled them from looks to be low milage, so I plan to go get more, "usual suspect", parts shortly just to have them on hand. There were all kinds of switches, motors, actuators, hoses, pumps, valves, complete Working SunRoof, Computers, SuperCharger, etc... A lot of parts were as low as $5.

I recommend getting there early on a new salvage, because some people really thrash the cars getting to the parts they need. There were all sorts of broken parts in the car that were broken to get to other parts.
Good luck!

Stephen

 

TUS, I don't have experience of the XJ8, but how do your locks perform when you lock/unlock manually with the key?

Have you put new batteries in your remote, this can make a huge difference.

Also I seem to have read that the car may be 'thinking' that a door or trunk lid might be open and thus not allow you to lock the car and automatically unlock it after you have pushed a plunger.

With the doors closed, manually unlock each door around the car (starting with the drivers door), then relock the doors in reverse order. You need to be a bit athletic to get over the seats.

As regards changing the innards of a door, don't know how DIY you are, but they are not difficult, just fidley. (door card off in about 15mins if you have never done one before) and then you get to the meat and veg.

I took a series of pics inside an XJ40 door last year (very similar set up) I'll try to dig out the post, to give you an idea.

Supersport, I agree you can learn a lot by pulling your own parts from a breaker (been doing this for 35 years), but I am sure you will agree with me, that it is more than annoying when you find that some idiot has wrecked the part you need, just because they couldn't be bothered to remove it correctly.
PS I like your Jaguar Files link in your sig, nice idea.

 

I found a LOT of wrecked parts, and it was extremely frustrating, just to see good parts broken. (This car did not appear to have been in an accident) There was a rear view mirror that was torn in half. I have no idea what that was about. Someone didn't know how to remove it, so broke it instead? The console controls were torn apart. I'm assuming they were going for the bulbs (probably pocketed them without paying), but broke the console to get to them.

Two of the Leather seats were CUT to get to internal parts instead of just taking a little more time to open them properly. The wood Dash panels were broken and bent laying in the back seat. Again, probably in a rush to get what they needed behind them.

I still found enough parts to warrant my return (Seat Modules, Window Modules, Valve Covers/bolts, many electronics), and they also had about 5 other Jags there to choose from. I just picked the best of the lot.

 

Thanks for the replies! The first thing I would like to mention is I am not DIY. I really dont want to break anything so Ill probably pay to have it replaced.

Here is a big point I forgot to add. My car was stolen and they ruined the drivers door. It was replaced, but bc the new door has a different vin # my key does not lock it manually.

I was first told to go to a jaguar dealer and get a key cut for the door. I was then told I didnt have to do that as the door actuator solenoid needed to be replaced and that would correct the problem.

I just find it weird that if my actuator was broken how come about 10% of the time the door locks with my remote.

Also, all the other doors lock perfectly..always have.

I would love how to do this myself as I was charged 180.00 in labor (shop charges 90 an hour) to remove he driver door panel to see why my window wouldnt come up. They found a broken circuit in the yellow wire which caused a fuse to blow. They also replaced the door handle for 72.00 in labor. Seems quite high to me, but its either this shop or the dealer for me here in AZ.

I found a actuator on ebay for 60 bucks with shipping so i jumped on it and hopefully this solves the problem.

 

and supersport it would probably be worth your time to even get those parts and flip them on ebay. could be a fun little side hobby that puts some extra cash in your pocket.

 

and Richard,

I attempted your door locking game inside the car. Being 6'6'' 230 pounds it wasnt easy to be nimble, but I managed it. Drivers door lock wouldnt go down manually, but I did learn the jag stock alarm is pretty damn good..scared me lol

 

TUS, OK about you not being DIY, that's why we have good indi garages etc.

Just a couple of observations, replacing the exterior door handle is quite a fiddly job as they needed to dismantle the door card, then disconnect the latch and lock rods + microswitch and handle support and then put it all back together all inside a very limited space so the labour looks reasonable to me.

Idem diagnosing your window problem, it might have been a 10min fix, but they had to get there first.

To give you a better idea of what is involved have a look at this, Window problem.

Just a thought, what happens when you fire the dashboard locking switch, do you hear any sort of noise from the defective door?

There was a series of posts about stuck actuators towards the end of last year. Snag is, I seem to remember it was burried in a completely different thread, and right now I can't remember which Model or what the original thread was.

When I have drunk enough tea later in the day, hopefully it will come back to me.

Oh, BTW, I should have maybe said that you can also perform the door lock learning dance by reaching in through open windows and walking around the car.

Sorry about that. LOL

 

well its good to know that im being charged a fair labor charge. It will keep me going back to the indi shop i found.

After spending 500 plus fixing the windows i think im going to let them stay up and enjoy the ice cold AC! When it hits 120 here in the summer open windows is like sitting in front of a heater when the sizzling air melts your face!

Pressing that central button does make some sound in the drivers door. Ill listen to it more carefully tomorrow and get back to you. I guess i dont really know what kind of sound im listening for, but ill let you know if I hear anything odd.

 

theusualsuspect, and all,
I had the very same issue with my car. The problem is inside the actual electronic motor actuator. There is a small piece of plastic that slides as the lock goes up and down. It moves with the actuator, and then tips into a track letting the lock actuator pass, then repeats in reverse depending on lock or unlock. This piece can not be glued, or reinforced with fiberglass. If you are crafty, then a generic actuator may be the fix. Have not fixed mine as of yet, leaving it in manual lock mode. If you still have the old door and lock assembly, you could just replace the actuator motor and keep your original lock bypassing all programming woes.

Good Luck!

 

zayne, if i replace the whole actuator will it also replace that piece of plastic you are referring to as the problematic peice?

Im not crafty lol and dont have the old door anymore..it was pretty destroyed and by the time I thought to ask to keep it for parts it was already removed and insurance couldnt pin down where it went..

im going to try to replace the whole actuator and ill let u know if that fixes my problem.

I hope it does as I have a viper 991 alarm that is just sitting in the box as i cant get it installed until the drivers door actually locks consistently

 

My dash says driver side door open -lock doest work and window doesn't work either.
but all other doors work fine: could some one tell me the path to go and fix this problem thank you ,,,,,you guys rock!

 

Jummy,

you could be in the same boat as me with the windows and lock not working. My window went down and never came back up..turns out it was just a fuse. Hope for that as is a cheap fix. It could also be the motor or regulator.

As for the door locks not working my issue turned out to be the door lock actuator failing. You really have to get the door panel off to narrow down the issues. Good luck!

 

Yes, if you replace the mechanism it should fix the problem. Think of it as 2 parts. The first is the metal mechanism that is the door lock. This lock performs independantly an will lock and unlock manually. Then you have the motorized actuator that mounts to the mechanism and will move the lock up and down for you. The plastic piece I spoke of is inside the motorized actuator. The plastic has broken and jammed the motor. That is why you feel some give when trying to lock the door. The plastic is flexing, but never letting the mechanism lock.

 

that was very insightful. Thanks for the info!

 

This sound exactly like the issue I described in previous posts. I still have yet tr try a generic acuator, but I believe it could be done. There would be a bit of soldering or wire splicing to replace it. All that would be needed is a generic actuator motor with the same bolt pattern and would mate up to the lock lever.

 

actuator replaced. problem resolved! charged 350 in labor to install the actuator..ouch but at least my door locks now with the remote and manually. Good luck to everyone else with this problem..btw i got my new actuator on ebay for 60 bucks.