Engine Failsafe mode
#1
07-23-2012, 07:53 PM
Engine Failsafe mode
1998 XJ8 VdP, 63, 000 miles.
Today, the warning (yellow) light "engine fail safe mode" came on and stayed on until I restarted the ignition and it cleared. My code reader says P1111 and the 'suggested' fault is "timing belt". I had the P1111 code last year and I think I was told on this forum that it is meaningless.
The car performance is fine. Recently, one of the modules to the ignition was acting up and I got the "engine fail safe mode" during prolonged cranking and issues starting. I replaced the battery and the cranking issue went away for a couple of months then came back. The Jaguar mechanic said he saw this issue in another car, and he switched around a couple of the modules or fuses (the fan with a module to the starter, saying the latter is more sensitive to voltage). He also did this on my car. The problem with starting did go away.
Has anybody seen this and can you make sense of these issues?
Today, the warning (yellow) light "engine fail safe mode" came on and stayed on until I restarted the ignition and it cleared. My code reader says P1111 and the 'suggested' fault is "timing belt". I had the P1111 code last year and I think I was told on this forum that it is meaningless.
The car performance is fine. Recently, one of the modules to the ignition was acting up and I got the "engine fail safe mode" during prolonged cranking and issues starting. I replaced the battery and the cranking issue went away for a couple of months then came back. The Jaguar mechanic said he saw this issue in another car, and he switched around a couple of the modules or fuses (the fan with a module to the starter, saying the latter is more sensitive to voltage). He also did this on my car. The problem with starting did go away.
Has anybody seen this and can you make sense of these issues?
Last edited by Scottish Chap; 08-23-2012 at 10:24 PM.
#2
07-23-2012, 09:16 PM
Check the cruise control relay on the brake pedal
Lots of possible causes. When this happened on my 98 VDP I found the fault lay in the relay on the brake pedal controlling the cruise control shut-off. Easy to verify if it is the culprit - all you need to do is disable cruise control on the centre console and restart the car. In my case the fault didn't appear with cruise disabled.
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Scottish Chap (07-26-2012)
#3
07-24-2012, 05:22 AM
Lots of possible causes. When this happened on my 98 VDP I found the fault lay in the relay on the brake pedal controlling the cruise control shut-off. Easy to verify if it is the culprit - all you need to do is disable cruise control on the centre console and restart the car. In my case the fault didn't appear with cruise disabled.
Any other thoughts, folks?
#4
07-24-2012, 06:38 AM
The P1111 code is nothing to worry about it -- the car has a test mode and a few codes telling you if it went through ... Do a search of the forum and you will see them. It is not the timing belt -- no timing belt.
The electrical system is quite complex and requires that all the electronic modules talk to one another all the time -- any lapse in the communication and the car unfortunately goes into "failsafe". The early cars did have an issue with the connectors to the throttle body as well as some cars receiving a replacement throttle body from Jaguar. So you should make sure that all is well with your connections -- lots of information available on this
Also -- The brake switch is known to fail -- and since this is all tied into the cruise control and the throttle any fault and you can get the "failsafe".
Finally -- The throttle body could be causing the problem -- specifically the throttle position sensor ------ unfortunately not available separately from Jaguar ... although some shops are now rebuilding the Non SC cars Tbody. The Tbody from Jaguar is very expensive.
Since different things can cause the same warnings and they are so infrequent it is often difficult to tell if you actually did anything to fix the problem.
The x308 is very sensitive to a weak battery -- any drop in voltage and you can have all kinds of warnings. If the car does not start up for any reason and the battery is not able to crank the car at full voltage for the amount of time you need -- you can get the warnings. So it can be a combination of things -- I bet you just had a weak battery.
Good luck
The electrical system is quite complex and requires that all the electronic modules talk to one another all the time -- any lapse in the communication and the car unfortunately goes into "failsafe". The early cars did have an issue with the connectors to the throttle body as well as some cars receiving a replacement throttle body from Jaguar. So you should make sure that all is well with your connections -- lots of information available on this
Also -- The brake switch is known to fail -- and since this is all tied into the cruise control and the throttle any fault and you can get the "failsafe".
Finally -- The throttle body could be causing the problem -- specifically the throttle position sensor ------ unfortunately not available separately from Jaguar ... although some shops are now rebuilding the Non SC cars Tbody. The Tbody from Jaguar is very expensive.
Since different things can cause the same warnings and they are so infrequent it is often difficult to tell if you actually did anything to fix the problem.
The x308 is very sensitive to a weak battery -- any drop in voltage and you can have all kinds of warnings. If the car does not start up for any reason and the battery is not able to crank the car at full voltage for the amount of time you need -- you can get the warnings. So it can be a combination of things -- I bet you just had a weak battery.
Good luck
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Scottish Chap (07-26-2012)
#5
07-25-2012, 02:26 PM
Okay - major change today. Engine took almost 4 minutes to start and I am scared the car will leave me stranded.
Again, "engine failsafe mode" light was on while turnign over and not starting. Interestingly (and noted for the first time only based on the kind prompt above), my cruise control switch would not come on. I tried switching the cruise control on and off and on while pressing the brake and I noted the red LED would not come on. The engine then started after me playing with the cruise control switch. The cruise control light (red LED on cruise control switch on central console) came back on evgentually. Should I drive with this on or off to prevent this issue until I fix it?
Throttle body was cleaned by me a couple of months ago - some dirt but butterfly was opening with ease.
What are these symptoms consistent with? Where is this brake pedal switch and how do I change it if it is cheap?
I really appreciate any thoughts. I'm a relative beginner, but I am teachable.
Again, "engine failsafe mode" light was on while turnign over and not starting. Interestingly (and noted for the first time only based on the kind prompt above), my cruise control switch would not come on. I tried switching the cruise control on and off and on while pressing the brake and I noted the red LED would not come on. The engine then started after me playing with the cruise control switch. The cruise control light (red LED on cruise control switch on central console) came back on evgentually. Should I drive with this on or off to prevent this issue until I fix it?
Throttle body was cleaned by me a couple of months ago - some dirt but butterfly was opening with ease.
What are these symptoms consistent with? Where is this brake pedal switch and how do I change it if it is cheap?
I really appreciate any thoughts. I'm a relative beginner, but I am teachable.
Last edited by Scottish Chap; 07-25-2012 at 02:28 PM.
#6
07-25-2012, 03:34 PM
I can't tell you exactly what Jaguar has the car do when it is in "failsafe". I can tell you the car will not start correctly if you are trying to start it and "failsafe" is showing. I have had maybe 6 or 7 "failsafe" events with my 2002 in the past couple of years ...only once did it not clear after shutting it down and restarting ......In this one case I had to turn the car "off" and "on" a few times until the car went through the self test cleanly -- once the self test went through and only the odometer was displaying in the dash ......I turned the key to the start position and it fired right up.
The car has a motorized butterfly -- don't be playing around with it unless you do some research -- you can damage the mechanism and no parts are available for the Tbody. From what I am told "failsafe" turns off the motor to the Tbody - what else ...I do not know .... but you have no real control of the throttle.
In my case I always get the "failsafe" under the same condition - after driving about one mile after a cold start under medium steady throttle -- all of a sudden ... I lose power and "failsafe" is showing.
The brake switch is down by the pedal -- do a search -- Jaguar has a TSB on this and you can read the different scenarios. I would not get anything other than a factory part for this replacement -- they are available online and not all that expensive -- less that $50.00.
But who knows if that is your problem -- other things can be causing a slow start. Also ...you have an early car with other possible issues that can cause a slow start .... but they would probably not give you failsafe. To add to my earlier post -- The Tbody in the early cars was replaced for a stalling issue -- not the connector ... although that was a possible problem with them also.
I would see what happens with the cruise switch off for a while -- as a test. One note: Since "failsafe" turns systems off -- the cruise being one -- the light may have been off for that reason and none of this light "on" or "off" may be related to your problem. It may have been disabled and be working correctly.
In my case I think I have a dirty TPS but I'm not at a point that I think spending $2500.00 + labor on a new Tbody is warranted. If I could get the sensor separately I would replace it. I don't think the brake switch is my problem -- but I have thought of replacing it just to eliminate it as a possibility. Once...... I had a instrument cluster issue that I know caused the "failsafe" --- I could never properly trace the problem other then a bad feed from the temperature sensor .. someplace ...it has never occurred again.
Sorry I can't be more help -- this is one of the more frustrating issue with the car because so many thing can cause the problem. Play with the switch and make sure the "failsafe" is gone before restarting.
The car has a motorized butterfly -- don't be playing around with it unless you do some research -- you can damage the mechanism and no parts are available for the Tbody. From what I am told "failsafe" turns off the motor to the Tbody - what else ...I do not know .... but you have no real control of the throttle.
In my case I always get the "failsafe" under the same condition - after driving about one mile after a cold start under medium steady throttle -- all of a sudden ... I lose power and "failsafe" is showing.
The brake switch is down by the pedal -- do a search -- Jaguar has a TSB on this and you can read the different scenarios. I would not get anything other than a factory part for this replacement -- they are available online and not all that expensive -- less that $50.00.
But who knows if that is your problem -- other things can be causing a slow start. Also ...you have an early car with other possible issues that can cause a slow start .... but they would probably not give you failsafe. To add to my earlier post -- The Tbody in the early cars was replaced for a stalling issue -- not the connector ... although that was a possible problem with them also.
I would see what happens with the cruise switch off for a while -- as a test. One note: Since "failsafe" turns systems off -- the cruise being one -- the light may have been off for that reason and none of this light "on" or "off" may be related to your problem. It may have been disabled and be working correctly.
In my case I think I have a dirty TPS but I'm not at a point that I think spending $2500.00 + labor on a new Tbody is warranted. If I could get the sensor separately I would replace it. I don't think the brake switch is my problem -- but I have thought of replacing it just to eliminate it as a possibility. Once...... I had a instrument cluster issue that I know caused the "failsafe" --- I could never properly trace the problem other then a bad feed from the temperature sensor .. someplace ...it has never occurred again.
Sorry I can't be more help -- this is one of the more frustrating issue with the car because so many thing can cause the problem. Play with the switch and make sure the "failsafe" is gone before restarting.
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Scottish Chap (07-26-2012)
#7
07-25-2012, 03:45 PM
Veteran Member
Hi
The brake pedal sensor is part# LNB 6420BB and its list price on gaudin jaguar parts website is $83.00 (discounted down to $67.44 plus shipping).
Most of aftermarket replacements are same price or even more money (Ebay $73 free shipping -mfg Genuine).
Here is a Brake pedal switch thread (photos of part and other forum links to cleaning, removal/install) - view post# 8:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-light-76654/
Jim Lombardi
The brake pedal sensor is part# LNB 6420BB and its list price on gaudin jaguar parts website is $83.00 (discounted down to $67.44 plus shipping).
Most of aftermarket replacements are same price or even more money (Ebay $73 free shipping -mfg Genuine).
Here is a Brake pedal switch thread (photos of part and other forum links to cleaning, removal/install) - view post# 8:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-light-76654/
Jim Lombardi
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Scottish Chap (07-26-2012)
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#8
07-25-2012, 04:51 PM
Jim has the correct TSB -- as you can see some XJ's Jaguar has you replace the brake pedal -- I have no idea why ... but I did not want to get into all of that.
They must also have an old style and a new style switch?
Clearly thinking of another car as to the cost of the switch -- I had inquired about it about a year ago -- just pick one up for an MB for about $35.00?
They must also have an old style and a new style switch?
Clearly thinking of another car as to the cost of the switch -- I had inquired about it about a year ago -- just pick one up for an MB for about $35.00?
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Scottish Chap (07-26-2012)
#9
07-26-2012, 06:55 PM
I can't tell you exactly what Jaguar has the car do when it is in "failsafe". I can tell you the car will not start correctly if you are trying to start it and "failsafe" is showing. I have had maybe 6 or 7 "failsafe" events with my 2002 in the past couple of years ...only once did it not clear after shutting it down and restarting ......In this one case I had to turn the car "off" and "on" a few times until the car went through the self test cleanly -- once the self test went through and only the odometer was displaying in the dash ......I turned the key to the start position and it fired right up.
The car has a motorized butterfly -- don't be playing around with it unless you do some research -- you can damage the mechanism and no parts are available for the Tbody. From what I am told "failsafe" turns off the motor to the Tbody - what else ...I do not know .... but you have no real control of the throttle.
In my case I always get the "failsafe" under the same condition - after driving about one mile after a cold start under medium steady throttle -- all of a sudden ... I lose power and "failsafe" is showing.
The brake switch is down by the pedal -- do a search -- Jaguar has a TSB on this and you can read the different scenarios. I would not get anything other than a factory part for this replacement -- they are available online and not all that expensive -- less that $50.00.
But who knows if that is your problem -- other things can be causing a slow start. Also ...you have an early car with other possible issues that can cause a slow start .... but they would probably not give you failsafe. To add to my earlier post -- The Tbody in the early cars was replaced for a stalling issue -- not the connector ... although that was a possible problem with them also.
I would see what happens with the cruise switch off for a while -- as a test. One note: Since "failsafe" turns systems off -- the cruise being one -- the light may have been off for that reason and none of this light "on" or "off" may be related to your problem. It may have been disabled and be working correctly.
In my case I think I have a dirty TPS but I'm not at a point that I think spending $2500.00 + labor on a new Tbody is warranted. If I could get the sensor separately I would replace it. I don't think the brake switch is my problem -- but I have thought of replacing it just to eliminate it as a possibility. Once...... I had a instrument cluster issue that I know caused the "failsafe" --- I could never properly trace the problem other then a bad feed from the temperature sensor .. someplace ...it has never occurred again.
Sorry I can't be more help -- this is one of the more frustrating issue with the car because so many thing can cause the problem. Play with the switch and make sure the "failsafe" is gone before restarting.
The car has a motorized butterfly -- don't be playing around with it unless you do some research -- you can damage the mechanism and no parts are available for the Tbody. From what I am told "failsafe" turns off the motor to the Tbody - what else ...I do not know .... but you have no real control of the throttle.
In my case I always get the "failsafe" under the same condition - after driving about one mile after a cold start under medium steady throttle -- all of a sudden ... I lose power and "failsafe" is showing.
The brake switch is down by the pedal -- do a search -- Jaguar has a TSB on this and you can read the different scenarios. I would not get anything other than a factory part for this replacement -- they are available online and not all that expensive -- less that $50.00.
But who knows if that is your problem -- other things can be causing a slow start. Also ...you have an early car with other possible issues that can cause a slow start .... but they would probably not give you failsafe. To add to my earlier post -- The Tbody in the early cars was replaced for a stalling issue -- not the connector ... although that was a possible problem with them also.
I would see what happens with the cruise switch off for a while -- as a test. One note: Since "failsafe" turns systems off -- the cruise being one -- the light may have been off for that reason and none of this light "on" or "off" may be related to your problem. It may have been disabled and be working correctly.
In my case I think I have a dirty TPS but I'm not at a point that I think spending $2500.00 + labor on a new Tbody is warranted. If I could get the sensor separately I would replace it. I don't think the brake switch is my problem -- but I have thought of replacing it just to eliminate it as a possibility. Once...... I had a instrument cluster issue that I know caused the "failsafe" --- I could never properly trace the problem other then a bad feed from the temperature sensor .. someplace ...it has never occurred again.
Sorry I can't be more help -- this is one of the more frustrating issue with the car because so many thing can cause the problem. Play with the switch and make sure the "failsafe" is gone before restarting.
The "engine failsafe mode" light appears only to come on when the the cruise control master in the central console is switched OFF. When I get the error message (only when the cruise control master is in the OFF position; I have yet to see the message when this switch is in the ON position), I have reproducibly been able to get the the error message to clear by switching the cruise control master in the central console on and off a couple of times until the red LED appears. I have tried various permutations of start (other switches, pumping gas, pressing down on brake etc.). I could try to just drive with the cruise control master on for a while and if that's the only issue, but....
Based on these symptoms, has anyone seen this, and is it worth changing out the brake switch? I did read extensively on this forum, but my own situation is subtly different from what others have experienced. Keep in mind that the Jaguar mechanic said he changed around a couple of the modules in the left side black box under the hood so that "the starter and fans were drawing from different modules' (paraphrased). I appreciate that this warning could mean many things. Again, the P1111 is the only code read, and the vehicle did have a new throttle body placed 40K miles ago by the previous owner (XJ8 VdP, 63K miles). I appreciate any advice.
Last edited by Scottish Chap; 07-26-2012 at 07:04 PM.
#10
07-26-2012, 09:53 PM
You should really read ALL the modules on the CAN bus to see if any have network faults pointing to another module. The entire picture might help find the fault.
Reading just one module on the network may not help.
Moving relays around is a good idea but you have to know which ones are for the ECM,TCM,ABS,Ignition,Throttle etc.
bob gauff
Reading just one module on the network may not help.
Moving relays around is a good idea but you have to know which ones are for the ECM,TCM,ABS,Ignition,Throttle etc.
bob gauff
#11
07-26-2012, 10:52 PM
You should really read ALL the modules on the CAN bus to see if any have network faults pointing to another module. The entire picture might help find the fault.
Reading just one module on the network may not help.
Moving relays around is a good idea but you have to know which ones are for the ECM,TCM,ABS,Ignition,Throttle etc.
bob gauff
Reading just one module on the network may not help.
Moving relays around is a good idea but you have to know which ones are for the ECM,TCM,ABS,Ignition,Throttle etc.
bob gauff
Any other practical advice for me right now? What about the brake switch?
#12
08-23-2012, 10:14 PM
"failsafe engine mode"
The problem still persists - after one month of no issues, "failsafe engine mode" came on again in the last few days, usually clearing when I turn the ignition key again once or twice. Consistently the cruise control LED (and only the cruise control LED) is out when this error message occurs. There are no codes.
Since these symptoms are often related to a faulty brake switch for the 1998 xJ8 VdP, I changed it out--and it did not make any difference. It actually took around 15 minutes for the "failsafe engine mode" message to clear after installation. The message to clear immediately after I unplugged the wiring harness from the brake switch and plugged it back in. I recall the Jaguar mechanic saying he cleared this message right away by unplugging something under the hood; he then switched around a couple of the modules, hoping this would work.
To recap:"failsafe engine mode" is coming on intermittently with the amber warning light - sometimes the engine will start with this message and the message will stay displayed. The throttle body which was an issue on this model was replaced by recall prior to me buying it. The throttle body does have a little soot in there, but the butterfly easily opens when the gas is applied. Replacing the battery made the message go away for a few months. Switching around some of the modules (starter <> fan, for example) made the message go away for a few weeks. When the "failsafe engine mode" comes on, the cruise control light goes out, and will come back on when the error message comes on. The starter is fine. The battery is new. It seemed that the error message would come more often with the cruise control light OFF (maybe coincidence) but now it does not matter--it can happen when it is on or off, but the consistent thing is always that the light will not come on when I see this awful error message.
I am afraid this car has me puzzled, and it may strand me. I am convinced someone else must have seen this, and would really appreciate some insight. It seems wrong to throw parts at this. Is there a short somewhere?
Thanks in advance. I will keep you updated if the problem resolves.
Since these symptoms are often related to a faulty brake switch for the 1998 xJ8 VdP, I changed it out--and it did not make any difference. It actually took around 15 minutes for the "failsafe engine mode" message to clear after installation. The message to clear immediately after I unplugged the wiring harness from the brake switch and plugged it back in. I recall the Jaguar mechanic saying he cleared this message right away by unplugging something under the hood; he then switched around a couple of the modules, hoping this would work.
To recap:"failsafe engine mode" is coming on intermittently with the amber warning light - sometimes the engine will start with this message and the message will stay displayed. The throttle body which was an issue on this model was replaced by recall prior to me buying it. The throttle body does have a little soot in there, but the butterfly easily opens when the gas is applied. Replacing the battery made the message go away for a few months. Switching around some of the modules (starter <> fan, for example) made the message go away for a few weeks. When the "failsafe engine mode" comes on, the cruise control light goes out, and will come back on when the error message comes on. The starter is fine. The battery is new. It seemed that the error message would come more often with the cruise control light OFF (maybe coincidence) but now it does not matter--it can happen when it is on or off, but the consistent thing is always that the light will not come on when I see this awful error message.
I am afraid this car has me puzzled, and it may strand me. I am convinced someone else must have seen this, and would really appreciate some insight. It seems wrong to throw parts at this. Is there a short somewhere?
Thanks in advance. I will keep you updated if the problem resolves.
Last edited by Scottish Chap; 08-23-2012 at 10:26 PM.
#13
08-24-2012, 06:16 AM
Veteran Member
Hi Scottish Chap
Did you see the forum thread "Cuise Control not working"? Forum member sar98vdp posting:
"On 98's the cruise is vacuum controlled. If you find the brake switch relay is OK (my thought on 1st point of failure as well) check for a vacuum leak or disconnected line. As memory serves it runs from the firewall on the Left side to the the throttle body. "
The JTIS manual says "On the right-hand side of the elbow a large diameter pipe connects to the brake servo. The smaller pipe provides a vacuum feed to the fuel rail pressure regulator and throttle cruise control system. "
The elbow is called the induction elbow in the JEPC catalog (also called the intake elbow in the JTIS shop manual). The throttle body is mounted on top of the elbow.
The Emission Evap system diagram shows hose on the EVAP purge valve outlet and mentions EVAP purge valve outlet to induction elbow.
Try checking the elbow vacuum hose for leaks. It probably will not be an easy task since the elbow is below the throttle body.
Jim Lombardi
Did you see the forum thread "Cuise Control not working"? Forum member sar98vdp posting:
"On 98's the cruise is vacuum controlled. If you find the brake switch relay is OK (my thought on 1st point of failure as well) check for a vacuum leak or disconnected line. As memory serves it runs from the firewall on the Left side to the the throttle body. "
The JTIS manual says "On the right-hand side of the elbow a large diameter pipe connects to the brake servo. The smaller pipe provides a vacuum feed to the fuel rail pressure regulator and throttle cruise control system. "
The elbow is called the induction elbow in the JEPC catalog (also called the intake elbow in the JTIS shop manual). The throttle body is mounted on top of the elbow.
The Emission Evap system diagram shows hose on the EVAP purge valve outlet and mentions EVAP purge valve outlet to induction elbow.
Try checking the elbow vacuum hose for leaks. It probably will not be an easy task since the elbow is below the throttle body.
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 08-24-2012 at 06:49 AM.
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Scottish Chap (08-24-2012)
#14
08-24-2012, 08:13 AM
Hi Scottish Chap
Did you see the forum thread "Cuise Control not working"? Forum member sar98vdp posting:
"On 98's the cruise is vacuum controlled. If you find the brake switch relay is OK (my thought on 1st point of failure as well) check for a vacuum leak or disconnected line. As memory serves it runs from the firewall on the Left side to the the throttle body. "
The JTIS manual says "On the right-hand side of the elbow a large diameter pipe connects to the brake servo. The smaller pipe provides a vacuum feed to the fuel rail pressure regulator and throttle cruise control system. "
The elbow is called the induction elbow in the JEPC catalog (also called the intake elbow in the JTIS shop manual). The throttle body is mounted on top of the elbow.
The Emission Evap system diagram shows hose on the EVAP purge valve outlet and mentions EVAP purge valve outlet to induction elbow.
Try checking the elbow vacuum hose for leaks. It probably will not be an easy task since the elbow is below the throttle body.
Jim Lombardi
Did you see the forum thread "Cuise Control not working"? Forum member sar98vdp posting:
"On 98's the cruise is vacuum controlled. If you find the brake switch relay is OK (my thought on 1st point of failure as well) check for a vacuum leak or disconnected line. As memory serves it runs from the firewall on the Left side to the the throttle body. "
The JTIS manual says "On the right-hand side of the elbow a large diameter pipe connects to the brake servo. The smaller pipe provides a vacuum feed to the fuel rail pressure regulator and throttle cruise control system. "
The elbow is called the induction elbow in the JEPC catalog (also called the intake elbow in the JTIS shop manual). The throttle body is mounted on top of the elbow.
The Emission Evap system diagram shows hose on the EVAP purge valve outlet and mentions EVAP purge valve outlet to induction elbow.
Try checking the elbow vacuum hose for leaks. It probably will not be an easy task since the elbow is below the throttle body.
Jim Lombardi
I opened the plastic cover over the left engine bay (where the brake master cylinder is). I did look for leaks around the cruise control air vacuum solenoid valves and I traced the lines coming out of these - there appear to be no obvious cracks or areas of damage on those lines. I did look for the cruise control balloons above the left tire but could not see them. With this issue going away for a few months immediately after a new battery was placed and also after some of the modules were switched around, is it possible my problem electrical rather than mechanical (of course the battery may be been bad anyway, giving a case of 'true, true , unrelated)?
Last edited by Scottish Chap; 08-24-2012 at 10:55 AM.
#15
08-24-2012, 10:56 AM
With almost 100% consistency, the "failsafe engine mode" warning will come on when the cruise control is in the OFF position, and will not happen as often when it's in the ON position. Again, regardless of whether the cruise control button is selected, the LED will not illuminate if the button is pressed when I get this warning (and of course the engine won't start if the warning is there BEFORE I engage the flywheel; I can get it to start if the warning appears once it has cranked for a second). My problem seems to be subtly different from the problem most people experience. Any insight?
#16
08-24-2012, 06:45 PM
Who Knows!
Hi,
I have had this on and off failsafe for several years. Was getting ready to replace throttle body but first tried a new battery with no results.
By accident left the scanner hooked up for several days and new battery drained. Jumped and let run for a while to recharge.
Now, 500 miles later and no problem even though failsafe would come on almost every start before that.
Had tried scan erase as well as hard reboot and connecting positive to negative all night.
It is extreme but you might want to drain the whole battery system and then recharge.
Good Luck
I have had this on and off failsafe for several years. Was getting ready to replace throttle body but first tried a new battery with no results.
By accident left the scanner hooked up for several days and new battery drained. Jumped and let run for a while to recharge.
Now, 500 miles later and no problem even though failsafe would come on almost every start before that.
Had tried scan erase as well as hard reboot and connecting positive to negative all night.
It is extreme but you might want to drain the whole battery system and then recharge.
Good Luck
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Scottish Chap (08-24-2012)
#17
08-25-2012, 07:31 AM
Veteran Member
Hi Scottish Chap
You might be able to just have to remove the bulhead covers in the engine compartment and the engine cover on the driver side to access the vacuum hose on the induction elbow.
If not, then it gets to be a harder job to accomplish (removing the throttle body).
I had to remove the throttle body recently to send out for a rebuild. I did not have a tool to remove the quick connect for one of the hoses on the the throttle body and broke the quick connect. (hose with the quick connect list price is $80, but I paid $45).
I also had a problem with removing the front mounting bolts on the throttle body (I have some arthritis in both hands) - not much room between the throttle body and the intake manifold.
XJ (X308) Intake (Induction) Elbow Illustration
A26 Throttle Body assemblied with Induction Elbow, Also Intake Manifold shown in the illustration
Jim Lombardi
You might be able to just have to remove the bulhead covers in the engine compartment and the engine cover on the driver side to access the vacuum hose on the induction elbow.
If not, then it gets to be a harder job to accomplish (removing the throttle body).
I had to remove the throttle body recently to send out for a rebuild. I did not have a tool to remove the quick connect for one of the hoses on the the throttle body and broke the quick connect. (hose with the quick connect list price is $80, but I paid $45).
I also had a problem with removing the front mounting bolts on the throttle body (I have some arthritis in both hands) - not much room between the throttle body and the intake manifold.
XJ (X308) Intake (Induction) Elbow Illustration
A26 Throttle Body assemblied with Induction Elbow, Also Intake Manifold shown in the illustration
Jim Lombardi
#18
08-31-2012, 05:01 AM
Senior Member
2000 XJ8.
Found this thread searching for solution to my problem.
I just had Failsafe Engine Mode message light up with amber light. I was driving 65 on the freeway. No noticeable change in drivability except cruise control not working. I slowed to 55 & continued to my destination. After parking for 2 hours, restarted & no light/message. Got home & tested for codes with OBD2 reader Innova 3130. No stored codes, just the usual P1111 everything OK Jaguar code.
Just wanted to add 2 points to this discussion. I always leave my cruise control main switch on. So this happened to me with it on & while actively using cruise control. (I cannot not speed w/o this crutch <GRIN>) Also, When I 1st bought my OBD2 I was puzzled that I never got the all clear green light & instead got 1 “code.” To see what that code was, I had to select my car make from a list. When I did It said “ Jaguar P1111.” I called Innova & they told me it was not really a fault code but, for some makes, like Jaguar, it is the way this particular OBD2 & some others tell you everything is OK & the car passed all the diagnostics. “System Passed.” So if you get P1111, your car will pass emissions for example. Just wanted to make clear that P1111 is not just a code you need not worry about but, it is in fact what you WANT to see with some OBD2 readers.
Based on this thread I am concerned I will be seeing much more of my Failsafe Engine Mode message light. I was hoping to find an error code it would be an easy fix with help from this forum.
I think next time it happens I will experiment with turning off the master Cruise Control switch.
Found this thread searching for solution to my problem.
I just had Failsafe Engine Mode message light up with amber light. I was driving 65 on the freeway. No noticeable change in drivability except cruise control not working. I slowed to 55 & continued to my destination. After parking for 2 hours, restarted & no light/message. Got home & tested for codes with OBD2 reader Innova 3130. No stored codes, just the usual P1111 everything OK Jaguar code.
Just wanted to add 2 points to this discussion. I always leave my cruise control main switch on. So this happened to me with it on & while actively using cruise control. (I cannot not speed w/o this crutch <GRIN>) Also, When I 1st bought my OBD2 I was puzzled that I never got the all clear green light & instead got 1 “code.” To see what that code was, I had to select my car make from a list. When I did It said “ Jaguar P1111.” I called Innova & they told me it was not really a fault code but, for some makes, like Jaguar, it is the way this particular OBD2 & some others tell you everything is OK & the car passed all the diagnostics. “System Passed.” So if you get P1111, your car will pass emissions for example. Just wanted to make clear that P1111 is not just a code you need not worry about but, it is in fact what you WANT to see with some OBD2 readers.
Based on this thread I am concerned I will be seeing much more of my Failsafe Engine Mode message light. I was hoping to find an error code it would be an easy fix with help from this forum.
I think next time it happens I will experiment with turning off the master Cruise Control switch.
#19
08-31-2012, 05:29 AM
Veteran Member
Surely the fact that the fault went completely away after changing the battery points to an electrical problem either at or near the battery.
Check the battery voltage with + without the engine running, terminals, crimps (there are instances of the +ve wire crimp being bad) and the earth lead to body connection.
It would also be worth checking voltage at something like the fuse for the ECM (sorry, I don't know which that is on this model) with and without the Failsafe Mode showing.
Check the battery voltage with + without the engine running, terminals, crimps (there are instances of the +ve wire crimp being bad) and the earth lead to body connection.
It would also be worth checking voltage at something like the fuse for the ECM (sorry, I don't know which that is on this model) with and without the Failsafe Mode showing.
#20
09-01-2012, 08:48 AM
Sometimes a vehicle specific diagnostic computer like WDS/IDS will find a DTC in another module that will help find the fault.
Some 'scanners' will also read 'PENDING CODES' that might help as well.
I have used a generic scanner and THEN WDS only to find additional DTCs stored that the generic missed.
bob gauff
Some 'scanners' will also read 'PENDING CODES' that might help as well.
I have used a generic scanner and THEN WDS only to find additional DTCs stored that the generic missed.
bob gauff