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That would be the last thing I'd want to attach it to!
First question is where do you want the sub? Do you want to build a box across the back of the trunk, against the fuel tank? Or would you be better off using the recesses on the side?
If you use the left hand side, you should find some existing mounting points from the factory cd stacker bracket. I can't remember exactly what's on the right hand side, but I imagine there's something similar near the antenna.
Good point, forgot to mention that the sub is going to be mounted in a "truck box" enclosure. The sub is 12", the enclosure is 15x20 (depth of 8" at base, 5" at top), so as far as I can tell the only location it will fit upright is flush against the end of the trunk (in front of the fuel tank, under the top lip just before the trunk lid begins).
How do I keep this ginormous box from shifting around the trunk?
Bungee cord might work, but would look really ghetto, lol.
What's wrong with mounting to the fuel tank steel straps?
Depending on where your box sits, or how big, you could use simple L brackets on the box and tapped into the floor pan with self tapping screws. Since the gas tank isn't under the floor, there's very little to worry about. I would back the screws out after you first mount it, and use some sealant, and then screw them back down. That way you aren't compromising any of the strapping for the tank, and it's still easily removable when needed.
Likewise, if you needed to, you could use a bolt through the bracket, through the spare tire cover. Would be a little trickier to mount, but you could get those little threaded insert things that have the points on them, to kind of "attach" them to the cover from underneath the hole so you aren't trying to put the cover AND box in all at the same time. Would take a bit more patience to do first, but it's an option. Either way, it doesn't take much to keep it from sliding. Hell, you might even be able to use velcro strips on the bottom of the box and have that work instead.
I wasn't planning to make holes in the car. The sub+box is quite large and heavy and will certainly shift under acceleration/cornering without some kind of mounting or bracing.
I ran dual 12" in a 5/8 MDF sealed box in the trunk of a car before, with three amps bolted to the back of it. The entire assembly approached near 150 lbs. Two L-brackets with self-tapping screws, it never moved once. However, if you are that concerned about it moving and sliding, then you either will need to be creative, OR, you will have to settle for two 1/4" holes in the floor of the trunk under the carpet. Especially if it's as heavy as you expect it to be, do you want THAT kind of weight to be placing strain on the gas straps?
I haven't had the panel off in a few months to remember what was behind it and where the tank is, but especially with as fragile as the fuel pumps are to start with, I want as little actually touching that tank as possible lol.
It's heavy, but nowhere near what you got, maybe 15 lbs. (weight of a large watermelon) and the box is carpeted so there is friction to keep it in place. Relative to the weight of a full fuel tank, this is nothing, like adding the weight of about 3 gallons of fuel.
Do you drive like Miss Daisy? I'm asking because NYC driving tends to be quite rough at times, hard stopping/avoidance maneuvers are fairly frequent, and enjoying off the line WOT acceleration is among life's pleasures as a Jag owner, lol. Just need the sub to stay grounded.
I'm really averse to putting holes in a steel bodied Jaguar...
CharlzO is onto it. L brackets up into the parcel tray will work well, there should be a couple of existing bolt holes you can use.
For the bottom, you're not going to be able to remove the spare wheel cover without removing the sub box first, so you might as well utilise that panel to secure it as well. Another couple of L brackets at the bottom and it won't be going anywhere.
From what I recall, the fuel tank doesn't really have anywhere useful for you to use as a mount in the first place?
In the pic below, you can see a couple of pieces of wood that were epoxied to my car and used as bottom mounting points for my amp rack. You could do something similar?
CharlzO is onto it. L brackets up into the parcel tray will work well, there should be a couple of existing bolt holes you can use.
For the bottom, you're not going to be able to remove the spare wheel cover without removing the sub box first, so you might as well utilise that panel to secure it as well. Another couple of L brackets at the bottom and it won't be going anywhere.
From what I recall, the fuel tank doesn't really have anywhere useful for you to use as a mount in the first place?
In the pic below, you can see a couple of pieces of wood that were epoxied to my car and used as bottom mounting points for my amp rack. You could do something similar?
That epoxied wood is clever!
So I've put a D-hook around the base of the right side fuel tank strap (about where your wood is) and then used a flat bungee strap to form a cradle under the sub to the lip before the trunk lid - a bit handcrafted looking but it works. Also added several lateral straps to only the trunk lip (which has several possible mounting points) which are essentially invisible within the 2" gap above the enclosure.
The amp was just velcroed to the trunk floor, thank you for the velcro suggestion :-) it works great!
Jumping in kind of late, but if you look up under the area above the fuel tank...the area between the rear glass and the trunk arms. You'll see drilled and tapped holes in the stamped structure. I believe they are 1/4 20's or 12/24's...I really don't recall. Either way you can use that as a mounting point and even ad a few more drilled and tapped areas for your convenience.
Jumping in kind of late, but if you look up under the area above the fuel tank...the area between the rear glass and the trunk arms. You'll see drilled and tapped holes in the stamped structure. I believe they are 1/4 20's or 12/24's...I really don't recall. Either way you can use that as a mounting point and even ad a few more drilled and tapped areas for your convenience.
I did, that is what I was referring to as "the lip before the trunk lid" - the issue is finding some mounting point at the base too.
Ahhhh,....do you know what a rivnut or rivet nut is? I don't know if you want to go through the expense of getting a kit, but you can put a threaded insert in about anywhere. I use them for my work and they are pretty useful. There are 2 different types, one crimps down like a rivet and then there's another that is similar, but one half the piece slips into and expands the other to a tight fit (my preferred one). Be sure not to under or over crimp one or it'll be loose or you can strip out the threads. I recommend spraying the drilled hole with primer, especially if exposed to the elements.
This is just an example of one, its literally the same price I paid for my Stanley 22 yrs ago. You can see it comes with a variety of thread sizes. https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool...Rivet+Nut+Tool
As with most HF tools, I consider them single-use, but I've got two of those tools (I lost one, bought a new one, found the other). I used them to attach the base of the plate for my sailboat mast on, and it worked perfectly. So for something like this it should be plenty adequate.
09-13-2016, 06:38 PM
