This post is a follow-up to another thread I started regarding some fault turn-signal and other lamp-related electronic issues. I decided to make a new thread because the issue now is really the air bag...

I am ready to open the steering wheel to uncover the multi-function stalk (turn-signal control) and inspect the solder joints, etc. I did continuity tests on the front-lower turn-signal indicator lights (under the headlamps and above the fog lights) and determined that the socket on the left side is fine and that its bulb is fine (in fact, I swapped left- and right-side sockets and the signal still worked only on the right side and not on the left side).

My only concern in doing this repair-effort myself is the air bag. I don't understand if it can go off if I disconnect the battery. For example, I know that the seat belt restraints can activate without any electrical power because there is a compressed-gas container behind each restraint. I obviously don't want any unpleasant air-bag deployment accidents while I'm sitting in the driver's seat wielding a soldering iron to troubleshoot a turn-signal issue. (Not having a left-front turn-signal indicator is becoming a safety issue because I need to make a left turn out of my community and oncoming cars cannot see that I intend to turn left. I am bothered that people think I don't feel I need to signal--already, some drivers seem annoyed when they see I'm turning and didn't have the decency to signal... I try to use a hand signal but that only makes me look like I can't be bothered to hit the turn-signal lever! Besides, who uses hand signals any more and do other drivers even know what they mean any more?)

Ideally, I'd like to disconnect battery first--wait however many minutes/hours I need to wait, then disconnect the air bag if possible and set it aside. Then I can get out my soldering iron and go to work without wearing a hockey mask...

Does anyone have any ideas/thoughts regarding the air bag? Would it be wisest to go to a mechanic, pay for him to disconnect the air bag and reinstall it? Will my car notify me if the air bag hasn't been properly re-connected (yes, I don't trust anyone these days... except the fine people on this forum ...)?

Regards,
Jon500

 

If you disconnect the battery and wait a couple of minutes, you are 100% safe.
The air back connector is only 2 wires and pretty hard to connect wrong. Yes, the airbag light will be on if the airbag is not connected correctly

 

OK, thank you--I like 100%.
I will keep the battery disconnected when I re-attach the air bag connector and then will put the steering wheel back together. Only then will I re-connect the battery. If there is any static charge that could deploy the air bag upon re-connection, I trust that this procedure will prove to be the safest approach. I like that the battery is in the trunk--I will be out of harm's way should something go awry.

Not knowing anything about air-bag detonation triggers, I feel almost as though I'm playing with a loaded grenade. On the other hand, it can't be too easy to get wrong because we all know that there are all sorts of bozos out there working on these vehicles--and you never hear about air bags going off randomly.

Thank you for indulging my concerns.

If I end up fixing the multi-function stalk and its connections as a result of this effort, I will share my experience with this forum.

Regards,
Jon500

 

I took few steering wheels/airbags off without ever disconnecting the battery, but I will not suggest it to anyone.

If you want to be completely safe, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and touch it to positive post for at least 15 seconds. This will discharge all capacitors, and render the airbag inop. Leave the neg cable disconnected, and go to work. No worries.

 

OK, thank you--I like 100%.
I will keep the battery disconnected when I re-attach the air bag connector and then will put the steering wheel back together. Only then will I re-connect the battery. If there is any static charge that could deploy the air bag upon re-connection, I trust that this procedure will prove to be the safest approach. I like that the battery is in the trunk--I will be out of harm's way should something go awry.

Yes, waiting to have the airbag and steering on before connecting the battery is the right way to do it. No static charge to worry about, The airbag canister need 12v applied to it to go off.(or on should I say?)

 

@danielsand: You must be an Austin Powers fan because you clearly like to live dangerously.

Thanks for all the tips. I feel better now.

I'll get to my little project during the first or second weekend in November.

Regards,
Jon500

 

Disconnecting the negative lead of the battery and touching it to the positive post will discharge the capacitors. Ebay has clocksprings with turn signals for around $60. I found having a spare EVERYTHING was handy for figuring out where a broken wire was supposed to connect.

 

@Lear45: "clocksprings with turn signals"

Sorry, I have no idea what that means...

Also, is there any electrical risk to touching the disconnected negative lead of the car to the positive post (disconnected, right?) of the battery? It sounds bad. Would discharging the capacitors also happen if I just disconnect the battery then turn on the headlights or other electrical circuits, such putting the key into the ignition so that accessories such as the radio and AC are in their "on" position?

Regards,
Jon500

 

The clockspring is the mechanism that allows wiring to coil and uncoil when you turn the steering wheel. The Airbag, cruise control and radio controls and other items that are controlled on the steering wheel have the wiring go through the clockspring. Try to buy
all the steering wheel wiring rather than just part of it. You will use the other pieces eventually.

The negative post of the battery is not connected to anything. There is not a current path. This confuses a lot of people. Some people disconnect BOTH battery leads and
touch them together with the battery totally out of the circuit. Either way will work.
No spark, no short as long as the negative terminal of the battery isn't touching anything.

 

@Lear45: Thank you for bringing my attention to the clockspring mechanism. I hope the issues I have are simply related to a couple of visible solder-joint problems (as others have reported). If things are more complex than that, I'll definitely order parts.

I like the idea of disconnecting the battery completely and touching the positive/negative wires to drain any current from the system. Thanks.

 

Forgive me for jumping in on this two year old thread but it seems like this might be where I need to be. Hopefully, someone will read this that knows what I am talking about.
I am hearing a clicking noise in my steering wheel as it turns. Now the cruise control is not working and the failsafe engine mode verbiage is on the dash. Yesterday the horn would beep now and again by itself and then it went into full train mode and no matter what I did it wouldn't turn off until I pulled both fuses.
I have done a couple of hard starts but this doesn't help.
So, I removed the top and bottom cowling covers from the steering column and I can see that the black plastic cover which has the writing on it (center here) align tires in center etc. looks like it is supposed to be flush but it no longer is. the white part is pushing it out which is creating the noise. It is a wire (copper) that is white covered and it is unspooling. I believe this is the clockspring you are referring to?? I do not know if I am able to pull the steering wheel so I stopped there. The wheel would have to be removed to get to these parts and replace.
So, am I on the right track? Is this what is causing the horn ablowing, the cruise control to shut off, and the failsafe engine light to come on?
Recent repairs are the octopus hose and rack and pinion steering column in last few weeks.

2002 Vanden Plas Super 8 (supercharged) 110,000 miles sarasota Florida

 

BTW...even though it says remove steering wheel, you get get switch out without wheel removal. did mine Friday. Harness disconnects at several places.(At the clockspring, panel dimmer and auro exit switch, two connectors under lower dash cove. Gray and a yellow i think.

 

This would certainly be preferred. Can you tell me how this is done and is there a link which describes how to change out the clock spring?








2002 Vanden Plas Super 8 110k sarasota fl

 

I know that Rab (Kingfisher) would be interested in a HOW TO for the clockspring too!!

 

The ruski's like to play with old air bags, you can see how powerful they are:


Vector

 

For the benefit of others with the same problem.
Gaudin Jaguar has new ones for about $145.
1 have not had good luck on ebay. 2 bad ones with various issues.
You will need the following tools.
1. 15 mm socket to remove steering wheel
2. Torx 27 and Torx 30 "Allen wrenches" or sockets.
3. #2 Philips
4. Screw starter to grip the 3 screw that hold the top column cover on.
(Masking tape works too)
5. A bright flashlight.
6. A magnetic pick up tool to locate dropped screws
7. #1 slotted screw driver to help release electrical connectors