EDIT: For those of you that don't want to read the whole thing, the installation is about a 5 on a scale of 1 to 10. The ride IMHO turned out to be oh so slightly softer than the OEM comfort suspension. There is also very slightly more body roll. I am happy with it and no more fault messages. It is impossible to keep the XJR and the VDP guys happy with one package. If you road race your XJR, it is not for you. It is perfect for a luxury ride in your Vanden Plas. IMHO YMMV





Decided to start a new thread to document this new product. After giving up on my 04 Vanden Plas Air Suspension, I am installing the new conversion to couilovers from Arnott. Ordered them Wed and got them today, Friday. One of the bottom mounts on the rears was poked thru the bottom of the box. Needs another layer of cardboard under the bottom mount. They appear very well built and have a rubber dust guard on the shock. The instructions they sent have terrible photos and only had the odd numbered pages. Luckily I don't need it. Bill, you listening?

I will try to get started on them tomorrow. I will remove all of the components of the old system. I was promised that there would be no faults triggered. Although they don't say to, I will pull the fuses for the ASM (2). No more Air Suspension Faults for me.

 

I will tell it as I see it regarding my experience with Arnott during this conversion.

I just called Tech regarding the 4 top mounting nuts on each coilover. My question was do you leave them there and use the original nuts or do you take them off and use them as mounting nuts discarding the originals.

After the usual wait, I got a female who was no help. Granted it was 5:30 on Friday and apparently she was the only one left to answer the phone. No only was she not a tech-she was not a mechanic. I could not make her understand. I will use the nuts that came with them to mount them. I seem to remember someone else having the same question and eventually did what I plan. Stay tuned.

 

I'm excited to hear your feedback and results! Thanks for breaking new ground... Take lots of pictures.

 

+1 details please and how you would compare the ride on various surfaces. Thanks!

 

I will do a how to with lots of photos. I have driven the air ride for about 5 years so I do have a point of reference.

 

This is what a forum is all about! Good luck and I'm looking forward to the comparison posts....

 

Good luck in being our test pilot. We're all looking forward to hearing your comments on this.

 

MK 82 --- The nuts on your new coilovers are to be removed and used to mount the device in the shock tower. That's what I discovered when I installed, at first incorrectly, Arnott air shocks over a year ago. I presume they have not changed their practice since then.

 

It would be interesting to start with the front pair first and leave the rear air springs in place. But given the condition of your ASM, the rears wouldn't air up unless you do it manually.

To finish my thoughts on this one... and consider this brainstorming as opposed to recommendation: If you clip and insulate the CAN bus lines to ASM ( CR88-7 & CR88-8 ), your air suspension fault messages should disappear... just as if you unplugged the ASM, like did for a test earlier this week. However the rest of the controls will be in place. But maybe that isn't necessary. If you manually rig a switch to trigger the air suspension relay, and make any other mods to ensure just the rear air springs are inflated when the switch is active, you can essentially control the rear ride height. I recall a thread where someone purchased an XJR with a switch mounted in the back of the coin hopper just to the left of the steering column and throwing the switch lowered the car... In any case, just exploring ways to keep rear airsprings active with the front coil over modification.
Reason being that it might be nice to control the ride height that way.

Either way, you'll want to load the boot/trunk with about 350+ lbs and measure floor to wheel well at all four tires before and after ...
Bob

 

Today I got the fronts installed. Let me start with this disclaimer. There are many ways to skin a cat. The way I chose is not the only way but seemed the best to me. I just jacked up the front using the factory points as I avoid all four off unless I have to. I do not have a lift.

I also took it out for one last ride. Had to raise the right front manually. I would not describe the factory as soft. In fact It borders on the harsh side to me. A bit bouncy. Definitely not a limo ride. I also did a short slalom run and the car has virtually no body roll and felt damn near as good as my Corvette. That is my baseline.

DISCONNECT NEG BATT TERMINAL. AIR BAGS CAN STILL CONTAIN SOME AIR WITH LINE REMOVED. USE CAUTION!!

I NEVER GO UNDER A CAR WITHOUT AT LEAST TWO JACKS STANDS. I USED TWO JACKS AND AND TWO JACK STANDS. THE BODY YOU SQUISH WILL BE YOURS.

1. Locate and remove the Compressor Relay. Front underhood fuse box. Right front corner. You can keep it as a spare as it is the same as the other two you see.



2. Remove rear seat. The four attachment points are difficult to reach if you have big fingers.





3. Pull cords to release back seat. They are up under the back of the seat and require some fishing.


4. Pull insulation forward to expose ASM on the wall between trunk and seat back.





5. Unplug all four ASM plugs and tie out of way.







Front Shocks:

6. Raise both front wheels. Lift the body so they hang free. Those are pretty new rotors. They rust quickly.

7. Rmv Right Front Tire



8. Spray all nuts and bolts with PB Blaster or similar. Rmv Sway Arm & Linkage. Easier if you disconnect both sway bars at once but not mandatory. Takes 13mm wrench and 5mm allen to keep bolt from turning. Leave the right sway bar disconnected until the right side is finished.



9. Rmv Upper A arm nut and separate. 18mm and 5mm allen. Mine popped loose by itself. I put a small scissor jack under the bottom A frame for security. These air bags are not as dangerous as coil springs but they can still hurt you.





10. Remove lower shock mount. It is a T60. My Impact would not break it loose. My air pressure was down. I had to break out the big guns (2 FT 1/2 Dr breakover bar.) Notice the scissor jack for security. You have never lived until one of these springs has flown in your face.





11. Disconnect top of shock. Tie off air line and plug. 13mm nuts and 12mm air line. Let the air bleed off slowly.



12. Remove the Air Shock. I disconnected the brake line attachment to give me more slack in the lower A Frame. Not absolutely necessary but gives you a bit more room.












I also removed the Height Sensors. Be Careful of the clips. I broke one. Lube up the rubber grommets and they will slip off I am told. Mine were simply too hard after 8 years to slip off.







Tie off all lines.

Remove Air Shock. I used a short crow bar to pry down on the A frame. Be careful not to stretch the brake line. Turn the brake disc toward the line to give some slack. I disconnected the bracket at the frame as it was stretching the line more than I liked.



Installation is opposite. Fish the new spring in from the front and make sure it is in the four holes at the top. Also make sure you have removed the four nuts on the top of the shock. Put a nut on there to hold it in place while you wiggle the bottom mount in place. Make sure the captive nut on the lower mount is toward the front. I used loctite on any bolts that were not self locking (nyloc.)



Same for other side. Right took about 45 mins. Left about 30 mins. This is after I had gathered all the tools. Rears to follow.



UPPER SHOCK MOUNTS 21 FT/LB
LOWER SHOCK MOUNTS 98 FT/LB Use Loctite and Grunt!!

 

I have never had a single problem with the air suspension, but it will come some day. I really appreciate the foot work done here - very interested in your handling review after the swap. The price for the Arnott conversion kit is right.
Thanks!

 

Hey, the pix aren't coming thru... is anyone else having issues or is it my smart phone?

 

its your phone.
Ill add or subtract a couple things Eddie.
1. put both front wheels off the ground.
2. undo both sway bar links and take them off.
3. spray the rubber bushings with wd40 etc.. on the height sensors and pop 1 end off(much easier and faster)
4. no need to undo the brake line. simply turn the wheel so the caliper is closer to the line. youll have plenty of slack. Do this as you do each side.
5. If you remove the nut on the upper a arm ball joint and pop it off the hub carrier, you can use the hub carrier to pry the whole assembly down and take the shock out easily.
6. dont puts the links back on till done with both sides, and remember the height sensor links, lube them again to reinstall

 

I did.
Thought about that but it worked OK one at a time.

I sprayed just about everything with PB Blaster. I will add that. I didn't know the grommets came off.

It was stretching the line more than I like with the wheel turned. Just takes a second. But I am not on the clock.
Tried it both ways. Crow bar worked best for me.

The height sensors are not going back on mine.

Thanks for the input. I only smashed one finger.

 

without looking at the wiring diagrams. I seem to remember that the HID headlights with auto leveling need the height sensors.

 

Good thread, subscribed, adding to FAQ.

 

MK thank you for the detailed write up.

 

Well done Mk 82 !

 

I checked that tonight. They wiggle a bit when you start it up but seem to stay level.. I was assured that would not be a problem. We will see.

I also read that the auto level was disabled at some point. It was considered redundant with the auto level of the air suspension.

Besides, with the ASM disconnected they are useless. Can you say Ebay?

 

I read on one of the photos of the coil-overs: "Arnott Air Suspension Components". And I said to myself: Right, these are not air suspension components, as they are coil-overs.