Shift Lever Stuck in Park
#1
Shift Lever Stuck in Park
1. First, I did a search on "Stuck Shift levers" and tried some of the recommendations-nothing has worked as yet.
2. Read through the "Driver's Handbook".
3. No Engine Check Light or Codes.
I am parked on a level concrete driveway which I parked in 2 hours earlier, everything was fine then.
Any recommendations?
2. Read through the "Driver's Handbook".
3. No Engine Check Light or Codes.
I am parked on a level concrete driveway which I parked in 2 hours earlier, everything was fine then.
Any recommendations?
Last edited by reyesl; 12-01-2012 at 04:27 AM.
The following users liked this post:
geberhardt (09-10-2014)
#2
LOOK under the car where the linkage cable attachés to the transmission... you will find the two screws/bolts.
Sometime one will fall out
Hope this will help. I keep saying I'm going to get under mine and check this before it happens to me, have not done it yet. but i will now after seeing your post.
good luck
This post is from panels on 11-13-2010.
I was going to wait, but I see you had not got any other reply's.
Sometime one will fall out
Hope this will help. I keep saying I'm going to get under mine and check this before it happens to me, have not done it yet. but i will now after seeing your post.
good luck
This post is from panels on 11-13-2010.
I was going to wait, but I see you had not got any other reply's.
The following 2 users liked this post by vacmail:
geberhardt (09-10-2014),
giovanni.anfossy (02-11-2017)
#3
UPDATE: I was thinking of a different car. The following is now corrected.
Just a quick question.
With the engine running, put your foot on the brake.
Release the parking brake.
Now gently and slightly pull the shifter back to R.
Do you hear a locking pin being extracted?
Just a quick question.
With the engine running, put your foot on the brake.
Release the parking brake.
Now gently and slightly pull the shifter back to R.
Do you hear a locking pin being extracted?
Last edited by heima; 12-01-2012 at 01:59 AM.
#4
#5
LOOK under the car where the linkage cable attachés to the transmission... you will find the two screws/bolts.
Sometime one will fall out
Hope this will help. I keep saying I'm going to get under mine and check this before it happens to me, have not done it yet. but i will now after seeing your post.
good luck
This post is from panels on 11-13-2010.
I was going to wait, but I see you had not got any other reply's.
Sometime one will fall out
Hope this will help. I keep saying I'm going to get under mine and check this before it happens to me, have not done it yet. but i will now after seeing your post.
good luck
This post is from panels on 11-13-2010.
I was going to wait, but I see you had not got any other reply's.
Jacked-up the car and checked the mounting bolts, they were "TIGHT", I could not budge them.
Last edited by reyesl; 12-01-2012 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Update
#6
#7
I removed the "Selector Surround" and removed the 4 screws that hold the selector. The shop manual indicates that I have to remove the "Floor Console" in order to remove the Ash Tray. Any easier solutions?
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#8
You're testing my memory now ! As I recall, the shop technician showed me a release lever which was at the rear of the select mechanism. One pressed this to release. As far as I know, you don't have to take the whole console off. This release is designed to be reasonably straigtforward, albeit some small amount of dismantling is needed. FWIW its the same as the S-type, so maybe have a look in that forum.
#9
Thanks. I am hoping it is the same for your XJ as for my Stype.
There is an electric interlock that prevents you from shifting out of park without pressing the brake. This is a safety feature that most modern automatics have.
If your VDP is like my Stype, then there is a Gearshift Interlock solenoid and not-in-park switch at the J-gate assembly.
Also at the J-gate assembly is a module that receives a CAN data stream.
With the engine running and your foot on the brake, the CAN data stream tells the J-gate assembly that the brake is on and what gear the transmission is in.
When you gently and slightly pull the shifter toward R, the not-in-park switch is closed and sends a signal to the instrument cluster. Eventually, the CAN data stream carries a message to release the gearshift interlock solenoid.
So, where can problems occur?
1. CAN data stream is not getting to the J-gate assembly. If the P for park is illuminated, the data stream is being received and power and GND are present.
2. The switch at the brake pedal is not working. There are two switches, one works the brake lights the other cancels cruise control. Are your brake lights illuminating? You might have to get under the dash with a multimeter to check these.
3. The wiring from the brake switche to wherever is bad. The wire is GreenOrange.
4. The not-in-park switch is bad. Because you have disassembled the center console and have access to the J-gate assembly, you should be able to access and test the not-in-park switch. J-gate assembly connector: Pin 1 - 12VDC (greenorange) Pin 2 - GND (black) Pin 4 - Not-in-park switch output, GND when closed (yellow)
5. The wiring from the not-in-park switch is bad. See 4. It looks like you could safely short pin 2 and pin 4 of J-gate assembly connector (backprobe) as doing so would just bypass the not-in-park switch.
6. The gearshift interlock solenoid is bad. Similar to 4., you should have access to the solenoid. Check voltage across solenoid and resistance through solenoid.
7. The gear position switch inside the transmission is bad.
If it were me, I would start with 1. and progress through.
However, what Fraser is suggesting is a temporary work around.
NOTE: I just discovered something. With the key out of the ignition, moving the shifter to the left closes the not-in-park switch and a beeping is heard from the instrument cluster. This could be a substitute for steps 4. and 5.
There is an electric interlock that prevents you from shifting out of park without pressing the brake. This is a safety feature that most modern automatics have.
If your VDP is like my Stype, then there is a Gearshift Interlock solenoid and not-in-park switch at the J-gate assembly.
Also at the J-gate assembly is a module that receives a CAN data stream.
With the engine running and your foot on the brake, the CAN data stream tells the J-gate assembly that the brake is on and what gear the transmission is in.
When you gently and slightly pull the shifter toward R, the not-in-park switch is closed and sends a signal to the instrument cluster. Eventually, the CAN data stream carries a message to release the gearshift interlock solenoid.
So, where can problems occur?
1. CAN data stream is not getting to the J-gate assembly. If the P for park is illuminated, the data stream is being received and power and GND are present.
2. The switch at the brake pedal is not working. There are two switches, one works the brake lights the other cancels cruise control. Are your brake lights illuminating? You might have to get under the dash with a multimeter to check these.
3. The wiring from the brake switche to wherever is bad. The wire is GreenOrange.
4. The not-in-park switch is bad. Because you have disassembled the center console and have access to the J-gate assembly, you should be able to access and test the not-in-park switch. J-gate assembly connector: Pin 1 - 12VDC (greenorange) Pin 2 - GND (black) Pin 4 - Not-in-park switch output, GND when closed (yellow)
5. The wiring from the not-in-park switch is bad. See 4. It looks like you could safely short pin 2 and pin 4 of J-gate assembly connector (backprobe) as doing so would just bypass the not-in-park switch.
6. The gearshift interlock solenoid is bad. Similar to 4., you should have access to the solenoid. Check voltage across solenoid and resistance through solenoid.
7. The gear position switch inside the transmission is bad.
If it were me, I would start with 1. and progress through.
However, what Fraser is suggesting is a temporary work around.
NOTE: I just discovered something. With the key out of the ignition, moving the shifter to the left closes the not-in-park switch and a beeping is heard from the instrument cluster. This could be a substitute for steps 4. and 5.
Last edited by heima; 12-01-2012 at 07:03 PM.
#10
#12
Is the "P" lit?
This is a longshot but when you insert the key and turn the ignition to power the car's systems does the the "P" on the J gate light up red? It should illuminate red. If not, this would indicate an electrical issue.
A friend of mine (okay yours truly) spilled coffee across the J gate once and my shift lever was stuck in park for 12 hours. During that time the P didn't light. Only when it lit again could I then get the car out of park.
If anyone spills liquid in the J gate PM me and I'll share my experience. There's an electrical harness underneath and when wet it will turn your car's electrical system haywire. My dash lit up like a Christmas tree and every possible fault flashed including CATS fault etc. for about 12 hours until it started to dry. During that time the car was not drivable as it was stuck in Park.
Lesson to all - when you put a paper or styrofoam cup in the cup holder be very careful. In my case, I leaned on the center armrest to adjust myself and the pressure of my weight jolted the armrest forward which severed the styrofoam coffee cup in half, sending a flood of coffee across the J gate.
A friend of mine (okay yours truly) spilled coffee across the J gate once and my shift lever was stuck in park for 12 hours. During that time the P didn't light. Only when it lit again could I then get the car out of park.
If anyone spills liquid in the J gate PM me and I'll share my experience. There's an electrical harness underneath and when wet it will turn your car's electrical system haywire. My dash lit up like a Christmas tree and every possible fault flashed including CATS fault etc. for about 12 hours until it started to dry. During that time the car was not drivable as it was stuck in Park.
Lesson to all - when you put a paper or styrofoam cup in the cup holder be very careful. In my case, I leaned on the center armrest to adjust myself and the pressure of my weight jolted the armrest forward which severed the styrofoam coffee cup in half, sending a flood of coffee across the J gate.
The following users liked this post:
vacmail (12-02-2012)
#14
#15
#17
This is from the Shop manual:
Diagnosis and testing
Diagnostic Strategy
No Data Available
Last edited by reyesl; 12-02-2012 at 07:12 AM.
#18
So you have the beeping, this means the j-gate assembly is getting GND. Next question, is it getting 12 VDC? It will probably be different for your XJ, but the fuse on the s type for that 12 VDC is F15, a 5 amp fuse, in the primary junction fuse box. This fuse is also for the transmission control module and the generator.
This is where the wingnut is located. You should be able to turn it with a long skinny screwdriver.
This is where the wingnut is located. You should be able to turn it with a long skinny screwdriver.
Last edited by heima; 12-02-2012 at 01:43 PM.
#19
#20