Thanks again Thermo! Can you name the publisher? All my search results essentially center on what seem to be those fly-by-night operations selling absolute garbage. I'd pay the money for a decent one. My Pontiac G8 GXP factory set of 4 cost in that range, but was a very solid investment!

 

Diggity, let me do some looking and see what I can find.

 

Your efforts are sincerely appreciated! Thank you!

 

Is this the right parts for my 2012 XJL NA? Sounds way to cheap... Please chime in and thanks edobernig for the right up.


Full Kit Drilled Slotted Brake Rotors and Ceramic Pads 2010-2014 Jaguar XF,XJ,XK

 

NOrcalJag, those seem to be the correct parts for your Jag. The other option is what is on the supercharged 5.0L vehicles which have larger diameter rotors.

The price of aftermarket rotors and pads has dropped recently. Part of it is that some people have given the cross drilled/slotted rotors a bad rap. So, there are a lot of people that refuse to buy them. Well, that means in order to sell them, you either have to wait a long time or drop the price to make people want to buy them.

While I have not bought them for my XJ (yet), I had them on my X-Type. They stopped the car great and then only "issue" I had with them is it seemed like the first few stops in the morning, you would get a little whir out of the brakes. You had to be listening for it, but it was there. I had them on the car for almost 90K miles and only had to replace the pads. Rotors lasted the whole time. When I would get on the brakes hard, I was fearful of putting the front bump into the road because the car slowed that fast. If it was on the seat, it wasn't after a hard braking.

Read my comments about resetting your rear brakes if you install these. Prevents you from either having to buy the special computer or having to kill power to the car and then recalibrating the e-brake mechanism.

 

Hey thanks for the reply..Are they as good or better than OEM? Im not sure if I even need rotors yet. I just got the Brake pads are worn message. Im not sure if its the front or back..lol I figured just get both back and front just incase plus ill use them eventually. How many miles can you safely drive with that message on? i need to drive it until i get parts in.

Once again thanks..

 

NorcalJag, how long is kinda relative to how hard you are on the brakes. But, you probably have another 2-3,000 miles easy.

With that being said, the longer you drive with that message on, the more likely that you are going to end up replacing that sensor. How the sensor work is that it has an exposed wire that sits about 1/8" from the steel plate of the brake pad itself. So, as the pad is nearing the end of its life, the sensor will come in contact with the rotor and this allows the wire in the sensor to ground itself via the rotor which then lights the light on the dash. You continue to drive it, not only are you wearing down the brake pad, but you are wearing down this sensor too and it is possible for you to essentially burn through the wire in the sensor. So, how long you have is somewhat relative to how many parts do you plan on replacing. From the sounds of things, plan on getting atleast 1 front sensor and 1 rear sensor just in case.

 

 

 

c g, I cannot speak for the XJ as I have not had a need to replace the rotors, but when I do, I plan on going with aftermarket rotors and pads. When I had my X-Type, I went with some cross-drilled/slotted rotors and I would say that the braking was as good if not slightly better than the factory. I know when I got on the brakes hard with the X-Type with the aftermarket stuff, the front end would drop significantly, to the point that I was almost afraid of grinding the front bumper into the road. if it was on the seat, it wasn't after a hard braking. I see no issue with aftermarket stuff as long as you get quality parts. the other "good thing" to do is when you put on the new rotors, make sure to torque the wheels down with the wheel in the air. The reason behind this is what normally warps a rotor isn't so much that it got hit with cold water when the rotor was hot, but more with stresses that are built up in the wheel between the rim and the hub. If you have the rim unevenly tightened to the hub, the rotor will see stresses in some area and none in another area. This will cause the rotor to warp just a little bit. Once it starts warping, then you have hot and cold areas being formed which will cause the rotor to continue to warp. That even torquing of the wheel ensures the stress is even across the whole rotor. This will minimize the chances of warping a rotor.