I acquired 2004 XJ8 recently that I new had brake problems but I didn't know how bad. They had let it go so long that the right rear caliper piston had extended so far that it came out and got turned sideways against the rotor. I got it home and ordered the parts needed. I changed the rear calipers first, the right rear the left. I filled the master cylinder and left the bleeders open over night but no fluid made it out. Then I replaced the front rotors and pads. I shut the left rear bleeder and left the right open. I placed my son at the right rear caliper and as I pried the LF caliper open to remove it forced fluid out the rear bleeder, my son closed it. Then to the other side, same procedure. After I got everything changed I went to bleeding the only way I knew how which was having my son pump the brakes and hold then I would open the bleeder. I did this until I was satisfied there was no air in the lines. refilled the master cylinder and took it out for a ride. it stops but the pedal is real soft and it will go to the floor. It does have the parking brake integrated into the caliper. IF anybody has any step by steps to a cure I would be very grateful.


Also I started it a couple times while it was on the jackstands and they were higher in front end but it seems as though the air ride system has inflated the fronts and they are staying up now. It wasn't like this when I brought it home, any idea how to get it back to ride height?

 

Yep, you've still got air in the system. Here is the specific bleed procedure. Follow it including the bleeding calipers with integral park brake procedure.

Here's a very well written step by step.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ice-how-61323/

 

Hi wardf,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums and congratulations on your new Jag!

The rear brakes with integral park brake calipers require additional steps when bleeding. I'm attaching the procedure from the Workshop Manual, which you can download from this forum in six sections at the links below:

X350 Workshop Manual Table of Contents
X350 Workshop Manual General Information
X350 Workshop Manual Chassis
X350 Workshop Manual Powertrain
X350 Workshop Manual Electrical
X350 Workshop Manual Body & Paint

It is never advised to leave the bleed screws open without the brake pedal depressed, as this can allow air and moisture into system. When bleeding the brakes, begin at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder (rear right), and work your way gradually closer (rear left, front right, front left). Also, the fluid level in the master cylinder must never be allowed to get too low or it will inhale air into the system and possibly require bench bleeding.

Regarding your front suspension, it is possible the car has entered Jacking Mode. Typically you just need to drive the car above a few miles per hour for the Air Suspension Control Module to restore the proper ride height. This is explained in the Air Suspension & ECATS System section of the Dealer Training Manual, which you can download at this link:

Air Suspension & ECATS Section of Dealer Training Manual

I recently created a summary of the information from the manual and information shared by other forum members at this link:

Air Suspension & ECATS System Summary: Components & Operation

There are lots of other references you can download free from this forum and jagrepair.com, a very helpful website maintained by our member Gus. For example, here's a link to the '04 XJ Electrical Guide which contains all the wiring schematics and component locations:

2004 XJ Electrical Guide

Cheers,

Don

 

WOW! Such thorough info so quick. I really appreciate it. I just woke up, night worker, have to go to kids B-Day and when I get home I'll get a chance to read more in depth and get into action. Thank you again.

 

OK, I bled the calipers according to the manual then bled the system. still soft pedal. Went back and bled the calipers again just to make sure. I bought some clear tubing from Lowes so I can see the fluid coming out of the bleeder, no air. Bled the system again, no air. Still have a soft pedal. I read through a lot of the manuals(brake related) and I was looking at the Hydraulic Control Unit. Could there be air trapped somewhere in there, the way the piston came out of the caliper that line had the opportunity to empty. Even if that was the case how would you bleed it? I'm totally at a loss now at getting a pedal. I'll worry about the parking brake reset when I have brakes.

 

Hello wardf ,

The advise given to you is correct in regards to bleeding the rear calipers , however given that the rear piston had actually come out , the fluid in that line and the master cylinder chamber would have drained completely . ( that's why no fluid leaked out over night via the bleeder )

Once the oil in the Master Cylinder empties the chamber fills with air

That air can not be bled out at the calipers

You need to bleed the Master Cylinder first

Then you may bleed the brakes as Don B and Sean W have suggested .

If your not sure how to bleed the M C I am happy to run you and your son through the process .

As for the " Hydraulic Control Unit " ( A B S Module ) don't touch it at this stage .

Cheers,

 

mastersid, yes please, do give me the process for bleeding the M C. I have good brakes as far as parts and I'm ready to drive this car, but can't in this condition. Thank you again to this site for the help.

 

Hello again ,

Ok , but be aware ( and I'm sure you are ) that brake fluid is is the best paint stripper on the market .

1 loose both brake pipes at the M C - two full turns each

2 have some one push the brake pedal all the way to floor - not hard or fast , just a slow constant pressure till it stops and hold it there

3 when the pedal is all the way down tighten both the M C brake pipes back up

4 release the brake pedal slowly back to the top , wait a few seconds

5 repeat the process 4 to 5 times .

You are not required to pump the brake pedal

You will note while your doing this 2 things are happening

1 the fluid level in he reservoir will drop each time you RELEASE the pedal

2 the fluid pressure will INCREASE at the M C pipe outlets each time you loosen them

3 the brake pedal should start to feel normal now as the air has been replace with oil

You can now bleed at the calipers as per normal If your happy with the pedal feel .

Cheers

 

When I changed my rt rear caliper I had the same issue. I have been bleeding brakes for 35 years, but couldn't get all the air out of this Jag. I tried everything. Went thru 2 LT of fluid with using a vac pump. Called my friend at the dealer. He said I still had air in the line, and one of the only sure fire ways to bleed it all out of that system is a pressure bleed. I dont know if he disabled the abs pump, in 10 minutes it was done. Cost me about $30.00, and was well worth it.
Old SER III land rover slave/clutches were the same. The piston throw was not long enough to push the air over a high bend in the line. But a Vac bleeder could pull it thru.
The vac bleeder cannot pull enough air thru fast enough to bleed some of the lines on a SV8, as 5" extra in that right rear line can make it very hard to bleed.

 

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I have enough vehicles that a 100.00 pressure bleeder was justified. It screws on the reservoir and keeps it full.
You got open the passenger rear bleeder and let it bleed until no bubbles. Then do the other three wheels.
May take a liter to get the first wheel. Another liter should do the other three. You do have to come up for air to make sure the pressure tank does not run out. Mine holds over a liter.
No pumping the pedal, one person operation.

 

OK, I bled the master cylinder with no change. I really do appreciate the advice given and am using it to try to accomplish this job. I'm checking into the pressure bleeder and if I could pay some one $30 at this time I would feel it the best $30 ever spent.


I was talking to a guy at work who just had a brake problem on his 08 Ford Fusion that sounds similar. Here is what happened to him and tell me what you think. He hit his bakes on a slick spot and his ABS kicked in and after he had a very soft pedal. His brakes were worn so he changes them, still soft pedal. Got on line and found many people had this happen and that it was a valve in the ABS allowing the fluid to bypass the closed off normal high pressure. I have this light on and it has been on since I got the car and was wondering if it had anything to do with it. It's the light with the car that is sliding, is this an ABS light or traction failure light?


I do most of my own service so maybe a pressure bleeder wouldn't be a bad investment. Panelhead, what brand do have/or recommend?


Thank you all again, please don't give up on me I want to get this done, and maybe this will help someone else(but hopefully no one else lets their brakes get this bad).

 

Ordered from ECS Tuning. And it was 50.00 for bleeder and 9 for the catch jar.
They recommend flushing the system and this is perfect. Sure beats pumping the pedal or a vacuum tool.

 

Hi Panelhead,

So does the standard reservoir replacement cap that came with your ECS Tuning bleeder fits the X350, or did you need to order an additional cap?

Cheers,

Don

 

OK, I ordered the power bleeder, that will be a few days until arrival. What do you think the ABS idea.

 

The cap fit every car we have.

 

wardf , in regards to the ABS unit

That faulty valve (Solenoid) that you mentioned can cause a low brake pedal

Although not very common , it can happen

More likely though is if you activate the ABS when the MC chamber is empty , it will draw air into the ABS pump ( there is no separate reservoir for the ABS unit )

If there is no change after pressure bleeding I would look there next

That light on the dash is for the Traction Control

Cheers ,

 

Did you get the version with the "universal" cap or the one that fits BMW, Mercedes Benz, etc.?

 

I ordered the European version and the accessary top that states it fits Jaguar. If I don't need the extra top I guess I can try and return it. The guy I talked to said none of their kits had the correct top which is 1.75" Girling top. Supposed to be here tomorrow, then I'll know.

 

Ordered the only one they stock. Fits Audi, BMW, MD, and my Jaguar.

 

Well, they stock at least two:

Universal Power Bleeder

European Power Bleeder


The reason I'm so interested is that I have the similar unit from Bavarian Autosports, with both the stock German cap plus an additional "universal" cap similar to the one on the universal ECS Tuning bleeder. The problem with mine is that the German cap is too tall and won't thread down tight enough to seal on the reservoir of our '04 XJR. The problem with the universal cap is that it is too large for the opening in the cowl, and I've been too lazy to remove the cowl just to bleed the brakes.

I may try ordering one of the ECS Tuning BMW caps to see if it will fit.

Thanks!

Don