Well I gigured I'd start a thread that I will build upon as I modify my 2004 XJR. Today I did three pulls on a Mustang Awd 800 3000hp Chassis Dyno to see what numbers I would get. I'm not to concerned with max power just the difference the mods I do change power. That being said I did three pulls today with the only mod being that I removed the flap within the airbox. Repeatability is what I was looking for and didnt want that lil flappy thing to cause any issues. I did all pulls in third gear as to not have a downshift issue as well. I wasnt sure where to rev it to so teh first pull was done to 6,000 RPM. The Second to 6,200 and lastly the third to...Well 155mph lol In other words dynoing the car in third has the drawback of hitting 150mph before 6,500 causing basically shutting the car down...My bad. It looked as though it may of made a little bit more power if I had been able to rev a bit higher but unsure (perhaps someone can chime in) Anyway Im not concerned with that. Just that I repeat the same procedure with my first round of mods. Also I had the bonnet/hood up during testing and I just read maybe it should have been close. Too late now!

The good news. All three pulls were within 1 rwhp on each other and within two ft lbs. Thats pretty dam consistant if you ask me. So the results....First pull 313 rwhp, second 312 rwhp (not much cool down time), then 314 rwhp (with an hour cool down after second pull). I will post the dyno sheet when I get it scanned. I had him print out the first run as the higher power run ran into teh speed limiter and was all silly loooking at the end. All curves for both torque and hp looked the same for all three runs...

So

Max RWHP 313 @ 5990 rpm
Max RWT 289 @ 4628 rpm

Next step is my new custom mandrel bent exhaust. It will consist of 2.5" SS with Dynomax Ultra Flow SS Rear mufflers, a Dynomax ultra x resonator and 4" rear tips/finishers. I havent decieded on weather or not I will install cats at this time but if I do they will likely be 100 cel metallic core ones. Ive already gotten the mufflers & tips.

After the exhaust is done and the car redynoed I plan on installing an 80mm intake pipe (thanks to John on the forum) mounted to a modified MINA Gallery intake, a bored TB and a 6% pulley. I'm also attempting to work out a way to get an upgraded larger MAF from Pro M at this time. They are within driving distace of me and I really want a MAF that is a bit larger than my inlet tube. Ill probably also put in the better IC pump and may upgrade the heat exchanger at the same time. If not no biggie for the dyno at least

ANYWAY this is where I'm at and likely done till somebody finishes up a twin screw kit for the 2004 xjr :O). I just cant see the cost of a questionable tune worth it allthough Id LOVE to remove that pesky speed limiter and the torque management. I have no issues building a stout transmission (parts are available) and a new converter if they could indeed remove it..... And after all that the rear differential..That is if Im happy with all these results...Let the games begin!

 

I have the 100 cspi cats fitted

The OEM ones are dual cats each side. 400 cspi between the upstream and downstream o2 sensors and 600 cspi post the down stream o2 sensor

If you go with 100 cspi fit mincats on the downstream sensors as I didn and you wont have any issues with codes. If you go with 200cspi you may get away without them

Get the minicats from big daddy's garage
O2 Simulator Mini Cat Cel Fix best oxygen sensor simulator made.

I posted a thread on the 100 cel cat fittment

Also fit the 101 pump on the S/C cooling

PS when doing the dyno rinds did you have the bonnet down?
You get lower HP with it up

Cheers
34by151

 

Bonnet was up. I read about that after. So Im going to do all runs with bonnet up and perhaps a final run after all is done with it down to see if there is a difference. Ive also seen those mini cats. I actually have used just antifoul spark plug spacers in the past to remove cel light. Maybe ill give these a try

 

I cant comment on running a spacer, It may work then again it may not

What I can tell you is I run the 100 cspi cats with minicats and it works fine. Also other have used them with a cat delete and that works fine as well.

If it does work you will be very close to generating a MIL code

The Downstream will be reading higher than normal levels (P0420 & P0430, P1313 & P1314)

P0420 & P0430 are just annoying but P1313 & P1314 give you a restricted performance (Maximum engine speed
reduced). Its one of the one you would get with a bad plug or coil

You will most likely get this in open loop when you boot the throttle.

Fitting the mincats grantees this never happens even with a bad

On a side note in closed loop the system runs off the upstream o2 driving the fuel trims. The cats have no effect on this
The Downstram does 2 things, checking the emission and generating the codes above but it also is a fine adjustment on the fuel trims

Think of this way the upstream is the course adjust and the downstream is the fine adjust. Both together prroduce the short term trim

So fitting the minicat eliminates the ECU adjusting the trims adjusting for emissions as it will just drive from the upstream sensor as the downstream will always see near nil emissions.
Without the mincat the downstream will allways see higher than normal emmisions. So the slights issue in the coils, plugs, vac leak will produce a code.

Check out the differences in Cambo's and my XJR in the Snowy Mountains 1000 (standing start 1km runway sprint) this year.

We both have almost the same mods, and ran the same fuel and tyre compounds.

The differences were

Cambo had the pulley upgrade, quafe lsd, thermostat mod, and changed back exhaust box but not the cats

I had the cats but not the pulley and lsd. vac leak. This was pushing my LTFT up to around 20%.

If I get time mine will have the LSD for this years runs but I wont be fitting the Pulley or changing the back half of the exhaust. This is not because it wont help but because I will need to pass an inspection.
Im moving states so I need to get the car over a pit inspection. They don't check emissions but do test noise levels. So Ill do it after the inspection, unless I move before the race!!!

BTW we were both running the fan mod and bigger SC cooling pump which helped a lot.

Bottom line (in a real world test) was the cats clawed back a lot of the advantages of the LSD and pulley. The differences should have been more and the cats account for that.
I will be interesting to compare this year as the difference will be just the cats and pulley. Ill be fitting the same semi race tires for the day as well and keep these just for track days. Other mods we are woking on will be applied to both

Cheers
34by151

 

I guess I should just get the mini cat as you have experience with them. Its not like they are super expensive.

Now I read up on the fan mod. Has anyone tried a larger heat exchanger? Or a pusher fan on the factory heat exchanger?

For example I have a 2.2 autorotor setup with laminova IC's on one of my V6's. An increase in my heat exchanger size made a huge difference in the spee din which my ACTs would rise and fall. I also had a spal pusher fan on it which I would use at low speeds. The fan along with the pump could also cycle while the engine was off. In addition to all that I had a secondary system tied into a mini cooler that I would fill with ice water. We would be able to reach below ambient temperatures with that setup. Of course that was just for track use only. I certainly wouldnt do that do my xjr....But I'm real curious how far people have gone in this regard.

With this car its all about real everyday performance for me. I dont mind upgrading the heat exchanger, pump to maintain more consistant ACT's. The actual intercoolers will be a limiting factor in the end. Speaking of which I havent seen anyone whos upgraded them. My Buddy did a bit of work on his CL600 and they have a pretty nifty IC upgrade for $$$$$$. Of course they are twin turbos and higher boost levels but the Eatons are notorious for heating up the air especially when raising the boost:O)

Anyway I wont have much to say till I actually do teh exhaust and redyno however Im open for any and all suggestions. No reason to repeat whats been done or proven..Unless of course I want to try somethign different:O)

Thanks!

Damon

 

Ok so if you read through the treads you will find I have done a lot of work in the IC. Specifically the heat soak issues and the temps on the exchanger.

The key is lower water temps in the circuit

i have tried a Spal 10in pusher fan and it snot that effective.
To get one in you need to cut some of the plastic away under the bumper. Not on the bumper but the plastic below it where the x brace is for the upper radiator support. You also need to modify the x brace on the radiator support.

Increasing the IC radiator is not an option as is fitting an extra core. All you end up doing is making the system less efficient. I wont go over that again but I agree with the the stuff AVOS has posted on that.

Getting back to the fans. It was far more effective to run the existing fan flat out than to run an aux fan. Also the axis fan is more restrictive in the airflow.

The issue with extra water is where. You could put it in the boot but you need a lot of restrictive pipes and a booster pump. The other options are to make a new washer tank that has most of the volume for IC coolant and far less for washer. The other 2 options are in the space between the under tray and radiator. That will give you about 8L extra but its a complex tank. The final and most viable (but questionable legality) is to fill the alloy bumper. It just needs to plates welded in a pair of take off tubes.

Here is the interesting thing I found from the OBD logs taken over the 1km runway sprints. When running the fan I can get the coolant down to ambient on the start line and I had only 1-2 deg rise over the 1km run.

A bigger issue the heat soak. what has been most effective is the ceramic coating in the intake tube. You can read my posts on that as it was documented with temps. Im convinced, but have not done as yet, ceramic coating the coolers in intake manifold will have the same gains. Also doing the exhaust manifold will do the same.
I will be doing these but not until I have them off the car for another reason. IE a repair

Once last thing that has made a big difference in IC (and IAT) is to fit a spay bar on the IC radiator. I did this by putting abr with 4 nozzles on mounted to the x brace on the radiator support. I feed the system using the headlamp washer pump. IE the headlamp washer is no longer connected. Now I must say here as well that my pump burned out. Not sure if it was from the change or just time to go. I only intended to use it a test anyway and to use an extra pump for the real unit. So for now it not working.

So where does that leave us

Twin screw defiantly but not on my radar for now

Water/Meth, yes but when it fails, and it will, you take out your engine, so its not for me

Tuning the air/fuel, yes, and this is where im concentrating my time. Modifying the MAP is not the solution it needs to be a combination of the MAP and wide band o2.

Finally let me say my XJR is a daily ride so that's why some mods are off the table

Cheers
34by151

 

Well I was going to do the exhaust first but then the inlet from Caldoofy came in. Then I decieded to buy another Jag....So anyways here is what I did.(holding off on the exhaust till I get it redynoed)

I installed the Caldoofy stage 1 intake tube along with the Mina Gallery air intake kit. I had modified the Mina Gallery kit as well by adding the factory cool air intake. For that I used a chrome 3.5" Flange I had laying around. I punched a hole in the mina gallery air divider plate and then picked up a 3.25" 45 degree silicone bend to connect the flang to the factory cold air scopp. UNFORTUNATELY....The silicone elbow was a tad bit to short so I will need to see if I can get a longer one or add some tubing in there. Regardless it came out pretty neat. I also reconnected the WOT flap solenoid from the factory airbox and tied it out of sight out of mind. Just in case the computer had an issue with it not being there.

My Impressions? Well driving around normally its a wee bit louder. Stock you barely hear anything. When you get on it..........OH BOY....I mean OH BOY IS IT LOUD. And it definitely feels much peppier. Ive got about 200 miles or so on it so im sure the computer has learned whats up and no CEL. For the exhaust I settled on all dynomax ultraflow stuff which I believe I mentioned before. Two rear mufflers and an X type resonator. Also upgraded to some 4 " tips. All stainless. I did deciede to throw some cats in there (100 cell) and got some 02 spacers to compensate. So my next updat ewill be dyno for this intake for and then exhaust and re-dyno. If I can get my hands on a factory TB Ill bore that , add a 6% pulley and see how that goes as well. My Plee for a MAF seems to be falling on deaf ears... Anyway here are some photos.

 

So I got around to connecting the cool air duct to my MINA open element intake. I couldnt get a silicone coupler that would work and finally used a reinforced peice of flexible duct used for air intake applications. Came out well

I will be redynoing when I get a chance. I fully understand that the general consensus is that it will suck in hot air and loose performance. My Experience with many other roots and twin screw powered vehicles that the restriction of the factory air box is far worse than any hot air the open element filter will suck in. What I am unsure of is if the ACT sensor made as part of the MAF uses its reading for any timing reduction. If so I can work around it. Im more concerned with numbers after the IC. Anyway just a quick update. Ill get a photo an dpost up as soon as I can:O)

Damon

 

One of my cars with two different combos. Both cars with open element air filters. A high flow airbox used with the 1.7 twin screw severly hampened performance. With the open element filter the car was producing a bit over 450 to the rear wheels on 93 octane. That had an air to air IC. When I went turbo of course I also used an open element air filter. Some run no air filter at al...CRAZY. That car makes close to 900rwhp now and only limited by keeping boost down to keep motor together. It however now runs on e85 now and is using a MegaSquirt III as oppossed to the the other combo which ran the factory EEC with a Moates Quarterhorse. So allthough I understand that hot air is bad air, restricted air is bad as well, especially on a roots blower which is basically a big air mover. BTW my 1.7 twin screw had an 85 85mm TB. There are guys running 95's and had an increase of HP just from the TB upgrade and larger intake pipe. Needless to say our Jags are very restricted in SO many ways....Sad.Anywya if it seems I am losing performance from injecting hot air Ill make something up...And or fool the computer if its doing funning things to my timing. As mentioned before my concern is not air temp in at the MAF but air temp after the IC

 

I am using 200 cell cats and am having code lights

 

The minicat 02 extenders should get rid of that. I have used regular antifoul tips to take my secondary 02 out of the air stream on a few of my cars and its gotten rid of the CEL every time. Since buying my XKR I have put modifications on this car on hold. Still need to redyno after there intake mods however. I can honestly say the car feel much more alive since the intake mods.

 

I thought about the mini-cat extenders and then when I figured where they are

I didn't want to do the work wish I had known this was going to happen when I built the system would have thrown them in immediately at the same time

I spoke to Lachlan at chiptorque up here on the Gold Coast he said he could remap the engine and tune it so they don't come on again so

I am dropping it of Wednesday morning to get sorted just the intake and exhaust mods have made the car come alive now just a remap to suit all the mods and it will be done

 

I would put an extender in there anyway for the 02. All they do is reduce flow over the sensor tricking the ecu into thinking they are functioning properly. What kind of remapping does your tuner do? Im all the way in NYC and Eurotech really was of no help. Im really interested in getting rid of that 155mph limiter

 

One working solution: Arden Zusatzsteuergerät zur V-Max Aufhebung

 

The limiter isn't really there anyhow, put the j-gate in 5th instead of D, and in Sport mode = no more limiter.

 

I Spoke to Lachlan he is the main guy at chiptorque and is pretty knowledgeable guy he knows me through some of my other cars

He knows I am a Jag nut he helped with my XJR6 he also tuned my 99 Lincoln Navigator with 550HP at all wheels it had a pro-charger fitted with huge air to air
inter-cooler lowered 6 inches custom grille and tail lights and one of Body kit and converted to Right hand drive it was the only one like it in Australia had to sell it in 08 because of the GFC

As for the speed limiter my little piece of road where I test my cars is being widened and lots of roadwork's so I figure once its finished the powers that be IE Campbell Newman and his cronies will get a speed camera on it that will be the end of high speed road-test for me then
only Got 2 points left (LOL)

As soon as its over at his shop I will post what's going on with it

 

Well unfortunately the 5th gear holdout doesn't help me on the dyno where my car downshifts when in 4th and hits the limiter in 3rd

 

and the navigator looks great!

 

Why are you trying to max it out on the dyno?

In any case, if you redline it in 4th you will only just reach 155mph.

We usually dyno the XJR in 3rd, it doesn't really matter if you use 3rd or 4th, just do it the same each time in order to gauge the increase, the ultimate number is less important.

 

I wasnt tryimng to max out speed on the dyno. I hit the speed limited in third gear at around 6000 rpm. In 4th gear it would downshift. Therefore It be nice to be able to get teh revs a bit past 6000 as there may have been a bit more there. Regardless Im having xkr issues which is holding me back on this project. Still need some after dyno of my intake mods which will be done in the same manner