3M headlight restoration recommendations
#1
03-25-2017, 01:49 PM
3M headlight restoration recommendations
Like the thread title says, I'm looking for recommendations from those of you who've used the 3M kits.
There appears to be more than one. I'm leaning toward kit 39008. I want the drill attachment and pad for some trim work, so I know I don't want the hand held only.
Having said that, there seems to be other kits available.
Will 39008 meet my needs or should I look at something different?
There appears to be more than one. I'm leaning toward kit 39008. I want the drill attachment and pad for some trim work, so I know I don't want the hand held only.
Having said that, there seems to be other kits available.
Will 39008 meet my needs or should I look at something different?
#2
03-25-2017, 08:26 PM
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Hi Sean,
I think that's the kit I've used successfully on our '04 X350 and a few other vehicles. Works great, though on a Chrysler van the plastic yellowed again in a couple of years so I wound up buying new lenses anyway. But the X350 is holding up great.
A few tips I learned along on the way:
1. If you can remove the headlamp assembly and clamp it to a workbench or such, the polishing will go faster and you can more easily polish the outer radii of each lens without worrying about touching the painted bodywork with the sanding pad.
2. If you can't or don't want to remove the headlamps, apply two layers of good masking tape to all the surrounding painted surfaces, including the horizontal top of the bumper cover, where you may accidentally drop the drill - I did and was really happy I had masked the bumper cover.
3. The kit I used started with 500 grit sanding discs. The more time you spend with that grit working through all of the haze, the faster the next grits will go and the better the results will be. It can be difficult to tell if the haze is gone looking through your sanding scratches. A small bright flashlight aimed into the lamp reflector can help you see where the haze remains.
If you don't sand through all the haze with 500, it will be difficult to remove what remains with the next grit (1000 or 1500?). If you get all the haze with 500, the next sanding steps go really quickly and the polishing is a breeze.
4. In their online FAQ, 3M says that for heavily-hazed lenses, you can start the process with 320 grit (which is not supplied with the kit, but I assume you could use sandpaper sheets wrapped around a rubber pencil eraser or other flexible "sanding block").
Cheers!
Don
I think that's the kit I've used successfully on our '04 X350 and a few other vehicles. Works great, though on a Chrysler van the plastic yellowed again in a couple of years so I wound up buying new lenses anyway. But the X350 is holding up great.
A few tips I learned along on the way:
1. If you can remove the headlamp assembly and clamp it to a workbench or such, the polishing will go faster and you can more easily polish the outer radii of each lens without worrying about touching the painted bodywork with the sanding pad.
2. If you can't or don't want to remove the headlamps, apply two layers of good masking tape to all the surrounding painted surfaces, including the horizontal top of the bumper cover, where you may accidentally drop the drill - I did and was really happy I had masked the bumper cover.
3. The kit I used started with 500 grit sanding discs. The more time you spend with that grit working through all of the haze, the faster the next grits will go and the better the results will be. It can be difficult to tell if the haze is gone looking through your sanding scratches. A small bright flashlight aimed into the lamp reflector can help you see where the haze remains.
If you don't sand through all the haze with 500, it will be difficult to remove what remains with the next grit (1000 or 1500?). If you get all the haze with 500, the next sanding steps go really quickly and the polishing is a breeze.
4. In their online FAQ, 3M says that for heavily-hazed lenses, you can start the process with 320 grit (which is not supplied with the kit, but I assume you could use sandpaper sheets wrapped around a rubber pencil eraser or other flexible "sanding block").
Cheers!
Don
The following 2 users liked this post by Don B:
Sean W (03-26-2017),
Swim with the fish (03-26-2017)
#3
03-25-2017, 09:13 PM
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#4
03-26-2017, 10:31 AM
Hi Sean,
I think that's the kit I've used successfully on our '04 X350 and a few other vehicles. Works great, though on a Chrysler van the plastic yellowed again in a couple of years so I wound up buying new lenses anyway. But the X350 is holding up great.
A few tips I learned along on the way:
1. If you can remove the headlamp assembly and clamp it to a workbench or such, the polishing will go faster and you can more easily polish the outer radii of each lens without worrying about touching the painted bodywork with the sanding pad.
2. If you can't or don't want to remove the headlamps, apply two layers of good masking tape to all the surrounding painted surfaces, including the horizontal top of the bumper cover, where you may accidentally drop the drill - I did and was really happy I had masked the bumper cover.
3. The kit I used started with 500 grit sanding discs. The more time you spend with that grit working through all of the haze, the faster the next grits will go and the better the results will be. It can be difficult to tell if the haze is gone looking through your sanding scratches. A small bright flashlight aimed into the lamp reflector can help you see where the haze remains.
If you don't sand through all the haze with 500, it will be difficult to remove what remains with the next grit (1000 or 1500?). If you get all the haze with 500, the next sanding steps go really quickly and the polishing is a breeze.
4. In their online FAQ, 3M says that for heavily-hazed lenses, you can start the process with 320 grit (which is not supplied with the kit, but I assume you could use sandpaper sheets wrapped around a rubber pencil eraser or other flexible "sanding block").
Cheers!
Don
I think that's the kit I've used successfully on our '04 X350 and a few other vehicles. Works great, though on a Chrysler van the plastic yellowed again in a couple of years so I wound up buying new lenses anyway. But the X350 is holding up great.
A few tips I learned along on the way:
1. If you can remove the headlamp assembly and clamp it to a workbench or such, the polishing will go faster and you can more easily polish the outer radii of each lens without worrying about touching the painted bodywork with the sanding pad.
2. If you can't or don't want to remove the headlamps, apply two layers of good masking tape to all the surrounding painted surfaces, including the horizontal top of the bumper cover, where you may accidentally drop the drill - I did and was really happy I had masked the bumper cover.
3. The kit I used started with 500 grit sanding discs. The more time you spend with that grit working through all of the haze, the faster the next grits will go and the better the results will be. It can be difficult to tell if the haze is gone looking through your sanding scratches. A small bright flashlight aimed into the lamp reflector can help you see where the haze remains.
If you don't sand through all the haze with 500, it will be difficult to remove what remains with the next grit (1000 or 1500?). If you get all the haze with 500, the next sanding steps go really quickly and the polishing is a breeze.
4. In their online FAQ, 3M says that for heavily-hazed lenses, you can start the process with 320 grit (which is not supplied with the kit, but I assume you could use sandpaper sheets wrapped around a rubber pencil eraser or other flexible "sanding block").
Cheers!
Don
They aren't terribly hazed really, mostly around the edges. It's as though they were done once before and the PO or shop got nervous as they neared the paint finish.
I'll follow you tips. Appreciate it.
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Don B (03-26-2017)
#5
03-26-2017, 10:32 AM
#6
03-26-2017, 03:49 PM
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If you don't like donating money to large corporations (like me).
just buy 2 or three sheets of wet and dry emery paper.
I think I used something like 400,1200, and 2000 grit.
I was pleased with the result and I even did a partial
removal.
A couple of my lenses were degrading around the top edges
and I was able to polish just these areas without having to do
the whole lens. I didn't bother masking.
Finished off with Turtle Wax (remember that?)
just buy 2 or three sheets of wet and dry emery paper.
I think I used something like 400,1200, and 2000 grit.
I was pleased with the result and I even did a partial
removal.
A couple of my lenses were degrading around the top edges
and I was able to polish just these areas without having to do
the whole lens. I didn't bother masking.
Finished off with Turtle Wax (remember that?)
Last edited by meirion1; 03-26-2017 at 03:52 PM.
#7
03-26-2017, 06:09 PM
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
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Well, for what it's worth, among large corporations, 3M is one of my heroes. I use their products nearly every day and appreciate their quality and consistency and lack of marketing hype.
The drill-mounted sanding pad and sanding discs that come with the kit make the job so less tedious than sanding by hand that I consider the kit one of the genuine bargains in automotive renovation.
Typical disclaimers, no affiliation, etc.
Cheers,
Don
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#8
03-26-2017, 06:42 PM
Well, for what it's worth, among large corporations, 3M is one of my heroes. I use their products nearly every day and appreciate their quality and consistency and lack of marketing hype.
The drill-mounted sanding pad and sanding discs that come with the kit make the job so less tedious than sanding by hand that I consider the kit one of the genuine bargains in automotive renovation.
Typical disclaimers, no affiliation, etc.
Cheers,
Don
The drill-mounted sanding pad and sanding discs that come with the kit make the job so less tedious than sanding by hand that I consider the kit one of the genuine bargains in automotive renovation.
Typical disclaimers, no affiliation, etc.
Cheers,
Don
#9
03-26-2017, 08:23 PM
Senior Member
I have had my 3M kit for awhile, and am waiting for it to get warm enough to pull the bumper and lights.
The one thing that is holding me up other than weather, is finding a good UV sealant to apply after polishing. Most of the detailing forums stress that without a sealer (not wax) they will re-cloud up sooner, and require another polish.
The better sealers cure with a UV light. Some say you can cure it by setting the lens out in the sun. The UV light cures in seconds, the sun can take anywhere from a day to two days. I would rather cure it in a couple of seconds vs outside avoiding grit/dust to set in before it is cured.
The one thing that is holding me up other than weather, is finding a good UV sealant to apply after polishing. Most of the detailing forums stress that without a sealer (not wax) they will re-cloud up sooner, and require another polish.
The better sealers cure with a UV light. Some say you can cure it by setting the lens out in the sun. The UV light cures in seconds, the sun can take anywhere from a day to two days. I would rather cure it in a couple of seconds vs outside avoiding grit/dust to set in before it is cured.
#10
03-26-2017, 08:56 PM
Senior Member
The 3M kit looks like a decent one, and has a lot of good reviews on Amazon.
I have all the products and pads myself, so I believe I typically use 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit (I begin at 600 or lower if its really bad). Follow up with Meguiars M-105 on an orange pad using the Flex 3401. I'll then use my choice of polish and a quality sealant, or just do a one step polish and wax with Meguiars D151. I tape off the edges of the paint as it is too easy to hit with the sandpaper or pad. It's typically cheaper in the long run to do it by piecing the kit together yourself, that is if you plan on using the pads and products purchased for other detailing projects, but I also understand if you are in need of a pad in the first place. A quality pad (Lake Country, Chemical Guys, etc) are usually around $10 or less, and then you'd need a backing plate and such.
Either way, it is definately a good idea to polish out the sand marks with a machine versus by hand, it is much quicker and you generally end up with superior results.
I have all the products and pads myself, so I believe I typically use 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit (I begin at 600 or lower if its really bad). Follow up with Meguiars M-105 on an orange pad using the Flex 3401. I'll then use my choice of polish and a quality sealant, or just do a one step polish and wax with Meguiars D151. I tape off the edges of the paint as it is too easy to hit with the sandpaper or pad. It's typically cheaper in the long run to do it by piecing the kit together yourself, that is if you plan on using the pads and products purchased for other detailing projects, but I also understand if you are in need of a pad in the first place. A quality pad (Lake Country, Chemical Guys, etc) are usually around $10 or less, and then you'd need a backing plate and such.
Either way, it is definately a good idea to polish out the sand marks with a machine versus by hand, it is much quicker and you generally end up with superior results.
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Sean W (03-27-2017)