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Finally! Video Interface/Camera/Smart Tv Box Install.
SO,,,,,, I have finally got everything in (for the most part in terms of parts etc.) but I do have all installed, which I must give a big shout out to a few guys here, 34by151, Jackra, Dennis Black, Rayalbers, & Rrd623 for giving & sharing great info along with some courage to make me go ahead with this; I will try & make this as detailed as I possibly can, along with all the pics & vids I have too. I was struggling on what Video interface to get, between the “Universal Low End Interface” from Car Solutions, which you see in the 1st pic, or the NavTool; after talking quite a bit to 34by151, I went with the Universal Low end 1; hooking it up was the same pretty much as the NavTool, but I wanted to have the extra input for “Just in case” purposes. I installed a GVIF in my truck & put a Kivic One box that does MiraCast & a Blu-Ray Player, so I just wanted to cover myself if I ended up wanting to put a Blu-Ray player in the car. (I’d just have to find 1 with Bluetooth! Ha!
The Camera; it was between the Boyo275HD, 1 of the smaller ones you’d have to drill that fits our cars, & the 1 you see in the pic below; I preferred a License plate frame 1, to keep from drilling a hole. So it was pretty easy to install that (especially the way I did it, as you will see later in the thread)
As for the Smart Box, I wasn’t even looking @the 1 I ended up with; I was looking @ either a WDtv Live Hub, or the TronSmart Draco unit; but started researching the CS918 Quad core box a bit more & for the price & what all I got (as you see in the pic) I could not beat it; Comparable to the TronSmart Draco Meta, 2g Ram 16g ROM box for much less; the ONLY caveat with this box is that, I have to manually power it on; if I could get a constant 12v to it(any ideas?) it’d then go into Standby mode, & I wouldn’t have to do anything, but for now, that’s my only complaint. Luckily for sound, I installed an ISM2351 (ISimple Tranzit Blu) back when I 1st bought the car, so the sound comes thru that just fine; links right up as soon as the box is on…
Last edited by Marque; 04-11-2015 at 12:13 AM.
Reason: adding post to complete thread.
So this was not too difficult, but certainly not as easy as the GVIF (being that’s just linking the LVDS or whatever you call it, cable)
So of course to start, was the dismantling of the trunk/boot; thank goodness for the trim tool kits I bought a while back; they came in extreme handy!.. (If I can say that) In pics 1-4, you see the trunk lining out of the car; pretty simple for the most part.
--then on to the Nav/stack; a 10mm socket is need to remove the 3 bolts on the trunk floor, & 1 on the sidewall so to speak; (also, you’ll have to remove some other tabs to really pull the stack away from its position; I didn’t get any pics or vid of that, but you’ll definitely know it once you start pulling it away; this includes the 2 black tabs with wire on the very front bottom of the Stack)
---for me, the easiest thing to do was, lay the stack down, so that the wires pointed upward (as you see in 5-8)
----then I removed the Biggest pin bracket you see, the 26pinout, & started to remove the black tape loom as well as the yellow tape holding the separate wires of the different pins together
-----after that, I CUT 5 wires; they are
Pin 1
Pin 2
Pin 14
Pin 15
Pin 16
(I can’t remember the exact colors, BUT)
You connect the wires of the White connector pinout side that goes back into the Nav Unit, to the OEM INPUT of the interface; & obviously, the other cut wires will connect to the wires going into the RGB OUT of the interface; those colors from the interface are;
1 = Sync (white)
2 = Video Green
14 = Video Red
15 = Video Blue
16 = Video Ground (video earth) this wire is made a little differently & is white with a black stripe & connects to the BLACK wire on the interface… you can also see all of this in pics 5-8…
------the power, ACC & Ground, you get from the BLACK Connector pinout on the Nav Unit; there are 2 RED wires, but the 1 you use is PIN 11…
Now you should be ready to test & see if everything works as normal as far as the Regular Nav Unit/Head Unit etc. As you see in Pics 9-10, I connected the Toggle switch & IR for the remote, & just grabbed the toggle switch, & walked it around to the front of the car with me to test out; the 1st few times, I got the blurred lines, black screen etc. I had to play with the dip switches on a few tries, & voila! I had the normal screen back, as well as I could see the test DVD Player I hooked up just to see if I had all hooked up correctly;
So now it’s time to take out the backseats to run the video cable, as well as the Toggle switch & IR cable towards the front; these pics will show how & where I ran the wires.
-after I got the seats out, which was much simpler than I imagined, I ran the video cable from the interface, over to the right side of the trunk/boot & through the white _______ (whatever you call it) The wire WON’T just go thru it without you doing anything, so you have to use a little force but not much.
--I got all the slack I could, which was plenty because this is a 20ft cable that I bought; you see it as I pull it thru the _______ behind the upper backseat rest.
---I then tuck it between the seat & trim as I pull it, & then up the side of the car tucking it under the trim all the way towards the front.
----I then tuck it under & thru the front foot trim, remove the ________ under the Glove box so that I could run the wire up thru there & then into the back of the Glove compartment.
IN ONE OF THE PICS, you see a Blue wire; I had traced my steps a few days before I started the install just to see where to get the wire into the Glove box @; so I used the Blue wire to guide me thru with the RCA Cable; I tied the RCA cable to the Blue wire, which was already in line as to where I wanted the wire to go, together with a rubber band, & pulled the RCA cable thru with the Blue wire.
-------1 thing I had to do was, make the hole a bit larger in the back of the Glove box where you see the wire coming thru, to get the RCA head thru it; I just used a drill to make it larger.
& there you have your RCA cable front the trunk/boot to the Glove Box…
I used the same method for the toggle switch & IR cable, but of course on the left side of the car; you see on 1 of the pics, I had the toggle switch on the trim by the front seat & door, because that was as far as it would go! I really did not like that though! The IR was fine down there but not the toggle switch.
-so what I did was, cut the toggle switch, add some wire (ACC & GROUND) & made it long enough to put it where I had intended for it to go. On the gearshaft; I used an insulation rod to pull/guide the new wire thru the gear shaft console, ran it thru the carpet & back down the trim, so all is hidden… (please forgive all the junk you see! I cleaned all that up!!!
I did this much differently than most, in that I did NOT use a relay or transistor of any sort; I purposely wanted to run it to 12v so that I can be able to look @it whenever I want. So I had no intent on hooking it up to the “””REVERSED””” reverse wire.
In pic 1 you see the camera itself; in pic 2, what you see is my License Plate bulb socket removed, & I connected the 12v (with extra wire) to it & I connected the ground to one of the nuts that holds the Chrome “Jaguar” Plate on the back of the trunk. This way, I can hook up the camera to VIDEO 2, & look @it anytime I feel I want to…
You see all this in the pics.
I tested to make sure I got a picture, & I did, so on to the permanent install part.
--remember earlier, I said I “removed” the license plate bulb & socket; that’s how I got the wires from the camera inside the car; I connected the RCA cable & then ran that around the loom atop the trunk/boot down to the 1st opening; ran it thru there, but found it too difficult ‘for me’ to get it thru the other parts of the plastic loom, so I just taped it around that loom as you see in the pics.
I did run it thru the bottom loom to get back into the inside of the trunk/boot.
---I ran it around the back side thru some of the metal to be certain it’d be out of the way, & to the video interface.
----where the plate lens goes, I put a wire loom there & then taped it to be sure no water would get thru there.
Here, I had not much to hook up of course, because I already had the RCA cable ran, & the Sound comes thru my Bluetooth, so no cables for that…
--1 thing that has held me back some from actually mounted the box in the Glove box, is the fact I still hadn’t received the correct cable for it yet; the 1st pic is the cable I ordered, but they sent me a USB end instead; I am planning to hardwire it to the wiring of the Cig adapter in the Glove Box (anyone have any ideas on Constant 12v?)
I also got the wrong cable with the box as well, so for now, I’m using a OTG cable which works fine but will shut off from time to time. I’ll have the correct cable next week, that way I can mount the box on the top side of the Glove Box so that it isn’t seen when the Glove box is open…
I’ll let the videos do the “typing” for this…
I certainly hope that this helps someone else, as I am in NO WAY, an install guy, but this forum is what helped me & gave me the nerve to go ahead with this…
So, after having the Tronsmart Draco telos (4g RAM/32g ROM/ OCTA-CORE Processor) box for a few weeks now, I finally replaced the CS918 with it; reason it took so long was, it wouldn't work with a regular AV cable like the 1st box, which I sorta thought it wouldn't, but I didn't go with my 1st mind; so, again, NOT going with my 1st or 2nd mind, I ordered an HDMI to AV cable (not converter) which didn't work either.
So I then ordered an HDMI to AV converter box, which is what I should've done in the 1st place. Works like a charm, up-converting the signal, so it really looks good. The MAIN reason for me replacing it too, is because the CS918 boxes has to be physically turned on, meaning I'd always have to open the Glove box & hit the button to power it on; the Tronsmart automatically cuts on with the car power, which to me is a huge plus!!!
For a wireless remote control mouse, I use a,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, SAMSUNG GALAXY S2 that I had laying around; I have HOTSPOT on my Galaxy Note 3, & have an app on it called "Tasker" which basically allows you to create ANY type macro you can think of; in the car, I have it set to where, when the Jaguar ignition is turned on, & the Jaguar Bluetooth is connected to my Note 3, it then activates the Wi-Fi to cut off, & then cuts the HOTSPOT on; I have the "Google tv remote app" on the Galaxy S2, so it links right up to the Tronsmart (both connected to internet via my rooted Galaxy Note 3) & sound from Tronsmart connects to the ISFM Tranzit Blu Bluetooth module, & there you have it!..
EVERYTHING works great on it. KODI, which actually I rarely find myself using it, but it's great; I also have a 64g SD card connected to it; I went to Atl this past weekend (from Memphis)
I was able to watch the whole "House of Cards" series via Netflix (well, all but 2 eps)
I have velcro on the top side of it, so that it's out of the way if I ever needed to put something in the Glove box. & since I don't have to physically power it on, it's fine there!..
I made a video of some of the functions. (Not the install) just having a Lil fun. again, tonite, I road around with the wife good almost 4 hrs just listening to music. I too, still have my ISFM2351 Bluetooth transmitter hooked up, which I now have dedicated for the Tronsmart. If you look closely on the video, when I switch to the radio to go to the BT transmitter to hear the TV BOX, you'll see on the 1st preset, it says Connected to Drago & you can see the RDS scrolling as well in the top left corner...
Wow - Thanks for documenting this as much as possible - I know it slows things down quite a bit to have to stop and take pics. I also am not sure if I would take it this far - you know I am getting ready to do the Bluetooth streaming device from Veffremov, but if I ever do... I have bookmarked this thread since it shows almost the whole thing begging to end, and I am always amazed at how decent the video looks on Jaguars touch screen. I glad you took the bold moves but it looks like your research and discussions ahead of time helped you get this working in a reasonable amount of time. Great work!
You're welcome. & yeah, that'll definitely work.. Either way, you have to do done wiring; I chose the one I got due to the fact I have 3 video inputs...
So this was not too difficult, but certainly not as easy as the GVIF (being that’s just linking the LVDS or whatever you call it, cable)
So of course to start, was the dismantling of the trunk/boot; thank goodness for the trim tool kits I bought a while back; they came in extreme handy!.. (If I can say that) In pics 1-4, you see the trunk lining out of the car; pretty simple for the most part.
--then on to the Nav/stack; a 10mm socket is need to remove the 3 bolts on the trunk floor, & 1 on the sidewall so to speak; (also, you’ll have to remove some other tabs to really pull the stack away from its position; I didn’t get any pics or vid of that, but you’ll definitely know it once you start pulling it away; this includes the 2 black tabs with wire on the very front bottom of the Stack)
---for me, the easiest thing to do was, lay the stack down, so that the wires pointed upward (as you see in 5-8)
----then I removed the Biggest pin bracket you see, the 26pinout, & started to remove the black tape loom as well as the yellow tape holding the separate wires of the different pins together
-----after that, I CUT 5 wires; they are
Pin 1
Pin 2
Pin 14
Pin 15
Pin 16
(I can’t remember the exact colors, BUT)
You connect the wires of the White connector pinout side that goes back into the Nav Unit, to the OEM INPUT of the interface; & obviously, the other cut wires will connect to the wires going into the RGB OUT of the interface; those colors from the interface are;
1 = Sync (white)
2 = Video Green
14 = Video Red
15 = Video Blue
16 = Video Ground (video earth) this wire is made a little differently & is white with a black stripe & connects to the BLACK wire on the interface… you can also see all of this in pics 5-8…
------the power, ACC & Ground, you get from the BLACK Connector pinout on the Nav Unit; there are 2 RED wires, but the 1 you use is PIN 11…
Now you should be ready to test & see if everything works as normal as far as the Regular Nav Unit/Head Unit etc. As you see in Pics 9-10, I connected the Toggle switch & IR for the remote, & just grabbed the toggle switch, & walked it around to the front of the car with me to test out; the 1st few times, I got the blurred lines, black screen etc. I had to play with the dip switches on a few tries, & voila! I had the normal screen back, as well as I could see the test DVD Player I hooked up just to see if I had all hooked up correctly; HERE YOU SEE IN THIS VIDEO & pic 11, everything was fine & I was a very happy person!!! Hahaha (Flexing in thee Car Bud-deee) hahaha (you have to watch the video! Lol)
ok bro. I thought I was cool. seems like the only genius here is you! How did you figure out the pins? I want to add a camera. I understand you hooked camera up to a toggle to work it whenever you pleased. I would hook it up to trigger in reverse on mine. So I need the RGB converter. Also planning on doing a computer in the rear office So I will have it mirrored to front screen. Question when camera is triggered it shows on screen. What about say a dvd player? hook that up to a switch as well?
Last edited by Evan Trinh; 12-04-2015 at 02:38 AM.
Hey Even, actually whatever is hooked up to the video interface, be it a camera, DVD, Computer etc, the switch will toggle thru each thing; it's just a matter of how many devices you have hooked to the video interface & the dip switches. As you see, I have just the camera & an Android tv box (Tronsmart Draco Telos) with Kodi, & an SD slot plus e-sata drive port, meaning "who needs a DVD player with all that storage!" Hahaha
As for the camera, you'd need to hook that to a relay for it to work correctly when switched to reverse, because for some odd reason, they decided to wire our reverse lights backwards, so basically, if you wired it straight to the reverse wire, the camera would actually ALWAYS be on when NOT in reverse, & OFF when IN reverse! (Go figure)
So me, wanting to be able to see it even when in drive, I just wired the camera to the license plate light power, put the switch right there on the J-gate, so that way when I'm about to reverse, my finger is right there on the button to toggle...
04-10-2015, 09:33 PM
Finally! Video Interface/Camera/Smart Tv Box Install.
So I will have it mirrored to front screen. Question when camera is triggered it shows on screen. What about say a dvd player? hook that up to a switch as well?