replace brakes and rotors myself 2004 vdp - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum


XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

replace brakes and rotors myself 2004 vdp

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 03-05-2010, 07:52 PM
haggis95's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 201
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Default replace brakes and rotors myself 2004 vdp

I change the brakes and rotors on my wifes van and on my own motorbikes, so would like to do them on the Jag.

Is there anything to look out for? Any potential "woops, shouldn'ta done that's?"
I'm at 60K (kilometers) Should I bleed them first? If not do I need to do anythng special re the ABS?

I'm just going to go with the OEMs. Any problems with that?

Any and all advice cheerfully accepted!

P.S. whats a good source of parts in Canada?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-05-2010, 08:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Haworth NJ/ Bristol RI
Posts: 145
Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default

I actually just ordered brakes for my 04 XJ8 which would be the same brakes as your VDP. I just ordered them yesterday but I got them from www.perfectbrakes.com, I went with aftermarket pads and rotors which I think are a much higher quality then the OEM ones and they also happen to be cheaper. Besides having better stopping power from the research i've done one of the biggest things they have over the OEM ones is that they produce little to no brake dust which made a huge difference for me. I went with EBC Red Stuff pads and their XR series OEM rotors.

Here are the part numbers for them along with prices:
--------------------------
Product ID: 017008
Product Name: UPR1411 (12.6")
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $124.87
--------------------------
Product ID: 037189
Product Name: UPR951 (11.3")
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $76.04
--------------------------
Product ID: 009911
Product Name: DP31220/2C
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $88.56
--------------------------
Product ID: 031689
Product Name: DP31221/2C
Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $88.56

Hope this helps,

Mat
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-05-2010, 11:30 PM
haggis95's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 201
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Hey thanks for the detailed reply!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-06-2010, 07:35 AM
ud
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 1,596
Thanks: 0
Thanked 111 Times in 69 Posts
Default

Yes, just a couple of tips, and I give this info with reservation as I never know the technical competence of someone I've never met online, especially while working on such a critical function - the braking system. I don't mean to impugn your technical integrity, so please accept my apologies if that is the case. As in anything technically complex as the braking system, there are a hundred things that a comeptent tech will see and take appropriate action that a novice might miss and these things might fall out of the normal realm of the tpyical brake job.

DO NOT retract the rear pistons like you did on your wife's van as these pistions screw in. You need a special tool to accomplish that. If you try to push them in you'll permanently damage the rear calipers. You also have to make sure the parking brake is released. The front pistons do work like your wife's van and can be retracted probably the way that you did on the van.

This is a generic tip for all brake systems - I do not push brake fluid backwards through the system (especially ABS). Instead, I crack open the bleeder screws at each caliper right before I retract the pistons. Use a small piece of plastic tubing and let the brake fluid drain out into a container rather than pushing it back through the system.

I do flush the entire system and replace all the brake fluid if the car has more than two years on the existing fluid. Color is the best indicator. Brake fluid should be almost colorless, use new fluid color as the standard. If the fluid in the reservoir looks like the color of urine or dark honey then I flush the entire system using a power bleeder. This can also be done manually (two-person operation), but it takes some time.

On pads, I always replace OEM pads with ceramics. I'm not recommending any special brand as there are mumerous choices. You'll be much happier with their performance, cleanliness, etc. And, the prices of ceramics are in a range that is not cost prohibitive.

Best of luck to you
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-06-2010, 09:51 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: DFW area, Texas
Posts: 79
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Cool Just a Thought on OEM

I don't have any specific advice for you on the 04, as I haven't had my X350 long enough to do anything to it. But when you said you were planning on just using stock OEM parts, I thought I'd suggest you consider otherwise.

I bought my 2000 XJ8 new, and the stock brakes were completely shot before 20,000 miles. I wasn't pleased. I went to the local discount auto parts store and bought whatever normal brand of pads they sold with lifetime warranty on them and put them on myself. I got 90,000 miles on those pads before I had to replace them again (for free, of course). I never noticed any significant difference in performance from the stock pads. Good luck,
Goose
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-06-2010, 09:56 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: DFW area, Texas
Posts: 79
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Thumbs up Thanx for the tip!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevetech View Post
DO NOT retract the rear pistons like you did on your wife's van as these pistions screw in. You need a special tool to accomplish that. If you try to push them in you'll permanently damage the rear calipers. You also have to make sure the parking brake is released. The front pistons do work like your wife's van and can be retracted probably the way that you did on the van.
Thanx for this tip, stevetech, I had not heard of such a thing before. I'll have to do some research on it before I have to do the brakes on my 2007!
Goose
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-06-2010, 05:06 PM
haggis95's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 201
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevetech View Post
Yes, just a couple of tips, and I give this info with reservation as I never know the technical competence of someone I've never met online, especially while working on such a critical function - the braking system. I don't mean to impugn your technical integrity, so please accept my apologies if that is the case.

All info happily accepted - thanks!

DO NOT retract the rear pistons like you did on your wife's van as these pistions screw in. You need a special tool to accomplish that. If you try to push them in you'll permanently damage the rear calipers. You also have to make sure the parking brake is released. The front pistons do work like your wife's van and can be retracted probably the way that you did on the van.

This is what I had read somewhere, and wanted verification on. Thanks!

This is a generic tip for all brake systems - I do not push brake fluid backwards through the system (especially ABS). Instead, I crack open the bleeder screws at each caliper right before I retract the pistons. Use a small piece of plastic tubing and let the brake fluid drain out into a container rather than pushing it back through the system.

Again, good info. Corroborates what I had read, but here it comes from the "horse's mouth" so to speak! [Thumbup]

I do flush the entire system and replace all the brake fluid if the car has more than two years on the existing fluid. Color is the best indicator. Brake fluid should be almost colorless, use new fluid color as the standard. If the fluid in the reservoir looks like the color of urine or dark honey then I flush the entire system using a power bleeder. This can also be done manually (two-person operation), but it takes some time.

On pads, I always replace OEM pads with ceramics. I'm not recommending any special brand as there are mumerous choices. You'll be much happier with their performance, cleanliness, etc. And, the prices of ceramics are in a range that is not cost prohibitive.

Best of luck to you
Thanks for your hints - they are exactly what I was looking for!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-06-2010, 06:22 PM
haggis95's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 201
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Now about that tool.... Does it have to be jaguar specific? There are a few sets out there, but I haven;t seen a Jag one.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-06-2010, 10:17 PM
mosesbotbol's Avatar
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Boston, USA
Posts: 3,424
Thanked 406 Times in 357 Posts
Default

My local jag garage likes to stay with OEM pads and rotors. They were impressed with my Akebono pads and which I used with OEM rotors. The rotors are really nice looking and I can not see what improvement could be had be using something else.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-17-2010, 08:51 AM
chadmc5c's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nor cen florida
Posts: 123
Thanked 11 Times in 5 Posts
Default fluid

Good on the bleed when pushing back pistons Stevetech. I've been doing this for years and am suprised at how many post I've seen on brake repair that don't mention this.
Don't want any of the old crap pushed back into the system. I've been using Superblue brake fluid which is blue in color so you can easily tell when the flush is complete.
Chad
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-17-2010, 02:20 PM
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 1,924
Thanked 50 Times in 33 Posts
Default

Re Pad choice
I only use EBC ceramics (redstuff)....bye bye brake dust and hello fantastic braking
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-17-2010, 02:22 PM
oldmots's Avatar
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chesapeake Bay area, Virginia
Posts: 1,499
Thanked 220 Times in 192 Posts
Default

I bought the tools for the rotary rear caliper piston retraction from Harbor Freight, for about $35. They worked fine. I also use a plastic clamp that looks like a locking scissors to clamp the brake line to keep crud from going back into the system. I usually replace all the brake fluid after a brake job, I use a pressure bleeder (Motive Power) which makes it a fast one-man job.... run it at about 15 psi. If the car is over about 5-6 years old, I also replace the brake hoses in this operation. Cheap parts and you're right there.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-18-2010, 03:15 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 12
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default rear brakes

Thanks for the good advice guys. The rear brakes on my 04 XJR need replacing. I am planning to take it to a high end European car mechanic, not the Jag dealer. Any reason to think he wouldn't understand the subtleties of my system?

Tallbird.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Troubleshooting Noises (Is Your Jaguar Trying to Tell You Something?) BrentGardner XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 3 11-30-2016 11:06 AM
Steering Wheel Shimmering, Balancing. What to do next? Doberman_Fan XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 15 06-16-2016 11:51 PM
Hard downshift when braking Oliver9218 XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 3 09-03-2015 06:33 PM
Xjl brake pad and rotor thickness ronald4313jm XJ ( X351 ) 1 08-31-2015 08:58 AM
Newby with air suspension fault philwarner XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 7 08-31-2015 12:17 AM


Tags
2004, brake, brakes, braks, change, jaguar, pad, parking, replace, replacement, rotor, rotors, rplacing, xj8, xjr, xtype


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:27 PM.


JAGUAR and its logo are the registered trademarks of Jaguar Cars Limited. Jaguar Cars Limited is not affiliated with JaguarForums.com.