I recently replaced the suspension on the right front side with a new arnott. But the vehicle is still not raised to the level required. Now the mech says that the pressure coming in from the compressor is not enough and that it needs to be replaced.

Can anyone help as to how we make sure whether is it really the pressure problem and replace it or is it something else.

What is the capacity of these compressor ?
How much pressure is required to fill the suspensions ?
Is there any way to check the air pressure released from the compressor ?

 

Hi jagnew,

I have moved your post to start your own new thread since your topic is different than that of the previous thread. Please answer the following questions and we'll do our best to help:

What is the year, model and mileage of your Jaguar?

What were the symptoms that prompted you to replace the front right air spring/damper with a new Arnott unit?

Is the entire car sitting too low or just the front right corner?

Have you had trouble with the car not raising up in the past?

Regarding the compressor, the statistics you asked about are all given in the Air Suspension & ECATS section of the Dealer Training manual, which you can download here:

http://www.mediafire.com/file/7rdkgg...on_Section.pdf

Many of us have found that we didn't need to replace our compressors, we just needed to replace the piston ring/seal in the compressor using an inexpensive kit from our forum member bagpipingandy, whose website is bagpipingandy.com. At the links below are photos showing the process of replacing the piston ring. Most owners don't bother replacing the desiccant beads as I did:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for your help Don....


I am going through the link given. Please advice what should I do next. The mechanic has removed the compressor and the valve (photo attached). Please explain what is this valve, and what role does it play in the suspension.

Thanks.

 

Hi jagnew,

Your 2004 XJ6 is a Jaguar factory project code X350. The X358 was a facelifted or cosmetically-revised version introduced in 2007.

The component in your photo is the valve body, which feeds air from the compressor to the reservoir and apportions air pressure from the reservoir to all four air springs to maintain the proper ride height. The lower electrical connector on the left is how the Air Suspension Control Module (ASM) controls the valve body. The upper electrical connector is for the pressure switch which tells the ASM when the pressure falls below the threshold so it will activate the air compressor. All of this is explained in the Air Suspension section of the Dealer Training manual that I linked to in my earlier post.

Why did the mechanic remove the valve body? Jaguar describes it as a "non-serviceable part," so I would recommend the mechanic reinstall it, taking care to reattach all the air hoses in their correct positions. Also, ask him not to overtighten the air hose fittings, which is a known cause of leaks and potential thread damage. Now that he has disturbed those fittings, he may have to install new compression rings or "olives" on the air hoses in order to prevent leaks.

From your symptoms and the 90K miles on the car, it is nearly certain that the piston ring/seal in your air compressor is worn and the compressor is not charging the system as rapidly as it should. The compressor may appear to be functioning properly, but with a worn piston ring it can't supply sufficient pressure in the time alloted by the ASM before it triggers fault codes. In conjunction with the leaking front right air spring, that is probably why you were getting the VEHICLE TOO LOW and AIR SUSPENSION FAULT warnings. If your mechanic has the ability to scan the proprietary Jaguar diagnostic fault codes (DTCs), he will probably find that one or two codes are stored: Leveling Plausibility Error (C2302), and/or Reservoir Plausibility Error (C2303). These are proprietary Jaguar Chassis codes and cannot be read by standard OBDII scanners, which can typically only read the Powertrain (P) codes.

I would recommend replacing the piston ring as a first step to ensure the compressor is functioning properly, then deal with any remaining issues. Based on your symptoms, I would not suspect the valve body, so I think your mechanic should just reinstall it (carefully).

Cheers,

Don

 

It's disappointing to see how mechs jump in removing parts that are in general not the first culprits to be suspected.
It is now quite well known that, with the issues described, the first things to check in a X350 are the compressor (actually its seals) and/or one or more shocks before going to dismantle the valve block.

 

Thanks.

 

I would recommend that you open the air dryer and clean any corrosion you find on the spring and leaf valve, but don't worry about replacing the desiccant beads.

I would also recommend removing the exhaust valve and checking for any corrosion. I'm sorry I don't have photos of that process, but one of my photos does identify the exhaust valve.

Please keep us informed.

Cheers,

Don

 

What liquid should I used as a cleaning agent to clean off the corrosion. Also should I use a metal brush or any brush easily available would do... like a tooth brush

Also, where in the vehicle is the valve installed ?

If I have any doubts, I ll post more queries and keep you updated on the progress.

I love the Jag-Lover site. The hard work is clearly visible. I am to support it.

 

Stop. Do not pass go.

Did your mechanic go through the procedures to reset the CATS?

If they don't have the right tool to talk to the Jag's computers, nothing good will happen. As mentioned, there's almost no reason to disassemble the block. It either leaks or it doesn't.

Please provide more information on what has been done. Start at the beginning and explain everything step by step.

 

Vehicle had the problem of AIR SUSPENSION FAULT. Mostly manageable on the road. It was difficult to pass thru humps and underground parking driveway, as the spring effect were mostly dead. Very often it used to shake on highways (clearly due to bad springs). Gradually this started to get worse. If I don't drive for a week or so, the vehicle use to go very low, on engine start I get the message VEHICLE TOO LOW. By looking at it, it was faulty on the front only. So I thot to get this thing sorted before it becomes any more worst.

Got the whole thing checked by a good technician. He said it is the right front spring leak and due to that it would not pump air into the left side too.
Last month I got the right front suspension replaced with new arnott. The mech claims that the vehicle has come up , but when I went to check it, it was still not up to the mark for a safe and comfort drive. So I left the car with him for further diagnosis. He returned saying he needs to test the sensors, but did not talk further about it. So I guess the sensors were Ok. Later they came back saying it was the compressor and the valve (picture attached earlier).

So he removed the compressor and the valve and gave me. I somehow was doubtful on the valve, but not being a tech guy myself cannot decide, hence this forum.

As per instructions by Don, I opened up the compressor to remove the piston ring and the O seal. Further to that, it is pause mode. Waiting for further instructions now.

Hope I could explain well. PLease let me know if I you need more info to help me.

 

Can I please have links to any other Dealer Service Training Manual covering other topics of the vehicle.. like the Air Conditioning/ Climate control, various electrical components, parking sensors, Engine Cooling System, etc... or anything anything..

Cheers.

 

Jagnew,
From what I read, you are sufficiently DIY to make further progress by yourself.
You have been able to dismantle the compressor and are going to inspect/clean/derust the spring and valve of the compressor.
I haven't done it myself but I would recommend you start the soft way, with alcohol and mild organic solvents and a tooth brush. Then go further only if necessary and very carefully with a soft metal (copper) brush, knowing that then you risk damaging the surfaces in contact and jeopardize the tightness.
As Don says, changing or drying the dessicant would not bring much, because this material sees a lot of moisture passing through it during the various air flowing cycles: it sucks water as a sponge and restitutes what it can during the planned exhausts. But if you have a new pebble bed available when the system is opened and if you do it properly, why not.
Btw, the exhaust valve Don is talking about is a valve in the compressor assembly behind the front bumper, not the valve block (a system of several valves) dismantled wrongly by your mech (picture that you showed before) which is in the trunk.

 

I would make "your mechanic" someone else's mechanic...

 

A small wire brush will be more effective in scrubbing any rust you find, along with any good penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, etc.). A toothbrush is too soft and won't do enough.

As paydase mentioned, the exhaust valve is attached to the air compressor and is shown in one of the photos in my albums. The valve block is mounted near the air reservoir under the spare wheel in the trunk.

Have you ordered the new piston ring kit from bagpipingandy?

Cheers,

Don

 

This, and get the system back together. Stop taking things apart, chances are it was fine the way it was, just needed to be balanced with SDD.

 

I now think I am able to put all info together and get a good picture out of it. Thanks to all here.

I am getting the liquid that mentions on the bottle GREENCROSS "ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL" 70% Solution. Can I use this to clean ? Or a more silly question... can I use a home use nail polish remover ? :| . It has acetone and water, dimethylamine propionate, and some sort of protien too... Please advice best and a quicker way.

I am trying to get the Piston ring and the seal locally here. If no luck, then I'll order it from bagpipingandy.

I post progress here as it happens. Since I am doing it, should I take photos and post it here ? The only problem is that I cannot do it all together as cannot take pictures with spoilt hands. But can try.

Cheers.

 

I now think I am able to put all info together and get a good picture out of it. Thanks to all here.

I am getting the liquid that mentions on the bottle GREENCROSS "ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL" 70% Solution. Can I use this to clean ? Or a more silly question... can I use a home use nail polish remover ? :| . It has acetone and water, dimethylamine propionate, and some sort of protein too... Please advice best and a quicker way. I tried on a small portion (with polish remover) to see the effect and difference between cleaned and uncleaned area (photo posted). Should I continue using it ?

I am trying to get the Piston ring and the seal locally here. If no luck, then I'll order it from bagpipingandy.

I post progress here as it happens. Since I am doing it, should I take photos and post it here ? The only problem is that I cannot do it all together as cannot take pictures with spoiled hands. But can try.

Cheers.

 

The bagpipingandy kit of of very good and well known quality. I believe he delivers it worldwide quickly, send him an MP here.
Isopropyl alcohol is very mild, kind of more effective than alcohol to clean but maybe not sufficient to remove greasy stuff. Have a first try with it and if it does not work, acetone containing liquid with additives will be more powerful as a second try.
None of these however will remove rust; to do that you need phosphoric acid or alike.

 

I agree with paydase that alcohol is not effective on rust. I had good success with penetrating oil and a wire brush. For the spring, I think I ran it on my bench-mounted wire wheel, which was much faster than cleaning it by hand. After cleaning the rust, I degreased the spring with acetone or lacquer thinner, then sprayed it with a rust-preventative spray paint.

Acetone can dissolve or damage some plastics and will dissolve many paints in a hurry, so take care what you touch with nail polish remover or straight acetone.

Cheers,

Don

 

To put all of it together, I should first try with Isopropyl alcohol, and then with acetone (nail polish remover). The rush can be removed with an oil. Which oil would you suggest ?

I'll take your advice again when I start with the plastic container of beads.

Should I clean the crankcase too ? and with what / how ?