Restricted performance / temp guage
#21
04-03-2016, 01:54 PM
My maintenance notes show at 49,000 miles a sticking thermostat was replaced under warranty, at 53,500 miles there was a leak at the thermostat housing and the thermostat seal was replaced under warranty, and then at 85,700 the thermostat outlet pipe was replaced (along with waterpump and drivebelt for $1.4k).
Every 40,000 miles from here on out I'll have them replace the thermostat along with housing and seal. That won't cost much and it will probably avoid leaks and the huge problem and expense of the housing disenigrating and dropping bits into the waterpump.
Every 40,000 miles from here on out I'll have them replace the thermostat along with housing and seal. That won't cost much and it will probably avoid leaks and the huge problem and expense of the housing disenigrating and dropping bits into the waterpump.
The following users liked this post:
NBCat (04-03-2016)
#22
04-17-2016, 10:52 AM
I had a 2004 xjr that on a long drive from Arizona to California would all of a sudden have the thermostat peg all the way to super hot. I"d pull over heart pumping( just bought it) and think this is just great. Waited 5-10 minutes and the car needle moved to the middle.It turned out to be the thermostat and after that it has never been a problem. Not too difficult a job either.
#23
12-28-2016, 10:08 PM
Tonight after shutting off engine noticed electric fans running fast. Restarted car and dash temp gauge normal middle and no trouble lamps, turned off engine and fans still running.
Was driving normal, air temp 65f, no low coolant lamp, no coolant smell, aircon off. Normally aspirated engine, don't have code reader yet.
This year already three dealer visits and spent over $4000 on thermostat and housing, water pump, belt, oil pan, tie rods, bushings, computer communication issue, etc. Sigh...
Was driving normal, air temp 65f, no low coolant lamp, no coolant smell, aircon off. Normally aspirated engine, don't have code reader yet.
This year already three dealer visits and spent over $4000 on thermostat and housing, water pump, belt, oil pan, tie rods, bushings, computer communication issue, etc. Sigh...
#24
01-16-2017, 06:55 PM
About a week ago my wife and I were surprised to hear the electric cooling fans running after the engine was turned off. The thermostat, housing, water pump, and belt had been changed less than a year ago at a Jag dealer, and the cooling system should be in perfect condition.
The car was at a second dealer for a fail to pass smog test, and they did a hard reset and reflash of the computer. After I drove the car awhile I purchased a code reader for the failure to pass smog issue, and began monitoring the coolant system with it also.
The Jag dealer diagnosed needs a new thermostat and gave a verbal quote of "north of $1000" and a written quote of around $750. After speaking with the service advisor where the thermostat and housing were changed less than a year ago it was determined the parts and labor were under warranty, and the second Jag dealer removed the thermostat housing and said it was ok but one of the seals was twisted and crushed and wasn't providing proper suction. Doesn't sound like an accurate diagnosis.
Now the code reader usually shows the temp at 196 degrees farenheit, occasionally rising to 201 degrees and once spiking momentarily to 209 degrees, it shows fault codes P0113 and P0102 which may be unrelated to the coolant system, and the cooling fans came on after the engine was turned off.
The Jag dealer tells me these coolant temps are normal, they have seen the fault codes and did not say they were a problem, and he said it is normal for the electric cooling fans to run for up to 4 minutes after engine shutdown even though we never heard them do that except for the time right before the thermostat and housing had to be changed due to housing disintegration.
Using the code reader I will monitor the cooling system and report any further information learned from it. Also the smog check just passed so I reset the codes and we'll see if they come back.
The car was at a second dealer for a fail to pass smog test, and they did a hard reset and reflash of the computer. After I drove the car awhile I purchased a code reader for the failure to pass smog issue, and began monitoring the coolant system with it also.
The Jag dealer diagnosed needs a new thermostat and gave a verbal quote of "north of $1000" and a written quote of around $750. After speaking with the service advisor where the thermostat and housing were changed less than a year ago it was determined the parts and labor were under warranty, and the second Jag dealer removed the thermostat housing and said it was ok but one of the seals was twisted and crushed and wasn't providing proper suction. Doesn't sound like an accurate diagnosis.
Now the code reader usually shows the temp at 196 degrees farenheit, occasionally rising to 201 degrees and once spiking momentarily to 209 degrees, it shows fault codes P0113 and P0102 which may be unrelated to the coolant system, and the cooling fans came on after the engine was turned off.
The Jag dealer tells me these coolant temps are normal, they have seen the fault codes and did not say they were a problem, and he said it is normal for the electric cooling fans to run for up to 4 minutes after engine shutdown even though we never heard them do that except for the time right before the thermostat and housing had to be changed due to housing disintegration.
Using the code reader I will monitor the cooling system and report any further information learned from it. Also the smog check just passed so I reset the codes and we'll see if they come back.
Last edited by XJPurr; 01-16-2017 at 09:47 PM.
#25
01-17-2017, 01:10 AM
Veteran Member
#26
01-17-2017, 03:32 AM
I have a scanguage on my car so I get to see the actual temp all the time. My car, which is the identical twin of yours, runs at 203 90% of the time. Goes up or down from 199 to 207 depending on load but quickly settles back to 203. From memory the thermostat is fully open at 201. Rightly or wrongly, my fans have never run on after shutdown.
The following users liked this post:
XJPurr (01-20-2017)
#27
01-20-2017, 05:44 PM
I have a scanguage on my car so I get to see the actual temp all the time. My car, which is the identical twin of yours, runs at 203 90% of the time. Goes up or down from 199 to 207 depending on load but quickly settles back to 203. From memory the thermostat is fully open at 201. Rightly or wrongly, my fans have never run on after shutdown.
Jag dealer again told me ok for fans to run a few minutes after shut down, the temps are ok, so it is a mystery why the fans have started doing this that I will have to live with for the time being, and long-term I might figure out why the fans run when the coolant is not hot.
#28
06-25-2017, 10:12 PM
Jag service center has fixed difficult problems and after computer reflash engine runs better than new. However I think they don't always tell me the truth.
Been getting low coolant alerts and having to add small amounts to the reservoir, and then found a very small leak at the reservoir upper hose nipple. Don't know what the connection is but suspect this is why fans run sometimes after engine shut down, and that condition is not normal as service advisor repeatedly told me.
It looks like changing the coolant reservoir is within my ability, but I won't have a place to work on the car for a few months so will have to live with the fans running for awhile.
After using a code reader I feel every family should have one and regularly check all their vehicles. My Jag showed a U0426 code (immobilizer data invalid?). That code is probably not related to the reservoir leak and is likely an early alert for my next expensive trip to the factory service center.
Been getting low coolant alerts and having to add small amounts to the reservoir, and then found a very small leak at the reservoir upper hose nipple. Don't know what the connection is but suspect this is why fans run sometimes after engine shut down, and that condition is not normal as service advisor repeatedly told me.
It looks like changing the coolant reservoir is within my ability, but I won't have a place to work on the car for a few months so will have to live with the fans running for awhile.
After using a code reader I feel every family should have one and regularly check all their vehicles. My Jag showed a U0426 code (immobilizer data invalid?). That code is probably not related to the reservoir leak and is likely an early alert for my next expensive trip to the factory service center.
#29
06-26-2017, 06:42 AM
Veteran Member
It is relatively common for the coolant tank nipple to develop a leak over time.
I recently replaced my tank because I thought that was the problem however I still had the problem with the new tank. It turned out that the connecting hose was slightly "enlarged" due to age at the nipple connection.
A new hose cured the issue.
Soon after purchasing my car I replaced nearly all of the hoses including the one under the SC but did not change the coolant tank one!
I recently replaced my tank because I thought that was the problem however I still had the problem with the new tank. It turned out that the connecting hose was slightly "enlarged" due to age at the nipple connection.
A new hose cured the issue.
Soon after purchasing my car I replaced nearly all of the hoses including the one under the SC but did not change the coolant tank one!
The following users liked this post:
XJPurr (06-28-2017)
#30
06-26-2017, 07:14 AM
Veteran Member
Jag service center has fixed difficult problems and after computer reflash engine runs better than new. However I think they don't always tell me the truth.
Been getting low coolant alerts and having to add small amounts to the reservoir, and then found a very small leak at the reservoir upper hose nipple. Don't know what the connection is but suspect this is why fans run sometimes after engine shut down, and that condition is not normal as service advisor repeatedly told me.
It looks like changing the coolant reservoir is within my ability, but I won't have a place to work on the car for a few months so will have to live with the fans running for awhile.
After using a code reader I feel every family should have one and regularly check all their vehicles. My Jag showed a U0426 code (immobilizer data invalid?). That code is probably not related to the reservoir leak and is likely an early alert for my next expensive trip to the factory service center.
Been getting low coolant alerts and having to add small amounts to the reservoir, and then found a very small leak at the reservoir upper hose nipple. Don't know what the connection is but suspect this is why fans run sometimes after engine shut down, and that condition is not normal as service advisor repeatedly told me.
It looks like changing the coolant reservoir is within my ability, but I won't have a place to work on the car for a few months so will have to live with the fans running for awhile.
After using a code reader I feel every family should have one and regularly check all their vehicles. My Jag showed a U0426 code (immobilizer data invalid?). That code is probably not related to the reservoir leak and is likely an early alert for my next expensive trip to the factory service center.
FYI, this fan run is triggered by the fuel rail temp sensor, not the coolant sensor. I was able to trick the PCM into thinking the rail was cooler by putting in a fixed resistor (just to provide my theory).
The following users liked this post:
XJPurr (06-28-2017)
#31
06-28-2017, 01:26 PM
Ah I didn't think of the hose, will have to check that before ordering a new tank.
In the old days we could just cut the end off a hose and it would seal good and last a long time. I'm sure Jag engineers didn't leave enough slack for that, I'll probably have to pull the engine out to get to the other end of that hose for replacing it.
#32
06-28-2017, 01:29 PM
If you had the PCM reflashed that is why your fan is now running after shutdown. FYI, this fan run is triggered by the fuel rail temp sensor, not the coolant sensor. I was able to trick the PCM into thinking the rail was cooler by putting in a fixed resistor (just to provide my theory).
I'll keep that in mind and we'll see after the reservoir leak is fixed.
Is your car liquid silver? I saw one of those brand new in a Jag dealership for sale many years ago, it was beautiful.
#33
07-09-2017, 04:36 PM
Member
#34
07-09-2017, 07:11 PM
Veteran Member
#35
07-09-2017, 09:19 PM
Member
#36
07-10-2017, 06:19 AM
Veteran Member
#37
07-10-2017, 08:33 AM
Member
I did have to move the reservoir around a little while replacing the water pump. I will check the connections tonight. I suspected an air bubble or something because the temp gauge would show the normal warm-up to the mid-point and after a couple of minutes would shoot up to the maximum reading.
#39
10-06-2023, 07:57 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2023
Location: bournemouth
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A recent issue has started to develop with my 04 XJ8, for which I'm looking for possible causes. I've had the car since new, and it has had few issues to date. I'm at around ~65k miles.
Six times now while I have been driving along rural highways, I've had a "Restricted Performance" message pop up, the Yellow CEL comes on, and within the next 10-15 seconds, the temp gauge starts rising rather quickly towards max. In all situations, I've pulled off and shut off the car as the gauge approached the max, which is within about 30 seconds of the Restricted Performance message first appearing. I have waited about 5-10 seconds to restart the car, and on the first 4 occasions, the temp gauge shows at half way. On the last two occasions, the gauge immediately showed max with the Red light lit, so I shut down again and restarted right away and then the gauge showed half way. After all six occurrences, all seems normal, the temp gauge stays at the midway point, the restricted performance message is gone, but the CEL light remains lit. The first time this occurred, the CEL light went away after another couple days of short drives, and it was almost two months before the problem reappeared. The last 4 occurrences have been on successive trips, so it might be too soon for the light to reset on its own. I checked the coolant level, and it appears fine, and I have not had any coolant low messages.
The only other symptoms that might be related is that I notice when driving at highway speeds or on colder day recently, the temp gauge seems to come to settle at about the 5/16th point. Normally, once the car is warmed up, the computer managed gauge has always stuck at midway or just a smidge below halfway. Now it the gauge will only do so when idling at light, when driving around at slower speeds on warmer days, or for awhile after restarting the car after one of the 6 occurrences described above.
The battery is getting on in age, and certainly getting to a point where I should probably just replace it, but given these issues have generally occurred after driving the car for a bit, I'm not sure I see the connection to the battery in this case.
So, my questions are:
The closest dealership is 60 miles away, so not overly handy to get to.
Thanks for any suggestions in advance.
Six times now while I have been driving along rural highways, I've had a "Restricted Performance" message pop up, the Yellow CEL comes on, and within the next 10-15 seconds, the temp gauge starts rising rather quickly towards max. In all situations, I've pulled off and shut off the car as the gauge approached the max, which is within about 30 seconds of the Restricted Performance message first appearing. I have waited about 5-10 seconds to restart the car, and on the first 4 occasions, the temp gauge shows at half way. On the last two occasions, the gauge immediately showed max with the Red light lit, so I shut down again and restarted right away and then the gauge showed half way. After all six occurrences, all seems normal, the temp gauge stays at the midway point, the restricted performance message is gone, but the CEL light remains lit. The first time this occurred, the CEL light went away after another couple days of short drives, and it was almost two months before the problem reappeared. The last 4 occurrences have been on successive trips, so it might be too soon for the light to reset on its own. I checked the coolant level, and it appears fine, and I have not had any coolant low messages.
The only other symptoms that might be related is that I notice when driving at highway speeds or on colder day recently, the temp gauge seems to come to settle at about the 5/16th point. Normally, once the car is warmed up, the computer managed gauge has always stuck at midway or just a smidge below halfway. Now it the gauge will only do so when idling at light, when driving around at slower speeds on warmer days, or for awhile after restarting the car after one of the 6 occurrences described above.
The battery is getting on in age, and certainly getting to a point where I should probably just replace it, but given these issues have generally occurred after driving the car for a bit, I'm not sure I see the connection to the battery in this case.
So, my questions are:
- Is it possible to get a "Restricted Performance" message if the engine management computer thinks the coolant isn't warm enough?
- Any clues what the root cause could be? Malfunctioning temp sensor; something wrong in the cooling system; Electrical issue?
The closest dealership is 60 miles away, so not overly handy to get to.
Thanks for any suggestions in advance.
#40
10-10-2023, 01:29 PM
